長城(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)墩(dun)(dun),又(you)稱討賴河墩(dun)(dun),是嘉峪關西長城(cheng)(cheng)最(zui)南端的一(yi)座(zuo)墩(dun)(dun)臺,也是明代萬(wan)里(li)(li)長城(cheng)(cheng)最(zui)西端的一(yi)座(zuo)墩(dun)(dun)臺。長城(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)于明嘉靖(jing)十八(ba)年(公(gong)(gong)元1539)年由肅州兵備道李(li)涵監筑(zhu),北距關城(cheng)(cheng)7.5公(gong)(gong)里(li)(li),墩(dun)(dun)臺矗(chu)立(li)于討賴河邊(bian)近56米高的懸崖(ya)之上(shang)。
麓(lu),因山而名(ming)。明洪武(wu)五年(1372)修筑(zhu)萬(wan)里長城時(shi)置。當時(shi)明征虜(lu)大將軍馮(feng)勝看中(zhong)嘉(jia)峪(yu)山西(xi)北麓(lu)的險要地勢,選(xuan)為河西(xi)第一(yi)(yi)隘口,開始筑(zhu)城設關(guan),以后經歷一(yi)(yi)百多年時(shi)間擴建,才形成(cheng)一(yi)(yi)個比較完整的防(fang)御體(ti)系。明弘治年間,為防(fang)吐魯番東(dong)侵,曾(ceng)進行重修。這(zhe)關(guan)雄偉壯觀,號稱“天下第一(yi)(yi)雄關(guan)”。
萬里長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)沿線分布(bu)著許多(duo)關(guan)(guan)隘(ai),其中(zhong)(zhong)規模(mo)較大(da)的有兩(liang)座:一(yi)座是(shi)東(dong)(dong)(dong)端(duan)的山(shan)海關(guan)(guan),另一(yi)座就(jiu)(jiu)是(shi)西(xi)端(duan)的嘉(jia)(jia)峪關(guan)(guan),而(er)后(hou)者(zhe)經前者(zhe)猶有過(guo)之(zhi),所以嘉(jia)(jia)峪關(guan)(guan)是(shi)長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)上的較大(da)關(guan)(guan)隘(ai),也(ye)是(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)國規模(mo)大(da)的關(guan)(guan)隘(ai)。但(dan)嘉(jia)(jia)峪關(guan)(guan)初建時(shi)不(bu)過(guo)是(shi)一(yi)座6米(mi)高(gao)的土(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),占地2500平(ping)方(fang)米(mi)。而(er)現存的關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)總面(mian)積33.500余平(ping)方(fang)米(mi),比原來的大(da)數倍。它由外(wai)(wai)(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)、內(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)和甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)組合而(er)成(cheng)(cheng),關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周長(chang)733米(mi),就(jiu)(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)內(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周長(chang)640米(mi),面(mian)積為原先的大(da)小。內(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西(xi)寬東(dong)(dong)(dong)窄,略呈(cheng)梯形(xing),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高(gao)9米(mi),東(dong)(dong)(dong)西(xi)開“光化(hua)門(men)(men)”和“柔遠(yuan)門(men)(men)”兩(liang)門(men)(men)。門(men)(men)外(wai)(wai)(wai)各筑(zhu)有甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)對稱,三(san)層(ceng)三(san)檐五間式,周圍(wei)有廊,單(dan)檐歇山(shan)頂,高(gao)17米(mi)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)四隅有角樓(lou)、南、北(bei)墻(qiang)中(zhong)(zhong)段有敵(di)樓(lou),一(yi)層(ceng)三(san)間式帶(dai)前廊。兩(liang)門(men)(men)內(nei)北(bei)側有馬道(dao)達城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)頂。關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正中(zhong)(zhong)有一(yi)官井,舊有亭,今已廢。西(xi)門(men)(men)外(wai)(wai)(wai)套筑(zhu)一(yi)道(dao)凸形(xing)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang),構成(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)個羅(luo)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),這就(jiu)(jiu)是(shi)外(wai)(wai)(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。