簡介
位于山(shan)東(dong)(dong)省泰(tai)(tai)安(an)市(shi)城區(qu)(qu)北,與濟(ji)南市(shi)接界地區(qu)(qu)。泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)居中國五岳(泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)、崇山(shan)、華山(shan)、恒(heng)山(shan)、衡山(shan))之首,號稱東(dong)(dong)岳。山(shan)上山(shan)下文物古(gu)跡遍布,有東(dong)(dong)方文物寶庫(ku)之稱。寺廟宮觀古(gu)建筑(zhu)多(duo)達(da)30多(duo)座。主(zhu)要有泰(tai)(tai)安(an)城區(qu)(qu)岱廟、遙參亭,泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)麓的(de)岱宗坊、紅門(men)宮,山(shan)腰王母(池)殿(dian)、普照寺、斗母宮、中天(tian)門(men),岱頂南天(tian)門(men)、天(tian)街坊、碧霞祠,玉皇(頂)廟,泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)西北靈巖寺、無極廟等。
其(qi)中,岱廟是(shi)歷代帝王泰山(shan)(shan)封禪(chan)大典之地,創建于秦(qin)漢(han),唐(tang)(tang)宋(song)金元至明清屢有(you)修建,北(bei)宋(song)宣和年間(1119-1125年)泰山(shan)(shan)上下(xia)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、寢(qin)、堂、閣(ge)、亭(ting)、館、樓(lou)、觀、廊(lang)、廡等有(you)813楹。現有(you)主建筑(zhu)天貺殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)與北(bei)京太和殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、曲阜大成殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)同稱中國三大古宮(gong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。山(shan)(shan)上碧霞祠始建于宋(song),明清均有(you)增(zeng)修,成為規模宏大的高山(shan)(shan)古建筑(zhu)。山(shan)(shan)陰靈巖寺在濟南長清區,盛于唐(tang)(tang)宋(song),曾有(you)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)閣(ge)達(da)40多(duo)座、禪(chan)房500多(duo)間。寺內千佛殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)彩塑羅漢(han)有(you)“海內第一名塑”之譽。
泰山(shan)風(feng)景名勝(sheng)以(yi)雄偉著稱,海(hai)拔1545米,地質歷史平局年齡30億年以(yi)上,山(shan)體(ti)分三層臺階式地質結構,猶如登(deng)天臺階,坐(zuo)北朝南,山(shan)體(ti)通體(ti)打開(kai),一(yi)(yi)(yi)眼望遍全山(shan),如佛(fo)似(si)坐(zuo)。一(yi)(yi)(yi)座主峰玉(yu)(yu)皇(huang)頂,直通云霄。一(yi)(yi)(yi)條(tiao)10.1公(gong)里的登(deng)封盤(pan)路御道,一(yi)(yi)(yi)線通線。泰山(shan)主峰為中(zhong)心,呈放射狀分布,由自然景觀與人(ren)文景觀融合而成(cheng)(cheng)。從祭(ji)地經帝王行宮的岱廟,到封天的玉(yu)(yu)皇(huang)頂,構成(cheng)(cheng)長達(da)十公(gong)里的地府——人(ren)間——天堂(tang)的一(yi)(yi)(yi)條(tiao)軸線。
一路攀(pan)登,體(ti)會祖先,感(gan)受(shou)歷(li)史,登高必自!穿過秦(qin)漢始建的(de)岱廟,走過孔子(zi)登臨出,穿紅門(men),過明(ming)代萬(wan)仙(xian)樓(lou),看(kan)北齊經石(shi)峪(yu)-金剛經石(shi)刻,越中(zhong)天(tian)門(men),看(kan)望人(ren)迎客松(song)(song),走龍(long)門(men),過升仙(xian)坊(fang),攀(pan)登十(shi)八盤(pan),逛天(tian)街,游宋(song)朝碧霞祠,閱(yue)唐玄宗大觀峰,登觀日峰望海(hai)石(shi),后山(shan)天(tian)燭峰看(kan)-姊妹(mei)松(song)(song),堯觀頂,拜高山(shan)第一孔子(zi)廟,回看(kan)五岳獨(du)尊,登臨敕修玉(yu)皇(huang)頂,看(kan)秦(qin)皇(huang)漢武(wu)無字碑,古封禪臺。看(kan)玉(yu)皇(huang)極(ji)頂那(nei)對(dui)聯(lian):“地到無邊天(tian)做岸,山(shan)登絕(jue)頂人(ren)為峰!”遙望黃河,看(kan)東方云海(hai)日出,祈福國泰民(min)安!感(gan)受(shou)泰山(shan)天(tian)下雄!一覽眾(zhong)山(shan)小!
