廣(guang)元鶴鳴山位于(yu)四川省廣(guang)元市劍閣縣普安鎮(劍閣老(lao)縣城(cheng))東(dong)一公里(li)(li)處。相傳道教(jiao)始祖張道陵學道于(yu)此(ci)(ci)。相傳古(gu)代(dai)常有飛(fei)鶴棲鳴于(yu)此(ci)(ci),道教(jiao)創(chuang)始人張陵在(zai)此(ci)(ci)跨(kua)鶴仙去而得名(ming)。近(jin)年來有學者(zhe)認為(wei)(wei)這(zhe)里(li)(li)是張陵開創(chuang)五斗(dou)米教(jiao)的(de)發(fa)祥地,是道教(jiao)勝地中的(de)魁首,被(bei)稱為(wei)(wei)“道國仙都(dou)”,是中國四大道教(jiao)名(ming)山之一,歷代(dai)來此(ci)(ci)觀光的(de)詩(shi)人墨客都(dou)喜在(zai)此(ci)(ci)題詩(shi)嵌碑、刻石造像、言志抒情。
廣元(yuan)鶴鳴山(shan)(shan)山(shan)(shan)勢(shi)陡峻,風景秀麗,從山(shan)(shan)麓起有石級數千,拾級而上(shang)直達山(shan)(shan)巔。清代建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑的文(wen)峰塔矗(chu)立其頂,山(shan)(shan)脊(ji)蒼松掩映,山(shan)(shan)間(jian)翠柏蔥蘢。以初唐重建(jian)(jian)(jian)的“重陽亭”為中心,把眾多的文(wen)物(wu)古跡(ji)連成(cheng)一線,歷來為“登高覽勝(sheng)”之地。現山(shan)(shan)上(shang)開辟(pi)了鶴鳴山(shan)(shan)公園,復(fu)建(jian)(jian)(jian)了古代建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑風格和現代藝術相(xiang)結(jie)合的亭、臺、樓、閣(ge)。
鶴鳴(ming)山(shan)山(shan)頂北端的(de)文峰(feng)白塔(ta),高21.7 米,六(liu)(liu)層(ceng)八面。第一層(ceng)外(wai)圍塔(ta)柱上雕(diao)(diao)有蟠(pan)龍(long)圖(tu)案(an),塔(ta)心(xin)中央有一塊(kuai)青(qing)石,石上雕(diao)(diao)有太極八卦(gua)圖(tu)案(an),是川北與道教(jiao)有關(guan)的(de)磚石混建塔(ta)。山(shan)上有道教(jiao)造(zao)像(xiang)數十尊,一尊露天(tian),余皆(jie)刻于龕(kan)內。露天(tian)一尊為圓(yuan)雕(diao)(diao)立體像(xiang),頭上有髻,面頤豐(feng)滿(man),形象古樸。造(zao)像(xiang)以高2米的(de)長生保命(ming)天(tian)尊像(xiang)為代(dai)表(biao)作(zuo),足(zu)穿道靴,身(shen)著寬(kuan)領大袖道袍(pao),神態肅穆(mu),為唐大中十一年(nian)(857年(nian))造(zao)。另有浮雕(diao)(diao)甲胄(zhou)武士像(xiang)多組,每組五、六(liu)(liu)身(shen),兩眼圓(yuan)睜,姿態雄偉。
山(shan)頂處有唐、宋(song)、元、明(ming)、清歷代石(shi)刻(ke)(ke)數10處,有道教(jiao)造像(xiang)石(shi)刻(ke)(ke)、《劍州重陽亭銘(ming)并序》碑和《大唐中興頌》石(shi)刻(ke)(ke),被公(gong)認為鶴鳴山(shan)石(shi)刻(ke)(ke)“三絕” 。唐代三絕,就是唐人留下的古代文化佳品。
一絕:李(li)商隱(yin)(yin)(yin)撰(zhuan)《劍州重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)銘》碑(bei)。重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting),始建于(yu)(yu)唐大中(zhong)八年(公元854年)九月(yue),由劍州刺史(shi)蔣(jiang)郁監造。因為(wei)蔣(jiang)郁意在借重(zhong)(zhong)李(li)商隱(yin)(yin)(yin)的名(ming)望,使自(zi)己的政績(ji)播美于(yu)(yu)當(dang)時,留名(ming)于(yu)(yu)后世(shi),所(suo)以(yi),邀請在梓州為(wei)官的李(li)商隱(yin)(yin)(yin)為(wei)重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)作銘文。千余年來,碑(bei)為(wei)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)護,亭(ting)(ting)(ting)以(yi)碑(bei)聞。亭(ting)(ting)(ting)雖曾有(you)(you)壞毀(hui),而(er)唐碑(bei)卻(que)保存(cun)至今。據(ju)重(zhong)(zhong)修重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)碑(bei)記(ji):九月(yue)建于(yu)(yu)東山(shan)之(zhi)上,坐南朝(chao)北,為(wei)重(zhong)(zhong)九登高(gao)觀景之(zhi)所(suo),故以(yi)“重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)”為(wei)名(ming)。