十八里長峽自(zi)然(ran)保護區始建于1988年,2002年晉升為(wei)市級(ji)自(zi)然(ran)保護區。
2003年8月(yue),湖北省(sheng)政府批準(zhun)納(na)入省(sheng)級自然保護區(qu)建設。
2004年12月,湖(hu)北(bei)十八(ba)里長峽省級自(zi)然保護區管(guan)理局掛牌成立。
2005年(nian)3月,完成了管理局內設科室(shi)配置(zhi)及二級(ji)單(dan)位的組建。
2014年1月(yue),晉升為國家級自(zi)然(ran)保護區。
湖(hu)北(bei)十八里長(chang)峽(xia)自然保護區位于湖(hu)北(bei)省(sheng)竹溪縣(xian)(xian)南部,鄂、渝(yu)、陜交界處,北(bei)緯31°31′13″~31°43′15″,東經(jing)109°42′50″~109°58′15″,距(ju)離竹溪縣(xian)(xian)城248 km、重慶市(shi)巫(wu)溪縣(xian)(xian)城54 km、陜西省(sheng)鎮坪縣(xian)(xian)城81 km。
保(bao)護區地(di)處(chu)北亞(ya)熱帶向(xiang)溫(wen)帶過(guo)度地(di)帶,氣(qi)(qi)候(hou)區劃上為(wei)(wei)亞(ya)熱帶濕潤季風(feng),具有南北兼(jian)宜(yi)的特(te)征,四(si)季分明、氣(qi)(qi)候(hou)溫(wen)和、雨量充(chong)沛、夏無酷暑、冬(dong)無嚴寒(han)、光熱適度、溫(wen)暖濕潤。地(di)表(biao)高(gao)(gao)(gao)差懸殊,地(di)表(biao)獨特(te),立(li)體氣(qi)(qi)候(hou)顯著。春季平均(jun)89天,由(you)低山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)到(dao)高(gao)(gao)(gao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)逐漸增多;夏季平均(jun)45天,由(you)低山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)到(dao)高(gao)(gao)(gao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)逐漸減(jian)少(shao);秋季平均(jun)77天,由(you)低山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)到(dao)高(gao)(gao)(gao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)逐漸增加(jia);冬(dong)季平均(jun)154天,由(you)高(gao)(gao)(gao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)到(dao)低山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)逐漸減(jian)少(shao)。歷年(nian)(nian)平均(jun)氣(qi)(qi)溫(wen)14.4℃,隨地(di)勢變化從河谷(gu)到(dao)低山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)、中(zhong)高(gao)(gao)(gao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)、高(gao)(gao)(gao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)依次遞減(jian)。海拔(ba)(ba)(ba)每上升100 m,氣(qi)(qi)溫(wen)下降(jiang)0.53℃。歷年(nian)(nian)極端高(gao)(gao)(gao)氣(qi)(qi)溫(wen)為(wei)(wei)1969年(nian)(nian)﹣12.9 ℃,極端高(gao)(gao)(gao)氣(qi)(qi)溫(wen)為(wei)(wei)1984年(nian)(nian)40 ℃。海拔(ba)(ba)(ba)在(zai)2000m左(zuo)右(you)的高(gao)(gao)(gao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)年(nian)(nian)平均(jun)氣(qi)(qi)溫(wen)在(zai)6℃~11℃之間(jian);海拔(ba)(ba)(ba)在(zai)1000m左(zuo)右(you)的中(zhong)高(gao)(gao)(gao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)年(nian)(nian)平均(jun)氣(qi)(qi)溫(wen)在(zai)11℃~14℃之間(jian);海拔(ba)(ba)(ba)在(zai)500m左(zuo)右(you)的丘陵(ling)河谷(gu)區,年(nian)(nian)平均(jun)氣(qi)(qi)溫(wen)在(zai)14℃~16℃之間(jian)。