泰山盤道古建筑群
據文獻(xian)記載,泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)盤(pan)(pan)路辟建(jian)(jian)于(yu)漢(han)代,稱為(wei)(wei)環道,歷代重修,現存(cun)(cun)大部為(wei)(wei)明代建(jian)(jian)。泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)盤(pan)(pan)路沿途(tu)的古建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)群,或(huo)創(chuang)建(jian)(jian)于(yu)漢(han)魏或(huo)創(chuang)建(jian)(jian)于(yu)唐宋,元(yuan)、明、清續建(jian)(jian),現存(cun)(cun)少部分(fen)為(wei)(wei)明代建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)風格(ge),大部分(fen)為(wei)(wei)清代建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)風格(ge),泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)盤(pan)(pan)道系(xi)古代帝(di)(di)王封(feng)禪泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)時(shi)舉行祭(ji)天(tian)儀式時(shi)所修建(jian)(jian)的登(deng)山(shan)(shan)御(yu)道,古建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)群多是歷代帝(di)(di)王封(feng)禪或(huo)祭(ji)祀泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)時(shi)的齋沐、駐蹕之所。泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)中路全長9公里(li)(li),盤(pan)(pan)道占8公里(li)(li)。古建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)多跨盤(pan)(pan)道而(er)建(jian)(jian)或(huo)構筑(zhu)(zhu)于(yu)盤(pan)(pan)道之側。泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)上下較重要的古建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)群有關帝(di)(di)廟、王母池、紅門、斗母宮(gong)、壺天(tian)閣、南(nan)天(tian)門、碧霞祠、玉(yu)皇頂(ding)、后(hou)石(shi)塢、普照寺、靈應宮(gong)、萬仙樓、三(san)官廟、五松亭、孔子(zi)廟、青帝(di)(di)宮(gong)、三(san)陽觀、五賢(xian)祠、烈士祠等。此外,沿途(tu)還有眾(zhong)多的亭、坊(fang)、橋等單體石(shi)質建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)。
泰山盤道古建筑群歷史沿革
漢光武帝(di)建武中元(yuan)元(yuan)年(公元(yuan)56年)辟建泰(tai)山盤道,稱為環(huan)道。
漢(han)獻帝(di)建安十一年(公(gong)元207年)前已(yi)有王母(mu)廬、岱頂五帝(di)觀等(deng)建筑。
南北朝(chao)時期(qi)(公元(yuan)420——589年)創建普照寺。
大中祥符元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1008年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))宋(song)真宗封禪(chan)泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)時(shi)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)玉女祠(ci)(即今碧霞祠(ci))。宋(song)皇佑五(wu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1053年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))重(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)王母池。元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)代中統元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1260年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))道(dao)士張志純(chun)創建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)南天門(men)(men)、摩空閣(ge)(ge)。明初(chu)創建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)關帝(di)廟(miao)(miao),重(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)紅門(men)(men)宮、斗母宮、三官廟(miao)(miao)、壺(hu)天閣(ge)(ge)、元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)君廟(miao)(miao)、依(yi)山(shan)(shan)亭(ting)、金星(xing)亭(ting)、三大士殿、五(wu)松亭(ting)、青帝(di)宮。