廣元鶴(he)鳴山位(wei)于四(si)川省廣元市劍(jian)(jian)閣(ge)(ge)縣(xian)普安鎮(劍(jian)(jian)閣(ge)(ge)老縣(xian)城)東(dong)一公里處。相(xiang)傳道(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)始祖張(zhang)道(dao)陵(ling)學道(dao)于此(ci)(ci)。相(xiang)傳古代(dai)常有飛鶴(he)棲鳴于此(ci)(ci),道(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)創始人張(zhang)陵(ling)在此(ci)(ci)跨鶴(he)仙去(qu)而得名。近年來有學者認為這(zhe)里是張(zhang)陵(ling)開創五(wu)斗米(mi)教(jiao)(jiao)的(de)發(fa)祥地,是道(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)勝地中(zhong)的(de)魁首,被(bei)稱為“道(dao)國仙都(dou)”,是中(zhong)國四(si)大道(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)名山之一,歷代(dai)來此(ci)(ci)觀光的(de)詩人墨(mo)客都(dou)喜在此(ci)(ci)題詩嵌碑、刻(ke)石造像、言志(zhi)抒情。
廣元鶴鳴(ming)山(shan)山(shan)勢陡峻,風景秀麗,從山(shan)麓起(qi)有石級數千,拾(shi)級而上直達山(shan)巔(dian)。清代建筑的(de)文峰塔(ta)矗立(li)其頂,山(shan)脊(ji)蒼(cang)松掩(yan)映,山(shan)間(jian)翠柏蔥蘢。以(yi)初唐重建的(de)“重陽(yang)亭(ting)”為中(zhong)心,把眾多(duo)的(de)文物(wu)古(gu)跡(ji)連成一(yi)線,歷來(lai)為“登(deng)高(gao)覽勝”之地。現(xian)山(shan)上開辟了(le)鶴鳴(ming)山(shan)公園,復(fu)建了(le)古(gu)代建筑風格和現(xian)代藝術相(xiang)結(jie)合的(de)亭(ting)、臺、樓(lou)、閣。
鶴鳴(ming)山山頂北端的文峰白塔,高21.7 米,六(liu)(liu)層八面。第(di)一層外(wai)圍塔柱(zhu)上(shang)(shang)雕(diao)有(you)(you)蟠龍圖(tu)案(an),塔心中(zhong)央(yang)有(you)(you)一塊青石,石上(shang)(shang)雕(diao)有(you)(you)太(tai)極八卦(gua)圖(tu)案(an),是川北與(yu)道(dao)教有(you)(you)關的磚石混建塔。山上(shang)(shang)有(you)(you)道(dao)教造(zao)像數十(shi)尊(zun),一尊(zun)露(lu)天(tian)(tian),余皆刻(ke)于龕內。露(lu)天(tian)(tian)一尊(zun)為(wei)圓(yuan)雕(diao)立體像,頭(tou)上(shang)(shang)有(you)(you)髻,面頤豐滿,形象(xiang)古樸(pu)。造(zao)像以高2米的長生保命天(tian)(tian)尊(zun)像為(wei)代表作,足穿道(dao)靴,身(shen)著寬領大(da)袖道(dao)袍,神態(tai)肅穆,為(wei)唐(tang)大(da)中(zhong)十(shi)一年(857年)造(zao)。另有(you)(you)浮雕(diao)甲胄(zhou)武士像多組(zu),每組(zu)五、六(liu)(liu)身(shen),兩眼圓(yuan)睜,姿態(tai)雄偉。
山頂處有(you)唐、宋、元、明(ming)、清歷代石刻數10處,有(you)道教造(zao)像石刻、《劍州(zhou)重陽亭銘并序(xu)》碑和《大唐中興頌》石刻,被公認(ren)為鶴鳴山石刻“三(san)絕(jue)(jue)” 。唐代三(san)絕(jue)(jue),就是唐人(ren)留下的古代文化佳品。
一絕(jue):李商隱(yin)撰《劍州(zhou)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)銘(ming)》碑(bei)(bei)(bei)。重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting),始建于(yu)唐大中(zhong)八年(公元854年)九月,由劍州(zhou)刺史蔣郁監造。因為(wei)(wei)蔣郁意在借(jie)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)李商隱(yin)的(de)名(ming)(ming)望(wang),使自己的(de)政績播美(mei)于(yu)當時,留名(ming)(ming)于(yu)后(hou)世,所(suo)以,邀請在梓州(zhou)為(wei)(wei)官的(de)李商隱(yin)為(wei)(wei)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)作銘(ming)文。千(qian)余年來,碑(bei)(bei)(bei)為(wei)(wei)亭(ting)(ting)護,亭(ting)(ting)以碑(bei)(bei)(bei)聞。亭(ting)(ting)雖曾有(you)壞毀,而唐碑(bei)(bei)(bei)卻保(bao)存(cun)(cun)(cun)至今。據重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)修重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)碑(bei)(bei)(bei)記:九月建于(yu)東山之上(shang),坐南朝北,為(wei)(wei)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)九登(deng)高觀(guan)景之所(suo),故(gu)以“重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)”為(wei)(wei)名(ming)(ming)。