十(shi)八里長(chang)峽自然保(bao)護區(qu)(qu)為中(zhong)國(guo)中(zhong)東(dong)部(bu)地(di)(di)(di)區(qu)(qu)地(di)(di)(di)貌深(shen)切(qie)劇烈的(de)(de)地(di)(di)(di)區(qu)(qu),是(shi)我國(guo)中(zhong)東(dong)部(bu)地(di)(di)(di)區(qu)(qu)深(shen)的(de)(de)峽谷(gu)。保(bao)護區(qu)(qu)中(zhong)部(bu)巖(yan)(yan)溶(rong)(rong)地(di)(di)(di)貌現象相(xiang)當發(fa)育,為典型的(de)(de)喀斯特(te)地(di)(di)(di)貌,溶(rong)(rong)蝕盆地(di)(di)(di)、落水洞、巖(yan)(yan)溶(rong)(rong)漏斗、溶(rong)(rong)溝(gou)石(shi)芽、溶(rong)(rong)洞豐富;西部(bu)和南(nan)部(bu)還有奧陶系、志留(liu)系、二疊(die)(die)系和三疊(die)(die)系。境內峰(feng)高(gao)(gao)谷(gu)深(shen),河(he)谷(gu)兩岸崖壁(bi)陡峭(qiao),故有長(chang)峽之稱。山巒(luan)起伏(fu),高(gao)(gao)低懸(xuan)殊,高(gao)(gao)山峰(feng)為南(nan)部(bu)的(de)(de)蔥坪(原(yuan)名為鳳凰嶺),海拔2740.2 m,低處為東(dong)部(bu)的(de)(de)雙河(he)口(kou),海拔僅570.0 m,相(xiang)對高(gao)(gao)差2170.2 m。主要地(di)(di)(di)形(xing)由山地(di)(di)(di)、懸(xuan)巖(yan)(yan)、河(he)流組(zu)成,保(bao)護區(qu)(qu)內主要地(di)(di)(di)貌為中(zhong)山,主要巖(yan)(yan)石(shi)及成土母巖(yan)(yan)有石(shi)灰巖(yan)(yan)、板巖(yan)(yan)、頁巖(yan)(yan)、花(hua)崗巖(yan)(yan)等。地(di)(di)(di)勢呈(cheng)南(nan)高(gao)(gao)北低,境內崇山峻(jun)嶺,山峰(feng)林(lin)立(li),峽谷(gu)幽深(shen),地(di)(di)(di)形(xing)險峭(qiao)。
地表水
保護區是南水北調工程重要的水源涵養地(di)之一,境內水系(xi)由大河及其支(zhi)流構成。
大(da)(da)河(he)(he)亦稱五道河(he)(he),是保護區(qu)境(jing)內(nei)大(da)(da)的河(he)(he)流(liu)(liu),源于區(qu)內(nei)的長(chang)(chang)嶺溝(gou)(gou),由西(xi)向東經向壩流(liu)(liu)入竹山縣官渡(du)河(he)(he)上游(you)的公(gong)祖(zu)河(he)(he),全長(chang)(chang)40 km,流(liu)(liu)域(yu)面積313 km,高差1755 m,徑(jing)流(liu)(liu)量3.13×10m,徑(jing)流(liu)(liu)深1000 mm。其主要(yao)支(zhi)流(liu)(liu)向壩河(he)(he),全長(chang)(chang)20 km。另外還有大(da)(da)小河(he)(he)溪近(jin)20條(tiao),總長(chang)(chang)近(jin)50 km。在海拔(ba)1350 m 的長(chang)(chang)嶺溝(gou)(gou)埡子,有一天然湖(hu)泊,面積1.6 hm,自然風光秀麗(li)。所有徑(jing)流(liu)(liu)均匯(hui)入漢江,注入丹江口水(shui)庫。
地下水
區(qu)內(nei)石灰巖(yan)分(fen)布面積較大(da)(da),暗河(he)、泉流較多(duo)。暗河(he)主要分(fen)布在大(da)(da)河(he)各級支(zhi)流河(he)溪(xi)、流域中,高山巖(yan)溶地(di)表(biao)徑流滲入地(di)下形成暗河(he),大(da)(da)都(dou)在低山一(yi)帶又成暗泉涌(yong)出;泉流具有流量穩定(ding),四季不(bu)斷(duan),落(luo)差較大(da)(da)的特點。
保護(hu)區內的土(tu)(tu)(tu)壤(rang)(rang)劃分(fen)(fen)為(wei)黃棕(zong)(zong)壤(rang)(rang)、棕(zong)(zong)壤(rang)(rang)、暗棕(zong)(zong)壤(rang)(rang)大區。竹溪縣(xian)土(tu)(tu)(tu)壤(rang)(rang)共劃分(fen)(fen)為(wei)6個(ge)土(tu)(tu)(tu)類、13個(ge)亞類、30個(ge)土(tu)(tu)(tu)屬、125個(ge)土(tu)(tu)(tu)種、58個(ge)變種;保護(hu)區土(tu)(tu)(tu)壤(rang)(rang)可(ke)分(fen)(fen)為(wei)6大土(tu)(tu)(tu)類、9個(ge)亞類、10個(ge)土(tu)(tu)(tu)屬,主要(yao)土(tu)(tu)(tu)壤(rang)(rang)為(wei)黃棕(zong)(zong)壤(rang)(rang)和棕(zong)(zong)壤(rang)(rang)。保護(hu)區內土(tu)(tu)(tu)壤(rang)(rang)分(fen)(fen)布(bu)的垂直帶(dai)(dai)譜非(fei)常明顯,隨著海(hai)拔升(sheng)高依(yi)次出現(xian)泥(ni)質黃棕(zong)(zong)壤(rang)(rang)帶(dai)(dai)、山地黃棕(zong)(zong)壤(rang)(rang)帶(dai)(dai)、棕(zong)(zong)壤(rang)(rang)帶(dai)(dai)、暗棕(zong)(zong)壤(rang)(rang)帶(dai)(dai)。
