宮(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)系藁(gao)城(cheng)傳統名特(te)(te)面(mian)(mian)食(shi)品,風味獨特(te)(te)。該(gai)產(chan)品以(yi)優質小(xiao)麥面(mian)(mian)粉、香油、淀(dian)粉為(wei)主要原料,經10余(yu)道工序精制(zhi)而成(cheng),有(you)營(ying)養、雜糧、風味三大系列。其配料考究,制(zhi)作(zuo)精細,營(ying)養豐富,具(ju)有(you)條(tiao)細心空、耐煮不糟(zao)、湯清面(mian)(mian)秀、嚼有(you)口勁等特(te)(te)點。20世紀(ji)50年代(dai),藁(gao)城(cheng)縣政府(fu)組織有(you)關部門(men),對宮(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)傳統技術進行深入挖掘(jue)、整理(li),開(kai)始恢復(fu)和發展宮(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)批量生產(chan)。1960年縣糧食(shi)局建成(cheng)第(di)一家掛面(mian)(mian)生產(chan)廠(后改為(wei)宮(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)廠),主要銷往石(shi)家莊。如今(jin),藁(gao)城(cheng)宮(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)不僅行銷全國各地,還出口日(ri)本、馬(ma)來西亞、新加(jia)坡、英國、俄羅(luo)斯、美國和加(jia)拿大等國家。
宮(gong)(gong)面原為(wei)手工掛面,生產始于唐貞觀年間,經無數次工藝改(gai)進,當時即已成為(wei)具有地方(fang)風(feng)味的名特食(shi)品。清代曾(ceng)連年進貢(gong)朝廷,被(bei)列(lie)為(wei)宮(gong)(gong)廷御(yu)膳佳品,遂稱之為(wei)宮(gong)(gong)面。對此,《藁城縣志》曾(ceng)有這欄的記載:“吾邑(yi)之掛面,系土(tu)人所(suo)藝,味極(ji)適口,相傳數百載,曾(ceng)進貢(gong)清皇室,故名產也(ye)。”
藁(gao)城宮面(mian)(mian)(mian),又(you)名(ming)藕面(mian)(mian)(mian)。源于(yu)隋唐,盛于(yu)明(ming)(ming)清(qing)(qing),歷時(shi)(shi)1500余(yu)年(nian)源遠(yuan)流長。據元(yuan)朝時(shi)(shi)期馬(ma)可波羅(luo)所(suo)著《馬(ma)可波羅(luo)游記》記載(zai),意大(da)利(li)空心粉就是按照“藁(gao)城宮面(mian)(mian)(mian)—藕面(mian)(mian)(mian)”模(mo)仿、演變而來。明(ming)(ming)朝詩人凌(ling)儒子曾賦詩一(yi)首:眾贊荷花貴似仙,情(qing)深(shen)又(you)嘆并(bing)蒂(di)蓮。莫(mo)愁(chou)去蒂(di)恐絲(si)斷(duan),化做藕面(mian)(mian)(mian)皆是緣(yuan)。對“藁(gao)城宮面(mian)(mian)(mian)—藕面(mian)(mian)(mian)”贊譽有加。清(qing)(qing)朝時(shi)(shi),地方官(guan)吏就以藕面(mian)(mian)(mian)常年(nian)進貢(gong)皇宮,故(gu)得名(ming)“宮面(mian)(mian)(mian)”。直隸總(zong)督李鴻章以此進貢(gong)慈禧時(shi)(shi)曾說:“藁(gao)邑之掛面(mian)(mian)(mian),系鄉(xiang)人所(suo)藝(yi),味極適口(kou),相傳數百載(zai),乃(nai)名(ming)產也。”在民國時(shi)(shi)期,出口(kou)朝鮮,并(bing)受孫中山(shan)南京總(zong)統府嘉獎。
“藁城宮面—藕面”不(bu)(bu)(bu)僅是一種食品(pin),更是一種文(wen)化。關(guan)于它還有一個美麗的(de)傳(chuan)說:當年張(zhang)(zhang)果(guo)老(lao)邀(yao)柴王(wang)爺(ye)與魯班打賭,賭趙(zhao)州(zhou)橋禁不(bu)(bu)(bu)住張(zhang)(zhang)果(guo)老(lao)的(de)毛驢和柴王(wang)爺(ye)的(de)推柴車,結(jie)果(guo)張(zhang)(zhang)果(guo)老(lao)驢馱日月星辰,柴王(wang)爺(ye)車推三山五(wu)岳,從南向北(bei)走過趙(zhao)州(zhou)橋,卻(que)只留下驢蹄印子和車轍印,而(er)橋卻(que)分毫無損。(河(he)北(bei)著名民歌--“小放牛(niu)”皆(jie)(jie)因(yin)此而(er)來)兩位神仙心中(zhong)不(bu)(bu)(bu)快,不(bu)(bu)(bu)知(zhi)不(bu)(bu)(bu)覺(jue)向北(bei)走了五(wu)十里,來到(dao)了滹沱河(he)岸邊,放眼望去遠近皆(jie)(jie)是荷花(hua)荷葉,美不(bu)(bu)(bu)勝(sheng)收(shou)。
