靈(ling)巖(yan)山位于(yu)江南(nan)水鄉蘇州西(xi)南(nan)的木瀆靈(ling)巖(yan)山,因為靈(ling)巖(yan)塔前(qian)有(you)一塊"靈(ling)芝石(shi)"十分有(you)名,因此得(de)名"靈(ling)巖(yan)山"。 山上多(duo)奇石(shi)。巨巖(yan)嵯峨,怪(guai)石(shi)嶙(lin)峋,物象宛然,得(de)于(yu)仿(fang)佛。舊有(you)"十二奇石(shi)"或"十八(ba)奇石(shi)"之說。
靈(ling)巖(yan)山有"靈(ling)巖(yan)秀絕(jue)冠江南"和"靈(ling)巖(yan)奇絕(jue)勝(sheng)天臺"的美譽(yu)。有昂首(shou)攀游狀(zhuang)的石(shi)(shi)蛇,敲(qiao)打有聲(sheng)的石(shi)(shi)鼓,狀(zhuang)若發團的石(shi)(shi)髫,伸首(shou)隆背(bei)(bei)的石(shi)(shi)龜,兩耳直豎的石(shi)(shi)兔(tu),形影不離的鴛鴦石(shi)(shi),埋頭藏泥(ni)的牛背(bei)(bei)石(shi)(shi)等(deng)。
靈巖山,本是春秋時代吳王(wang)(wang)夫差館娃宮的舊址(zhi),也是越國(guo)獻西施的地方。現今尚存吳王(wang)(wang)遺跡和古(gu)跡有:吳王(wang)(wang)井(jing)、梳(shu)妝(zhuang)臺、玩(wan)花(hua)池(chi)(chi)、玩(wan)月池(chi)(chi)、響廊、琴(qin)臺、西施洞、智積井(jing)、長(chang)壽(shou)亭(ting)(ting)、方亭(ting)(ting)等。
沿登山(shan)御道拾級而(er)上(shang),首先是(shi)繼(ji)廬(lu)亭,因靈(ling)巖山(shan)住持(chi),一代(dai)名(ming)僧(seng)印(yin)(yin)光法師的(de)別(bie)號繼(ji)廬(lu)而(er)得名(ming)。亭柱上(shang)有(you)(you)對聯“大路一條,到(dao)此齊心向(xiang)上(shang);好山(shan)四面,歸來另眼相(xiang)看(kan)”。接著是(shi)迎笑亭,相(xiang)傳始建于宋代(dai),東(dong)坡居士(shi)曾在(zai)(zai)此笑迎釋友。盤折再(zai)上(shang)是(shi)“落(luo)(luo)紅(hong)亭”,靈(ling)巖也有(you)(you)“象山(shan)”之(zhi)(zhi)稱(cheng),舊有(you)(you)“象王(wang)回顧落(luo)(luo)花紅(hong)”之(zhi)(zhi)句,這里是(shi)觀(guan)日落(luo)(luo)之(zhi)(zhi)佳(jia)處。亭東(dong)乃印(yin)(yin)光塔(ta)院,為印(yin)(yin)光和尚埋骨處。印(yin)(yin)光法師(1861~1940)為近代(dai)佛教(jiao)界(jie)泰斗、凈土宗一代(dai)宗師,東(dong)南亞印(yin)(yin)光派創(chuang)始人。落(luo)(luo)紅(hong)亭西有(you)(you)西施洞(dong),相(xiang)傳越王(wang)勾踐與范蠡獻(xian)西施給吳王(wang)夫差(cha)于此等候。后人在(zai)(zai)洞(dong)前建屋,洞(dong)內鐫刻觀(guan)音像,洞(dong)外(wai)種有(you)(you)紫竹,所(suo)(suo)以(yi)又名(ming)“觀(guan)音洞(dong)”,香火頗(po)旺。落(luo)(luo)紅(hong)亭左折而(er)上(shang)約300余步,人稱(cheng)“百步階”,為乾隆帝登靈(ling)巖時(shi)所(suo)(suo)筑御道的(de)一段,山(shan)勢(shi)陡峻。道旁有(you)(you)一方形磚砌(qi)之(zhi)(zhi)臺為梁代(dai)靈(ling)巖山(shan)開山(shan)和尚智積的(de)衣缽(bo)塔(ta),塔(ta)南有(you)(you)一巨石,形似烏龜,昂(ang)首面向(xiang)太湖(hu),故有(you)(you)“烏龜望太湖(hu)”之(zhi)(zhi)說(shuo)(shuo)。石背鐫有(you)(you)“望佛來”三字,石上(shang)有(you)(you)腳印(yin)(yin),據說(shuo)(shuo)西施常站在(zai)(zai)此石上(shang)眺望故鄉。
