簡介
富(fu)(fu)春(chun)(chun)江國家水利風(feng)(feng)景區位于錢塘江上游(you)。自從(cong)東漢(han)初年(nian)嚴(yan)(yan)子(zi)陵隱居(ju)于此以后,這(zhe)一帶真是(shi)“人(ren)(ren)杰(jie)地靈”,出了(le)不少文學家、詩人(ren)(ren)、畫(hua)家、英雄(xiong)豪杰(jie)。悠悠兩千年(nian),稱頌富(fu)(fu)春(chun)(chun)山水和嚴(yan)(yan)子(zi)陵的詩詞歌賦、文章圖畫(hua),汗牛充棟。到(dao)了(le)元朝,李桓(huan)名(ming)詩《富(fu)(fu)春(chun)(chun)舟中》,劈頭兩句便是(shi)“天下(xia)佳山水,古今(jin)(jin)推富(fu)(fu)春(chun)(chun)”,這(zhe)是(shi)古人(ren)(ren)對富(fu)(fu)春(chun)(chun)江的贊譽。“不是(shi)漓(li)江,勝似漓(li)江”,這(zhe)是(shi)今(jin)(jin)人(ren)(ren)對富(fu)(fu)春(chun)(chun)江的評(ping)價,人(ren)(ren)們還把它與長江三峽、桂(gui)林漓(li)江并(bing)稱為我國最著名(ming)的三條江河風(feng)(feng)光(guang)游(you)覽線。
富(fu)春江景區以奇山(shan)異水聞名(ming)(ming)。其中(zhong)(zhong),申(shen)屠山(shan)和天子(zi)崗可(ke)謂奇山(shan)了(le)。申(shen)屠山(shan)屬富(fu)陽(yang)市,在(zai)富(fu)春江南岸,離東梓只有(you)(you)(you)三(san)公(gong)里(li)左右(you)。宋朝人(ren)陳剛(gang)中(zhong)(zhong)有(you)(you)(you)《申(shen)屠山(shan)記》一篇,說這個(ge)山(shan)“峰巒重復(fu),端若(ruo)拱揖,應接(jie)不暇。湍水怪石,神刻鬼劃,千巧(qiao)萬(wan)(wan)狀。中(zhong)(zhong)有(you)(you)(you)平田,如設萬(wan)(wan)席。挺(ting)然僧(seng)寺(si)(si),出(chu)于(yu)(yu)林表。佳木修竹,左右(you)交翠(cui)。此(ci)申(shen)屠剛(gang)違(wei)新(xin)室(王(wang)莽篡漢,改國號為(wei)新(xin))之禍,申(shen)屠蟠晦(hui)黨錮之名(ming)(ming),避地(di)結廬(lu),于(yu)(yu)今千載(zai),子(zi)孫因家(jia)焉。支派分衍,至(zhi)百余(yu)室。因姓而名(ming)(ming)其山(shan),山(shan)之陽(yang)復(fu)以申(shen)屠志(zhi)其地(di)。”原(yuan)來山(shan)上有(you)(you)(you)一古廟(miao)名(ming)(ming)大雄(xiong)寺(si)(si),建于(yu)(yu)唐(tang)長興三(san)年。唐(tang)末有(you)(you)(you)一高(gao)僧(seng)禪月(yue)尊者,曾在(zai)寺(si)(si)內(nei)(nei)畫十(shi)(shi)六羅漢(羅漢系印度傳入,本來只有(you)(you)(you)十(shi)(shi)六,宋時有(you)(you)(you)人(ren)添(tian)加了(le)兩個(ge),從(cong)此(ci)變成十(shi)(shi)八),栩栩如生。據傳第十(shi)(shi)六尊,還是(shi)照著(zhu)他自(zi)己(ji)的(de)(de)相貌畫的(de)(de)。這位高(gao)僧(seng)不僅(jin)善(shan)畫,而且工詩(shi)(shi)。剛(gang)到杭州(zhou)(zhou),住在(zai)給事中(zhong)(zhong)羅隱家(jia)里(li),作詩(shi)(shi)甚(shen)多,中(zhong)(zhong)有(you)(you)(you)名(ming)(ming)句“一瓶一缽垂垂老,千水千山(shan)得(de)得(de)來”。羅甚(shen)為(wei)贊賞,推(tui)薦(jian)給吳越(yue)王(wang)錢镠(liu)。錢镠(liu)見(jian)其所獻(xian)詩(shi)(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)有(you)(you)(you)句“一劍寒霜(shuang)十(shi)(shi)四(si)州(zhou)(zhou)”,就(jiu)命人(ren)請他把“十(shi)(shi)四(si)州(zhou)(zhou)”改成“四(si)十(shi)(shi)州(zhou)(zhou)”。因為(wei)當時唐(tang)室凌(ling)替,群(qun)雄(xiong)并起,錢镠(liu)在(zai)占領吳越(yue)十(shi)(shi)四(si)州(zhou)(zhou)之后(hou),想(xiang)南取王(wang)審知(zhi)的(de)(de)福(fu)州(zhou)(zhou),北(bei)取楊行密的(de)(de)揚州(zhou)(zhou),拓“十(shi)(shi)四(si)州(zhou)(zhou)”為(wei)“四(si)十(shi)(shi)州(zhou)(zhou)”。