二(er)(er)人覺(jue)得饑腸轆轆,見(jian)荷(he)花深處有一(yi)(yi)(yi)酒(jiu)館(guan),便(bian)(bian)走了(le)(le)(le)進去。酒(jiu)館(guan)是兩(liang)位(wei)八旬(xun)開(kai)外的(de)(de)老(lao)(lao)夫妻所開(kai),銀發(fa)飄飄,仙風道(dao)骨。柴王(wang)爺(ye)問有啥飯菜,老(lao)(lao)太太說(shuo):“有空(kong)心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)的(de)(de)菜,空(kong)心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)的(de)(de)窩頭,還有空(kong)心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)的(de)(de)葫(hu)蘆(lu)裝(zhuang)的(de)(de)酒(jiu)。”張(zhang)果老(lao)(lao)一(yi)(yi)(yi)聽(ting)氣就不(bu)打一(yi)(yi)(yi)處來(lai)(lai)心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)想:空(kong)心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)的(de)(de)石(shi)橋讓(rang)俺們丟盡了(le)(le)(le)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)子,吃個飯又(you)碰上空(kong)心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)菜,空(kong)心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)酒(jiu)…,便(bian)(bian)道(dao):“我(wo)們只(zhi)要兩(liang)碗空(kong)心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)吃,別的(de)(de)不(bu)要。”老(lao)(lao)太一(yi)(yi)(yi)聽(ting)犯了(le)(le)(le)難,看(kan)了(le)(le)(le)看(kan)掌勺的(de)(de)老(lao)(lao)漢(han),老(lao)(lao)漢(han)說(shuo):“兩(liang)位(wei)稍等,一(yi)(yi)(yi)會便(bian)(bian)好(hao)。”說(shuo)完便(bian)(bian)拿(na)菜刀出店而(er)去。一(yi)(yi)(yi)會那老(lao)(lao)漢(han)拿(na)回幾根(gen)帶梗的(de)(de)并蒂蓮,切去蓮花把(ba)(ba)蓮梗扔進鍋里(li),轉(zhuan)(zhuan)眼便(bian)(bian)端上兩(liang)碗湯(tang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),柴王(wang)爺(ye)吃面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)喝湯(tang),狼吞(tun)虎咽,片刻即完,連贊好(hao)吃。而(er)張(zhang)果老(lao)(lao)為了(le)(le)(le)驗證是空(kong)心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),就把(ba)(ba)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條含在嘴里(li),用面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條來(lai)(lai)吸食面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)湯(tang),果然碗里(li)只(zhi)剩下了(le)(le)(le)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),而(er)沒(mei)了(le)(le)(le)湯(tang),才(cai)(cai)相信是空(kong)心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。張(zhang)果老(lao)(lao)大吃一(yi)(yi)(yi)驚,屈(qu)指一(yi)(yi)(yi)算,原來(lai)(lai)此人乃財神爺(ye)-空(kong)心(xin)(xin)(xin)(xin)人比干轉(zhuan)(zhuan)世。只(zhi)見(jian)那老(lao)(lao)漢(han)笑笑,說(shuo):“老(lao)(lao)漢(han)名叫荷(he)芑(qi)蓀,今(jin)日有緣(yuan),請二(er)(er)位(wei)喝幾杯(bei)吧”說(shuo)完便(bian)(bian)拿(na)來(lai)(lai)酒(jiu)葫(hu)蘆(lu)、酒(jiu)杯(bei)和一(yi)(yi)(yi)盤藕片,邊倒酒(jiu)邊說(shuo):“葫(hu)蘆(lu)掏(tao)的(de)(de)空(kong)了(le)(le)(le)才(cai)(cai)叫酒(jiu)葫(hu)蘆(lu),酒(jiu)杯(bei)燒得空(kong)了(le)(le)(le)才(cai)(cai)能盛酒(jiu),面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條鉆的(de)(de)空(kong)了(le)(le)(le)才(cai)(cai)能吸湯(tang),趙州的(de)(de)大石(shi)橋建的(de)(de)空(kong)了(le)(le)(le),方能負重,否則那就不(bu)是橋了(le)(le)(le)…。”張(zhang)果老(lao)(lao)聽(ting)完,哈哈一(yi)(yi)(yi)笑,把(ba)(ba)酒(jiu)一(yi)(yi)(yi)飲(yin)而(er)盡,隨手把(ba)(ba)驢(lv)鞭一(yi)(yi)(yi)扔,騎驢(lv)而(er)去。從此后張(zhang)果老(lao)(lao)便(bian)(bian)沒(mei)了(le)(le)(le)驢(lv)鞭子,當地(di)就多(duo)了(le)(le)(le)一(yi)(yi)(yi)句諺語:“張(zhang)果老(lao)(lao)騎驢(lv)---愛上哪兒(er)上哪。”