明成化、弘治、嘉靖年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)對(dui)泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)古建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)及(ji)泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)盤(pan)路進行了(le)(le)拓建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)重(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)。明嘉靖年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)十(shi)一(yi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1532年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))改(gai)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)三賢(xian)祠(ci)。明萬(wan)(wan)(wan)歷十(shi)五(wu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1583年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))重(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)紅門(men)(men)宮、飛云閣(ge)(ge)、更衣亭(ting)、且(qie)止亭(ting)。萬(wan)(wan)(wan)歷十(shi)九年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1591年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)后石塢廟(miao)(miao)。萬(wan)(wan)(wan)歷四十(shi)八(ba)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1620年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)萬(wan)(wan)(wan)仙樓。萬(wan)(wan)(wan)歷年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1573——1620年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))創建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)孔子廟(miao)(miao)。明天啟六年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1626年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)紅門(men)(men)西院元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)君殿。清順治年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)對(dui)泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)古建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)進行全面修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。康熙年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1662年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)——1723年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))圣(sheng)祖(zu)玄燁登泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)祀奉(feng)山(shan)(shan)神、碧霞元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)君時(shi)重(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)盤(pan)路建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun)。乾(qian)隆年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1736——1796年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))重(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)盤(pan)路古建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun)。道(dao)光(guang)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)至(zhi)十(shi)五(wu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1821——1835年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))重(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)盤(pan)路古建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun),道(dao)光(guang)七(qi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1827年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)夢仙龕(kan)。清末(mo)及(ji)民國年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)又對(dui)泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)盤(pan)路古建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun)進行了(le)(le)多次整修(xiu)。
解放后,黨和政府非(fei)常重視(shi)泰山文物古跡的保護管理。分(fen)別于1956年(nian)(nian)、1959年(nian)(nian)、1978年(nian)(nian)、1984年(nian)(nian)、1994年(nian)(nian)、2000年(nian)(nian)對盤路及古建筑群進行了大規模整修。
1987年12月,聯合國教科文組織將泰(tai)山列為世界自然(ran)文化遺產(chan),泰(tai)山盤路古建筑(zhu)是其主要(yao)內容之一。
關帝廟
在岱宗坊(fang)北一(yi)里(li),泰山(shan)盤道起點處西(xi)側,是泰山(shan)中路的第(di)一(yi)組古建(jian)筑(zhu)。關(guan)帝廟(miao)(miao)東(dong)西(xi)寬(kuan)74米(mi)(mi)、南北長80米(mi)(mi),總(zong)面積(ji)5920平方米(mi)(mi)。分為東(dong)西(xi)兩(liang)部(bu)分。東(dong)為關(guan)帝廟(miao)(miao),西(xi)為山(shan)西(xi)會(hui)館(guan)。關(guan)帝廟(miao)(miao)由影壁、南山(shan)門(men)(戲樓)、拜棚、東(dong)西(xi)配殿(dian)(dian)、正殿(dian)(dian)后殿(dian)(dian)等成(cheng)。山(shan)西(xi)會(hui)館(guan)是山(shan)西(xi)客商祭祀(si)關(guan)帝的地方,包括正殿(dian)(dian)、左右(you)配殿(dian)(dian)等。關(guan)帝廟(miao)(miao)院內有“漢柏第(di)一(yi)”、唐槐等古樹名木。關(guan)帝廟(miao)(miao)創建(jian)于(yu)明初,清康(kang)熙、乾隆(long)、咸豐(feng)年間多次(ci)重修。
王母池
位于關帝廟(miao)東南300米處,整座院(yuan)落南北(bei)長101.4米,東西寬53米,總(zong)面積(ji)約5374.2平(ping)方米。
王(wang)(wang)(wang)母(mu)池廟(miao)由影壁、香(xiang)(xiang)火池、山(shan)(shan)門、王(wang)(wang)(wang)母(mu)池、王(wang)(wang)(wang)母(mu)殿(dian)、觀瀾(lan)亭(ting)、藥(yao)王(wang)(wang)(wang)殿(dian)、北斗殿(dian)、悅山(shan)(shan)亭(ting)、七真(zhen)殿(dian)和蓬萊閣(ge)等組成。每年(nian)陰歷三(san)月三(san),全國各地(di)的香(xiang)(xiang)客在此舉行廟(miao)會,慶賀王(wang)(wang)(wang)母(mu)圣誕。院內王(wang)(wang)(wang)母(mu)泉、王(wang)(wang)(wang)母(mu)池水清(qing)澈見底,常年(nian)不息,古柏(bo)參天(tian)交柯(ke),風(feng)景(jing)優美。院外有(you)虬在灣、呂祖洞、八仙橋(qiao)等文物(wu)古跡。
王母池漢(han)代稱王母廬,唐代稱瑤池。自元(yuan)至(zhi)清多(duo)次(ci)重(zhong)修(xiu)。
南天門(men)/泰山古建(jian)筑群(qun)
南天(tian)(tian)(tian)門(men)(men)又稱三(san)(san)天(tian)(tian)(tian)門(men)(men),在(zai)十八(ba)盤盡頭。十八(ba)盤兩(liang)側(ce)峭(qiao)崖(ya)對峙,東為(wei)飛龍(long)巖(yan),西為(wei)翔鳳嶺。南天(tian)(tian)(tian)門(men)(men)坐(zuo)落在(zai)兩(liang)嶺的(de)狹(xia)口之(zhi)上(shang),由下仰視(shi)猶(you)如(ru)天(tian)(tian)(tian)上(shang)宮闕(que),為(wei)跨盤道而(er)建的(de)城門(men)(men)樓式建筑。下層(ceng)拱形門(men)(men)洞題名(ming)是“南天(tian)(tian)(tian)門(men)(men)”,上(shang)層(ceng)題名(ming)“摩空閣”,兩(liang)側(ce)對聯(lian):“門(men)(men)辟九霄仰步(bu)三(san)(san)天(tian)(tian)(tian)勝跡,階崇萬級俯臨(lin)千嶂奇(qi)觀”,道出了該處(chu)之(zhi)形勝。