北宋治平年亭(ting)(ting)(ting)圮(pi)碑(bei)傾,歷(li)經宋、明(ming)清、民國初(chu),或修或塌,時有(you)(you)興替。現存(cun)重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)系(xi)仿(fang)唐建筑風格,占地面積18.5平方米(mi),高(gao)4.4米(mi),灰色(se)卷脊(ji)屋頂(ding)。宋刻“古重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)”四(si)字,刻在亭(ting)(ting)(ting)后正(zheng)中(zhong)壁上,字跡精刻鐫(juan)深,蒼勁有(you)(you)力。李(li)商隱(yin)(yin)(yin)所(suo)撰(zhuan)的《劍州重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)銘》唐碑(bei),現存(cun)于(yu)(yu)重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)側(ce)的造像(xiang)龕內,高(gao)1.88米(mi),寬0.85米(mi),小篆書陰刻文,是研究唐代文化的珍貴文物。
二絕:《大唐(tang)(tang)中(zhong)(zhong)興頌(song)》摩(mo)崖石刻。《大唐(tang)(tang)中(zhong)(zhong)興頌(song)》及序(xu)文(wen),是(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)唐(tang)(tang)詩人元(yuan)結(jie)于上(shang)元(yuan)二年(公(gong)元(yuan)761年)秋(qiu)八(ba)月(yue)撰寫的(de)(de)。名(ming)為(wei)頌(song)揚肅宗(zong)李亨平定“安史之(zhi)亂”開(kai)創唐(tang)(tang)代中(zhong)(zhong)興局(ju)面的(de)(de)偉業,實則是(shi)文(wen)辭委婉,隱含(han)諷(feng)刺,從一個(ge)側面揭(jie)露了唐(tang)(tang)王朝(chao)上(shang)層統(tong)(tong)治(zhi)集團的(de)(de)貪婪腐朽和爭(zheng)權奪利(li)的(de)(de)斗(dou)爭(zheng),在一定程(cheng)序(xu)上(shang)表現了作(zuo)者痛恨藩鎮(zhen)割據,渴望(wang)國家(jia)統(tong)(tong)一的(de)(de)政治(zhi)態度。碑文(wen)是(shi)我國書(shu)法史上(shang)名(ming)家(jia)顏真(zhen)卿書(shu)寫的(de)(de)。宋人文(wen)潛贊(zan)顏真(zhen)卿書(shu)法云:“水(shui)部胸中(zhong)(zhong)星斗(dou)文(wen),大師(shi)筆下龍(long)蛇字(zi)。”千百年來(lai),被(bei)歷代文(wen)人書(shu)法家(jia)敬(jing)仰。摩(mo)崖石刻通高(gao)的(de)(de)313厘(li)(li)米(mi),寬384厘(li)(li)米(mi),自左至(zhi)(zhi)右豎行陰刻20行,共229字(zi),通體端莊,氣勢磅礴。碑文(wen)是(shi)大歷七(qi)年(公(gong)元(yuan)772年)刻在湖(hu)南(nan)祁(qi)陽浯(wu)溪石崖上(shang),又在南(nan)宋紹熙年間(1195年)由隆慶(qing)府(今劍(jian)閣縣)通判吳旰(gan)翻刻于此。至(zhi)(zhi)今碑刻完整(zheng),顏字(zi)風格猶存。
三絕:摩(mo)崖(ya)(ya)道(dao)教造(zao)(zao)像。重陽亭右(you)側石崖(ya)(ya)上的(de)(de)唐代道(dao)教造(zao)(zao)像,是(shi)我國較大較好(hao)的(de)(de)道(dao)教摩(mo)崖(ya)(ya)造(zao)(zao)像,世界美術(shu)史(shi)、中(zhong)(zhong)國美術(shu)史(shi)均將它(ta)(ta)們列入章目介紹(shao)。現(xian)存的(de)(de)5龕造(zao)(zao)像,完整者2龕,均為長生保(bao)命(ming)天(tian)尊造(zao)(zao)像。“天(tian)尊”是(shi)道(dao)教尊貴的(de)(de)天(tian)神之(zhi)稱。其(qi)中(zhong)(zhong)一尊造(zao)(zao)像高(gao)1.8米,戴蓮花冠,著納托,持法器(qi)站蓮臺上肌(ji)膚(fu)豐腴,莊重面(mian)善,有濃厚(hou)的(de)(de)地方特(te)色。雕刻(ke)(ke)家以概括而又簡練(lian)的(de)(de)線(xian)條刻(ke)(ke)就(jiu)身形衣(yi)飾,形象逼真,以工整精巧的(de)(de)刀法刻(ke)(ke)就(jiu)頭(tou)、手、眉、眼,體(ti)現(xian)了“壽比南山”、“長生不老(lao)”的(de)(de)意境與教義。