那驢鞭落地化成了一座石(shi)碑(bei),碑(bei)上(shang)有詩(shi)曰: 盧(lu)溝獅不語,丹(dan)心無(wu)馬革,若得戰令出,焉(yan)能過長城?后(hou)來(lai)此地出了著(zhu)名愛國抗日名將――何基豐(feng)。
再說(shuo)那財神爺轉世的荷芑(qi)蓀,此(ci)后便讓(rang)當地(di)百姓,用(yong)當地(di)小(xiao)(xiao)麥,當地(di)的水,跟他(ta)學起做這(zhe)種(zhong)空(kong)心(xin)面(mian),因其有(you)著:條(tiao)細空(kong)心(xin)、筋(jin)道耐煮、湯(tang)清面(mian)秀、味皆(jie)入面(mian)、健身養顏等(deng)特點(dian),而名揚四方。而用(yong)其它(ta)地(di)方的小(xiao)(xiao)麥和水,卻做不成(cheng)這(zhe)種(zhong)空(kong)心(xin)面(mian)來,(于是有(you)了(le)一個說(shuo)法:藁城的面(mian)條(tiao)好(hao)做,眼難鉆。)
后來(lai)人們便把這種面(mian)(mian)叫做(zuo)(zuo):藕面(mian)(mian),意為(wei)(wei):因荷(he),得藕。隨(sui)著時間推移藕面(mian)(mian)已經融進(jin)藁城(cheng)人們的生命(ming)里(li),并賦(fu)予了更多的感(gan)情寓(yu)意:洞房花燭夜必食藕面(mian)(mian)寓(yu)意為(wei)(wei):夫(fu)妻今生永(yong)遠同(tong)心(xin)同(tong)德,相濡(ru)以沫(mo);金榜題名時眾(zhong)鄉(xiang)(xiang)親(qin)皆以藕面(mian)(mian)為(wei)(wei)賀(he)禮寓(yu)意為(wei)(wei):不論以后官(guan)做(zuo)(zuo)的有(you)多大,人走(zou)的有(you)多遠,都(dou)別忘了家鄉(xiang)(xiang)的鄉(xiang)(xiang)親(qin);家來(lai)貴客、添丁進(jin)口…都(dou)能見到藕面(mian)(mian)…。
“藁城(cheng)宮面(mian)—藕面(mian)”是以當(dang)地優質高(gao)筋小(xiao)麥精粉(fen)、精油、精鹽、雞蛋為主要(yao)原料,精心手工(gong)制(zhi)作(zuo)而成,直徑僅為0.7MM,皆為空心。它的制(zhi)作(zuo)要(yao)經(jing)過20余道工(gong)序,工(gong)作(zuo)流程(cheng)70多個小(xiao)時,自然風干(gan),且受天氣影響嚴重,對溫(wen)度、濕度要(yao)求嚴格,嚴寒、酷暑(shu)、雨霧天、陰天不(bu)能(neng)生(sheng)產(chan),年均只有一(yi)百來天可(ke)正常生(sheng)產(chan)。因(yin)不(bu)能(neng)大規模的生(sheng)產(chan)。而愈發珍貴。
食(shi)用方法可按個人口味做(zuo)成清湯(tang)(tang)面(mian)(mian)(mian),打鹵面(mian)(mian)(mian)、涼(liang)拌(ban)面(mian)(mian)(mian)等。但最宜做(zuo)湯(tang)(tang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)為(wei)佳,因其空心耐煮,湯(tang)(tang)味皆由面(mian)(mian)(mian)條的空心滲透而入味,光(guang)滑繞舌、細(xi)膩如玉(yu)、獨具(ju)風味。
20世紀50年(nian)代,藁城縣(xian)政府組織(zhi)有關部門,對宮(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)傳統技術進行深入(ru)挖掘(jue)、整理,開始(shi)恢復和(he)發展宮(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)批量生產。 1960年(nian)縣(xian)糧食局(ju)建(jian)(jian)(jian)成第一家掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)生產廠(chang)(后(hou)改為(wei)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)廠(chang))。80年(nian)代糧食局(ju)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)廠(chang)、外(wai)貿局(ju)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)廠(chang)等廠(chang)家相繼擴(kuo)建(jian)(jian)(jian)和(he)新建(jian)(jian)(jian),并相應發展起4000多個(ge)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)加工專(zhuan)業戶,基(ji)本形成專(zhuan)業化、系列化宮(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)生產體(ti)系。為(wei)實現傳統宮(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)營養化、多樣化,研制(zhi)出了雞(ji)蛋、蕎麥、牛奶、辣(la)椒、西紅柿等不(bu)同(tong)基(ji)料適宜于孕(yun)婦、兒童、老年(nian)保健(jian)的宮(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)新品種20余(yu)個(ge),深受國內外(wai)廣大消費者青睞。
如今,宮面不僅作為藁城(cheng)特(te)色禮品(pin)行銷全(quan)國各地(di),還出口日(ri)本、馬來西亞、新加(jia)坡(po)、英國、俄羅(luo)斯,美國和(he)加(jia)拿(na)大等國。