早古(gu)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)代時(shi)(距(ju)(ju)今(jin)5.7億(yi)年前(qian)(qian)(qian)~4.4億(yi)年前(qian)(qian)(qian)),雷(lei)州半(ban)島(dao)(dao)與海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)島(dao)(dao)地(di)區是一(yi)個沉(chen)(chen)降帶(dai)。加里東造山(shan)運動(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)使(shi)雷(lei)瓊(qiong)(qiong)地(di)區上升(sheng)(sheng)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)陸,形(xing)(xing)(xing)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)以東北(bei)方向(xiang)為主的(de)一(yi)系列斷裂褶皺帶(dai),使(shi)早古(gu)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)代沉(chen)(chen)積的(de)地(di)層發(fa)(fa)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)了(le)質(zhi)變。到晚古(gu)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)代(距(ju)(ju)今(jin)4.4億(yi)年前(qian)(qian)(qian)~2.3億(yi)年前(qian)(qian)(qian)),海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)島(dao)(dao)陸塊(kuai)相對穩定。但印支運動(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)又促使(shi)巖(yan)(yan)漿活動(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)強烈(lie),形(xing)(xing)(xing)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)島(dao)(dao)廣泛分(fen)布的(de)花崗巖(yan)(yan)體(ti),構成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)了(le)山(shan)地(di),也筑成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)了(le)海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)島(dao)(dao)的(de)基礎。后(hou)來(lai)的(de)燕山(shan)運動(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)和喜(xi)馬拉雅(ya)運動(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)又使(shi)這個花崗巖(yan)(yan)穹窿發(fa)(fa)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)強烈(lie)的(de)斷裂,形(xing)(xing)(xing)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)幾(ji)條大的(de)東西向(xiang)斷裂帶(dai),使(shi)斷裂以南(nan)(nan)(nan)大約三分(fen)之二的(de)區域抬升(sheng)(sheng),稱為海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)構造隆起,且(qie)1億(yi)多(duo)年以來(lai)一(yi)直在(zai)(zai)上升(sheng)(sheng);斷裂以北(bei)發(fa)(fa)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)下(xia)陷,稱為雷(lei)瓊(qiong)(qiong)凹陷。然而,在(zai)(zai)第四紀以前(qian)(qian)(qian)(250萬年前(qian)(qian)(qian)),海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)島(dao)(dao)和雷(lei)州半(ban)島(dao)(dao)還連(lian)在(zai)(zai)一(yi)起,在(zai)(zai)地(di)質(zhi)構造上屬華夏地(di)塊(kuai)的(de)延伸部分(fen)。到了(le)大約更(geng)新世(shi)(距(ju)(ju)今(jin)250萬年前(qian)(qian)(qian)~1.5萬年前(qian)(qian)(qian))中期,由(you)于(yu)火山(shan)活動(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),雷(lei)州半(ban)島(dao)(dao)和海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)島(dao)(dao)之間發(fa)(fa)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)了(le)斷陷,變成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)了(le)瓊(qiong)(qiong)州海(hai)(hai)(hai)峽,才(cai)使(shi)海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)島(dao)(dao)與大陸分(fen)開。以后(hou)海(hai)(hai)(hai)平面(mian)多(duo)次(ci)升(sheng)(sheng)降又使(shi)海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)島(dao)(dao)與大陸多(duo)次(ci)分(fen)離和相連(lian),到第四紀冰期結束,海(hai)(hai)(hai)平面(mian)大幅度上升(sheng)(sheng),才(cai)形(xing)(xing)(xing)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)瓊(qiong)(qiong)州海(hai)(hai)(hai)峽和海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)島(dao)(dao)的(de)形(xing)(xing)(xing)態。
地質構造運動引起(qi)的海(hai)南(nan)(nan)構造隆(long)起(qi)是海(hai)南(nan)(nan)島(dao)中(zhong)部不斷抬升,逐漸(jian)形成了海(hai)南(nan)(nan)島(dao)的地貌特(te)征(zheng);山(shan)地位于中(zhong)央(yang),丘陵、臺地、平原依次環繞(rao)四周(zhou)。海(hai)南(nan)(nan)島(dao)平均海(hai)拔120米。500米以上的山(shan)地占全島(dao)的25%,100米以上的平原、臺地占三分之(zhi)二。
也(ye)有學者(zhe)認(ren)為,海(hai)南島是2400萬年前(qian)開始從中國北部灣分離旋轉(zhuan)(zhuan)漂移(yi)出去(qu)的,海(hai)南島從原始位置逆時(shi)針旋轉(zhuan)(zhuan)了約150度達到(dao)當前(qian)位置,仍在左(zuo)旋向東(dong)南漂移(yi)中。
海南(nan)(nan)島地(di)質構(gou)(gou)造(zao)形態在(zai)空間分(fen)布上(shang),以各種(zhong)不(bu)同的方向、形跡和性質的構(gou)(gou)造(zao)組合(he),形成(cheng)東西向構(gou)(gou)造(zao)、南(nan)(nan)北向構(gou)(gou)造(zao)、北東向構(gou)(gou)造(zao)、北西向構(gou)(gou)造(zao)等主要(yao)構(gou)(gou)造(zao)體系,成(cheng)為(wei)陸(lu)地(di)的主要(yao)構(gou)(gou)造(zao)格局,控制著島陸(lu)沉(chen)積(ji)建造(zao)、巖漿(jiang)活動、成(cheng)礦作用及晚(wan)近時期的山川地(di)勢的展布。