山頂是靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)寺(si)(si),即吳(wu)王“館(guan)娃宮(gong)”的舊(jiu)址(zhi)。春秋吳(wu)越夫椒(jiao)一(yi)(yi)戰,越國大敗,越王勾踐和(he)大夫范蠡被押為(wei)(wei)(wei)人質,居(ju)住在石(shi)室之中,向夫差獻上越中美女西施。吳(wu)王夫差為(wei)(wei)(wei)西施在靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)山上建造行宮(gong),銅鉤玉檻,奢(she)侈無(wu)比。吳(wu)人稱(cheng)(cheng)美女為(wei)(wei)(wei)娃,故名(ming)“館(guan)娃宮(gong)”。公(gong)元(yuan)前473年,越王勾踐從水路(lu)攻進吳(wu)國,把(ba)這富(fu)麗堂皇(huang)的館(guan)娃宮(gong)付之一(yi)(yi)炬,燒成斷壁殘垣(yuan)。東晉(jin)時(shi)有人在靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)山吳(wu)宮(gong)遺(yi)址(zhi)修建別業。后舍宅(zhai)為(wei)(wei)(wei)寺(si)(si),南(nan)朝梁(liang)天監二(er)年(503年)擴建為(wei)(wei)(wei)寺(si)(si)院,名(ming)“秀峰寺(si)(si)”。唐代改稱(cheng)(cheng)靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)寺(si)(si)。
靈(ling)巖寺(si)現存寺(si)院規模(mo)宏大(da)(da),為(wei)典型(xing)的中國(guo)佛教凈土(tu)道場之(zhi)一。靈(ling)巖寺(si)建在(zai)山頂(ding),高聳入云,巍峨壯(zhuang)觀(guan)。寺(si)門(men)前松柏(bo)參天(tian)(tian),門(men)額“靈(ling)巖山寺(si)” 為(wei)趙樸初(chu)題寫(xie)。進門(men)便(bian)是天(tian)(tian)王殿(dian),亦稱(cheng)彌勒(le)閣(ge),殿(dian)中央供(gong)(gong)奉天(tian)(tian)冠彌勒(le),背后(hou)供(gong)(gong)韋馱菩薩,兩(liang)(liang)側(ce)排(pai)列著四大(da)(da)天(tian)(tian)王。再(zai)進為(wei)前院,院中有池名硯(yan)池,池上架有“界清(qing)(qing)橋(qiao)”,據說(shuo)大(da)(da)雨后(hou),橋(qiao)東(dong)之(zhi)水清(qing)(qing),橋(qiao)西(xi)之(zhi)水濁。大(da)(da)雄(xiong)寶殿(dian)高25米(mi),寬20米(mi),氣勢雄(xiong)偉莊(zhuang)嚴,正中供(gong)(gong)奉釋迦牟尼(ni)佛巨像,迦葉、阿難兩(liang)(liang)弟子(zi)侍立兩(liang)(liang)旁,佛祖背后(hou)為(wei)海島觀(guan)音(yin),東(dong)西(xi)兩(liang)(liang)壁排(pai)列十六(liu)羅(luo)漢。大(da)(da)殿(dian)后(hou)壁供(gong)(gong)奉文殊、普(pu)賢。
位(wei)于大殿(dian)東側(ce)的靈巖(yan)(yan)塔初建于梁代天監二年,歷經(jing)滄桑,現為七(qi)級(ji)(ji)八面(mian)磚塔,挺拔聳立(li),是(shi)靈巖(yan)(yan)山(shan)的標志(zhi),凡來游(you)山(shan)者莫不在此留影(ying)紀念。靈巖(yan)(yan)塔又稱多(duo)寶塔,高34米,7級(ji)(ji)8面(mian),磚木結(jie)構、樓閣式。游(you)人(ren)可拾級(ji)(ji)登塔,極目遠(yuan)眺姑蘇景(jing)色。塔南(nan)有鐘樓,樓高15.3米,為兩層(ceng)木構。上懸大鐘,下置地藏佛像。
