一、買什么材質的靴子好
每(mei)種材質都有自(zi)己(ji)的優(you)點和缺點,接下來(lai)將簡(jian)單(dan)介(jie)紹:
1、牛皮
分為(wei)黃牛(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)、水牛(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)等(deng),一般黃牛(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)的強度(du)優(you)于(yu)水牛(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)。根據牛(niu)(niu)(niu)的年(nian)齡牛(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)又(you)可分為(wei)胎牛(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)、小(xiao)牛(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)、中牛(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)、大牛(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi),一般牛(niu)(niu)(niu)的年(nian)齡越(yue)小(xiao)的皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)價(jia)格(ge)越(yue)貴(gui),檔次越(yue)高,但并不代表價(jia)格(ge)越(yue)高皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)強度(du)越(yue)好。牛(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)一般又(you)可分為(wei)頭(tou)層和二層,頭(tou)層一般用(yong)于(yu)制作皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)鞋鞋面,二層一般用(yong)于(yu)制作運動鞋、皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)鞋的墊(dian)腳。頭(tou)層牛(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)的價(jia)格(ge)遠遠高于(yu)二層牛(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)的價(jia)格(ge)。
2、羊皮
分為綿羊(yang)(yang)(yang)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)、山羊(yang)(yang)(yang)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)兩大類(lei)。一般山羊(yang)(yang)(yang)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)牢度(du)優于(yu)綿羊(yang)(yang)(yang)皮(pi)(pi)(pi),而柔軟度(du)及穿(chuan)著舒適(shi)性綿羊(yang)(yang)(yang)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)優于(yu)山羊(yang)(yang)(yang)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)。羊(yang)(yang)(yang)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)一般不按羊(yang)(yang)(yang)的年齡區(qu)分。
3、豬
一般在鞋面當中用的較少,在童鞋中相(xiang)對較(jiao)(jiao)多,豬(zhu)皮(pi)價(jia)(jia)格較(jiao)(jiao)低,一(yi)般(ban)在大人鞋當中用(yong)于制作里皮(pi)。豬(zhu)皮(pi)一(yi)般(ban)有(you)頭(tou)層和二層之分,頭(tou)層強度(du)較(jiao)(jiao)好,二層強度(du)較(jiao)(jiao)差,但頭(tou)層的(de)價(jia)(jia)格比二層貴大約(yue)五倍。
4、其它動物皮
例如鱷魚皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)、袋鼠皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)、鹿皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)、蜥蜴皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)、蛇(she)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)、珍(zhen)珠魚皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)、鴕鳥身(shen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)、鴕鳥腳皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)、青蛙皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi),以(yi)(yi)上動(dong)物皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)由于皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)源稀少,所(suo)以(yi)(yi)制作的鞋(xie)往往價格(ge)較高,但不代(dai)表這些(xie)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)料在穿(chuan)著的牢度方面很好。
二、靴子什么樣的穿著舒服
靴子穿(chuan)著(zhu)舒服主要從這六個方面考慮:
1、面料
