竇(dou)(dou)圌(chui)(chui)(chui)(chui)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)最早叫做“猿門山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)”,因在南北朝(chao)以前,山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)猿猴較(jiao)多,加之兩山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)形(xing)(xing)如門,故(gu)稱“猿門山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)”。南北朝(chao)蕭梁時(shi)期(qi),山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)就有(you)(you)(you)和尚建立了寺廟,猿猴被趕走,當地老百姓見山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)體由豆(dou)子(zi)(zi)大(da)的石(shi)子(zi)(zi)構成(cheng)(cheng),山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)形(xing)(xing)如圓形(xing)(xing)糧屯為(wei)“圌(chui)(chui)(chui)(chui)”,在這一時(shi)期(qi)稱為(wei)“豆(dou)圌(chui)(chui)(chui)(chui)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)”。唐朝(chao)時(shi)期(qi),彰明縣(今江油彰明鎮)有(you)(you)(you)個叫竇(dou)(dou)子(zi)(zi)明的縣主簿,覺得圌(chui)(chui)(chui)(chui)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)清幽(you)奇險(xian),好似人間(jian)仙(xian)境(jing),便棄(qi)官隱居于此(ci),在這里開山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)辟路,建筑廟宇(yu),修仙(xian)煉(lian)道,使圌(chui)(chui)(chui)(chui)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)殿宇(yu)成(cheng)(cheng)群,樓閣(ge)聯翩。而后竇(dou)(dou)子(zi)(zi)明修煉(lian)成(cheng)(cheng)仙(xian),騎鶴(he)白(bai)晝飛升。于是“有(you)(you)(you)仙(xian)則(ze)名”,后人便將豆(dou)圌(chui)(chui)(chui)(chui)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)冠以“竇(dou)(dou)”姓,名“竇(dou)(dou)圌(chui)(chui)(chui)(chui)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)”,李白(bai)在訪道時(shi),曾題詩“題竇(dou)(dou)圌(chui)(chui)(chui)(chui)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)”:“樵夫與耕者,出入畫屏中。”
竇(dou)圌山(shan)(shan)海拔高度僅1140米,但由(you)于它(ta)地(di)處(chu)龍門山(shan)(shan)脈及(ji)四(si)川盆地(di)的結合部,山(shan)(shan)勢從成都平(ping)原(yuan)(yuan)往(wang)北行,經過德陽、綿陽的淺(qian)丘、低山(shan)(shan)地(di)帶,就進入了(le)四(si)川省第二大平(ping)原(yuan)(yuan)江(jiang)彰(zhang)平(ping)原(yuan)(yuan)(俗稱(cheng)中壩),在江(jiang)彰(zhang)平(ping)原(yuan)(yuan)的邊(bian)緣騰空而起,直聳云霄,山(shan)(shan)雖不高,卻有(you)險(xian)峻、奇特之勝。不只(zhi)如此(ci),竇(dou)圌山(shan)(shan)還以李白的詩、于右任題字、宋代飛天藏(zang)、鐵索飛渡和高山(shan)(shan)滑(hua)翔“五絕”聞名于世。除此(ci)之外(wai),團(tuan)嶺(ling)鐵索飛渡堪(kan)稱(cheng)神州一絕,高空滑(hua)翔驚險(xian)刺激,竇(dou)圌山(shan)(shan)的中國(guo)歷(li)代皇帝長廊223尊圓(yuan)雕石(shi)刻居全國(guo)之最。