北宋治平年亭(ting)(ting)圮碑(bei)(bei)(bei)傾,歷(li)經宋、明清(qing)、民國初(chu),或(huo)修或(huo)塌,時有(you)興替。現存(cun)(cun)(cun)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)系仿(fang)唐建筑風格(ge),占地面積18.5平方米(mi)(mi),高4.4米(mi)(mi),灰色卷脊屋頂。宋刻(ke)(ke)“古重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)”四字(zi),刻(ke)(ke)在亭(ting)(ting)后(hou)正中(zhong)壁上(shang),字(zi)跡精刻(ke)(ke)鐫深,蒼勁有(you)力。李商隱(yin)所(suo)撰的(de)《劍州(zhou)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)銘(ming)》唐碑(bei)(bei)(bei),現存(cun)(cun)(cun)于(yu)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)亭(ting)(ting)側(ce)的(de)造像龕(kan)內,高1.88米(mi)(mi),寬0.85米(mi)(mi),小篆書陰刻(ke)(ke)文,是研究唐代文化的(de)珍貴文物。
二絕:《大(da)(da)(da)唐(tang)中(zhong)興(xing)頌》摩崖(ya)石刻(ke)。《大(da)(da)(da)唐(tang)中(zhong)興(xing)頌》及序文(wen)(wen)(wen),是(shi)中(zhong)唐(tang)詩人元結于上元二年(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元761年(nian)(nian))秋八月(yue)撰(zhuan)寫的(de)。名為頌揚肅宗李亨(heng)平定(ding)“安史(shi)之(zhi)亂”開(kai)創(chuang)唐(tang)代中(zhong)興(xing)局面(mian)的(de)偉業,實則是(shi)文(wen)(wen)(wen)辭委婉,隱(yin)含諷刺(ci),從一(yi)個(ge)側面(mian)揭露了唐(tang)王朝上層統治集團的(de)貪婪腐(fu)朽和爭(zheng)權奪(duo)利的(de)斗(dou)爭(zheng),在(zai)一(yi)定(ding)程(cheng)序上表(biao)現(xian)了作者痛(tong)恨藩鎮割據,渴望國家統一(yi)的(de)政治態度(du)。碑(bei)文(wen)(wen)(wen)是(shi)我國書(shu)(shu)法史(shi)上名家顏真卿書(shu)(shu)寫的(de)。宋(song)人文(wen)(wen)(wen)潛(qian)贊顏真卿書(shu)(shu)法云:“水部胸(xiong)中(zhong)星斗(dou)文(wen)(wen)(wen),大(da)(da)(da)師筆下龍蛇字。”千百年(nian)(nian)來,被歷代文(wen)(wen)(wen)人書(shu)(shu)法家敬(jing)仰(yang)。摩崖(ya)石刻(ke)通(tong)(tong)高的(de)313厘(li)米,寬(kuan)384厘(li)米,自左至右豎行(xing)陰刻(ke)20行(xing),共229字,通(tong)(tong)體端莊,氣勢(shi)磅礴(bo)。碑(bei)文(wen)(wen)(wen)是(shi)大(da)(da)(da)歷七年(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元772年(nian)(nian))刻(ke)在(zai)湖南(nan)祁陽浯溪(xi)石崖(ya)上,又(you)在(zai)南(nan)宋(song)紹熙年(nian)(nian)間(1195年(nian)(nian))由(you)隆慶(qing)府(今劍閣(ge)縣)通(tong)(tong)判吳旰(gan)翻刻(ke)于此。至今碑(bei)刻(ke)完整,顏字風格猶存(cun)。
三絕:摩(mo)崖道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)。重陽亭右(you)(you)側石(shi)(shi)崖上的(de)唐(tang)代(dai)道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang),是(shi)我國(guo)較大較好的(de)道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)摩(mo)崖造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang),世界美術史、中(zhong)國(guo)美術史均(jun)將它(ta)們列入章(zhang)目介紹。現(xian)存的(de)5龕(kan)(kan)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang),完整者(zhe)(zhe)2龕(kan)(kan),均(jun)為(wei)長生(sheng)保(bao)命天尊(zun)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)。“天尊(zun)”是(shi)道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)尊(zun)貴的(de)天神之稱。其中(zhong)一尊(zun)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)高(gao)1.8米,戴蓮花(hua)冠,著納托,持法(fa)器站蓮臺上肌膚豐腴(yu),莊重面善,有濃厚(hou)的(de)地方特色。