鑒別(bie)皮(pi)鞋(xie)時(shi),應首先檢查鞋(xie)面(mian)材料,確(que)定(ding)面(mian)革類別(bie)。如使用(yong)“真皮(pi)”粒面(mian)層(ceng)未經修飾(shi),具有原(yuan)天然(ran)特征的(de)面(mian)革:牛皮(pi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)孔花眼(yan)(yan)碎小,不規則而較均(jun)勻(yun);山(shan)羊皮(pi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)孔眼(yan)(yan)一排(pai)排(pai)呈“瓦狀”;豬皮(pi)三孔一堆,呈品字分布(bu)。黃牛皮(pi)組織纖維細(xi)致,水(shui)牛皮(pi)粗糙,毛(mao)(mao)(mao)孔眼(yan)(yan)粗大。
對于粒面層經修飾(shi)失去原有特征的(de),應根據加工(gong)工(gong)藝,仔細分類鑒(jian)別。
用(yong)苯胺涂飾(shi)的(de)稱苯胺革(ge),特征是表(biao)(biao)(biao)層(ceng)(ceng)有晶瑩亮光,光很(hen)亮,不刺眼,無塑料感(gan)。天然(ran)皮革(ge)熟制成(cheng)(cheng)革(ge),牛皮一般在5~6mm厚,制鞋要用(yong)片皮機分成(cheng)(cheng)兩層(ceng)(ceng),表(biao)(biao)(biao)層(ceng)(ceng)是粒面(mian)層(ceng)(ceng),組(zu)織(zhi)纖(xian)維細致緊密,光滑美觀,強(qiang)度、耐磨性都好,里層(ceng)(ceng)是絨面(mian)層(ceng)(ceng),纖(xian)維粗、間隙(xi)大,表(biao)(biao)(biao)面(mian)有絨毛。頭層(ceng)(ceng)革(ge)比二層(ceng)(ceng)革(ge)表(biao)(biao)(biao)面(mian)光滑平展。
二(er)(er)層(ceng)(ceng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)略顯粗糙,二(er)(er)層(ceng)(ceng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)經(jing)涂(tu)(tu)飾、移膜(mo)(mo)或貼膜(mo)(mo)可(ke)(ke)使表(biao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)看不(bu)出(chu)粗糙,但移膜(mo)(mo)革(ge)(ge)(ge)耐(nai)低(di)溫(wen)性差(cha),溫(wen)度低(di)時易(yi)發生褶皺。牛(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)二(er)(er)層(ceng)(ceng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)平展,壓(ya)花(hua)(hua)后(hou)(hou)無(wu)明顯缺陷(xian),而(er)豬皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)二(er)(er)層(ceng)(ceng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)往往隱約可(ke)(ke)見(jian)三個一堆的(de)毛(mao)孔眼(yan),該處光(guang)(guang)澤發暗。區(qu)分修面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge)和正面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge)時要注意,修面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)破壞了(le)原有(you)的(de)粒面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)層(ceng)(ceng),然后(hou)(hou)壓(ya)的(de)花(hua)(hua)紋(wen),花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)種(zhong)類(lei)可(ke)(ke)仿(fang)牛(niu)、羊(yang)、豬皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)等,但花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)無(wu)毛(mao)孔眼(yan),花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)是(shi)浮在皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)表(biao)層(ceng)(ceng)上(shang),而(er)正面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge)毛(mao)孔眼(yan)是(shi)存在的(de),仔細觀(guan)察可(ke)(ke)以(yi)辨認出(chu)來(lai)。人造(zao)(zao)(zao)革(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)在布底(di)基上(shang)涂(tu)(tu)飾了(le)一層(ceng)(ceng)有(you)機(ji)材(cai)(cai)料(liao)(liao),分薄(仿(fang)羊(yang)革(ge)(ge)(ge))、厚(上(shang)涂(tu)(tu)發泡有(you)機(ji)材(cai)(cai)料(liao)(liao),再(zai)壓(ya)上(shang)花(hua)(hua)紋(wen))兩(liang)型,多(duo)用(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)女鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)、童鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)。合(he)(he)成(cheng)(cheng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)用(yong)有(you)機(ji)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)壓(ya)制后(hou)(hou),加上(shang)涂(tu)(tu)飾層(ceng)(ceng)壓(ya)花(hua)(hua)后(hou)(hou)制成(cheng)(cheng)的(de)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge),多(duo)用(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)涼(liang)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)。