海南島縱深地質(zhi)構(gou)造(zao)(zao)表現為地幔(man)隆起背景(jing)上的(de)(de)凹陷區,幔(man)凹中心在瓊中至樂東一帶,幔(man)凹深度為30多公里(li)。由于島內地殼(ke)結構(gou)和深部構(gou)造(zao)(zao)的(de)(de)差異(yi),在地質(zhi)構(gou)造(zao)(zao)、沉積建造(zao)(zao)和巖漿活動(dong)等(deng)方面,都呈現出許多不同的(de)(de)特征。
海南巖(yan)石有火成(cheng)巖(yan)(巖(yan)漿巖(yan))、水成(cheng)巖(yan)(沉積巖(yan))、變質巖(yan)3大類(lei),遍布全省各地。
海南島四周低平,中間(jian)高聳,呈穹隆山(shan)(shan)地(di)形,以五指山(shan)(shan)、鸚哥(ge)嶺為隆起核(he)心,向(xiang)外圍(wei)逐級下降,由山(shan)(shan)地(di)、丘陵、臺(tai)地(di)、平原構成環形層狀地(di)貌,梯級結構明顯。
海(hai)(hai)南(nan)島(dao)地(di)貌(mao)以山地(di)和(he)(he)(he)丘(qiu)陵(ling)為(wei)主(zhu),占全(quan)島(dao)面(mian)積的38.7%。山地(di)主(zhu)要(yao)分布(bu)(bu)在島(dao)中(zhong)部(bu)(bu)偏南(nan)地(di)區,山地(di)中(zhong)散(san)布(bu)(bu)著(zhu)丘(qiu)陵(ling)性盆地(di)。丘(qiu)陵(ling)主(zhu)要(yao)分布(bu)(bu)在島(dao)內陸和(he)(he)(he)西(xi)北、西(xi)南(nan)部(bu)(bu)等地(di)區。在山地(di)丘(qiu)陵(ling)周圍,廣(guang)泛分布(bu)(bu)著(zhu)寬窄不(bu)一的臺(tai)地(di)和(he)(he)(he)階地(di),占全(quan)島(dao)總面(mian)積的49.5%。環島(dao)多為(wei)濱(bin)海(hai)(hai)平(ping)原,占全(quan)島(dao)總面(mian)積的11.2%。海(hai)(hai)岸主(zhu)要(yao)為(wei)火山玄武巖臺(tai)地(di)的海(hai)(hai)蝕堆積海(hai)(hai)岸、由溺谷演變而成(cheng)的小港灣或堆積地(di)貌(mao)海(hai)(hai)岸、沙堤圍繞的海(hai)(hai)積階地(di)海(hai)(hai)岸。海(hai)(hai)岸生態以熱(re)帶紅樹(shu)林海(hai)(hai)岸和(he)(he)(he)珊瑚礁海(hai)(hai)岸為(wei)特點(dian)。
山地
海(hai)南(nan)島(dao)的(de)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)地(di)位于島(dao)中部偏南(nan),北界為(wei)光(guang)雅、儋州、仁興、屯昌、烏(wu)坡(po)、龍塘,南(nan)界為(wei)長茅、田獨、保亭、光(guang)坡(po),東(dong)(dong)界至東(dong)(dong)升、軍田、興隆(long),西界達昌江(jiang)、大田、尖峰(feng)等(deng),面積8639平方公(gong)里,占全島(dao)面積的(de)25.1%。中部山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)地(di)在(zai)海(hai)拔500米(mi)以上(shang),是海(hai)南(nan)地(di)貌(mao)的(de)骨架,以中山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(800米(mi)以上(shang))為(wei)主(zhu),面積6067.6平方公(gong)里,占山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)地(di)的(de)7成強;低山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(500~800米(mi))只(zhi)有2571.4平方公(gong)里,占近3成。山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)體(ti)主(zhu)要(yao)由(you)花崗(gang)巖組成,山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)形高(gao)峻而圓渾。山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)脈(mo)大體(ti)分為(wei)3列(lie)(lie),均東(dong)(dong)北—西南(nan)走向:東(dong)(dong)列(lie)(lie)為(wei)五指山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)脈(mo),主(zhu)要(yao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)峰(feng)有自馬嶺(ling)、五指山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)、吊羅(luo)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)、七(qi)指嶺(ling)、馬咀嶺(ling)等(deng);中列(lie)(lie)為(wei)黎母嶺(ling)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)脈(mo),主(zhu)要(yao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)峰(feng)有黎母嶺(ling)、鸚哥嶺(ling)、猴獼(mi)嶺(ling)、尖峰(feng)嶺(ling)等(deng);西列(lie)(lie)為(wei)雅加大嶺(ling)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)脈(mo),主(zhu)要(yao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)峰(feng)有雅加大嶺(ling)、霸王嶺(ling)和(he)仙婆嶺(ling)等(deng)。
丘陵盆地
海南(nan)環(huan)山丘陵(ling)帶面(mian)(mian)積不大(da)(da),僅占海南(nan)島面(mian)(mian)積的(de)(de)(de)13.1%。丘陵(ling)地(di)(di)(di)中也(ye)有(you)較高的(de)(de)(de)齊(qi)頂面(mian)(mian)或和(he)(he)緩(huan)的(de)(de)(de)山頂面(mian)(mian),常(chang)見的(de)(de)(de)為450米(mi)、350米(mi)、250米(mi)三級。丘陵(ling)之(zhi)間的(de)(de)(de)盆(pen)地(di)(di)(di),如白沙盆(pen)地(di)(di)(di)、屯昌(chang)盆(pen)地(di)(di)(di)、樂東(dong)盆(pen)地(di)(di)(di)和(he)(he)瓊海石壁盆(pen)地(di)(di)(di)等,光、熱(re)、水(shui)、土(tu)及各種(zhong)生(sheng)態條(tiao)件優越,是農(nong)作物(wu)和(he)(he)經濟(ji)林木生(sheng)長的(de)(de)(de)良好(hao)環(huan)境(jing)。海拔350米(mi)以下的(de)(de)(de)低(di)丘、谷(gu)地(di)(di)(di)、盆(pen)地(di)(di)(di)內,有(you)充足雨量和(he)(he)河水(shui)的(de)(de)(de)滋潤,土(tu)質(zhi)很好(hao),又具備防風條(tiao)件,非常(chang)適宜于(yu)發(fa)展天(tian)然橡(xiang)膠(jiao)和(he)(he)熱(re)帶經濟(ji)作物(wu),因而環(huan)山丘陵(ling)帶成為海南(nan)橡(xiang)膠(jiao)熱(re)作分布帶,也(ye)是中國最大(da)(da)的(de)(de)(de)橡(xiang)膠(jiao)熱(re)作基(ji)地(di)(di)(di)。
臺地階地
海南島的(de)(de)(de)臺(tai)地在(zai)各類地貌中所占比(bi)例最大,約占全島總面(mian)積的(de)(de)(de)三分(fen)(fen)之一。寬廣的(de)(de)(de)臺(tai)地主要分(fen)(fen)布在(zai)瓊北地區(qu),可分(fen)(fen)為海拔20米和40~50米2級,逐漸向海傾斜。