原(yuan)本以為(wei)自(zi)己(ji)貴為(wei)王(wang)侯,叫一個(ge)討飯和尚改一句詩(shi)(shi),自(zi)不在(zai)話(hua)下(xia)。哪里(li)知(zhi)道(dao)(dao)這位禪月(yue)和尚,偏(pian)(pian)偏(pian)(pian)不買他的(de)(de)賬(zhang),答道(dao)(dao):“州(zhou)(zhou)亦(yi)不可(ke)添(tian),詩(shi)(shi)亦(yi)不可(ke)改。孤云野鶴,何天不可(ke)飛?”說完拿了(le)錫杖,離開杭州(zhou)(zhou),就(jiu)到此(ci)山(shan),在(zai)大雄(xiong)寺(si)(si)內(nei)(nei)留下(xia)真跡(ji)。
天(tian)子崗(gang)一名白鶴(he)峰。因山(shan)(shan)石皆烏色,奇形怪狀,又(you)名烏石山(shan)(shan),離(li)東梓關五(wu)公(gong)(gong)里左右,同申(shen)屠山(shan)(shan)遙(yao)遙(yao)相對。這(zhe)座(zuo)山(shan)(shan)原本(ben)沒有(you)什么大(da)名氣,后(hou)來東漢孝子孫鐘把母親葬(zang)在(zai)這(zhe)里。孫鐘者,孫堅的(de)爸爸,孫策(ce)、孫權(quan)的(de)爺爺也。因為孫子做了皇(huang)帝,有(you)人(ren)就(jiu)(jiu)說祖母葬(zang)的(de)地(di)方(fang)風水(shui)好,所(suo)以就(jiu)(jiu)稱之為天(tian)子崗(gang)了。妙(miao)(miao)就(jiu)(jiu)妙(miao)(miao)在(zai)這(zhe)座(zuo)山(shan)(shan)是這(zhe)一帶的(de)最(zui)高(gao)峰,頂上(shang)有(you)一塊(kuai)大(da)平地(di)。站在(zai)崗(gang)上(shang)近覷:群山(shan)(shan)環(huan)繞(rao)腳下,有(you)似(si)百官(guan)朝天(tian)子,倒有(you)點“碧眼兒坐領(ling)江東”的(de)氣概;遠眺:江水(shui)曲曲彎彎,大(da)桐(tong)洲上(shang)綠樹環(huan)繞(rao),桃花(hua)盛開季節,堆錦疊繡,五(wu)彩繽紛,使(shi)人(ren)眼花(hua)繚(liao)亂。環(huan)山(shan)(shan)四周,有(you)大(da)批名勝古(gu)跡,如(ru)小蓬(peng)萊、仙(xian)人(ren)洞、百步山(shan)(shan)、樂(le)村廟、天(tian)香(xiang)寺等(deng)數十處,不(bu)知道(dao)(dao)目前怎樣了。桐(tong)廬(lu)江景,自(zi)古(gu)稱道(dao)(dao)煙(yan)雨(yu)。每(mei)當細雨(yu)霏霏的(de)時(shi)候(hou),坐船在(zai)江面(mian)(mian)上(shang)駛(shi)過,近覷,水(shui)面(mian)(mian)漣(lian)漪回環(huan)不(bu)絕(jue),山(shan)(shan)影樹影連成一片,無(wu)風自(zi)搖;遠看(kan),“綠樹蒼煙(yan)望欲迷”,但(dan)見遠山(shan)(shan)長,云山(shan)(shan)亂,近山(shan)(shan)青。加之岸邊幾個(ge)釣客身(shen)披雨(yu)衣,執竿凝神而坐,儼然一幅絕(jue)妙(miao)(miao)的(de)“春江煙(yan)雨(yu)圖”。江岸上(shang)峭壁高(gao)聳,群山(shan)(shan)連綿不(bu)絕(jue):牛(niu)山(shan)(shan),又(you)名牌門(men)山(shan)(shan),從東到西,恰巧十里,所(suo)以又(you)稱十里牌門(men);內逼山(shan)(shan),外瞰江,山(shan)(shan)路崎嶇(qu)屈曲,古(gu)為閩(min)廣皖(wan)浙通(tong)道(dao)(dao),現在(zai)已經(jing)修鳥道(dao)(dao)為公(gong)(gong)路。金(jin)雞山(shan)(shan),極似(si)公(gong)(gong)雞,古(gu)人(ren)有(you)詩:“天(tian)上(shang)金(jin)雞種,何時(shi)墜此山(shan)(shan)?只因鳴有(you)信,流落在(zai)人(ren)間。”