再(zai)生革(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)將皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)渣、皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)磨碎,經(jing)高(gao)壓(ya)用(yong)粘合(he)(he)劑粘合(he)(he),形成(cheng)(cheng)片狀,然后(hou)(hou)經(jing)片皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)機(ji)片到(dao)需要厚度,再(zai)進行(xing)涂(tu)(tu)飾,使它(ta)具(ju)有(you)一定皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)革(ge)(ge)(ge)特性,大量(liang)用(yong)于(yu)(yu)(yu)箱包皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)件(jian),少量(liang)用(yong)來(lai)制鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)。區(qu)別真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)和人造(zao)(zao)(zao)材(cai)(cai)料(liao)(liao)時先看外(wai)觀(guan),真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)無(wu)底(di)基,人造(zao)(zao)(zao)材(cai)(cai)料(liao)(liao)有(you)底(di)基。再(zai)用(yong)手摸,人造(zao)(zao)(zao)材(cai)(cai)料(liao)(liao)塑(su)料(liao)(liao)感非常(chang)強(qiang),光(guang)(guang)澤亮(liang),冬天(tian)手摸有(you)冷涼(liang)感,真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)光(guang)(guang)滑手摸無(wu)冷涼(liang)感。用(yong)拇(mu)指(zhi)壓(ya)成(cheng)(cheng)品前面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)較軟部分,在拇(mu)指(zhi)周圍真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)會(hui)出(chu)現(xian)許(xu)多(duo)碎小、均勻花(hua)(hua)紋(wen),拇(mu)指(zhi)抬(tai)開(kai),花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)消失(shi),而(er)人造(zao)(zao)(zao)?材(cai)(cai)料(liao)(liao)可(ke)(ke)能沒有(you)花(hua)(hua)紋(wen),也可(ke)(ke)能會(hui)出(chu)現(xian)粗大紋(wen)路,拇(mu)指(zhi)抬(tai)開(kai),花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)并不(bu)消失(shi),說明材(cai)(cai)料(liao)(liao)表(biao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)粒面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)層(ceng)(ceng)和下(xia)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)網狀層(ceng)(ceng)已經(jing)脫(tuo)開(kai)了(le),用(yong)這種(zhong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)(liao)制成(cheng)(cheng)的(de)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)不(bu)合(he)(he)格。?鑒別真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)還是(shi)人造(zao)(zao)(zao)革(ge)(ge)(ge)還可(ke)(ke)以(yi)觀(guan)察鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)幫處的(de)截(jie)(jie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)截(jie)(jie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)不(bu)規則纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)組成(cheng)(cheng),用(yong)手指(zhi)甲(jia)刮下(xia)?碎皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)后(hou)(hou),截(jie)(jie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)無(wu)明顯變化,對于(yu)(yu)(yu)真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi),不(bu)同部位(wei)紋(wen)理(li)不(bu)規則,鼻嗅(xiu)聞(wen)有(you)腥臭味,而(er)人造(zao)(zao)(zao)?革(ge)(ge)(ge)嗅(xiu)聞(wen)有(you)塑(su)料(liao)(liao)或橡膠味,各部位(wei)紋(wen)理(li)規則一致。?貼膜(mo)(mo)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)革(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)在天(tian)然皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)革(ge)(ge)(ge)下(xia)層(ceng)(ceng)的(de)疏松肉(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)纖(xian)層(ceng)(ceng)上(shang)貼上(shang)人造(zao)(zao)(zao)的(de)表(biao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)層(ceng)(ceng),不(bu)能稱“真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)”,而(er)是(shi)以(yi)?天(tian)然皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)革(ge)(ge)(ge)里(li)層(ceng)(ceng)作底(di)基的(de)合(he)(he)成(cheng)(cheng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)。