臺(tai)(tai)地(di)(di)(di)(di)地(di)(di)(di)(di)貌類型多(duo)樣化,有(you)(you)玄武(wu)巖(yan)(yan)臺(tai)(tai)地(di)(di)(di)(di)、花崗巖(yan)(yan)臺(tai)(tai)地(di)(di)(di)(di)、紅(hong)巖(yan)(yan)臺(tai)(tai)地(di)(di)(di)(di)、變質巖(yan)(yan)臺(tai)(tai)地(di)(di)(di)(di),其中(zhong)玄武(wu)巖(yan)(yan)臺(tai)(tai)地(di)(di)(di)(di)面積(ji)最大(da)(da),達(da)(da)4159平方公(gong)里,占臺(tai)(tai)地(di)(di)(di)(di)總面積(ji)近(jin)四(si)成(cheng)。在玄武(wu)巖(yan)(yan)臺(tai)(tai)地(di)(di)(di)(di)上,分布著典(dian)(dian)型的(de)(de)火(huo)山(shan)(shan)熔巖(yan)(yan)地(di)(di)(di)(di)貌,是由于地(di)(di)(di)(di)質史上新(xin)生代晚第(di)三(san)紀至第(di)四(si)紀的(de)(de)新(xin)構(gou)造運動(dong)(dong)時期,雷瓊(qiong)地(di)(di)(di)(di)區火(huo)山(shan)(shan)活(huo)動(dong)(dong)頻(pin)繁,并(bing)多(duo)次沿斷裂(lie)帶發(fa)生大(da)(da)規(gui)模(mo)的(de)(de)巖(yan)(yan)漿噴發(fa)熔巖(yan)(yan)流(liu)動(dong)(dong),形(xing)成(cheng)海南島北(bei)部遍布著成(cheng)群的(de)(de)古(gu)火(huo)山(shan)(shan)錐及大(da)(da)面積(ji)覆蓋的(de)(de)玄武(wu)巖(yan)(yan)。火(huo)山(shan)(shan)錐有(you)(you)101個(ge),噴火(huo)口(kou)有(you)(you)110多(duo)個(ge),最典(dian)(dian)型的(de)(de)是瓊(qiong)山(shan)(shan)西部的(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)(shi)山(shan)(shan)、永興一(yi)帶數(shu)十座火(huo)山(shan)(shan)口(kou)和遍地(di)(di)(di)(di)流(liu)巖(yan)(yan)。玄武(wu)巖(yan)(yan)臺(tai)(tai)地(di)(di)(di)(di)是火(huo)山(shan)(shan)噴發(fa)的(de)(de)熔巖(yan)(yan)在地(di)(di)(di)(di)表流(liu)動(dong)(dong)、層疊而成(cheng)的(de)(de)低平臺(tai)(tai)地(di)(di)(di)(di),俗稱“石(shi)(shi)(shi)地(di)(di)(di)(di)”,如(ru)瓊(qiong)山(shan)(shan)羊(yang)山(shan)(shan)地(di)(di)(di)(di)區、儋(dan)州(zhou)木棠、定安龍(long)塘等地(di)(di)(di)(di)都有(you)(you)大(da)(da)片這(zhe)種地(di)(di)(di)(di)貌,土壤(rang)厚度小,但(dan)土質肥(fei)沃。熔巖(yan)(yan)地(di)(di)(di)(di)貌還(huan)形(xing)成(cheng)熔巖(yan)(yan)隧道(dao),如(ru)瓊(qiong)山(shan)(shan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)山(shan)(shan)地(di)(di)(di)(di)區已發(fa)現“仙人洞(dong)(dong)”、“臥(wo)龍(long)洞(dong)(dong)”等隧道(dao)11條(tiao),一(yi)般寬(kuan)10多(duo)米(mi)(mi),高2~4米(mi)(mi),最長的(de)(de)1200多(duo)米(mi)(mi),總長度達(da)(da)3574米(mi)(mi),成(cheng)為(wei)當地(di)(di)(di)(di)的(de)(de)自(zi)然奇觀。還(huan)有(you)(you)不(bu)少臺(tai)(tai)地(di)(di)(di)(di)是由海蝕作用所成(cheng),如(ru)樂東(dong)黎(li)族自(zi)治(zhi)縣九(jiu)所東(dong)北(bei)的(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)(shi)門(men)嶺下花崗巖(yan)(yan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)蛋地(di)(di)(di)(di)貌中(zhong),保留著明顯(xian)的(de)(de)海蝕地(di)(di)(di)(di)形(xing),如(ru)菌(jun)狀石(shi)(shi)(shi)、石(shi)(shi)(shi)柱、石(shi)(shi)(shi)詹、石(shi)(shi)(shi)鍋、蜂巢狀海穴群、額(e)狀崖等。
沿海平原
海南島沿海平(ping)原帶(dai)是(shi)海南島地(di)貌環帶(dai)結構的最(zui)外(wai)一環,面(mian)積7800多平(ping)方(fang)公里,由(you)海岸平(ping)原、潟湖平(ping)原、三角(jiao)洲(zhou)平(ping)原3種地(di)貌組(zu)成。
海岸(an)平原,由多條沙(sha)堤(di)和于涸(he)低洼(wa)潟(xi)湖沼(zhao)澤相間組(zu)(zu)成(cheng),地(di)勢起(qi)伏,高(gao)處是沙(sha)堤(di),土(tu)質(zhi)沙(sha)性,生長耐旱植(zhi)物;低處是灰黑色沼(zhao)澤地(di),土(tu)質(zhi)較粘。如樂東(dong)鶯歌海一(yi)帶,西岸(an)形(xing)成(cheng)南(nan)北走(zou)向(xiang)沙(sha)堤(di)群,南(nan)岸(an)卻形(xing)成(cheng)東(dong)西走(zou)向(xiang)沙(sha)堤(di),使鶯歌海沙(sha)堤(di)群由2組(zu)(zu)不同走(zou)向(xiang)的沙(sha)堤(di)合成(cheng),呈三角形(xing)岬角突入海中,沙(sha)堤(di)內成(cheng)為一(yi)潟(xi)湖洼(wa)地(di)。
潟(xi)(xi)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)平(ping)原(yuan),在海(hai)(hai)岸沙堤(di)(di)后方,以東(dong)海(hai)(hai)岸的文昌、瓊(qiong)海(hai)(hai)、萬寧(ning)等沿(yan)海(hai)(hai)最典型(xing)。海(hai)(hai)南最大(da)的潟(xi)(xi)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)萬寧(ning)小海(hai)(hai),是(shi)海(hai)(hai)灣被一大(da)沙堤(di)(di)隔開而形成(cheng)的,但尚(shang)未干涸(he)成(cheng)洼地,故成(cheng)典型(xing)的大(da)潟(xi)(xi)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)。其他潟(xi)(xi)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)區多被風沙堆積(ji)填干而成(cheng)為(wei)(wei)平(ping)原(yuan),其表層(ceng)為(wei)(wei)沙土層(ceng),往下為(wei)(wei)粘土層(ceng)、黑(hei)色潟(xi)(xi)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)粘土層(ceng),以及部分泥炭土。
三(san)角(jiao)(jiao)洲(zhou)平原(yuan),在江河(he)(he)出(chu)(chu)口處由泥沙堆積(ji)而成(cheng),但(dan)海南島山林茂密,河(he)(he)流(liu)含(han)沙量不大,絕大多數江河(he)(he)出(chu)(chu)口沉(chen)積(ji)物堆疊不厚,如昌(chang)化(hua)江、萬泉河(he)(he)、陵水河(he)(he)等河(he)(he)口都僅停留(liu)在三(san)角(jiao)(jiao)洲(zhou)的(de)雛形或(huo)河(he)(he)口平原(yuan)狀態,典型的(de)三(san)角(jiao)(jiao)洲(zhou)只有(you)位于海口市的(de)南渡江口三(san)角(jiao)(jiao)洲(zhou),還有(you)儋州西北瀕臨北部灣(wan)的(de)北門河(he)(he)三(san)角(jiao)(jiao)洲(zhou)。