龕兩邊(bian)各(ge)(ge)有淺浮雕兩組(zu),為文臣(chen)、武(wu)士(shi)、護法神、妖(yao)(yao)魔、供養人等(deng)(deng)。不論是(shi)手持象笏者、披甲戴盔者、腰束(shu)戰裙(qun)者、足踏妖(yao)(yao)魔者,都(dou)各(ge)(ge)執劍、叉(cha)、索鏈、寶瓶、法器(qi),怒目睹眼,形態各(ge)(ge)異,咄咄逼人。其(qi)中(zhong)(zhong)二尊是(shi)位于登(deng)豐閣內右(you)龕的(de)(de)造(zao)(zao)像。像高(gao)192厘米,完整無損,頸脖細(xi)長,接(jie)近“立七、坐五、盤三、臥八(ba)”的(de)(de)傳(chuan)統人體(ti)造(zao)(zao)型藝(yi)術(shu)的(de)(de)頭(tou)身比例。據(ju)石刻(ke)(ke)題記考察,它(ta)(ta)是(shi)唐武(wu)宗李炎(yan)會昌五年(公(gong)元845年)的(de)(de)藝(yi)術(shu)品。龕臺下還刻(ke)(ke)有雄獅、麒麟等(deng)(deng)祥瑞物(wu)。唐代道(dao)教造(zao)(zao)像石窟(ku)能保(bao)留(liu)至(zhi)今,為難得(de)的(de)(de)文物(wu)珍品,1986年,這里(li)的(de)(de)道(dao)教造(zao)(zao)像被選入《中(zhong)(zhong)國美術(shu)全集(ji)?四川石窟(ku)雕塑》卷,日(ri)本學者亦(yi)將這些(xie)造(zao)(zao)像編入《世界美術(shu)全集(ji)》里(li),可見這些(xie)造(zao)(zao)像的(de)(de)文物(wu)藝(yi)術(shu)價值之(zhi)高(gao)。
此(ci)外(wai),鶴(he)鳴山還有(you)“一郡奇觀”題(ti)刻《摩崖碑(bei)亭記(ji)》、明正德十(shi)四(si)的刻的《劍州再建重陽亭記(ji)》、正德卯(mao)寅摩刻的《重陽亭詩(shi)有(you)跋(ba)》、清同治十(shi)年鐫刻的《重修(xiu)摩崖亭碑(bei)記(ji)》、光緒二十(shi)六年鐫刻的《重修(xiu)重陽亭碑(bei)》等石(shi)刻。這些石(shi)刻藝術珍品是古代勞動人民(min)智慧的結晶(jing)。1962年在(zai)鶴(he)鳴山墾荒(huang)造林出土(tu)的宋(song)代道(dao)教祭(ji)祀用(yong)品有(you)銅壺、銅瓶、銅醮斗等;還有(you)宋(song)代龍(long)泉窟產的精品“蓮瓣紋豆(dou)青瓷碗”,經專家鑒定(ding)為國家一級文物。
張陵創立(li)五斗米道
張陵(34—156),中國東漢五斗米道創立者。后改名張道陵,字輔漢,敬為張天師。沛國豐邑(今江蘇豐縣)人(ren)。少時喜讀河(he)洛圖諱、天(tian)文地(di)理之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)書(shu)。曾入太(tai)學(xue),通(tong)達(da)五(wu)經(jing)(jing),又(you)好黃老(lao)(lao)(lao)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)學(xue),舉薦“賢良方正(zheng)直言極諫科(ke)”。漢(han)明(ming)帝時曾任巴郡(jun)江州(今四(si)川(chuan)重慶)令,后(hou)隱居(ju)北邙山(shan)(shan)(shan)(今河(he)南洛陽北),修煉長(chang)生之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)。朝廷(ting)久(jiu)征不就(jiu)。東(dong)漢(han)順帝時,修道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)于(yu)鵠鳴(ming)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(今四(si)川(chuan)大邑縣境內(nei)),創(chuang)立(li)(li)五(wu)斗米道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)。教(jiao)門中尊老(lao)(lao)(lao)子(zi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)教(jiao)主,以(yi)《老(lao)(lao)(lao)子(zi)五(wu)千言》為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)經(jing)(jing)典,自稱太(tai)上老(lao)(lao)(lao)君,授為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)“三天(tian)法(fa)師(shi)正(zheng)一(yi)真人(ren)”。制作道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)書(shu)24篇,建(jian)立(li)(li)24治(zhi)區,各治(zhi)立(li)(li)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)官祭酒(jiu),以(yi)統治(zhi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)民。