2、鞋里、鉤心和鞋縫
皮鞋的(de)鞋里是為了防止延伸變(bian)形、改善腳面觸感而使用的(de)補(bu)強性(xing)材(cai)料(liao),要求鞋里材(cai)料(liao)有細膩的(de)觸感、優良的(de)透氣(qi)、吸濕、排濕性(xing)、不(bu)掉顏色。
中高檔皮(pi)鞋(xie)(xie)鞋(xie)(xie)里均采用天(tian)然皮(pi)革(ge)和棉布(bu)制作,鞋(xie)(xie)里是人造代用革(ge)的(de)(de)是低(di)檔產品。鞋(xie)(xie)里下面是塘底,檢查時將鞋(xie)(xie)折成90°角,不能(neng)開裂(lie),有(you)些偽劣鞋(xie)(xie)用不合格再生革(ge)塘底和紙板無紡布(bu)塘底,由于材料中乳膠含(han)量低(di),吸汗后(hou)就軟了(le),鞋(xie)(xie)底的(de)(de)勾心(xin)—在(zai)內(nei)底和外底間起橋梁(liang)作用的(de)(de)一(yi)條鋼板,就可(ke)能(neng)穿出塘底、扎傷腳(jiao)掌。鉤心(xin)的(de)(de)長度(du)(du)、寬度(du)(du)、彈性模等,受外力(li)后(hou)變形情(qing)況,國家標準(zhun)均有(you)規定(ding),還要有(you)一(yi)定(ding)彈性和鋼性。
材料(liao)要用65錳鋼(gang)、彈性極限載荷不小(xiao)于290N。檢查鞋(xie)幫(bang)縫(feng)合(he)線(xian)和鞋(xie)幫(bang)、鞋(xie)底(di)粘合(he)縫(feng)時,看是(shi)否(fou)有斷線(xian),縫(feng)合(he)是(shi)否(fou)規范整齊(qi)。對膠(jiao)粘皮鞋(xie),其(qi)幫(bang)底(di)結合(he)部位應粘合(he)平整無溝(gou)坎,無虛縫(feng)及開膠(jiao)現(xian)(xian)象(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)。膠(jiao)粘皮鞋(xie)剝離強度男(nan)鞋(xie)54N/cm,女鞋(xie)40~49N/cm,在(zai)試(shi)驗機上試(shi)樣出現(xian)(xian)初開膠(jiao)現(xian)(xian)象(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(即(ji)外(wai)(wai)幫(bang)、外(wai)(wai)底(di)粘合(he)縫(feng)出現(xian)(xian)變(bian)形、變(bian)色(se)現(xian)(xian)象(xiang)(xiang)(xiang))即(ji)為不合(he)格。消費者可以外(wai)(wai)掰(bai)或向里按(an)壓鞋(xie)幫(bang),如(ru)鞋(xie)幫(bang)與外(wai)(wai)底(di)粘合(he)處出現(xian)(xian)變(bian)色(se)或開膠(jiao)現(xian)(xian)象(xiang)(xiang)(xiang),表明粘接不良。
3、鞋底
皮鞋外底按原料分為橡膠、仿革、塑(su)料、橡塑(su)鞋底。
橡膠鞋(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)柔(rou)軟、彈(dan)(dan)性(xing)好,防(fang)滑(hua)、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)熱、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)寒(han)、分量稍(shao)重。仿革底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)輕便、硬挺、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)曲撓,但彈(dan)(dan)性(xing)差(cha)、不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)防(fang)滑(hua)。塑料(liao)(liao)(liao)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo),外(wai)(wai)(wai)觀平整光滑(hua),色彩鮮艷不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)防(fang)滑(hua),耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)寒(han)性(xing)差(cha),較重。橡塑鞋(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)兼具橡膠、塑料(liao)(liao)(liao)兩(liang)種材(cai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)優點,耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)、彈(dan)(dan)性(xing)好、柔(rou)軟,是目(mu)前中(zhong)高檔(dang)鞋(xie)首選的底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)料(liao)(liao)(liao)。