南(nan)渡江三角(jiao)洲是海南(nan)最大的三角(jiao)洲,是由南(nan)渡江口的古溺谷灣,經千萬年(nian)淤積(ji)含有貝類的細沙(sha)泥等海相(xiang)、河相(xiang)沉積(ji)物而成。
海岸
海南省海岸(an)(an)線總長(chang)1927.6公(gong)里,其中海南島海岸(an)(an)線長(chang)約1618公(gong)里, (新數據為1823)海岸(an)(an)線系(xi)數為0.0477。
海南島熱帶海岸地(di)貌(mao)主要有砂堤(di)堆積(ji)、海灘巖、紅樹林海岸、珊瑚(hu)礁海岸、港灣地(di)貌(mao)5類。
紅(hong)色(se)砂(sha)(sha)(sha)堤(di)(di)堆(dui)積,海南地處熱帶,海岸沙(sha)灘和砂(sha)(sha)(sha)堤(di)(di)中的(de)(de)鐵質(zhi)氧化充分,使砂(sha)(sha)(sha)堤(di)(di)成為赤紅(hong)色(se)堆(dui)積(年(nian)代屬(shu)晚(wan)更新世)。如(ru)陵水(shui)新村淌湖(hu)和黎安港之間(jian)的(de)(de)紅(hong)色(se)砂(sha)(sha)(sha)堤(di)(di),由鳳凰山腳延伸下來,披覆(fu)在白色(se)沙(sha)灘上,并膠結成堅硬的(de)(de)紅(hong)砂(sha)(sha)(sha)巖(yan)。樂東(dong)九所(suo)(suo)到昌江昌化一(yi)帶海岸和文昌的(de)(de)海岸都(dou)有這種紅(hong)色(se)砂(sha)(sha)(sha)堤(di)(di)地貌。在正(zheng)對著東(dong)北季風的(de)(de)瓊東(dong)北海岸,從文昌木蘭頭(tou)到抱虎(hu)港的(de)(de)砂(sha)(sha)(sha)堤(di)(di)上,海岸風沙(sha)堆(dui)積日益加高(gao),發育出風成砂(sha)(sha)(sha)丘巖(yan)層,砂(sha)(sha)(sha)堤(di)(di)長達(da)(da)30多公(gong)里,最高(gao)點(dian)昌灑湖(hu)塘坡達(da)(da)58米多,其高(gao)大壯觀為全國所(suo)(suo)罕見。
沙灘(tan)(tan)上(shang)(shang)的海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)灘(tan)(tan)巖,在海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)灘(tan)(tan)上(shang)(shang)從灘(tan)(tan)面到海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)面,由于陽光(guang)強烈照射(she),水中(zhong)(zhong)鈣質飽和(he)(he)析(xi)出(chu),把砂(sha)子(zi)膠結成一層堅硬的粗砂(sha)巖和(he)(he)礫巖,厚度一般(ban)在2米(mi)以下。這種鈣質膠結砂(sha)層即海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)灘(tan)(tan)巖,巖層向海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)傾(qing)斜,被風浪(lang)打碎后(hou)形成巖石(shi)堆或(huo)巨大(da)礁(jiao)塊,是鮑魚棲息的好地方。若海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)岸被沖蝕后(hou)退,海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)灘(tan)(tan)巖層能保存在離岸的淺(qian)水中(zhong)(zhong),例如樂(le)東縣(xian)鶯歌海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)岸外兩三百(bai)米(mi)處的礁(jiao)石(shi)。
熱帶(dai)(dai)紅樹林(lin)(lin)海岸,紅樹林(lin)(lin)海岸是特殊的(de)(de)熱帶(dai)(dai)生(sheng)物海岸地貌,分布于(yu)港(gang)灣內(nei)靜風(feng)環境的(de)(de)泥灘上(shang),風(feng)浪大的(de)(de)沙灘不能生(sheng)長紅樹林(lin)(lin)。較(jiao)發育的(de)(de)紅樹林(lin)(lin)海岸主要分布在(zai)瓊山東(dong)寨港(gang),文昌鋪(pu)前港(gang)和(he)清瀾港(gang)內(nei)部、馮家港(gang)南北(bei),臨(lin)高(gao)新盈港(gang)內(nei),儋(dan)州新英港(gang)內(nei)和(he)澄(cheng)邁(mai)馬裊港(gang)等處(chu)。此(ci)外,在(zai)海口、瓊海、三亞(ya)、陵水等市(shi)縣也有小片分布。海南紅樹林(lin)(lin)種類(lei)多,樹型高(gao),生(sheng)長快,數(shu)量(liang)和(he)面積皆為全國(guo)之冠,被譽為“海上(shang)森林(lin)(lin)”、“海岸衛士”。
環島(dao)珊(shan)瑚(hu)礁(jiao)海(hai)(hai)(hai)岸,珊(shan)瑚(hu)礁(jiao)是熱帶淺(qian)水(shui)(shui)造(zao)(zao)礁(jiao)珊(shan)瑚(hu)蟲群(qun)體骨(gu)骼和其(qi)他石灰質生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)物遺(yi)體長期堆積而成,也屬(shu)典型的(de)熱帶生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)物海(hai)(hai)(hai)岸地貌。珊(shan)瑚(hu)一(yi)般生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)長在(zai)海(hai)(hai)(hai)水(shui)(shui)透(tou)明、無泥、有浪(lang)的(de)淺(qian)水(shui)(shui)域,能在(zai)海(hai)(hai)(hai)岸上(shang)連成一(yi)片礁(jiao)盤(平(ping)(ping)臺(tai))地形,實際上(shang)是一(yi)個巨大的(de)石灰質生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)物群(qun)體,在(zai)長期不(bu)(bu)斷的(de)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)長過(guo)(guo)程中,形成特(te)殊(shu)的(de)珊(shan)瑚(hu)礁(jiao)海(hai)(hai)(hai)岸類(lei)型,厚度不(bu)(bu)過(guo)(guo)10米(mi)左右(you),下面即是沙泥層或基(ji)巖(yan),屬(shu)全新世海(hai)(hai)(hai)侵(qin)相。珊(shan)瑚(hu)岸礁(jiao)有保護(hu)海(hai)(hai)(hai)岸不(bu)(bu)受波浪(lang)侵(qin)蝕的(de)作用,又是魚類(lei)水(shui)(shui)產品集中生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)長的(de)地點,故礁(jiao)區生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)產力(li)比(bi)河(he)口區大,平(ping)(ping)均(jun)可達(da)4000克/平(ping)(ping)方米(mi)·年(nian)。海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)島(dao)淺(qian)水(shui)(shui)造(zao)(zao)礁(jiao)珊(shan)瑚(hu)種(zhong)類(lei)多(duo)達(da)110多(duo)種(zhong),環島(dao)海(hai)(hai)(hai)岸環境(jing)極適宜其(qi)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)長,因而珊(shan)瑚(hu)礁(jiao)特(te)別發育,生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)長帶可達(da)2000米(mi)寬,位居(ju)全國(guo)第(di)一(yi)。