過了(le)(le)十(shi)里(li)牌門,可(ke)見富春(chun)江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)電站大(da)壩(ba)(ba)橫截在(zai)江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)面上(shang)(shang),此壩(ba)(ba)高36米(mi),是新安江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)大(da)壩(ba)(ba)的(de)(de)三分(fen)之一多點。壩(ba)(ba)內(nei)壩(ba)(ba)外,水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)位相差二三十(shi)米(mi)。船(chuan)(chuan)過大(da)壩(ba)(ba),先要(yao)進(jin)入壩(ba)(ba)內(nei)船(chuan)(chuan)塢,然后(hou)關(guan)上(shang)(shang)后(hou)閘(zha)門放水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui),等(deng)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)漲船(chuan)(chuan)高,與壩(ba)(ba)內(nei)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)庫(ku)(ku)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)面平齊,前閘(zha)門才徐徐落入水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)中,船(chuan)(chuan)即穿閘(zha)門駛入富春(chun)江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)庫(ku)(ku)。穿壩(ba)(ba)而出,便進(jin)入一個“神仙世(shi)界”:富春(chun)江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)最主要(yao)的(de)(de)風景(jing)區(qu)——嚴子陵釣(diao)臺(tai)(tai)。這里(li)原名嚴瀨。上(shang)(shang)世(shi)紀60年代,利用兩(liang)山夾峙(zhi)的(de)(de)自然條(tiao)件,建設富春(chun)江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)電站,修(xiu)了(le)(le)一個水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)庫(ku)(ku),灘深流急的(de)(de)嚴瀨,便成了(le)(le)一個波平如鏡(jing)的(de)(de)人工(gong)湖(hu)。船(chuan)(chuan)就停在(zai)離水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)壩(ba)(ba)一里(li)多路(lu)的(de)(de)地方。原來沿江(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)有一條(tiao)小路(lu)直(zhi)通釣(diao)臺(tai)(tai),修(xiu)了(le)(le)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)庫(ku)(ku),路(lu)已淹(yan)沒,去釣(diao)臺(tai)(tai)必須坐(zuo)蘆茨(ci)公(gong)社的(de)(de)渡船(chuan)(chuan),在(zai)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)庫(ku)(ku)上(shang)(shang)行三四里(li),方到達釣(diao)臺(tai)(tai)腳下。
所謂釣(diao)臺(tai)(tai),其實是突(tu)出富(fu)春(chun)山(shan)腰的兩(liang)(liang)(liang)塊大(da)磐石(shi)(shi),高(gao)度相仿,東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)對(dui)峙,天造地設(she),確是天下少見。富(fu)春(chun)山(shan)一(yi)名(ming)嚴(yan)陵山(shan),在桐廬縣城(cheng)西(xi)(xi)四十(shi)(shi)里。山(shan)高(gao)193米,迤邐七(qi)里。《圖經(jing)》上說:“嚴(yan)陵山(shan)清(qing)(qing)麗奇絕,號錦峰繡嶺。”凡是到(dao)(dao)過此地的人,都認為(wei)這(zhe)(zhe)八(ba)個(ge)(ge)字并非過譽(yu)。連(lian)接東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)兩(liang)(liang)(liang)臺(tai)(tai)的一(yi)條(tiao)山(shan)脊(ji)上,中(zhong)間有(you)一(yi)石(shi)(shi)亭(ting)(ting),用七(qi)八(ba)十(shi)(shi)塊條(tiao)石(shi)(shi)砌嵌(qian)而(er)成,不(bu)用一(yi)根木料,也(ye)不(bu)用一(yi)點(dian)水泥。