府治在今府山(shan)之上,縣(xian)治在今十字(zi)街頭(tou)之右,故城(cheng)中有(you)縣(xian)西(xi)街,南街(原名(ming)縣(xian)南街或南市大街),縣(xian)后街等地名(ming),都是以縣(xian)治方位定名(ming)。府縣(xian)皆有(you)治學(xue)(xue),縣(xian)學(xue)(xue)在縣(xian)學(xue)(xue)街黌序巷,古有(you)鹿鳴書(shu)院(yuan);府學(xue)(xue)在府山(shan)西(xi)麓(lu),故地叫府學(xue)(xue)里(li),建有(you)清蓮書(shu)院(yuan)(又(you)名(ming)正(zheng)誼書(shu)院(yuan))。
城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池始(shi)建(jian)于漢(han)代(dai)(東(dong)(dong)(dong)漢(han)土(tu)墻(qiang)為(wei)(wei)屯兵(bing)之(zhi)用(yong),由當(dang)時駐軍鄭平(ping)等人首建(jian),而非(fei)府(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)),現(xian)存(cun)的府(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)以(yi)唐代(dai)為(wei)(wei)基礎,明代(dai)重修(xiu)。原有六(liu)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men):東(dong)(dong)(dong)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“迎和(he)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)東(dong)(dong)(dong)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));南(nan)(nan)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“禮(li)賢門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)大南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)通遠(yuan)(yuan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)光(guang)遠(yuan)(yuan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));西(xi)(xi)(xi)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“航遠(yuan)(yuan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)大西(xi)(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)水亭門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)朝京(jing)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));北(bei)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“永清門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)浮石(shi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)拱宸門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));東(dong)(dong)(dong)南(nan)(nan)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“清輝門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)小(xiao)南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)前湖門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)魁星門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));西(xi)(xi)(xi)南(nan)(nan)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“和(he)平(ping)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)小(xiao)西(xi)(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)埭(dai)堰門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)通廣門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men))。