沙(sha)質(zhi)(zhi)海(hai)(hai)岸(an)(an),主要分(fen)布于沙(sha)壩潟湖和三角(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)洲(zhou)平(ping)原沿岸(an)(an)。在抱虎(hu)角(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)~大(da)(da)花(hua)(hua)角(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)岸(an)(an)段(duan),沙(sha)質(zhi)(zhi)海(hai)(hai)岸(an)(an)占絕大(da)(da)部分(fen),約(yue)250公(gong)里(li)(li)(li)岸(an)(an)段(duan)為沙(sha)質(zhi)(zhi)潟湖海(hai)(hai)岸(an)(an),集中分(fen)布在抱虎(hu)角(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)至銅鼓咀、博鰲至大(da)(da)花(hua)(hua)角(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)兩個岸(an)(an)段(duan)。在大(da)(da)花(hua)(hua)角(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)~梅山岸(an)(an)段(duan),除巖石海(hai)(hai)岸(an)(an)外(wai),其余基本上為沙(sha)質(zhi)(zhi)海(hai)(hai)岸(an)(an),總長(chang)(chang)近(jin)300公(gong)里(li)(li)(li)。梅山~昌化江口(kou)岸(an)(an)段(duan),沙(sha)質(zhi)(zhi)海(hai)(hai)岸(an)(an)以沙(sha)堤為主,總長(chang)(chang)近(jin) 200公(gong)里(li)(li)(li),幾乎連續分(fen)布于整個岸(an)(an)段(duan)。昌化江口(kou)~抱虎(hu)角(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)岸(an)(an)段(duan),沙(sha)質(zhi)(zhi)海(hai)(hai)岸(an)(an)線總長(chang)(chang)約(yue)340公(gong)里(li)(li)(li),其中昌化江口(kou)~洋浦岸(an)(an)段(duan)長(chang)(chang)約(yue)100公(gong)里(li)(li)(li),儋州(zhou)光村附近(jin)長(chang)(chang)約(yue)20公(gong)里(li)(li)(li),臨高角(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)附近(jin)長(chang)(chang)約(yue)25公(gong)里(li)(li)(li),澄邁縣(xian)(xian)馬(ma)村至文昌縣(xian)(xian)抱虎(hu)角(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)岸(an)(an)段(duan)長(chang)(chang)約(yue)170公(gong)里(li)(li)(li),其余零(ling)星岸(an)(an)段(duan)沙(sha)質(zhi)(zhi)海(hai)(hai)岸(an)(an)長(chang)(chang)約(yue)25公(gong)里(li)(li)(li)。
海灣
海(hai)南(nan)島四(si)面環(huan)海(hai),海(hai)岸線曲折綿長(達1584.6公里(li))(新數據為1823公里(li)),分(fen)布大小(xiao)天然港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)灣(wan)(wan)78個(ge)(ge)(有大小(xiao)港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)灣(wan)(wan)68個(ge)(ge)之(zhi)說),較大的(de)港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)灣(wan)(wan)有北部的(de)秀英港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(又(you)稱海(hai)口港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang))、海(hai)口新港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、東(dong)水港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、鋪前港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、馬村港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang),海(hai)南(nan)灣(wan)(wan)、海(hai)口灣(wan)(wan)、澄邁灣(wan)(wan)、后水灣(wan)(wan)、白(bai)沙(sha)門等(deng);南(nan)部的(de)榆林港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、三亞港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、鐵爐港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、新村港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、黎(li)安港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang),三亞灣(wan)(wan)、崖州灣(wan)(wan)、琊龍灣(wan)(wan)、海(hai)棠灣(wan)(wan)、陵(ling)水灣(wan)(wan)、南(nan)灣(wan)(wan)、香水灣(wan)(wan)等(deng),東(dong)部的(de)清(qing)(qing)瀾(lan)港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、博鰲港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、烏(wu)場港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、潭門港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang),石梅(mei)灣(wan)(wan)、日月(yue)灣(wan)(wan)、南(nan)燕(yan)灣(wan)(wan)、大花(hua)角等(deng);西(xi)部的(de)八所港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、洋浦港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、白(bai)馬井港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、感城港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、嶺頭港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang),洋浦灣(wan)(wan)、北黎(li)灣(wan)(wan)、棋(qi)子(zi)灣(wan)(wan)等(deng),港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)灣(wan)(wan)資源豐(feng)富,環(huan)境(jing)條(tiao)件優越。其中(zhong)海(hai)口港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、三亞港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、洋浦港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)、八所港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)和清(qing)(qing)瀾(lan)港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)為海(hai)南(nan)五大港(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)(gang)口。
土壤分布