鞋(xie)的外(wai)(wai)(wai)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)前腳掌著(zhu)力(li)(li)部分厚度(du)(du)(du)標準(zhun)(zhun),要(yao)求應(ying)達(da)到(dao)外(wai)(wai)(wai)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)總(zong)(zong)厚度(du)(du)(du)的2/3,檢(jian)驗(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)時要(yao)同時計算外(wai)(wai)(wai)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)著(zhu)力(li)(li)部分內外(wai)(wai)(wai)兩(liang)種花紋深度(du)(du)(du)相加起來,不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)得超(chao)過(guo)外(wai)(wai)(wai)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)總(zong)(zong)厚度(du)(du)(du)的1/3,如(ru)果達(da)不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)到(dao)這一(yi)條標準(zhun)(zhun),可以判定(ding)(ding)偽劣鞋(xie)。除厚度(du)(du)(du)外(wai)(wai)(wai),鞋(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)還應(ying)有耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)折(zhe)、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)性(xing)能。由于(yu)鞋(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)一(yi)般是由高分子材(cai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)制成,檢(jian)驗(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)時根(gen)據(ju)國家標準(zhun)(zhun)在(zai)專用耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)折(zhe)試(shi)驗(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)機(ji)上(shang)進(jin)(jin)行(xing)耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)折(zhe)性(xing)能測試(shi),鞋(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)受到(dao)一(yi)定(ding)(ding)頻率、一(yi)定(ding)(ding)角度(du)(du)(du)、一(yi)定(ding)(ding)次(ci)數屈(qu)折(zhe)后,按(an)不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)同品(pin)種,鞋(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)裂開長(chang)度(du)(du)(du)不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)大(da)于(yu)40、15、12mm。鞋(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)性(xing)檢(jian)驗(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)根(gen)據(ju)國家標準(zhun)(zhun),在(zai)專用耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)試(shi)驗(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)儀(yi)上(shang)進(jin)(jin)行(xing),使被檢(jian)鞋(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)與一(yi)個標準(zhun)(zhun)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)輪(lun)接觸,并受到(dao)一(yi)定(ding)(ding)壓(ya)力(li)(li),磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)輪(lun)以一(yi)定(ding)(ding)速度(du)(du)(du)旋(xuan)轉,經(jing)一(yi)定(ding)(ding)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)損(sun)時間,按(an)不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)同品(pin)種,磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)痕長(chang)度(du)(du)(du)不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)大(da)于(yu)16、12、10mm為合格(ge)。對(dui)旅游鞋(xie)的外(wai)(wai)(wai)中(zhong)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)和外(wai)(wai)(wai)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)之間要(yao)求一(yi)定(ding)(ding)粘(zhan)合強(qiang)度(du)(du)(du),測試(shi)時在(zai)萬能材(cai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)試(shi)驗(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)機(ji)或拉(la)力(li)(li)?試(shi)驗(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)機(ji)上(shang)進(jin)(jin)行(xing),粘(zhan)合強(qiang)度(du)(du)(du)不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)小于(yu)20N/cm為合格(ge)。
4、后跟