道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)民有犯小過者以(yi)悔過自新為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)奉(feng)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)主旨,并用符水咒法(fa)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)民治(zhi)病。傳有弟(di)子(zi)王(wang)長(chang)、趙升等。子(zi)孫世襲天(tian)師(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)號,歷代帝君皆(jie)加有封號。東(dong)漢(han)順帝(126—144年(nian))時,張(zhang)陵(ling)聞蜀地(di)多名(ming)(ming)山(shan)(shan)(shan),民風淳厚,易(yi)于(yu)教(jiao)化(hua),于(yu)是(shi)攜(xie)弟(di)子(zi)入蜀,居(ju)住在鶴鳴(ming)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(又(you)名(ming)(ming)鵠山(shan)(shan)(shan))修道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)。精思煉志(zhi)數年(nian),著作道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)書(shu)二(er)(er)(er)十四(si)篇。感太(tai)上親降,授以(yi)《三天(tian)正(zheng)法(fa)》、《正(zheng)一(yi)科(ke)術要道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)法(fa)》、《正(zheng)一(yi)盟(meng)威(wei)妙(miao)經(jing)(jing)》、《三業六通(tong)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)訣》,命為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)天(tian)師(shi)。于(yu)是(shi),張(zhang)陵(ling)以(yi)鶴鳴(ming)山(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)中心(xin)設(she)二(er)(er)(er)十四(si)治(zhi),是(shi)正(zheng)一(yi)盟(meng)威(wei)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)的基(ji)層組織與(yu)活動中心(xin)。初設(she)二(er)(er)(er)十四(si)治(zhi),主要集(ji)中在蜀漢(han)地(di)區,后(hou)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)與(yu)二(er)(er)(er)十八(ba)宿相配,乃增至(zhi)二(er)(er)(er)十八(ba)治(zhi),其中陽平治(zhi)是(shi)正(zheng)一(yi)盟(meng)威(wei)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)的總(zong)部。傳太(tai)上正(zheng)一(yi)盟(meng)威(wei)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao),奉(feng)老(lao)(lao)(lao)子(zi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)教(jiao)祖,尊稱太(tai)上老(lao)(lao)(lao)君,以(yi)《老(lao)(lao)(lao)子(zi)五(wu)千文》為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)主要經(jing)(jing)典,創(chuang)立(li)(li)了道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)教(jiao)。
張陵初創(chuang)的(de)正(zheng)一盟威道(dao)(dao),其主(zhu)要經典有《老子五(wu)(wu)千(qian)文》、《太平洞極經》等。其主(zhu)要宗教活動是:誦習五(wu)(wu)千(qian)文;有罪首過;符水(shui)治(zhi)病;用(yong)章表與鬼神為誓(shi)約。其組織制度主(zhu)要是:各治(zhi)置祭酒,以領道(dao)(dao)民(min)。并規定按時“付天(tian)倉”及“三會(hui)”。付天(tian)倉,即奉道(dao)(dao)者于(yu)十(shi)月(yue)一日(ri)向(xiang)天(tian)師、祭酒交納信米五(wu)(wu)斗;三會(hui),即奉道(dao)(dao)者一年三次(正(zheng)月(yue)七(qi)日(ri)、七(qi)月(yue)七(qi)日(ri)、十(shi)月(yue)五(wu)(wu)日(ri))朝(chao)會(hui)天(tian)師治(zhi)。