海(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)島土壤(rang)(rang)的水平地(di)帶(dai)(dai)性(xing)不明(ming)顯(xian),地(di)帶(dai)(dai)性(xing)土壤(rang)(rang)為(wei)磚紅壤(rang)(rang)。因海(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)島地(di)勢中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)高(gao)周(zhou)低,無(wu)論成(cheng)土條件,或是(shi)土壤(rang)(rang)分(fen)布(bu)(bu),均以(yi)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)南(nan)(nan)(nan)部(bu)(bu)山(shan)(shan)地(di)為(wei)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心向(xiang)四周(zhou)遞變。土壤(rang)(rang)分(fen)布(bu)(bu)受地(di)形影響極為(wei)明(ming)顯(xian),全島土壤(rang)(rang)分(fen)布(bu)(bu)成(cheng)若干個同心圓,圍繞中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)部(bu)(bu)山(shan)(shan)地(di)依次分(fen)布(bu)(bu):最(zui)外環圈是(shi)圍繞全島近代濱(bin)海(hai)(hai)階地(di)分(fen)布(bu)(bu)的濱(bin)海(hai)(hai)沙土,其海(hai)(hai)拔高(gao)度僅在1米(mi)(mi)以(yi)內(nei);次外環圈為(wei)地(di)帶(dai)(dai)性(xing)土壤(rang)(rang)——磚紅壤(rang)(rang),主要分(fen)布(bu)(bu)在階地(di)、臺地(di)和海(hai)(hai)拔在350米(mi)(mi)(或400米(mi)(mi))以(yi)下的丘(qiu)陵(ling)。由于島北(bei)部(bu)(bu)沿海(hai)(hai)有(you)較寬的階地(di)、臺地(di)和丘(qiu)陵(ling),因而,島北(bei)部(bu)(bu)土壤(rang)(rang)分(fen)布(bu)(bu)的環帶(dai)(dai)較寬。島南(nan)(nan)(nan)部(bu)(bu)因山(shan)(shan)地(di)位(wei)于正(zheng)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)而偏南(nan)(nan)(nan),甚至(zhi)直逼(bi)海(hai)(hai)岸,土壤(rang)(rang)的環帶(dai)(dai)較窄。島中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)南(nan)(nan)(nan)部(bu)(bu)山(shan)(shan)地(di)為(wei)黃壤(rang)(rang),其海(hai)(hai)拔在400米(mi)(mi)以(yi)上。
植被分布
海(hai)南的(de)水熱(re)條件(jian)優(you)越,植(zhi)(zhi)被的(de)組成種(zhong)類豐富多(duo)樣,屬熱(re)帶及(ji)熱(re)帶島嶼植(zhi)(zhi)被類型(xing)。據調查,海(hai)南島的(de)植(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)有259個科,1300多(duo)屬,4200種(zhong),喬木(mu)800多(duo)種(zhong),其(qi)中熱(re)帶種(zhong)類占83%。1995年全省森林(lin)面積達163.7萬公頃,其(qi)中天然林(lin)83.9萬公頃,人工林(lin)約82.7萬公頃,森林(lin)覆蓋率已達48.7%。
自然植被
海(hai)南的自然植被(bei)有熱(re)帶(dai)季(ji)雨林、熱(re)帶(dai)雨林、常綠闊(kuo)葉林、紅樹林、針(zhen)葉林、灌叢和(he)草原(yuan)等類(lei)型。
(一(yi))熱帶(dai)季雨(yu)林
熱(re)帶(dai)季(ji)(ji)雨(yu)林(lin)分布(bu)于(yu)周期性干(gan)、濕季(ji)(ji)交替的(de)地區,旱季(ji)(ji)時或(huo)多或(huo)少(shao)是落葉(xie)的(de),而在濕季(ji)(ji)是常綠的(de),海南(nan)的(de)熱(re)帶(dai)季(ji)(ji)雨(yu)林(lin)又分為常綠季(ji)(ji)雨(yu)林(lin)和落葉(xie)季(ji)(ji)雨(yu)林(lin)兩種類型。
常綠季(ji)雨(yu)(yu)林(lin),在(zai)原生林(lin)中近似于熱帶雨(yu)(yu)林(lin),但種類外貌又比雨(yu)(yu)林(lin)遜色,主要(yao)分(fen)布于海拔750米以下的低山、丘陵和臺地(di)地(di)區(qu),尤以東(dong)南部丘陵低山為典(dian)型。主要(yao)珍貴(gui)木材有:青皮、荔枝、蝴蝶樹、鶯(ying)歌木、油(you)楠、黃桐等。
落葉季雨林,主(zhu)要分(fen)布(bu)于海南(nan)的(de)西部和南(nan)部海拔500米(mi)以下(xia)的(de)丘陵、臺地上,群落比(bi)較低矮。常見(jian)的(de)植被有厚皮樹、麻櫟、白格、陸國(guo)、平(ping)脈稠等。
(二)熱帶雨林
海(hai)南(nan)島的熱帶雨(yu)林(lin)(lin)(lin)實際上是溝(gou)谷雨(yu)林(lin)(lin)(lin)和山(shan)(shan)(shan)地(di)(di)(di)雨(yu)林(lin)(lin)(lin)。溝(gou)谷雨(yu)林(lin)(lin)(lin)分布于海(hai)拔900米(mi)以下的山(shan)(shan)(shan)谷地(di)(di)(di)區(qu),如(ru)尖(jian)峰(feng)嶺、吊羅(luo)山(shan)(shan)(shan)和卡法嶺等山(shan)(shan)(shan)地(di)(di)(di),主要(yao)(yao)樹(shu)(shu)種(zhong)(zhong)有(you):雞毛松(song)(song)、蝴蝶(die)樹(shu)(shu)、母生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)、綠楠、海(hai)南(nan)楊桐等。山(shan)(shan)(shan)地(di)(di)(di)雨(yu)林(lin)(lin)(lin),多分布于海(hai)拔750~1200米(mi)之間(jian),在尖(jian)峰(feng)嶺、獼(mi)猴嶺、馬域嶺和吊羅(luo)山(shan)(shan)(shan)等地(di)(di)(di),面積較大,且(qie)多為原生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)性森(sen)林(lin)(lin)(lin),主要(yao)(yao)樹(shu)(shu)種(zhong)(zhong)有(you):陸均松(song)(song)、稠木、坡壘(lei)、子(zi)京、花(hua)梨、油丹等。溝(gou)谷雨(yu)林(lin)(lin)(lin)和山(shan)(shan)(shan)地(di)(di)(di)雨(yu)林(lin)(lin)(lin)是海(hai)南(nan)島的重要(yao)(yao)水源林(lin)(lin)(lin),同時又是熱帶的珍貴用材(cai)林(lin)(lin)(lin)和藥材(cai)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)產基地(di)(di)(di)。
(三(san))常綠闊葉林(lin)
常(chang)綠(lv)闊(kuo)葉(xie)林分(fen)(fen)布(bu)于海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)島的(de)山(shan)地上,是(shi)一(yi)種山(shan)地垂直(zhi)分(fen)(fen)布(bu)的(de)類(lei)型(xing),一(yi)般(ban)分(fen)(fen)布(bu)于海(hai)(hai)(hai)拔1000米以上的(de)山(shan)地,可分(fen)(fen)為山(shan)地常(chang)綠(lv)闊(kuo)葉(xie)林和(he)(he)山(shan)頂矮林。前者的(de)樹(shu)種有(you):陸均(jun)松、海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)楊桐(tong)、海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)五(wu)針松、栲(kao)、黃背櫟;后者的(de)樹(shu)種有(you):櫟子稠、五(wu)裂木、厚皮(pi)香、栲(kao)、冬(dong)青、海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)杜(du)鵑(juan)等。山(shan)地常(chang)綠(lv)闊(kuo)葉(xie)林和(he)(he)山(shan)頂矮林也是(shi)海(hai)(hai)(hai)南(nan)(nan)島重要的(de)水(shui)源(yuan)林之一(yi)。