南(nan)天(tian)門(men)(men)北有(you)(you)唐代創(chuang)建(jian)(jian)的(de)三(san)靈侯(hou)殿(dian)(dian)(后更(geng)名關帝廟,今名“未了(le)軒”)及(ji)東西配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)。南(nan)天(tian)門(men)(men)西側(ce)石棚(peng)內壁有(you)(you)“天(tian)門(men)(men)銘(ming)”石碑(bei),元中統元年(公元1260年)杜仁(ren)杰撰(zhuan)文(wen)、嚴忠范書,記述(shu)了(le)張煉師創(chuang)建(jian)(jian)南(nan)天(tian)門(men)(men)的(de)經過。南(nan)天(tian)門(men)(men)下有(you)(you)升仙坊和(he)壽(shou)星亭。
碧霞祠
碧(bi)霞祠創建(jian)于(yu)宋真(zhen)(zhen)宗大(da)中祥符元年(1008),始稱“昭真(zhen)(zhen)祠”,金(jin)代稱“昭真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)”,明代改(gai)名“靈佑宮”,清乾隆三十(shi)五年(1770)重修(xiu),改(gai)今名。
碧霞祠由(you)照壁、金藏庫(火池)、南神(shen)門(men)(men)、東(dong)神(shen)門(men)(men)、西神(shen)門(men)(men)、歌舞樓、東(dong)西閣(ge)樓、鐘(zhong)鼓(gu)樓、大山門(men)(men)、東(dong)西御碑亭、香亭、東(dong)西配殿(dian)、大殿(dian)組(zu)成。
正殿九脊(ji)歇山頂(ding),供碧霞元君、眼光奶(nai)奶(nai)、送子娘娘及各二侍女銅(tong)像,原(yuan)為歷代帝王(wang)祭(ji)祀之所。殿頂(ding)螭(chi)吻、大脊(ji)、垂脊(ji)、垂獸、走獸、博脊(ji)、蓋瓦、檐頭上的(de)行龍等(deng)皆為銅(tong)鑄(zhu)(zhu),雕鑄(zhu)(zhu)的(de)鳳(feng)凰、纏枝花紋(wen)、八仙等(deng)紋(wen)飾生動(dong)精美(mei)。
香(xiang)亭(ting)(ting)內(nei)供碧霞元君(jun)、東配(pei)(pei)殿(dian)供眼光(guang)奶奶,西配(pei)(pei)殿(dian)供送子娘(niang)娘(niang),原為民間香(xiang)客(ke)祭拜之處。東西配(pei)(pei)殿(dian)的吻、脊、獸、蓋瓦等皆為鐵鑄(zhu)(大山門同(tong))。香(xiang)亭(ting)(ting)為黃(huang)琉璃瓦九脊重檐歇山頂。
院內有明嘉靖十九年(公元1540年)北京房山(shan)縣所(suo)獻的(de)“千斤鼎”銅鼎,明萬(wan)歷十七年(公元1589年)所(suo)鑄(zhu)的(de)萬(wan)歲樓,明萬(wan)歷四十三年(公元1615年)所(suo)鑄(zhu)的(de)“敕修泰(tai)山(shan)天(tian)仙金闕碑”銅碑,明天(tian)啟(qi)五年(公元1625年)所(suo)鑄(zhu)的(de)“欽(qin)修泰(tai)岳大功告成賜靈佑(you)宮金碑”銅碑。大山(shan)門內外有青龍、白虎、文曲、武(wu)曲四神像。
據文獻記載,此處(chu)漢代原有(you)石雕(diao)金童玉女(nv)像。宋(song)真宗大中祥符元(yuan)(yuan)年(nian)(公元(yuan)(yuan)1008年(nian))封(feng)禪泰山時,鑿龕雕(diao)玉女(nv)像,創建玉女(nv)祠,金改(gai)昭真觀,明(ming)洪武年(nian)間(jian)(jian)重修,成化、弘治、嘉靖(jing)年(nian)間(jian)(jian)拓建正(zheng)殿,施(shi)銅構件(jian),萬歷、天啟年(nian)間(jian)(jian)重修,清代亦多(duo)次重修。現(xian)存建筑保(bao)存了大量元(yuan)(yuan)明(ming)構件(jian)及其建筑風(feng)格(ge)。
明嘉靖、萬(wan)歷(li)、天啟諸帝(di)均(jun)遣官致(zhi)祭。清(qing)代康(kang)(kang)熙(xi)、乾(qian)隆皇帝(di)多次(ci)在此祭祀碧霞元君,東(dong)西御(yu)碑亭現存康(kang)(kang)熙(xi)、乾(qian)隆皇帝(di)漢白玉詩(shi)碑。
祠(ci)分前后(hou)兩院,正(zheng)(zheng)殿5間(jian),在北院,面(mian)闊24.7米,進深15.1米,通高(gao)13.7米,四(si)柱(zhu)七(qi)架梁,十(shi)一檁前后(hou)廊式,九脊(ji)歇山(shan)頂,四(si)角(jiao)施角(jiao)柱(zhu),檐(yan)(yan)柱(zhu)施斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong),柱(zhu)頭(tou)科,單杪雙(shuang)下昂六踩,斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)上(shang)(shang)(shang)承托挑尖梁頭(tou),平身(shen)科,正(zheng)(zheng)間(jian)、次間(jian)、梢間(jian)分別為(wei)6、5、4個。斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)上(shang)(shang)(shang)承托螞蚱(zha)頭(tou),角(jiao)科單翹重(zhong)昂七(qi)踩,轉角(jiao)斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)上(shang)(shang)(shang)承托寶(bao)瓶,歇山(shan)檐(yan)(yan)下及后(hou)檐(yan)(yan)下亦施斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong),形(xing)狀與(yu)前面(mian)相同(tong)。屋(wu)面(mian)瓦壟360條,象(xiang)征周天之數,為(wei)防高(gao)山(shan)大(da)風,明(ming)時蓋瓦均為(wei)鐵(tie)鑄,清初易為(wei)銅瓦。大(da)脊(ji)上(shang)(shang)(shang)飾雙(shuang)鳳(feng)纏(chan)枝花紋(wen),戧脊(ji)有六走(zou)獸和一個仙(xian)人,檐(yan)(yan)上(shang)(shang)(shang)瓦釘處飾立體(ti)走(zou)龍,均為(wei)銅鑄。殿內(nei)槽(cao)柱(zhu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)施四(si)柁隔架斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong),柱(zhu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)施井字(zi)形(xing)天花板(ban),正(zheng)(zheng)間(jian)內(nei)斗(dou)(dou)(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)相圍呈八角(jiao)形(xing)藻井,中間(jian)有浮雕盤(pan)龍戲珠。大(da)殿正(zheng)(zheng)間(jian)和兩次間(jian)均設石雕仰復蓮(lian)紋(wen)須(xu)彌座(zuo)神臺,供奉碧(bi)霞(xia)元君神像。大(da)殿建筑(zhu)雄偉華麗,是(shi)泰(tai)山(shan)僅次于岱廟天貺(kuang)殿的第(di)二大(da)建筑(zhu)。
縱觀碧霞祠整個建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群,由于(yu)地形限(xian)制,南(nan)北(bei)長(chang)70米(mi)(mi),東西寬僅36米(mi)(mi),總面積不過(guo)2500余平(ping)方米(mi)(mi),但是它給(gei)人的(de)(de)感覺卻森嚴(yan)宏大,毫不顯局(ju)促狹小,顯示了古代建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)者因勢而宜的(de)(de)高妙的(de)(de)建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)藝術水平(ping)和技巧。
碧(bi)(bi)霞(xia)祠(ci)(ci)選址于(yu)天(tian)(tian)街東(dong)端地勢陡然(ran)抬起(qi)之處,前(qian)院(yuan)設有(you)(you)(you)東(dong)、西(xi)、南3座高(gao)大(da)的(de)神門(men)。游(you)人(ren)一般自天(tian)(tian)街東(dong)來(lai),有(you)(you)(you)西(xi)神門(men)進祠(ci)(ci),而西(xi)神門(men)下是峭拔如十(shi)八(ba)盤的(de)百(bai)余(yu)級連(lian)續的(de)臺階,由此(ci)進得(de)祠(ci)(ci)來(lai),忽見樓臺嚴整(zheng),氣氛肅(su)穆(mu),同(tong)(tong)天(tian)(tian)街風情迥然(ran)不同(tong)(tong),人(ren)們首先(xian)感(gan)(gan)到了碧(bi)(bi)霞(xia)祠(ci)(ci)的(de)赫(he)赫(he)氣勢。東(dong)神門(men)與西(xi)神門(men)相通(tong),通(tong)往(wang)(wang)玉皇頂的(de)盤道就在前(qian)院(yuan)之中,且往(wang)(wang)南又(you)開有(you)(you)(you)南神門(men),人(ren)在此(ci)視野并未被封閉,因(yin)此(ci)小(xiao)的(de)空(kong)間便產生了大(da)的(de)空(kong)間的(de)感(gan)(gan)覺。而且北(bei)面(mian),碧(bi)(bi)霞(xia)祠(ci)(ci)山門(men)高(gao)高(gao)屹立(li),不進山門(men)仍不知祠(ci)(ci)內復有(you)(you)(you)何物,使人(ren)更生神秘之感(gan)(gan),猶覺此(ci)祠(ci)(ci)非(fei)同(tong)(tong)小(xiao)可。及至進到北(bei)院(yuan),大(da)殿之前(qian)有(you)(you)(you)九(jiu)脊重檐、黃(huang)琉璃蓋瓦的(de)香亭(ting)(ting)居(ju)中,亭(ting)(ting)兩側又(you)有(you)(you)(you)銅鑄(zhu)“金碑”,亭(ting)(ting)前(qian)又(you)有(you)(you)(you)千斤鼎(ding)、萬歲樓,令人(ren)目不暇接,愈加感(gan)(gan)到了這里的(de)不同(tong)(tong)尋常(chang)。而如果不如此(ci)布(bu)置(zhi),設若祠(ci)(ci)內空(kong)無(wu)(wu)一物,一覽無(wu)(wu)余(yu),區(qu)區(qu)300余(yu)平方米的(de)天(tian)(tian)井,又(you)怎能有(you)(you)(you)此(ci)等(deng)韻味與效果呢?