從竇圌山牌坊開始,是一條通往山頂的步行石梯——通天道。通天道長513米,806級石梯,垂直高差63米,俊俏瀟灑,直指云端。陡坡中間,有(you)一(yi)單檐(yan)歇(xie)山(shan)式(shi)的天(tian)音亭,據說(shuo)在(zai)這(zhe)里小事休憩,可聞天(tian)籟之(zhi)音。過天音亭,抬(tai)眼望去,兩巨石(shi)矗立如門(men)(men),那就是(shi)(shi)“天門(men)(men)”。這座位于山(shan)腰(yao)的前(qian)寨(zhai)門(men)(men),建(jian)(jian)于清(qing)咸豐十(shi)一(yi)年(nian)(1861年(nian)),是(shi)(shi)江油鄉(xiang)紳(shen)歐(ou)某(mou)為躲避清(qing)軍(jun)和李(li)永(yong)和、藍朝鼎義軍(jun)之間的戰(zhan)爭而建(jian)(jian)。整個寨(zhai)門(men)(men)由條石(shi)砌成,有"一(yi)夫當(dang)關,萬夫莫開(kai)"之險,氣(qi)勢(shi)雄壯。現存寨(zhai)門(men)(men)高2.45 米(mi),寬2米(mi),門(men)(men)額橫書"福地仙(xian)關",兩邊對聯日:“地籍云巖成保障(zhang),天生(sheng)石(shi)壁(bi)隔烽煙。”
轉過“云巖剖石”,便來到了一處寬闊的平臺,這里是“百味皇林”。百味皇林向南的松林中,有“中國歷代皇帝(di)廊”,塑有(you)223尊帝(di)王(wang)塑像(xiang),從秦(qin)始皇到清朝末代(dai)皇帝(di)宣統,對每位帝(di)王(wang)的生卒政績,興衰成(cheng)敗,悉付簡介,不僅是中(zhong)國封(feng)建王(wang)朝輝(hui)煌歷史(shi)的形象(xiang)再(zai)現,也是中(zhong)國當代(dai)石刻藝術的可(ke)貴(gui)探索。信(xin)步廊中(zhong),數千年的歷史(shi)風云撲面而來。
百味皇林北面,有兩組塑像,一組是李白訪道。詩仙李白年少時讀書匡山,并往來旁郡,近游龍州、劍州、梓州,遠游益州、峨眉、渝州等地,尋仙訪道學劍。他曾先后從趙蕤(ruí,趙蕤和李白當時是唐代的“蜀中二杰”)習帝王學和縱橫之學,向東巖子討教神仙術和劍術,留有《訪戴天山道士不遇》及“五岳尋仙不辭遠,一生好入名山游”的詩句。李白一生好道即始于此時,一則因為唐代以道教為國教,蜀中道風猶盛;二則由于李白性愛山水佳勝之地,故常借訪道求仙之名而行問道名山之實,“詩仙”乃“游仙”也。另一組(zu)是景(jing)知果(guo)(guo)(guo)馴獸塑像。景(jing)知果(guo)(guo)(guo),俗名(ming)、籍(ji)貫不(bu)詳,生長于五代以前。據唐代道教思(si)想(xiang)家(jia)杜光(guang)庭《錄異(yi)記》記載(zai):“知果(guo)(guo)(guo)居圌山,與虎(hu)豹同處(chu),馴如家(jia)犬。鴉數(shu)集(ji)其(qi)肩臂上嗚戲(xi)為常。又(you)有(you)巨蛇時出,知果(guo)(guo)(guo)叱而遣之(zhi),蜿蜒而去(qu)(qu)。虎(hu)三(san)頭于(yu)庭中,月夜交搏踏(ta)騰(teng)既甚,知果怒持白梃擊之(zhi),遂散去(qu)(qu)。其狎異(yi)類也如此,一(yi)旦失所之(zhi)。”
兩(liang)組塑像之北,有(you)一座白皮松風亭。白皮松,或稱(cheng)“白松”,也稱(cheng)得(de)上竇圌山一絕,主要生長在山腰石縫(feng)間,無土、無水(shui)、無肥,自然造化(hua),花紋美麗,可供建(jian)筑、文具、家具、醫藥之用,是名貴的觀賞樹(shu)。據(ju)說,這(zhe)棵白皮松植(zhi)于(yu)南宋(song),歷經700多年仍(reng)然生氣勃勃,龍鐘挺(ting)拔,可稱(cheng)竇圌山“活化(hua)石”,古人亦(yi)尊稱(cheng)木土之神。古人們在朝山進香時(shi),將紅布繩拴在此樹(shu)上,意(yi)為(wei)可祛除(chu)百(bai)病,延年益(yi)壽。
白皮松風亭往前,是全國重點文物保護單位——云巖寺。云巖寺前東側懸崖上(shang),有(you)座(zuo)為紀念竇(dou)(dou)圌(chui)山(shan)的開(kai)山(shan)鼻(bi)祖竇(dou)(dou)子明(ming)在此(ci)修煉(lian)(lian)飛(fei)(fei)升成(cheng)仙(xian)的飛(fei)(fei)仙(xian)亭(ting),該亭(ting)創建于(yu)(yu)清道光二十(shi)四年(nian)(nian)(1844年(nian)(nian)),現亭(ting)為 1985年(nian)(nian)重建,重檐歇山(shan)仿清式建筑。竇(dou)(dou)子明(ming)本是唐代彰(zhang)明(ming)縣主簿,龍朔元(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(公元(yuan)661年(nian)(nian))左右,竇(dou)(dou)子明(ming)棄官隱居于(yu)(yu)圌(chui)山(shan)之上(shang),終(zhong)日(ri)頤(yi)神養性,苦行悟道,日(ri)日(ri)煉(lian)(lian)丹(dan),逾三年(nian)(nian),終(zhong)成(cheng)正果,于(yu)(yu)“剖石(shi)(shi)(shi)”頂得道飛(fei)(fei)天,從此(ci)圌(chui)山(shan)便(bian)有(you)了竇(dou)(dou)姓。飛(fei)(fei)仙(xian)亭(ting)下方,就是“ 云巖”和“剖石(shi)(shi)(shi)”四字摩巖石(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke)處。據(ju)說(shuo)李(li)白(bai)也曾(ceng)十(shi)分仰慕(mu)竇(dou)(dou)子明(ming)的行跡,曾(ceng)寫詩贊美(mei)說(shuo)“愿隨(sui)子明(ming)去,煉(lian)(lian)火燒金丹(dan)”。
