簡介
提到包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)子(zi),長沙人必稱“德(de)(de)園(yuan)(yuan)”。德(de)(de)園(yuan)(yuan)始建(jian)(jian)于清光緒年(nian)間(jian),初為一譚(tan)姓(xing)業主(譚(tan)盛德(de)(de))在八角亭附近開的一家夫妻店,取《左傳(chuan)》中(zhong)“有德(de)(de)則樂,樂則能久”之意,名(ming)(ming)(ming)(ming)之“德(de)(de)園(yuan)(yuan)”。民國(guo)初年(nian),幾(ji)位失業官廚集資(zi)入伙,盤下幾(ji)經易手卻無建(jian)(jian)樹(shu)的德(de)(de)園(yuan)(yuan),遷(qian)店于黃興路(lu)樊西巷口,以官府菜(cai)、點(dian)(dian)招徠(lai)食(shi)客(ke)。因菜(cai)肴制作總(zong)有海味(wei)鮮貨等上乘余料留下,為免浪(lang)費,故將其(qi)剁碎,拌人包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)點(dian)(dian)餡芯,誰知這競使(shi)他們的包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)點(dian)(dian)風味(wei)異人,倍受垂青。從此,德(de)(de)園(yuan)(yuan)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)子(zi)大振名(ming)(ming)(ming)(ming)聲,遂有“出籠熱噴噴,白色皮喧松,玫瑰甜香美,香菇爽(shuang)鮮嫩”的民謠之贊。長沙“文夕(xi)”大火后,原(yuan)班部分(fen)師(shi)(shi)傅重(zhong)新(xin)集資(zi),再度建(jian)(jian)店,取名(ming)(ming)(ming)(ming)德(de)(de)園(yuan)(yuan)茶館(guan),繼續經營(ying)飯菜(cai)、包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)點(dian)(dian),并逐步(bu)形成(cheng)馳名(ming)(ming)(ming)(ming)長沙的“八大名(ming)(ming)(ming)(ming)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)”。“八大名(ming)(ming)(ming)(ming)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)”為:玫瑰白糖包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)、冬(dong)菇鮮肉(rou)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)、白糖鹽菜(cai)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)、水晶白糖包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)、麻茸包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)、金鉤鮮肉(rou)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)、瑤(yao)柱鮮肉(rou)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)、叉燒包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)。長沙解放(fang)后,德(de)(de)園(yuan)(yuan)茶館(guan)獲(huo)得了新(xin)生(sheng),曾薈萃一批烹任名(ming)(ming)(ming)(ming)師(shi)(shi)和白案(an)高手,使(shi)德(de)(de)園(yuan)(yuan)的美食(shi)形成(cheng)五大系(xi)列,300個品種。
民謠
老長(chang)(chang)沙(sha)都(dou)知(zhi)道(dao)這(zhe)么一首(shou)民謠:“楊裕興的(de)面,徐長(chang)(chang)興的(de)鴨,德園(yuan)的(de)包子真好(hao)呷。”百(bai)年老店德園(yuan)位于(yu)長(chang)(chang)沙(sha)的(de)繁華(hua)地帶,每天早上(shang),買包子的(de)人排成長(chang)(chang)龍,在(zai)店門前延伸折曲,也算(suan)是長(chang)(chang)沙(sha)街頭一景。