(四)紅樹林
海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)南的(de)(de)紅(hong)(hong)樹林分為海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)灘紅(hong)(hong)樹林和海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)岸(an)半紅(hong)(hong)樹林兩種類型(xing)。海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)灘紅(hong)(hong)樹林分布(bu)于淤(yu)泥深(shen)厚且(qie)較閉塞(sai)的(de)(de)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)灣或河口(kou),高潮線(xian)以(yi)下的(de)(de)地(di)帶(dai)(dai),分布(bu)面積較大的(de)(de)是瓊山東寨港(gang),文昌鋪前港(gang)、清瀾港(gang),儋州新英港(gang)和陵水(shui)(shui)新村(cun)港(gang)等地(di)。樹種有文紅(hong)(hong)樹、木(mu)欖(lan)、紅(hong)(hong)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)蘭、海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)桑及木(mu)果(guo)(guo)楝。海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)岸(an)半紅(hong)(hong)樹林分布(bu)于高潮線(xian)以(yi)上的(de)(de)海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)岸(an)地(di)帶(dai)(dai),常與(yu)紅(hong)(hong)樹林相(xiang)連呈條帶(dai)(dai)狀分布(bu),面積很小。主(zhu)要樹種有:黃槿(jin)、海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)棠(tang)果(guo)(guo)、海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)芒果(guo)(guo)、水(shui)(shui)椰、草海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)桐、水(shui)(shui)莞花等。
(五)針葉林
海南島的針葉林(lin)純林(lin),面(mian)積不大,只見于(yu)丘陵和(he)臺地(di)上(shang)的南亞松(song)和(he)東部濱海臺地(di)沙土上(shang)的竹柏林(lin),現狀植(zhi)被中僅有霸王嶺(ling)和(he)瓊中縣的松(song)濤等地(di),保留有天然純林(lin),樹種(zhong)以海南松(song)為(wei)主。在(zai)海南的自然植(zhi)被中,還有灌(guan)叢(cong)、刺灌(guan)叢(cong)和(he)草原(yuan)等類型。
人工植被
人(ren)工植(zhi)(zhi)被是人(ren)為(wei)經(jing)濟活動(dong)對土地(di)利用(yong)的產(chan)物(wu)。海南島是我國熱(re)帶(dai)經(jing)濟作物(wu)發展的主(zhu)(zhu)要基地(di),栽(zai)培作物(wu)種(zhong)類豐(feng)富,栽(zai)培群落多樣(yang),并以熱(re)帶(dai)性(xing)為(wei)主(zhu)(zhu)。主(zhu)(zhu)要樹(shu)種(zhong)有木麻黃、桉(an)樹(shu),組(zu)成沿海防(fang)護林,1995年(nian)全省防(fang)護林約299萬(wan)(wan)(wan)公(gong)頃(qing)(qing),主(zhu)(zhu)要經(jing)濟林有橡膠(jiao)、香(xiang)茅、胡椒、芒果、香(xiang)蕉(jiao)等。1995年(nian)全省熱(re)帶(dai)作物(wu)種(zhong)植(zhi)(zhi)面(mian)積(ji)(ji)達442萬(wan)(wan)(wan)公(gong)頃(qing)(qing),占(zhan)土地(di)總面(mian)積(ji)(ji)的125%,其中橡膠(jiao)種(zhong)植(zhi)(zhi)面(mian)積(ji)(ji)有368萬(wan)(wan)(wan)公(gong)頃(qing)(qing)。農作物(wu)主(zhu)(zhu)要有:水(shui)稻、番薯、木薯、花(hua)生和甘蔗等。1995年(nian)全省水(shui)稻播種(zhong)面(mian)積(ji)(ji)為(wei)394萬(wan)(wan)(wan)公(gong)頃(qing)(qing),占(zhan)土地(di)總面(mian)積(ji)(ji)的11.1%。
森林分布
在(zai)海(hai)南(nan)(nan)島,森林(lin)資源分布(bu)于(yu)中(zhong)部(bu)、西(xi)南(nan)(nan)部(bu)和東南(nan)(nan)部(bu)山(shan)區,即(ji)集(ji)中(zhong)于(yu)尖峰嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、霸(ba)王(wang)嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、吊(diao)羅山(shan)和瓊中(zhong)縣(xian)(xian)(xian)的(de)五(wu)指山(shan)、鸚哥嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、黎母(mu)山(shan)、什寒山(shan)、白馬嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、嘉積嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling),白沙(sha)縣(xian)(xian)(xian)的(de)南(nan)(nan)溪嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、南(nan)(nan)高嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、斧頭嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling),樂(le)東縣(xian)(xian)(xian)的(de)佳陽嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、抱由嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、卡法嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling),保亭縣(xian)(xian)(xian)的(de)好(hao)梧嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、生毛(mao)嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、四方嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、南(nan)(nan)林(lin)嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling),三亞市(shi)(shi)的(de)抱龍嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、雅(ya)亮嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling),東方縣(xian)(xian)(xian)的(de)馬鞍嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、獼猴嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling),昌江(jiang)縣(xian)(xian)(xian)的(de)保梅(mei)嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling),萬寧市(shi)(shi)的(de)牛土嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、銅(tong)鐵(tie)嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、六(liu)連嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、東嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)、尖嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling),瓊海(hai)市(shi)(shi)的(de)會山(shan),儋(dan)州市(shi)(shi)的(de)鹿母(mu)灣,屯昌縣(xian)(xian)(xian)的(de)黃竹嶺(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)(ling)以及澄(cheng)邁縣(xian)(xian)(xian)的(de)仁興等山(shan)區。