十(shi)八里長峽自然保(bao)護區(qu)的(de)(de)植(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)區(qu)系屬(shu)(shu)泛北極植(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)區(qu)、中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)(guo)-日本森林植(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)亞區(qu)、華中(zhong)(zhong)區(qu)系。植(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)類分布(bu)(bu)(bu)有(you)172科,905屬(shu)(shu),2523種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)。分布(bu)(bu)(bu)有(you)國(guo)(guo)家(jia)瀕危保(bao)護野生植(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)43種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),其中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)(guo)家(jia)重(zhong)點保(bao)護植(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)26種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(Ⅰ級5種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),Ⅱ級 21種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)),占(zhan)(zhan)湖(hu)北省(sheng)總數47種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)55.3%。國(guo)(guo)家(jia)珍貴樹種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)17種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),占(zhan)(zhan)湖(hu)北省(sheng)總數28種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)64.3%。國(guo)(guo)家(jia)瀕危保(bao)護植(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)33種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),占(zhan)(zhan)湖(hu)北省(sheng)總數62種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)54.8%。中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)(guo)特有(you)分布(bu)(bu)(bu)植(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)38屬(shu)(shu)。紅豆杉原(yuan)始群(qun)(qun)落(luo)達4500多畝,珙桐原(yuan)始群(qun)(qun)落(luo)達5000多畝。已查明分布(bu)(bu)(bu)有(you)“小(xiao)勾兒茶”植(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)株32株,大單株高12米(mi)胸徑13 .5厘米(mi)。保(bao)護區(qu)野生動物(wu)(wu)(wu)資源(yuan)豐富,已查明陸(lu)生脊椎動物(wu)(wu)(wu)307種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),其中(zhong)(zhong)有(you)國(guo)(guo)家(jia)重(zhong)點保(bao)護陸(lu)生脊椎動物(wu)(wu)(wu)48種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(Ⅰ級2種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),Ⅱ級46種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)),占(zhan)(zhan)湖(hu)北省(sheng)總數109種(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)44.04%。
十八里長(chang)峽自然保護區(qu)(qu)蘊(yun)藏著豐(feng)富的(de)野生(sheng)動(dong)植(zhi)物(wu)資源,是(shi)湖(hu)北(bei)省乃(nai)至全國(guo)(guo)保存較為(wei)完好的(de)北(bei)亞熱帶原始森林群落之一(yi),是(shi)中國(guo)(guo)優先保護領(ling)域和(he)具有(you)(you)全球(qiu)意(yi)義生(sheng)物(wu)多樣性關鍵地區(qu)(qu),具有(you)(you)極(ji)高的(de)保護和(he)科(ke)研價值。主要保護對象為(wei)瀕(bin)危野生(sheng)動(dong)植(zhi)物(wu)及(ji)其(qi)棲息地、陸生(sheng)生(sheng)物(wu)及(ji)其(qi)生(sheng)境共(gong)同組成的(de)森林生(sheng)態(tai)系(xi)統(tong)和(he)生(sheng)物(wu)物(wu)種的(de)多樣性,特別是(shi)紅豆杉和(he)珙桐等國(guo)(guo)家(jia)保護植(zhi)物(wu)及(ji)豹等極(ji)度瀕(bin)危動(dong)物(wu)及(ji)其(qi)棲息地。