外(wai)(wai)(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)比內(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高(gao)2.7米(mi)。外(wai)(wai)(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正中(zhong)(zhong)大(da)門(men)(men)額刻(ke)“嘉(jia)(jia)峪關(guan)(guan)”三(san)個大(da)字。門(men)(men)頂原有城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou),與東(dong)(dong)(dong)西(xi)二樓(lou)形(xing)制(zhi)相同(tong),三(san)樓(lou)東(dong)(dong)(dong)西(xi)成(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)線。1924年城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)被毀(hui)。西(xi)面(mian)羅(luo)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)磚砌,東(dong)(dong)(dong)、南、北(bei)有土(tu)筑(zhu)圍(wei)墻(qiang),連接長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)(wai)(wai)有城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),迭(die)門(men)(men)重城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),成(cheng)(cheng)并守之(zhi)勢。東(dong)(dong)(dong)甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)(wai)(wai)有文昌閣(ge)、關(guan)(guan)帝廟、戲(xi)樓(lou),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內(nei)靠北(bei)有游擊衙門(men)(men)府(fu)一(yi)座,都是(shi)清代建筑(zhu)。新中(zhong)(zhong)國成(cheng)(cheng)立后(hou),關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)曾(ceng)多(duo)次維修加(jia)固,至今保存完好(hao)。
長(chang)(chang)城第一(yi)(yi)墩嘉(jia)(jia)(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)位(wei)于甘(gan)肅省河西(xi)走廊的(de)西(xi)端,東經98°17′、北緯39°47′,甘(gan)肅嘉(jia)(jia)(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)市(shi)向(xiang)西(xi)5公(gong)(gong)里(li)處,是(shi)明(ming)(ming)長(chang)(chang)城西(xi)端的(de)第一(yi)(yi)重關(guan)(guan)(guan),也(ye)是(shi)古代“絲綢(chou)之路(lu)”的(de)交通(tong)要沖。嘉(jia)(jia)(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)市(shi)區西(xi)南6公(gong)(gong)里(li)處,位(wei)于嘉(jia)(jia)(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)最狹(xia)窄的(de)山(shan)(shan)谷中部(bu),地勢最高(gao)的(de)嘉(jia)(jia)(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)山(shan)(shan)上,城關(guan)(guan)(guan)兩(liang)翼的(de)城墻(qiang)橫穿沙漠戈壁,向(xiang)北8公(gong)(gong)里(li)連黑(hei)山(shan)(shan)懸壁長(chang)(chang)城,向(xiang)南7公(gong)(gong)里(li),是(shi)明(ming)(ming)代萬里(li)長(chang)(chang)城西(xi)端主宰(zai),自古為(wei)河西(xi)第一(yi)(yi)隘(ai)口。嘉(jia)(jia)(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)關(guan)(guan)(guan)城,位(wei)于嘉(jia)(jia)(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)最狹(xia)窄的(de)山(shan)(shan)谷中部(bu),地勢最高(gao)的(de)嘉(jia)(jia)(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)山(shan)(shan)上,城關(guan)(guan)(guan)兩(liang)翼的(de)城墻(qiang)橫穿沙漠戈壁。嘉(jia)(jia)(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)以(yi)地勢險要,巍峨壯觀著稱于世。與萬里(li)之外的(de)“天(tian)下第一(yi)(yi)關(guan)(guan)(guan)”——山(shan)(shan)海關(guan)(guan)(guan)遙相(xiang)呼應,聞名天(tian)下。
明代,嘉峪關(guan)管轄著(zhu)(zhu)“腹里、沿邊、境外墩臺(tai)(tai)三十九(jiu)座”。關(guan)內墩臺(tai)(tai)林立,縱橫(heng)交織,相(xiang)互了望,互通情報。長城第一墩,是關(guan)南(nan)主要的一座墩臺(tai)(tai),擔(dan)負(fu)著(zhu)(zhu)傳(chuan)遞關(guan)南(nan)及祁連山諸口軍事信息的任務。設有(you)塢、驛(yi)馬、驛(yi)駝、食宿(su)、積薪(xin)等物(wu),配備有(you)一定數量的守兵。