海(hai)南島(dao)最重要(yao)的(de)熱帶(dai)森林(lin)(lin)(lin)區(qu)(qu)(qu)有5個:①五(wu)指山熱帶(dai)原始森林(lin)(lin)(lin)區(qu)(qu)(qu);②霸王嶺;③尖(jian)峰嶺林(lin)(lin)(lin)區(qu)(qu)(qu);④吊羅山林(lin)(lin)(lin)區(qu)(qu)(qu);⑤黎(li)母山林(lin)(lin)(lin)區(qu)(qu)(qu)。這些林(lin)(lin)(lin)區(qu)(qu)(qu),森林(lin)(lin)(lin)資源(yuan)豐(feng)富,珍貴樹種多。五(wu)大林(lin)(lin)(lin)區(qu)(qu)(qu)均為水源(yuan)林(lin)(lin)(lin)和水土保持林(lin)(lin)(lin),對調節氣候、涵養水源(yuan)、防御臺風等起著重要(yao)作用。此(ci)外,海(hai)南島(dao)的(de)人工林(lin)(lin)(lin)主要(yao)分(fen)布于環(huan)島(dao)沿海(hai)地帶(dai)和農(nong)墾(ken)局的(de)各個國營農(nong)場。
海南島屬熱(re)帶(dai)季(ji)風(feng)(feng)海洋性氣(qi)候。基本特(te)征為:四(si)季(ji)不分明(ming),夏(xia)無(wu)酷熱(re),冬無(wu)嚴寒,氣(qi)溫年(nian)較差小,年(nian)平(ping)均氣(qi)溫高;干(gan)季(ji)、雨季(ji)明(ming)顯,冬春干(gan)旱(han),夏(xia)秋多(duo)雨,多(duo)熱(re)帶(dai)氣(qi)旋(xuan);光、熱(re)、水(shui)(shui)資源豐富,風(feng)(feng)、旱(han)、寒等氣(qi)候災害頻(pin)繁(fan)。年(nian)平(ping)均氣(qi)溫22.5-25.60C,年(nian)日照時數1780-2600小時,太陽總輻射量4500-5800兆焦(jiao)耳/平(ping)方米,年(nian)降(jiang)水(shui)(shui)量1500-2500毫米(西部沿海約1000毫米)。
日照
海(hai)南島位(wei)于北回(hui)歸線以南,終年(nian)(nian)太(tai)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)高(gao)度(du)(du)角大。夏至前后(hou)有(you)(you)兩次太(tai)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)位(wei)于天(tian)頂,正午時(shi),太(tai)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)高(gao)度(du)(du)角在(zai)(zai)84°45′~86°45′;即使在(zai)(zai)冬(dong)至日,正午時(shi),太(tai)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)高(gao)度(du)(du)角也在(zai)(zai)46°05′~48°05′。各地夏至與(yu)冬(dong)至的晝(zhou)長相差很小(xiao),因(yin)而,太(tai)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)輻射能相當豐富,日照充足,年(nian)(nian)太(tai)陽(yang)(yang)(yang)輻射總量為(wei)4600~5800兆(zhao)焦耳(er)/平方米,年(nian)(nian)日照時(shi)數在(zai)(zai)1793~2590小(xiao)時(shi).為(wei)熱帶氣(qi)候的形成奠定了(le)基礎。海(hai)南島位(wei)于東亞季風區,受(shou)季風影響(xiang)較為(wei)明顯。東風帶系(xi)統和西風帶系(xi)統對其(qi)均有(you)(you)影響(xiang)。
氣溫
海(hai)南各(ge)地的(de)(de)年平均(jun)氣(qi)溫(wen)為22.5~25.6℃,以(yi)中(zhong)部(bu)的(de)(de)瓊中(zhong)最低(di),南部(bu)的(de)(de)三亞最高。等(deng)溫(wen)線向南彎曲呈弧(hu)線分布,從中(zhong)部(bu)山(shan)區(qu)(qu)向四周沿海(hai)遞增(zeng),23℃等(deng)溫(wen)線在中(zhong)部(bu)山(shan)區(qu)(qu)閉合。由于海(hai)洋的(de)(de)調節,海(hai)南氣(qi)溫(wen)年變(bian)差普(pu)(pu)遍較小(xiao),多數地區(qu)(qu)為8~10℃,三亞最小(xiao)(7.6℃)。普(pu)(pu)遍比中(zhong)國大陸地區(qu)(qu)低(di)5~10℃。
降水
海南各地(di)的(de)(de)年(nian)(nian)(nian)平(ping)均雨(yu)(yu)量為(wei)(wei)(wei)923~2459毫(hao)米(mi)。等雨(yu)(yu)量線呈環狀分布,中(zhong)、東部多(duo)(duo)(duo),西(xi)部少;山區丘陵(ling)多(duo)(duo)(duo),沿海平(ping)原(yuan)少;多(duo)(duo)(duo)雨(yu)(yu)中(zhong)心(xin)位(wei)于萬寧西(xi)側至瓊中(zhong)一帶,少雨(yu)(yu)區位(wei)于東方市沿海。多(duo)(duo)(duo)雨(yu)(yu)中(zhong)心(xin)的(de)(de)瓊中(zhong)縣,年(nian)(nian)(nian)平(ping)均雨(yu)(yu)量為(wei)(wei)(wei)2458.5毫(hao)米(mi),年(nian)(nian)(nian)最多(duo)(duo)(duo)雨(yu)(yu)量為(wei)(wei)(wei)3759.0毫(hao)米(mi)(1978年(nian)(nian)(nian)),年(nian)(nian)(nian)最少雨(yu)(yu)量為(wei)(wei)(wei)1398.1毫(hao)米(mi)(1959年(nian)(nian)(nian))。少雨(yu)(yu)區的(de)(de)東方縣,年(nian)(nian)(nian)平(ping)均雨(yu)(yu)量為(wei)(wei)(wei)922.7毫(hao)米(mi),年(nian)(nian)(nian)最多(duo)(duo)(duo)雨(yu)(yu)量為(wei)(wei)(wei)1528.8毫(hao)米(mi)(1980年(nian)(nian)(nian)),年(nian)(nian)(nian)最少雨(yu)(yu)量為(wei)(wei)(wei)275.4毫(hao)米(mi)(1969年(nian)(nian)(nian))。瓊中(zhong)與東方直線距離不(bu)足150公(gong)里,雨(yu)(yu)量相差竟如(ru)此懸殊。
海南島降水的(de)(de)季(ji)(ji)節分配很不均勻,有(you)明(ming)顯(xian)的(de)(de)多雨(yu)季(ji)(ji)和少(shao)雨(yu)季(ji)(ji)。每年5~10月是多雨(yu)季(ji)(ji),總降雨(yu)量(liang)1500毫米左(zuo)右,占(zhan)全年降雨(yu)量(liang)的(de)(de)70%~90%,雨(yu)源主要有(you)鋒面雨(yu)、熱雷雨(yu)和臺風雨(yu);每年11月至翌年4月為少(shao)雨(yu)季(ji)(ji),僅占(zhan)全年降雨(yu)量(liang)的(de)(de)10%~30%,少(shao)雨(yu)季(ji)(ji)干旱常(chang)常(chang)發生。