長方形,面積約(yue)二十(shi)(shi)平方,式(shi)樣樸素大(da)方。這(zhe)(zhe)就是過去的雙(shuang)清(qing)(qing)亭(ting)(ting)。據了(le)解(jie),東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)釣(diao)臺(tai)(tai)上面原來都沒(mei)有(you)建(jian)筑(zhu)。一(yi)直到(dao)(dao)明朝正(zheng)統元年(1436年),嚴(yan)州知府在東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)兩(liang)(liang)(liang)臺(tai)(tai)各建(jian)一(yi)亭(ting)(ting),刻石(shi)(shi)為(wei)額(e),東(dong)(dong)曰(yue)“不(bu)事王侯”,西(xi)(xi)曰(yue)“高(gao)尚其志”,明末被(bei)(bei)毀。到(dao)(dao)清(qing)(qing)乾隆(long)十(shi)(shi)九年(1754年),再由羅氏(shi)兄弟(di)復(fu)建(jian)。西(xi)(xi)臺(tai)(tai)亭(ting)(ting)上石(shi)(shi)額(e)改(gai)為(wei)“留(liu)絲(si)一(yi)鼎”,東(dong)(dong)臺(tai)(tai)亭(ting)(ting)上石(shi)(shi)額(e)改(gai)為(wei)“垂竿百尺(chi)”。后(hou)來,西(xi)(xi)臺(tai)(tai)亭(ting)(ting)又壞(huai)掉,到(dao)(dao)民(min)國初年再重(zhong)建(jian)。除這(zhe)(zhe)兩(liang)(liang)(liang)個(ge)(ge)石(shi)(shi)亭(ting)(ting)外,1925年廣(guang)東(dong)(dong)人陳煥之又在這(zhe)(zhe)個(ge)(ge)山(shan)脊(ji)上建(jian)了(le)這(zhe)(zhe)個(ge)(ge)雙(shuang)清(qing)(qing)亭(ting)(ting)。現在亭(ting)(ting)上石(shi)(shi)額(e)已被(bei)(bei)砸毀。左(zuo)右石(shi)(shi)柱上的對(dui)聯,字跡約(yue)略可辨:“遠道息塵(chen)勞,向此間坐石(shi)(shi)看云,放(fang)懷宇(yu)宙(zhou);高(gao)臺(tai)(tai)瞻勝跡,羨(xian)當(dang)日耕(geng)山(shan)釣(diao)水,俯視王侯。”
極目遠(yuan)望(wang)東南,這一帶的(de)最(zui)(zui)高(gao)(gao)峰(feng)(feng)高(gao)(gao)龍門(men)直沖云(yun)霄,峰(feng)(feng)頸白(bai)(bai)(bai)云(yun)繚繞;峰(feng)(feng)前(qian)峰(feng)(feng)左峰(feng)(feng)右(you),群山(shan)(shan)(shan)環抱;最(zui)(zui)多的(de)地方(fang),有(you)六重山(shan)(shan)(shan),層(ceng)層(ceng)相疊。遠(yuan)處天邊,白(bai)(bai)(bai)云(yun)破(po)處,一抹藍天,晶瑩澄(cheng)澈,似(si)藍非(fei)藍,似(si)青(qing)(qing)非(fei)青(qing)(qing)。夕陽返照,光怪陸離,遠(yuan)遠(yuan)望(wang)去(qu),似(si)有(you)仙子乘鸞來去(qu)。正南,山(shan)(shan)(shan)坡上遍種(zhong)橘樹。迤西(xi),也是一山(shan)(shan)(shan)接一山(shan)(shan)(shan),一峰(feng)(feng)連一峰(feng)(feng),山(shan)(shan)(shan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)俱(ju)青(qing)(qing),峰(feng)(feng)峰(feng)(feng)皆秀。“錦峰(feng)(feng)繡嶺(ling)”,果然名(ming)不(bu)虛傳。俯視(shi)腳下(xia),一條清(qing)江,依山(shan)(shan)(shan)而流;萬頃碧(bi)波,風平浪靜;幾點白(bai)(bai)(bai)帆,飄蕩其間。黃(huang)公望(wang)的(de)杰作《富春山(shan)(shan)(shan)居圖》將此(ci)情此(ci)景描繪(hui)得恰到(dao)好處。雖然時隔七百年(nian),眼下(xia)的(de)清(qing)江已非(fei)昔日的(de)急流,但是,風景、意境依然未(wei)變。“人在畫圖中(zhong)”,古人言之有(you)理。