靈巖山(shan)(shan)寺西(xi)部以(yi)花(hua)(hua)園為主,俗稱(cheng)山(shan)(shan)頂花(hua)(hua)園。園內浣花(hua)(hua)池相(xiang)傳(chuan)(chuan)西(xi)施(shi)(shi)于(yu)此(ci)泛舟采蓮(lian)。池西(xi)有(you)石城,即山(shan)(shan)顛(dian)圍墻,相(xiang)傳(chuan)(chuan)為吳王闔閭所筑,以(yi)石砌(qi)成冰紋形(xing)。玩月池曾供(gong)西(xi)施(shi)(shi)玩月。吳王井(jing)(jing)呈圓形(xing),也為吳宮遺井(jing)(jing),曾供(gong)西(xi)施(shi)(shi)照(zhao)容。智(zhi)積井(jing)(jing)為八角形(xing),因是梁代智(zhi)積和(he)尚修浚,故名。井(jing)(jing)中泉(quan)水甘例,煮(zhu)茗甚佳。井(jing)(jing)北砌(qi)有(you)假山(shan)(shan),上有(you)“長(chang)壽亭”,傳(chuan)(chuan)為西(xi)施(shi)(shi)梳妝之(zhi)所。靈巖山(shan)(shan)的最(zui)高(gao)處位于(yu)靈巖寺之(zhi)西(xi)的琴臺(tai),相(xiang)傳(chuan)(chuan)西(xi)施(shi)(shi)操琴于(yu)此(ci)。
靈巖山(shan)南(nan)有(you)采(cai)香(xiang)涇,專為西(xi)施去香(xiang)山(shan)采(cai)種(zhong)香(xiang)草之用,傳(chuan)說(shuo)是依據(ju)吳王一(yi)箭(jian)所射的方向而開鑿,所以又叫“一(yi)箭(jian)河”。山(shan)西(xi)南(nan)麓有(you)韓(han)世忠(zhong)墓(mu)(mu)。南(nan)宋抗金名將韓(han)世忠(zhong)和夫人梁紅玉合葬于此,墓(mu)(mu)碑巨大(da),碑文長達13000余字。靈巖山(shan)南(nan)麓香(xiang)水(shui)溪北(bei),百步小浜石橋東(dong)有(you)清初詩人張永夫之墓(mu)(mu)。
靈巖山(shan)位于(yu)吳中(zhong)區木瀆鎮西北(bei),北(bei)距天平山(shan)2公里。
從蘇州火車站出發(fa),乘坐游4線公交車,到達(da)底站木(mu)瀆嚴(yan)家花園,向前步(bu)行500米,到三岔路(lu)口往左前步(bu)行300米到達(da)靈巖山(shan)大(da)門口。
從吳(wu)中汽車站(zhan)(zhan) 約(yue)步行(xing)404米(mi)到石湖東路(lu)站(zhan)(zhan)地鐵(tie)站(zhan)(zhan), 乘坐(zuo)(zuo)地鐵(tie)2號線經過8站(zhan)(zhan),在(zai)廣濟南(nan)路(lu)站(zhan)(zhan)下車 ,站(zhan)(zhan)內換乘地鐵(tie)1號線, 乘坐(zuo)(zuo)地鐵(tie)1號線經過9站(zhan)(zhan),在(zai)木瀆(du)(du)站(zhan)(zhan)下車 約(yue)步行(xing)32米(mi)到木瀆(du)(du)換乘樞紐站(zhan)(zhan), 乘坐(zuo)(zuo)668路(lu)經過5站(zhan)(zhan),在(zai)方家橋下車 ,約(yue)步行(xing)188米(mi)到靈巖山 ,便到達終(zhong)點靈巖山。
從京滬高(gao)鐵蘇州北站(zhan)(zhan)步(bu)(bu)(bu)行(xing)約150米(mi),到(dao)達(da)高(gao)鐵蘇州北站(zhan)(zhan),乘坐(zuo)地鐵2號(hao)(hao)線,經(jing)(jing)過(guo)(guo)12站(zhan)(zhan), 到(dao)達(da)廣濟南路站(zhan)(zhan),步(bu)(bu)(bu)行(xing)約80米(mi),換乘地鐵1號(hao)(hao)線,乘坐(zuo)地鐵1號(hao)(hao)線,經(jing)(jing)過(guo)(guo)9站(zhan)(zhan), 到(dao)達(da)木瀆站(zhan)(zhan),步(bu)(bu)(bu)行(xing)約240米(mi),到(dao)達(da)木瀆換乘樞紐站(zhan)(zhan),乘坐(zuo)583路,經(jing)(jing)過(guo)(guo)4站(zhan)(zhan), 到(dao)達(da)靈巖山東站(zhan)(zhan)(也(ye)可乘坐(zuo)668路、507路、621路),步(bu)(bu)(bu)行(xing)約40米(mi),到(dao)達(da)靈巖山首末站(zhan)(zhan)。
