總(zong)溪(xi)河(he),發源于赫章,流(liu)經畢節七星關(guan)和納(na)(na)雍,下游接六沖河(he)入烏江(jiang)。在(zai)納(na)(na)雍縣城東北面(mian)維新鎮(zhen)、厙東關(guan)鄉(xiang)、董(dong)地鄉(xiang)境內。從總(zong)溪(xi)河(he)大橋(萬壽(shou)橋)至下游一段,長十二(er)公里(li),水(shui)面(mian)寬三四十米(mi),水(shui)深二(er)三米(mi)。
河道蜿蜒曲折,水流有時平穩如鏡,有時波浪排空。兩岸青山對峙,峭壁入云,猴鳴鳥啼,飛瀑鳴響,洞穴成群。乘船而下,宛若置身雄奇的三峽和秀麗的漓江。 總溪河原名“總機河”,因水(shui)(shui)西(xi)安氏四十八目(mu)之一的總機安文思居住于此得名。后稱“總溪”, 意為眾流(liu)(liu)成(cheng)涇。兩(liang)岸有(you)銀灣子(zi)、五(wu)簸(bo)浪、一線天、觀猴巖(yan)、石龍(long)、三級(ji)飛瀑、段(duan)家灣口(kou)等景點。清(qing)代汪炳瑟璈泛舟(zhou)河上,有(you)《題總機河》詩:“漫漫河水(shui)(shui)路回旋(xuan),河流(liu)(liu)總機浪接天。百里流(liu)(liu)來(lai)千里會,一波折去萬波連。浮沉野鶩穿新漲,欸乃漁郎泛小(xiao)船(chuan)。翹(qiao)首巖(yan)扇絕險(xian)處,石橋洞(dong)口(kou)鎖晴川(chuan)。” 萬壽橋是畢(bi)節、納雍公路的要津(jin)。橋長六十米(mi)(mi),寬八點五(wu)米(mi)(mi),高二十五(wu)米(mi)(mi),架兩(liang)山間(jian)。建于清(qing)道光十九年(公元1839年),橋頭立(li)有(you)兩(liang)塊石碑,
記載造(zao)橋始末(mo)。“總己(ji)河(he)(he)(he)原有渡船,每(mei)遇水泛(fan)之期”,“對(dui)河(he)(he)(he)兩岸苦守(shou)水退,方(fang)(fang)能開渡,因(yin)此(ci)舉(ju)念修造(zao)石橋”。 沿河(he)(he)(he)兩岸大小洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)穴數十(shi)個。有的(de)(de)(de)高(gao)居山(shan)頂,橫臥絕(jue)(jue)壁(bi):有的(de)(de)(de)半潛入(ru)水,輕披晶簾。“宣慰(wei)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)”在大橋下游(you)五(wu)公(gong)(gong)(gong)里(li)(li)左岸絕(jue)(jue)壁(bi)上,洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)口距水面一(yi)百五(wu)六(liu)十(shi)米。周(zhou)圍林木茂盛,空谷傳(chuan)響。相(xiang)傳(chuan)清康熙三(san)年(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元1664年)吳(wu)三(san)桂征水西,貴州宣慰(wei)使安(an)坤(kun)率(lv)部據(ju)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)扼守(shou),數日(ri)不(bu)出(chu)(chu),因(yin)此(ci)得名。今(jin)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)所(suo)在附近,有奢(she)香驛道(dao)遺(yi)跡。洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)深(shen)四(si)公(gong)(gong)(gong)里(li)(li),有一(yi)條主(zhu)巷(xiang)道(dao),十(shi)來條分(fen)道(dao)。洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)中(zhong)有洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)相(xiang)連。橋下游(you)十(shi)公(gong)(gong)(gong)里(li)(li)彭(peng)家洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)深(shen)四(si)公(gong)(gong)(gong)里(li)(li),鐘(zhong)乳(ru)石倒懸(xuan),如群(qun)龍飛舞。山(shan)山(shan)嶺嶺被森(sen)林覆蓋(gai),面積達七萬(wan)多畝,出(chu)(chu)產(chan)聞名的(de)(de)(de)“納(na)墨玉”。 總溪河(he)(he)(he)流經約(yue)十(shi)二公(gong)(gong)(gong)里(li)(li)后(hou),進入(ru)溶(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)成為伏(fu)流,在地(di)下潛流二點五(wu)公(gong)(gong)(gong)里(li)(li)。地(di)表是險峻的(de)(de)(de)梯子(zi)巖(yan),為納(na)雍(yong)與大方(fang)(fang)交界處(chu),危峰(feng)突兀,壁(bi)如刀切(qie),十(shi)分(fen)險要。1935年4月,紅九(jiu)軍團長征時在大方(fang)(fang)貓場被國民黨軍隊及地(di)萬(wan)武裝包圍,在軍團長羅(luo)炳輝、政委何長工指揮(hui)下,突破重圍,翻越梯子(zi)巖(yan)進入(ru)納(na)雍(yong)。這一(yi)帶(dai)有許多關于紅軍的(de)(de)(de)史跡和革命遺(yi)址。 河(he)(he)(he)水出(chu)(chu)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)后(hou),明流一(yi)點五(wu)公(gong)(gong)(gong)里(li)(li),再次進入(ru)溶(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),形成第二段伏(fu)流。伏(fu)流時隱(yin)時現,有仙人洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)、大穿洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)等“九(jiu)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)天”溶(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)群(qun)。