將(jiang)(jiang)鞋固定(ding)后(hou)將(jiang)(jiang)跟(gen)(gen)夾住(zhu),用拉力機拉,看能經受多大(da)拉力。鞋的(de)(de)后(hou)跟(gen)(gen)標準規定(ding),在直觀檢(jian)驗時,先(xian)用手掰(bai)后(hou)跟(gen)(gen),觀察子口(kou)(外幫和后(hou)跟(gen)(gen)連接的(de)(de)那個(ge)口(kou))變形(xing)(xing)。如果變形(xing)(xing)大(da),后(hou)跟(gen)(gen)可能有(you)問題,再揭下鞋墊,看后(hou)跟(gen)(gen)安裝。4cm以上高跟(gen)(gen),必須有(you)一根(gen)木(mu)螺絲固定(ding),鞋跟(gen)(gen)的(de)(de)整個(ge)牢度(du)就是(shi)靠里面的(de)(de)木(mu)螺絲和幾(ji)個(ge)木(mu)釘來(lai)保證。木(mu)跟(gen)(gen)材質要(yao)好,木(mu)螺絲穿進不能劈裂,否則輕掰(bai)后(hou)跟(gen)(gen)就能觀察到(dao)子口(kou)變形(xing)(xing)或后(hou)跟(gen)(gen)松(song)動(dong)。
5、外形
將(jiang)鞋隨意平放于(yu)柜(ju)面或(huo)玻(bo)璃板上,查看鞋是否平穩。
當(dang)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)置放于桌面(mian)上(shang)時,應立(li)即停止左(zuo)右晃(huang)動,從鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)尖朝(chao)后看(kan),鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)底內(nei)外(wai)邊沿(yan)距離桌面(mian)翹(qiao)起的尺寸,應該是差別不大(da),以(yi)(yi)保持平衡一致(zhi)為(wei)好(hao)(hao)。鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)的后跟上(shang)下要(yao)豎直,以(yi)(yi)不向外(wai)側或(huo)內(nei)側傾(qing)斜為(wei)好(hao)(hao)。第三,從上(shang)朝(chao)下俯視鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)面(mian),看(kan)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)面(mian)部(bu)件的對(dui)稱性(xing)以(yi)(yi)及鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)的輪(lun)廓(kuo)是否變形,以(yi)(yi)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)尖和后跟中點(dian)之間的直線為(wei)對(dui)稱軸線為(wei)好(hao)(hao),看(kan)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)面(mian)上(shang)各部(bu)件是否對(dui)稱,以(yi)(yi)內(nei)外(wai)相互對(dui)稱不向前(qian)向后挪(nuo)位為(wei)好(hao)(hao)。鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)輪(lun)廓(kuo)線應略朝(chao)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)內(nei)抱攏,平滑圓順者為(wei)好(hao)(hao),扭曲成荷葉(xie)形的為(wei)劣質鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)。
鞋(xie)的外觀(guan)檢查,還應(ying)(ying)注意幫(bang)面不允許有明(ming)顯傷殘、松面、涂飾層脫落、開裂和變色等現象。鞋(xie)的整體結(jie)構(gou)要(yao)端正(zheng)、平伏、鞋(xie)內不露釘(ding)尖,兩只鞋(xie)的相同部分應(ying)(ying)左右對稱,鞋(xie)底硬(ying)度、顏色、結(jie)構(gou)均應(ying)(ying)一致(zhi),前幫(bang)長(chang)度、后幫(bang)高度都不應(ying)(ying)有明(ming)顯差異。兩只鞋(xie)幫(bang)、底均應(ying)(ying)結(jie)合緊密,幫(bang)面上不能有明(ming)顯皺褶。
6、手試
用手觸(chu)摸鞋的(de)內腔,看(kan)鞋里是否有(you)凹凸(tu)(tu)不(bu)(bu)平現(xian)象(xiang)。凡是能接觸(chu)腳(jiao)的(de)地方(fang)不(bu)(bu)能凹凸(tu)(tu)不(bu)(bu)平,不(bu)(bu)然腳(jiao)會起泡,且(qie)一(yi)般情(qing)況下(xia)鞋內必須有(you)鞋墊(dian)。鞋墊(dian)可以(yi)保持鞋內清潔,且(qie)覆蓋內底(di)上極(ji)個別不(bu)(bu)平釘眼。一(yi)般情(qing)況下(xia),男鞋為半截鞋墊(dian),女鞋應是整體鞋墊(dian)。再用手掐鞋幫后跟部位,看(kan)是否硬(ying)(ying)挺而有(you)彈性,不(bu)(bu)能過硬(ying)(ying),否則傷及腳(jiao)踝。
鞋(xie)的(de)內底(di)是鞋(xie)的(de)軀干與(yu)骨架,用(yong)力按壓(ya)腰當內底(di),以(yi)紋絲不(bu)動為好。用(yong)食指(zhi)的(de)指(zhi)尖朝下接觸鞋(xie)的(de)內底(di),讓食指(zhi)靠近(jin)外(wai)踝部的(de)鞋(xie)幫(bang),看食指(zhi)的(de)第二指(zhi)關節線是否與(yu)外(wai)踝幫(bang)高度(du)一致。
一般生(sheng)活用(yong)(yong)鞋,社(she)交禮儀鞋、時(shi)裝鞋以(yi)略高(gao)于食(shi)指(zhi)(zhi)第二指(zhi)(zhi)關(guan)節(jie)線為好,低腰(yao)運動鞋和(he)休閑(xian)鞋的(de)后幫上均為軟口的(de)結(jie)構,其外踝幫高(gao)可以(yi)略高(gao)于食(shi)指(zhi)(zhi)第二指(zhi)(zhi)關(guan)節(jie)線。用(yong)(yong)中指(zhi)(zhi)指(zhi)(zhi)尖插入前(qian)尖鞋底下(xia)面,查(cha)看前(qian)蹺高(gao)度(du)是(shi)否合(he)適。當鞋尖的(de)翹頭(tou)正好夠中指(zhi)(zhi)的(de)指(zhi)(zhi)肚(du)厚度(du)時(shi),表明鞋尖的(de)前(qian)蹺正合(he)格。鞋尖的(de)前(qian)蹺過大時(shi),平穩度(du)降(jiang)低。