六(liu)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)之(zhi)上(shang)均建(jian)樓(lou),各(ge)(ge)為(wei)(wei)兩(liang)層歇山,各(ge)(ge)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)形制以(yi)水亭為(wei)(wei)例:城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)墻(qiang)高(gao)7.3米(mi)(mi),厚12.37米(mi)(mi),兩(liang)側城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)殘(can)長各(ge)(ge)為(wei)(wei)30米(mi)(mi)、20米(mi)(mi);拱券高(gao)5.55米(mi)(mi),寬4.88米(mi)(mi),墻(qiang)基用(yong)8層條(tiao)石(shi)錯縫平(ping)砌,高(gao)1.5米(mi)(mi),上(shang)用(yong)磚平(ping)砌1.4米(mi)(mi)處起券,券頂(ding)橫(heng)砌。在迎和(he)、清輝、禮(li)賢、永清四門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)外包(bao)筑月城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。明代(dai)又(you)在西(xi)(xi)(xi)北(bei)角(jiao)開(kai)“西(xi)(xi)(xi)安(an)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”。府(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)現(xian)存(cun)西(xi)(xi)(xi)安(an)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、大西(xi)(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、大南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、小(xiao)南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、東(dong)(dong)(dong)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)及小(xiao)西(xi)(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)之(zhi)半,除大西(xi)(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)于上(shang)世紀末重新修(xiu)繕外,各(ge)(ge)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)已圮。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)殘(can)存(cun)的約有2000米(mi)(mi),殘(can)高(gao)3—5米(mi)(mi),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外護城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)河基本(ben)保存(cun),南(nan)(nan)湖、斗潭保存(cun)較(jiao)好,東(dong)(dong)(dong)側城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)河則有待于疏浚(jun)。1989年12月公(gong)布(bu)為(wei)(wei)省級重點文物保護單位(wei)。
2006年(nian)6月(yue),衢州(zhou)府(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)正式(shi)被國務院(yuan)核(he)定公布為第六批全國重(zhong)點文物(wu)保護(hu)單位,衢州(zhou)府(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)是(shi)我國東南(nan)重(zhong)鎮的實物(wu)依(yi)據,是(shi)研究(jiu)府(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)一級城(cheng)(cheng)池格局(ju)、規模(mo)等方(fang)面(mian)的實物(wu)標本。此外,衢州(zhou)府(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)在(zai)選址和城(cheng)(cheng)臺(tai)形(xing)制等方(fang)面(mian)皆有獨到之處,具有很高的歷史、藝術、科學(xue)價值(zhi)。
城(cheng)(cheng)池是中(zhong)國特有的(de)人文景觀,是城(cheng)(cheng)市(shi)的(de)縮(suo)影。衢州(zhou)是一座歷史文化(hua)(hua)名城(cheng)(cheng),這座城(cheng)(cheng)市(shi)有著深厚的(de)文化(hua)(hua)底(di)蘊,城(cheng)(cheng)墻和城(cheng)(cheng)河(he)就是歷史的(de)見證,文化(hua)(hua)的(de)背景。