雕刻(ke)(ke)家以概(gai)括而(er)又簡練的(de)線條(tiao)刻(ke)(ke)就身形衣飾,形象逼真,以工整精巧的(de)刀(dao)法(fa)刻(ke)(ke)就頭、手(shou)、眉、眼,體現(xian)了(le)“壽比南山(shan)”、“長生(sheng)不老”的(de)意境與教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)義(yi)。龕(kan)(kan)兩(liang)邊各(ge)有淺浮雕兩(liang)組,為(wei)文臣、武士、護法(fa)神、妖(yao)魔、供(gong)養(yang)人(ren)(ren)等。不論是(shi)手(shou)持象笏(hu)者(zhe)(zhe)、披(pi)甲戴盔者(zhe)(zhe)、腰束戰裙者(zhe)(zhe)、足踏妖(yao)魔者(zhe)(zhe),都各(ge)執劍、叉、索鏈、寶(bao)瓶(ping)、法(fa)器,怒目睹眼,形態(tai)各(ge)異,咄咄逼人(ren)(ren)。其中(zhong)二(er)尊(zun)是(shi)位(wei)于登豐閣內右(you)(you)龕(kan)(kan)的(de)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)。像(xiang)(xiang)高(gao)192厘米,完整無損(sun),頸脖(bo)細(xi)長,接近“立(li)七、坐五、盤三、臥(wo)八”的(de)傳(chuan)統人(ren)(ren)體造(zao)型藝術的(de)頭身比例。據(ju)石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)題記考察,它(ta)是(shi)唐(tang)武宗李炎會昌五年(公元845年)的(de)藝術品。龕(kan)(kan)臺下還刻(ke)(ke)有雄(xiong)獅、麒麟等祥瑞物(wu)。唐(tang)代(dai)道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)石(shi)(shi)窟能保(bao)留至今,為(wei)難得的(de)文物(wu)珍品,1986年,這里的(de)道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)被(bei)選入《中(zhong)國(guo)美術全(quan)集(ji)?四川石(shi)(shi)窟雕塑》卷,日本學者(zhe)(zhe)亦(yi)將這些(xie)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)編入《世界美術全(quan)集(ji)》里,可(ke)見這些(xie)造(zao)像(xiang)(xiang)的(de)文物(wu)藝術價值之高(gao)。
此外,鶴鳴(ming)山(shan)(shan)還(huan)有(you)“一郡奇觀”題刻(ke)《摩崖碑亭記(ji)》、明正(zheng)德十(shi)四的(de)刻(ke)的(de)《劍州(zhou)再建重(zhong)陽(yang)亭記(ji)》、正(zheng)德卯寅摩刻(ke)的(de)《重(zhong)陽(yang)亭詩(shi)有(you)跋》、清(qing)同(tong)治十(shi)年鐫(juan)刻(ke)的(de)《重(zhong)修摩崖亭碑記(ji)》、光緒二十(shi)六(liu)年鐫(juan)刻(ke)的(de)《重(zhong)修重(zhong)陽(yang)亭碑》等石(shi)刻(ke)。這些(xie)石(shi)刻(ke)藝(yi)術珍品是古(gu)代勞動人民智慧的(de)結(jie)晶。1962年在鶴鳴(ming)山(shan)(shan)墾荒造林出土的(de)宋代道教祭祀用品有(you)銅壺、銅瓶、銅醮斗等;還(huan)有(you)宋代龍泉窟(ku)產的(de)精品“蓮瓣紋豆青瓷碗”,經專家鑒定為國(guo)家一級(ji)文物(wu)。
張陵創立五斗米道
張陵(34—156),中國東漢五斗米道創立者。后改名張道陵,字輔漢,敬為張天師。沛國豐邑(今江蘇豐縣)人。少時喜讀(du)河(he)洛圖諱(hui)、天文地(di)理(li)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)書。曾入(ru)太(tai)(tai)(tai)學,通達五經,又好黃老(lao)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)學,舉薦(jian)“賢良(liang)方正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)直言極諫(jian)科(ke)”。漢(han)(han)(han)明(ming)帝時曾任巴郡江州(今(jin)四(si)(si)(si)川重(zhong)慶)令,后(hou)隱居北(bei)邙(mang)山(shan)(今(jin)河(he)南洛陽北(bei)),修(xiu)煉長生(sheng)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)。朝廷久征不(bu)就。東漢(han)(han)(han)順(shun)帝時,修(xiu)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)于(yu)鵠鳴(ming)山(shan)(今(jin)四(si)(si)(si)川大邑縣境內),創立(li)五斗米道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)。教(jiao)(jiao)門(men)中(zhong)尊(zun)老(lao)子為(wei)(wei)教(jiao)(jiao)主(zhu),以《老(lao)子五千言》為(wei)(wei)經典,自稱太(tai)(tai)(tai)上(shang)(shang)(shang)老(lao)君(jun),授為(wei)(wei)“三天法(fa)師(shi)正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)一(yi)真人”。