泰山碧霞祠建(jian)筑群以(yi)其高超(chao)的(de)(de)建(jian)筑藝術受到了建(jian)筑學界(jie)的(de)(de)高度稱贊,認為它是高山建(jian)筑中獨(du)具一(yi)格的(de)(de)神品。
泰山盤路
泰山盤路自關(guan)帝廟始,其(qi)北有“盤路起工處”碑。泰山盤路沿中溪達玉皇頂,是古代帝王(wang)登封泰山的(de)御道,總長度約9000米。
泰(tai)山形成(cheng)于太(tai)古代(dai)第(di)一次造山運(yun)動,從岱廟北到(dao)中天(tian)門、南天(tian)門形成(cheng)三(san)級(ji)斷層(ceng)逐級(ji)抬升的階(jie)梯(ti)狀。從關帝(di)廟到(dao)壺天(tian)閣(ge)為(wei)第(di)一級(ji),全長(chang)3323米,共有臺階(jie)267盤(pan)、1572級(ji),其余為(wei)平盤(pan),寬度(du)一般在(zai)4—6米左右,最寬處(chu)近8米。此段一般平緩上(shang)升,至壺天(tian)閣(ge)開始向上(shang)拔起抬高。該段多(duo)為(wei)亂石(shi)(shi)砌扶手墻(qiang),多(duo)數有壓頂石(shi)(shi)。斗母宮北的東西(xi)橋子(zi)(渡仙橋)至壺天(tian)閣(ge)段,俗稱柏洞,兩側(ce)扶手墻(qiang)為(wei)大塊條石(shi)(shi)對(dui)接(jie)而成(cheng)。臺階(jie)和(he)扶手墻(qiang)均保存了(le)明代(dai)整(zheng)修時(shi)的原物(wu)。
壺(hu)天(tian)閣(ge)至中(zhong)天(tian)門段,為(wei)泰山第二(er)斷層斜掀抬高帶,山勢(shi)峰(feng)回(hui)路轉,逐漸陡(dou)峭。壺(hu)天(tian)閣(ge)北為(wei)回(hui)馬嶺,其(qi)(qi)上(shang)盤道原(yuan)稱十二(er)連盤。從壺(hu)天(tian)閣(ge)至中(zhong)天(tian)門總(zong)長度680米,共(gong)有(you)臺階73盤,共(gong)計1223級。兩側扶手(shou)墻(qiang)為(wei)塊石壘砌(qi),其(qi)(qi)上(shang)均覆壓頂石。臺階和扶手(shou)墻(qiang)多為(wei)明代原(yuan)物。
從(cong)中天門到(dao)對松亭為泰(tai)山第三級(ji)抬升的(de)過渡(du)階段,有“快活三里”等平坦之路,也有短(duan)段陡盤(pan)(pan),如“三瞪眼”等。從(cong)對松亭向上(shang),山勢越來越陡,俗(su)稱三個(ge)“十八(ba)盤(pan)(pan)”,分為“慢(man)十八(ba)盤(pan)(pan)”、“不緊(jin)不慢(man)十八(ba)盤(pan)(pan)”、“緊(jin)十八(ba)盤(pan)(pan)”。從(cong)中天門到(dao)南天門總長度約2500米,共計有臺階219盤(pan)(pan)、3071級(ji),由于山勢驟然升起,緊(jin)十八(ba)盤(pan)(pan)的(de)臺階陡且密,有的(de)一盤(pan)(pan)達100級(ji)。兩側扶手(shou)墻均塊石筑帶壓頂石。
從(cong)南天(tian)門到玉皇頂(ding)總(zong)長度(du)(du)約(yue)1000米。天(tian)街比較平坦(tan),寬度(du)(du)一般(ban)為8米,最寬處10米多(duo)。從(cong)碧霞祠至玉皇頂(ding)逐步(bu)升高。此段(duan)共計(ji)有(you)臺階73盤(pan)、689級。玉皇頂(ding)到后石塢還有(you)明代古盤(pan)道201盤(pan),1091級臺階。兩側(ce)不設扶手墻,寬度(du)(du)在3米左右。