衢(qu)州(zhou)府(fu)(fu)城歷(li)(li)史悠久,明(ming)弘治《衢(qu)州(zhou)府(fu)(fu)志》云(yun):“今龜峰之城亦(yi)不知其(qi)(qi)初建(jian)(jian)。州(zhou)人(ren)相傳,先址土墻(qiang)而(er)已(yi)。”衢(qu)州(zhou)之城建(jian)(jian)于(yu)何時,史志均無明(ming)確的(de)(de)(de)記載(zai),尚難以(yi)確定(ding),但比較統一的(de)(de)(de)說法(fa)是(shi)唐(tang)以(yi)后(hou)衢(qu)州(zhou)才(cai)正式(shi)建(jian)(jian)筑了磚石城墻(qiang)。明(ming)嘉靖(jing)《衢(qu)州(zhou)府(fu)(fu)志》云(yun):“唐(tang)武(wu)德四年(621)置衢(qu)州(zhou)建(jian)(jian)郡(jun)(jun)治”。有郭(guo)必有城,因為自古以(yi)來城郭(guo)是(shi)相依的(de)(de)(de)。唐(tang)崔耿《女(nv)樓記》云(yun):“衢(qu)之城成于(yu)龜峰崢嶸嶺上(shang)”,說得(de)亦(yi)十分肯(ken)定(ding)。所以(yi)可(ke)以(yi)斷定(ding),衢(qu)州(zhou)城墻(qiang)的(de)(de)(de)初建(jian)(jian),其(qi)(qi)時當(dang)在唐(tang)武(wu)德四年建(jian)(jian)郡(jun)(jun)治之后(hou);其(qi)(qi)址當(dang)以(yi)龜峰、崢嶸嶺為中心。自此以(yi)后(hou),城墻(qiang)歷(li)(li)經修(xiu)筑、擴展(zhan),形成保留至今的(de)(de)(de)古城墻(qiang)。
衢(qu)州地處浙西,交通(tong)(tong)便利(li),自(zi)古(gu)有四省通(tong)(tong)衢(qu)之(zhi)美名,此地能控(kong)鄱(po)陽(yang)之(zhi)肘腋,扼甌(ou)閩之(zhi)咽喉,連宣徽之(zhi)聲勢,集百越(yue)之(zhi)精華(hua)。這里是圍棋仙境、軍事(shi)要塞、文化之(zhi)邦,是錢塘江(jiang)上游的璀璨明珠。夏(xia)商為“揚州之(zhi)域”,春秋歸(gui)越(yue),戰國歸(gui)楚,秦屬(shu)會稽,漢屬(shu)東陽(yang),三(san)國從吳,建(jian)制于(yu)(yu)唐(tang),興于(yu)(yu)宋,昌于(yu)(yu)明,盛于(yu)(yu)清。前后近兩千年的發展史。
唐(tang)武(wu)德四年(621)尉(yu)遲敬德奉高宗之命分婺(wu)州(今金華)置衢(qu)(qu)州,在(zai)衢(qu)(qu)江畔建設城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池,初時城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)中(zhong)有(you)起(qi)伏(fu)小丘數(shu)座(zuo),居高臨下(xia),適于防守,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外還有(you)大片土地,宜作(zuo)良田,供城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)糧草。始建城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)時,周(zhou)邊居民(min)皆遷入城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)圈(quan),并協作(zuo)建城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。當時軍民(min)合(he)力日(ri)出而作(zuo),日(ri)落而息,竭力造城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。
宋宣和三年(1121)郡守高(gao)至臨,始在六門之上建(jian)設城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓,挖城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內河,并開鑿城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)壕,引烏(wu)溪江(jiang)之水環(huan)之,自(zi)此衢(qu)州便有了護城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)河,水環(huan)北、東、南三面皆通衢(qu)江(jiang),因而船只可入(ru)航城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池,進水門洞,到(dao)達城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)中(zhong)各處,這(zhe)些(xie)使衢(qu)州城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)防進一(yi)步完善。據清(qing)康熙《西(xi)安(an)縣志》載:“城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高(gao)一(yi)丈六尺(chi)五寸,廣一(yi)丈一(yi)尺(chi),周回四千五十步。”