制作道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)書24篇(pian),建立(li)24治(zhi)(zhi)區,各治(zhi)(zhi)立(li)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)官祭酒,以統治(zhi)(zhi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)民。道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)民有犯小過者(zhe)以悔過自新為(wei)(wei)奉道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)主(zhu)旨,并用(yong)符(fu)水(shui)咒(zhou)法(fa)為(wei)(wei)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)民治(zhi)(zhi)病。傳有弟(di)子王長、趙升(sheng)等。子孫世襲天師(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)號,歷(li)代帝君(jun)皆加(jia)有封(feng)號。東漢(han)(han)(han)順(shun)帝(126—144年(nian)(nian))時,張(zhang)陵聞(wen)蜀(shu)地(di)多名山(shan),民風(feng)淳厚,易(yi)于(yu)教(jiao)(jiao)化,于(yu)是(shi)攜弟(di)子入(ru)蜀(shu),居住在(zai)鶴鳴(ming)山(shan)(又名鵠山(shan))修(xiu)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)。精思(si)煉志(zhi)數年(nian)(nian),著作道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)書二(er)十四(si)(si)(si)篇(pian)。感(gan)太(tai)(tai)(tai)上(shang)(shang)(shang)親(qin)降,授以《三天正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)法(fa)》、《正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)一(yi)科(ke)術(shu)要(yao)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)法(fa)》、《正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)一(yi)盟威妙經》、《三業(ye)六通之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)訣》,命為(wei)(wei)天師(shi)。于(yu)是(shi),張(zhang)陵以鶴鳴(ming)山(shan)為(wei)(wei)中(zhong)心(xin)設二(er)十四(si)(si)(si)治(zhi)(zhi),是(shi)正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)一(yi)盟威道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)的基(ji)層組織與(yu)(yu)活動中(zhong)心(xin)。初設二(er)十四(si)(si)(si)治(zhi)(zhi),主(zhu)要(yao)集中(zhong)在(zai)蜀(shu)漢(han)(han)(han)地(di)區,后(hou)為(wei)(wei)與(yu)(yu)二(er)十八宿相(xiang)配,乃增至二(er)十八治(zhi)(zhi),其中(zhong)陽平治(zhi)(zhi)是(shi)正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)一(yi)盟威道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)的總(zong)部。傳太(tai)(tai)(tai)上(shang)(shang)(shang)正(zheng)(zheng)(zheng)一(yi)盟威之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao),奉老(lao)子為(wei)(wei)教(jiao)(jiao)祖,尊(zun)稱太(tai)(tai)(tai)上(shang)(shang)(shang)老(lao)君(jun),以《老(lao)子五千文》為(wei)(wei)主(zhu)要(yao)經典,創立(li)了道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)。
張陵初創的(de)正一(yi)(yi)盟(meng)威道,其(qi)(qi)主(zhu)要經典有(you)《老子五千文》、《太平洞極(ji)經》等。其(qi)(qi)主(zhu)要宗教活動是:誦習五千文;有(you)罪首過;符水(shui)治(zhi)病;用章表與鬼神為(wei)誓約。其(qi)(qi)組織制度(du)主(zhu)要是:各治(zhi)置祭(ji)酒,以領(ling)道民。并規定按時“付天倉”及(ji)“三(san)會”。付天倉,即奉道者于十(shi)月(yue)一(yi)(yi)日向天師、祭(ji)酒交納(na)信米五斗(dou);三(san)會,即奉道者一(yi)(yi)年三(san)次(正月(yue)七(qi)(qi)日、七(qi)(qi)月(yue)七(qi)(qi)日、十(shi)月(yue)五日)朝會天師治(zhi)。