長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)景(jing)區自(zi)然景(jing)致壯(zhuang)觀,東臨(lin)酒泉,西連荒漠,北(bei)依(yi)嘉峪,南望祁連,討賴河(he)水滔(tao)滔(tao)東去。極目南眺,山峰終年潔白,襯映著(zhu)藍色天(tian)空,更覺(jue)清(qing)新如(ru)畫。正所謂“余收遠岫和云(yun)濕,風度疏林帶(dai)舞飄”。景(jing)區面(mian)積約(yue)3.22平方(fang)公里。景(jing)區包括長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)、綜合服(fu)務區、討賴河(he)滑索、討賴客棧、天(tian)險(xian)吊橋(qiao)、“醉(zui)臥(wo)沙場”雕塑群、“中(zhong)(zhong)華(hua)(hua)龍林”等內(nei)容。長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)于明嘉靖(jing)十(shi)八(ba)年(公元(yuan)1539)年由肅州兵(bing)備道李涵(han)監筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu),北(bei)距關(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)7.5公里,墩(dun)(dun)臺(tai)矗立于討賴河(he)邊近56米(mi)高(gao)(gao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)懸崖(ya)之上。對于它的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)雄險(xian),著(zhu)名長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)專家羅哲文先生(sheng)曾(ceng)經有(you)過(guo)生(sheng)動的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)吟詠:“嘉峪關(guan),雄險(xian)畫皆難(nan),墩(dun)(dun)堡遙(yao)遙(yao)相(xiang)互望,長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)道道連關(guan)山,猿臂也難(nan)攀”。在一(yi)萬多(duo)華(hua)(hua)里的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)明代長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)線上,墩(dun)(dun)臺(tai)無數(shu),密如(ru)繁(fan)星(xing),而嘉峪關(guan)長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)與河(he)北(bei)山海關(guan)渤海之濱(bin)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)“老龍頭”遙(yao)相(xiang)呼應(ying),共同構筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)起中(zhong)(zhong)華(hua)(hua)長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“龍”的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)首尾,成就了中(zhong)(zhong)華(hua)(hua)民族(zu)“龍”的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)美(mei)名。如(ru)果(guo)說長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)是(shi)(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)華(hua)(hua)民族(zu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)豐(feng)(feng)碑,那么長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)就是(shi)(shi)這座(zuo)豐(feng)(feng)碑崛起的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)地方(fang)。現(xian)在,這座(zuo)墩(dun)(dun)臺(tai)殘(can)高(gao)(gao)約(yue)10米(mi),其底(di)部呈不規則正方(fang)形(xing),底(di)寬14米(mi),內(nei)部仍呈正方(fang)形(xing),長寬均為6米(mi)。用黃土夯筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)而成,夯土層厚(hou)10~20厘(li)米(mi)。“長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)”碑文由已故的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)西路軍將領魏傳統題寫,字跡飄逸灑(sa)脫,清(qing)秀雋永。
依托長(chang)城第(di)(di)一(yi)墩(dun)開發建設的(de)旅游景區,自然景致壯(zhuang)觀(guan),東邊(bian)是(shi)群樓林(lin)立的(de)嘉峪(yu)關(guan)市區,西邊(bian)是(shi)浩瀚無際的(de)大漠(mo)戈(ge)壁,北(bei)邊(bian)與雄偉壯(zhuang)觀(guan)的(de)嘉峪(yu)關(guan)相(xiang)連(lian),南面(mian)為(wei)連(lian)綿起伏的(de)祁(qi)連(lian)雪山,腳下是(shi)發源于祁(qi)連(lian)山的(de)討(tao)賴河。長(chang)城第(di)(di)一(yi)墩(dun)旅游景區,以長(chang)城文化和(he)絲綢(chou)之路文化為(wei)內涵,以戈(ge)壁風(feng)(feng)光和(he)西北(bei)民俗風(feng)(feng)情為(wei)基(ji)礎,是(shi)一(yi)處觀(guan)光、探險、休閑、娛樂(le)、懷古游歷(li)和(he)拍攝(she)影(ying)視場景的(de)好地方。