元至正十五(wu)年(nian)(nian)監郡伯顏忽都,沿城(cheng)舊址,修復年(nian)(nian)久殘敗的城(cheng)墻(qiang),共修五(wu)百余步,并(bing)在北(bei)門(men)、東門(men)、大南門(men)和(he)小南門(men)外包(bao)以月城(cheng)。以六門(men)之上再建城(cheng)樓(lou),使六門(men)煥然一新(xin)。這次建設使府城(cheng)有了完備的城(cheng)和(he)池。
明(ming)天(tian)順年間(1457-1464),曾(ceng)短時間內封過朝京(jing)門(men)(men)(水亭(ting)門(men)(men)),并(bing)在城西北角文(wen)昌閣開挖西安門(men)(men),自(zi)此衢州(zhou)(zhou)六門(men)(men)就有了(le)第(di)七個門(men)(men),此后明(ming)清時期又修葺城垣百(bai)余次,由此奠定了(le)衢州(zhou)(zhou)的基(ji)礎。
衢州府城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)直是保護完好的城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)防,民國五年(1916)以前(qian)(qian)還曾(ceng)對城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻進行修(xiu)葺(qi),而第(di)一(yi)次的破壞(huai)就是在解放前(qian)(qian)的民國時代,當(dang)時的縣長叫王超凡拓寬上下街(jie),新城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門就是在他手上打開的。
衢州府城從那(nei)以后(hou)就進(jin)入了20世紀的(de)時代(dai)變遷,之(zhi)后(hou)由于五六十年代(dai)大(da)搞農(nong)業,大(da)興(xing)土木就大(da)規模的(de)遭到了破壞。
城(cheng)(cheng)池核心是城(cheng)(cheng)隍和城(cheng)(cheng)郭,一(yi)個完整的城(cheng)(cheng)池必然少不了(le)由(you)城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)、城(cheng)(cheng)壕、月城(cheng)(cheng)、城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)、城(cheng)(cheng)樓等部分。
城(cheng)隍,道教中負責城(cheng)池的(de)地方(fang)神,也指(zhi)干涸的(de)城(cheng)壕(hao)。
城郭(guo),城指內城墻(qiang)(qiang),外(wai)城墻(qiang)(qiang)為郭(guo)。
城(cheng)墻,也叫城(cheng)垣(yuan),是城(cheng)防的主(zhu)體。
女墻(指城墻上(shang)凹凸的(de)短墻)、城堞(包圍(wei)月城的(de)城墻,也叫城垛)組成。
城壕,也叫護城河,環(huan)繞(rao)城外的水體。
月城,也(ye)叫(jiao)甕城,城門(men)外用(yong)以(yi)屏蔽(bi)城門(men)的(de)小城,月城的(de)門(men)稱城堙。
城(cheng)樓(lou),建(jian)于城(cheng)門或城(cheng)墻(qiang)之(zhi)上的樓(lou)。
城(cheng)闕,城(cheng)門兩邊的望(wang)樓。
城(cheng)(cheng)廂,指(zhi)城(cheng)(cheng)內和城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)外附近。
城根,靠近城墻的地方。
城(cheng)關,城(cheng)門外靠近城(cheng)門的(de)一帶地區(qu)。
吊橋,架在(zai)城壕上方便行(xing)路的木制斜拉橋。
現衢州(zhou)府城還保(bao)留了部分(fen)城墻和除北門(men)之(zhi)外(wai)(wai)的(de)其他城門(men),以及(ji)周邊(bian)的(de)護城河。東門(men),又名(ming)迎(ying)和門(men)、紫金門(men),門(men)外(wai)(wai)有青龍碼頭,新任官(guan)員都從(cong)此(ci)入城,門(men)外(wai)(wai)為七(qi)里街,大概因門(men)外(wai)(wai)有一送別(bie)亭名(ming)七(qi)里亭之(zhi)故。為市區和機場的(de)分(fen)界(jie)線。
小(xiao)(xiao)南門(men)(men),俗稱通仙(xian)(xian)門(men)(men),又名清輝門(men)(men)、前湖門(men)(men),據(ju)傳住在(zai)仙(xian)(xian)霞嶺、爛柯(ke)山(shan)的神仙(xian)(xian)在(zai)此出(chu)入頻繁(fan)。而且(qie)在(zai)小(xiao)(xiao)南門(men)(men)附近有(you)位惡婦(fu)壞事干盡,神仙(xian)(xian)怕她,所以三天兩(liang)頭來治她。原門(men)(men)上有(you)魁(kui)星閣(ge)為衢州八閣(ge)之一,傳說天氣晴朗(lang)的時候在(zai)城樓上能看見(jian)爛柯(ke)山(shan),門(men)(men)外有(you)魁(kui)星街。