云(yun)(yun)巖(yan)寺(si)(si)(si)主要建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)均沿中(zhong)軸線作縱深布置,自外(wai)而內,依(yi)次為(wei)山門(men)、文武殿、護(hu)法(fa)殿、大雄殿、宸(chen)(chen)經(jing)(jing)樓(lou)及東(dong)西配(pei)殿、客廳、禪堂等,形成(cheng)了殿宇重疊、院落(luo)互變、高低錯落(luo)、主次分明(ming)的(de)風格。由宸(chen)(chen)經(jing)(jing)樓(lou)附近側門(men)處,經(jing)(jing)南岳殿上(shang)峰頂,有東(dong)岳殿、竇(dou)真殿、魯班殿等建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)共同組成(cheng)蔚為(wei)大觀的(de)云(yun)(yun)巖(yan)寺(si)(si)(si)古建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群。象云(yun)(yun)巖(yan)寺(si)(si)(si)這樣(yang)建(jian)(jian)于山脊上(shang),又是中(zhong)軸線對稱布局(ju)的(de)古寺(si)(si)(si)建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群,在全(quan)國(guo)也是罕(han)見的(de)。1988年(nian)公布為(wei)全(quan)國(guo)重點(dian)文物保護(hu)單位(wei)。
竇圌山的“五絕”之一飛天藏就位于大雄殿前西側,殿分二間,上下兩層檐下施玉作斗拱,上檐下有清光緒年匾一道(dao),上書“萬(wan)善俱成”四字,下檐(yan)有(you)匾一道(dao),上書“飛天藏”。飛天藏又名星辰(chen)車(che),南宋淳熙八年(1180年)建,元代至(zhi)正時重修,“明季兵火,惟此獨存”。是中(zhong)國現(xian)存的宋代道(dao)教木制轉(zhuan)輪經藏。傳說推動星辰(chen)車(che),可(ke)祛病(bing)強身(shen),延(yan)年益壽。可(ke)惜因為殿宇正在(zai)翻(fan)修,未(wei)見到這件寶(bao)貝。
竇圌山(shan)山(shan)頂(ding)有(you)(you)三(san)座石峰(feng)(feng)(feng)拔地而起,好似鼎足(zu)(zu)朝天,高約70余米(mi),相(xiang)距約30米(mi),僅一(yi)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)有(you)(you)險路可(ke)上(shang),其它兩峰(feng)(feng)(feng)四面峭(qiao)壁似刀砍斧劈,無路可(ke)通。三(san)座石峰(feng)(feng)(feng)之間只(zhi)有(you)(you)鐵(tie)(tie)索橋相(xiang)連,構造極為(wei)簡(jian)單,僅用(yong)兩根鐵(tie)(tie)鏈(lian)固定于峰(feng)(feng)(feng)頂(ding)的鐵(tie)(tie)樁上(shang),一(yi)根粗而扁平,用(yong)以踩(cai)足(zu)(zu),寬不足(zu)(zu)20公(gong)分;另一(yi)根較細,可(ke)做扶手。鐵(tie)(tie)索橋懸(xuan)于百(bai)丈深谷(gu)之上(shang),山(shan)風勁吹,左右搖晃,嘩嘩作響,更添驚險。即使能在鋼絲上(shang)作種(zhong)種(zhong)特技表(biao)演的雜技演員(yuan)到此也要(yao)望而生畏,故橋頭有(you)(you)題詞:“飛仙可(ke)渡”。
竇(dou)圌仙山(shan)鐘造化之神(shen)秀(xiu),集天地之靈氣,孕育(yu)古(gu)木森森,異藤(teng)奇樹(shu),目不暇接。猶以一(yi)株長(chang)于云巖寺山(shan)門前,已有(you)千(qian)余(yu)年樹(shu)齡(ling)的(de)黃蓮(lian)古(gu)樹(shu)最為奇絕,形似涅(nie)槃的(de)佛(fo)祖,被歷代高僧(seng)奉為鎮山(shan)之樹(shu),不為外屆所知(zhi)。也許(xu),因為受了千(qian)年香火的(de)熏陶,黃蓮(lian)也有(you)了佛(fo)性。2001年8月,在(zai)一(yi)個雷(lei)雨之夜(ye),奇樹(shu)感受大(da)自(zi)然的(de)召喚回(hui)到大(da)地母親的(de)懷抱,古(gu)樹(shu)形如睡佛(fo),經能工(gong)巧匠(jiang)精心(xin)雕琢,臥佛(fo)渾然天成,真是樹(shu)之神(shen),民之福也。
從成都(dou)出發到江油太白紀念(nian)館(guan)、竇團山(shan),在(zai)成都(dou)昭覺(jue)寺汽車(che)總站,每(mei)日8:00-19:00每(mei)15分(fen)鐘一班,豪華大(da)巴運載,票價34元,2.5小時到達。
沿成綿高速(su)公路(lu)再轉綿廣(guang)高速(su)至綿陽北出口,下(xia)高速(su)后到江油,根(gen)據(ju)指示牌前(qian)往(wang)景區(qu),竇圌山距(ju)江油市北25公里,距(ju)成都170余公里,全程過路(lu)費55元(yuan)。