北西走向,長(chang)2.3公里(li),寬1.2公里(li),海拔182米。靈(ling)巖(yan)(yan)山(shan)山(shan)體(ti)由花崗巖(yan)(yan)構(gou)成,巖(yan)(yan)石球狀風化明顯。
山(shan)多(duo)奇(qi)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),狀如(ru)靈(ling)(ling)芝,故名;遠望(wang)山(shan)勢右旋似(si)巨象(xiang)回顧(gu),亦(yi)稱象(xiang)山(shan);山(shan)西(xi)麓出產板巖是(shi)蘇州工藝品(pin)(pin)——藏(zang)書靈(ling)(ling)巖山(shan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)硯(yan)(yan)(俗(su)稱澄泥硯(yan)(yan))等石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)雕產品(pin)(pin)的料石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),又稱硯(yan)(yan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)山(shan);山(shan)南峭壁如(ru)城,故又名石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)城山(shan);因山(shan)南有石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)射堋、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓(gu),亦(yi)稱石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓(gu)山(shan)。北宋(song)《吳郡(jun)圖經續記》:“硯(yan)(yan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)山(shan),在吳縣西(xi)二(er)十一里。山(shan)西(xi)有石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓(gu),亦(yi)名石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓(gu)山(shan)。……山(shan)相連屬,有村(cun)。其山(shan)出石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),可(ke)以為硯(yan)(yan),蓋硯(yan)(yan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)之名不虛也。”
靈(ling)巖(yan)山怪石(shi)嶙峋(xun),松林滿山,殿(dian)宇雄(xiong)偉,古塔(ta)(ta)聳立,尤多吳宮遺跡(ji),為蘇州旅游勝地。沿山路向上,可見一徑穿(chuan)亭、蒼翠迎人、落紅(hong)夕照、塔(ta)(ta)院松風、醉僧待渡(du)、越女(nv)遺蹤、太湖在(zai)望、箭(jian)涇采香、秀峰古剎、靈(ling)巖(yan)塔(ta)(ta)影、蕭(xiao)寺(si)鐘(zhong)聲、萬家燈(deng)火、山管擁翠、吳宮遺址、山頂花園、修廊響屟、琴臺(tai)浴暉、蘄岳同輝等靈(ling)巖(yan)十八景。山頂花園內有(you)方(fang)形玩花池(chi),一名浣(huan)花池(chi)。玩月池(chi)旁假山上有(you)長壽亭,相傳(chuan)為西(xi)施梳妝臺(tai)遺址。亭西(xi)有(you)石(shi)墻,相傳(chuan)是(shi)春秋時期館娃宮宮墻遺跡(ji)。