大(da)南門(men),也叫禮賢(xian)門(men)、光(guang)遠門(men),此門(men)名(ming)得(de)禮賢(xian),原因有二,一(yi)說衢州建(jian)城(cheng)官員尉(wei)遲(chi)敬德,曾在此門(men)外迎(ying)接恩(en)師,意為禮賢(xian)下(xia)士;又一(yi)說江山縣曾經(jing)稱作禮賢(xian)縣,門(men)通(tong)禮賢(xian)故得(de)名(ming)。城(cheng)門(men)附近有空曠土(tu)地(di)俗稱花街(jie)頭,是因十五鬧(nao)元宵的隊(dui)伍都集中于此,并由此地(di)進城(cheng)。門(men)外有街(jie)名(ming)曰禮賢(xian)街(jie)。
小西門(men)(men)(men),又叫通廣門(men)(men)(men),古時城門(men)(men)(men)外埠頭眾多,船家云(yun)集,走水路可達蘇杭(hang),經大運河更是(shi)可通全國。由于保(bao)護不(bu)善,解放(fang)后,門(men)(men)(men)拱坍塌,現有城墻尚保(bao)存。門(men)(men)(men)外南側有衢州三塔(ta)(ta)之一的銅塔(ta)(ta),為鑄兵(bing)器,毀(hui)于太平天國時期。
大西(xi)門(men)(men),又稱水(shui)亭(ting)(ting)門(men)(men)、朝京(jing)門(men)(men),水(shui)亭(ting)(ting)為門(men)(men)內街(jie)名,興許(xu)是城門(men)(men)外(wai)的卷雪亭(ting)(ting),常(chang)被(bei)水(shui)漫,故(gu)作水(shui)亭(ting)(ting)。在這一(yi)(yi)區域是城中水(shui)患的又一(yi)(yi)重地,古有“水(shui)亭(ting)(ting)街(jie),街(jie)停水(shui),水(shui)亭(ting)(ting)街(jie)上(shang)漲大水(shui)”的句子(zi)。城門(men)(men)上(shang)有樓名曰碧春(chun)樓,又名西(xi)勝樓,是衢州九樓之一(yi)(yi)。門(men)(men)內天(tian)皇巷有衢州三(san)塔(ta)(ta)之一(yi)(yi)的天(tian)皇塔(ta)(ta),由于年久失(shi)修,已于五十年代中期拆除。
西安門(men),為(wei)(wei)明朝(chao)中后期(qi)才開的新門(men),位于城區西北角,門(men)面較小,門(men)內有(you)文昌閣為(wei)(wei)衢州(zhou)八閣之(zhi)一,門(men)外是烈婦祠,為(wei)(wei)表(biao)貞潔烈女而建。附近還有(you)衢州(zhou)三塔(ta)之(zhi)一的鐵塔(ta)。
北(bei)門,又名拱辰(chen)門、浮石(shi)門,門外有(you)拱辰(chen)橋(北(bei)門橋),古時(shi)外面(mian)為(wei)浮石(shi)街,此(ci)門已(yi)于五十年(nian)代(dai)時(shi)拆除。
其下方(fang)的(de)(de)(de)小河為(wei)斗潭(tan)的(de)(de)(de)東出水(shui)口。城墻內原(yuan)為(wei)衢州名(ming)勝菱(ling)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)所(suo)在地,湖(hu)(hu)(hu)域面積逾千畝,攬得一方(fang)盛(sheng)景。湖(hu)(hu)(hu)南岸就是孔廟,附近有止馬(ma)灣,為(wei)水(shui)體的(de)(de)(de)一部分。清軍政大臣左宗棠任浙(zhe)江巡撫期間,平復太平天(tian)國(guo)后(hou)便(bian)在城中大興農業(ye),將菱(ling)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)開渠出水(shui),填湖(hu)(hu)(hu)為(wei)田。
新城(cheng)(cheng)門,是民(min)國初期為(wei)了方便交通,把上街頭上的城(cheng)(cheng)墻扒去,并(bing)拆除(chu)了附(fu)近攔路的土地祠,那(nei)打通的城(cheng)(cheng)墻部分(fen)就叫(jiao)做新城(cheng)(cheng)門。從此上下街被打通,成了衢(qu)州主干道(dao),解(jie)放后(hou)還是320國道(dao)的一部分(fen)。
鐵衢門,早(zao)些年在環城東(dong)路(lu)拐(guai)角的地方還能看到,那是90年代建(jian)的景(jing)觀門,舊城改造,府山擴建(jian)后就拆除了。
南湖(hu),這是衢州人熟(shu)悉的(de)一條護城(cheng)河了,河上原有大南門(men)、小南門(men)兩座吊橋,現已經都改成鋼精水(shui)泥(ni)橋了。
斗潭,是(shi)北面的(de)護城河,保存較好,所謂(wei)斗潭就是(shi)說潭大如斗,是(shi)指斗潭小的(de)原因,其實斗潭不小,全(quan)長750米,平均(jun)寬度(du)也(ye)在25米以上。
西溪(xi)衢(qu)江,是(shi)衢(qu)州西面天然的(de)屏(ping)障,故名(ming)西溪(xi)、濲水、信安(an)江等。也衢(qu)州水運的(de)主要商(shang)業(ye)航道。寬可大二(er)三百米。
東濠,濠為護城河(he)(he),原(yuan)先的水運河(he)(he)流青龍(long)碼頭已(yi)經(jing)不(bu)在了,剩下(xia)的是(shi)被分割(ge)成的一(yi)塊(kuai)塊(kuai)魚塘,還有(you)待疏浚。