雷(lei)官(guan)(guan)(guan)板(ban)鴨,安(an)徽省(sheng)來(lai)安(an)縣水鄉小鎮雷(lei)官(guan)(guan)(guan)久(jiu)負盛名(ming)的傳(chuan)統名(ming)菜,因其產地來(lai)安(an)縣雷(lei)官(guan)(guan)(guan)集(ji)而得名(ming)。起源(yuan)于清同治年間,板(ban)鴨制(zhi)作采用宰、鹵、晾、煮四道工序。板(ban)鴨外(wai)表色澤(ze)光潔,呈乳白色,食之肥而不膩,松(song)嫩可口(kou),咸淡(dan)適中,味鮮醇香,誘(you)人(ren)進食。
民間評價為:“薄如(ru)萬片(pian)(pian)糕,嫩(nen)得(de)不用(yong)嚼(jiao)”。雷(lei)官(guan)(guan)(guan)板(ban)(ban)鴨(ya)(ya)一直暢銷(xiao)大(da)(da)江南(nan)北(bei),深受消(xiao)費者喜愛。雷(lei)官(guan)(guan)(guan)板(ban)(ban)鴨(ya)(ya)是(shi)來安縣(xian)水鄉小(xiao)鎮雷(lei)官(guan)(guan)(guan)久負盛名的傳統特產(chan)(chan),自清朝(chao)同治元年(nian)(nian)(nian)(1862)問世以(yi)來,以(yi)其精湛的加(jia)工(gong)(gong)方(fang)式和獨(du)特的風味享譽大(da)(da)江南(nan)北(bei)。1958年(nian)(nian)(nian),中央新聞紀(ji)錄(lu)電影(ying)制(zhi)片(pian)(pian)廠在雷(lei)官(guan)(guan)(guan)鎮拍攝了從飼(si)養(yang)到加(jia)工(gong)(gong)板(ban)(ban)鴨(ya)(ya)全過(guo)程的紀(ji)錄(lu)片(pian)(pian)《興旺圖》。1997年(nian)(nian)(nian),“雷(lei)官(guan)(guan)(guan)牌”板(ban)(ban)鴨(ya)(ya)被評為安徽省鄉鎮企(qi)業(ye)優質產(chan)(chan)品。1998年(nian)(nian)(nian)榮獲“安徽名牌農產(chan)(chan)品”稱(cheng)號(hao)。 古鎮雷(lei)官(guan)(guan)(guan)位于來安縣(xian)南(nan)部圩(wei)區(qu),當地河流縱橫,水質清澈,植被良好,四季溫(wen)差小(xiao),適宜養(yang)鴨(ya)(ya)子。雷(lei)官(guan)(guan)(guan)鎮歷史(shi)上就因家家戶戶養(yang)鴨(ya)(ya)、加(jia)工(gong)(gong)板(ban)(ban)鴨(ya)(ya)而被譽為“板(ban)(ban)鴨(ya)(ya)之鄉”。1984年(nian)(nian)(nian),雷(lei)官(guan)(guan)(guan)鎮成立了板(ban)(ban)鴨(ya)(ya)廠,1997年(nian)(nian)(nian)改制(zhi)為皖東雷(lei)官(guan)(guan)(guan)禽業(ye)有限公司。目前,該鎮已形成種鴨(ya)(ya)飼(si)養(yang)、飼(si)料加(jia)工(gong)(gong)、苗(miao)禽孵化(hua)、商品鴨(ya)(ya)飼(si)養(yang)、加(jia)工(gong)(gong)、銷(xiao)售一條(tiao)龍的經營體系(xi)。主要產(chan)(chan)品有板(ban)(ban)鴨(ya)(ya)、紅(hong)扒鴨(ya)(ya)、桂(gui)花鴨(ya)(ya)、烤鴨(ya)(ya)、白條(tiao)鴨(ya)(ya)以(yi)及鴨(ya)(ya)掌(zhang)、翅、肫、舌、心、腸等小(xiao)包裝食品。產(chan)(chan)品銷(xiao)往(wang)全國大(da)(da)中城(cheng)市,深受廣(guang)大(da)(da)消(xiao)費者的青睞。
雷官板(ban)鴨系選用當(dang)地麻鴨或(huo)瘦(shou)肉(rou)型櫻桃谷鴨,經陳(chen)年老鹵、傳(chuan)統配(pei)方(fang)加現代工藝精細(xi)制作而成。其過程概括為(wei)“炒鹽腌,清鹵覆,晾得(de)(de)干(gan),焐(wu)得(de)(de)足”,這樣做出(chu)的板(ban)鴨方(fang)能“皮白、肉(rou)紅(hong)、骨頭綠”。據傳(chuan),清朝(chao)同治年間(jian),雷官鎮一位(wei)名(ming)(ming)叫謝復興的人,他以陳(chen)年老鹵、祖傳(chuan)秘(mi)方(fang)制出(chu)的板(ban)鴨肉(rou)質細(xi)嫩緊密(mi),入口香酥嫩滑,得(de)(de)到了官府(fu)的推(tui)賞,在(zai)長江兩岸十數個(ge)縣市享有盛名(ming)(ming),故(gu)雷官板(ban)鴨當(dang)時又稱“謝復興”板(ban)鴨。
雷(lei)官板鴨(ya)從選料制作至成熟,有一套傳(chuan)統方法和(he)要(yao)求。其要(yao)訣(jue)是“鴨(ya)要(yao)肥,喂(wei)稻谷,炒(chao)鹽腌(a),清鹵復,烘得(de)干,焐得(de)足,皮白,肉紅(hong)、骨(gu)頭酥(su)”。制作板鴨(ya)的(de)鴨(ya)要(yao)體長、身寬,胸部及(ji)兩腿肌肉飽滿,兩腋有核桃肉,去毛后體重1.75公(gong)斤以(yi)上,宰殺前要(yao)用稻谷催肥。
煮熟的(de)(de)雷官板鴨(ya)(ya)切盤后,有四句話描繪它:“薄如方片糕,嫩得不用嚼,咸(xian)淡隨口(kou)味,一(yi)咬油直冒(mao)。”蒸(zheng)煮板鴨(ya)(ya)的(de)(de)方法很講究。煮前,用溫水(shui)(shui)洗凈表面皮層,在(zai)溫水(shui)(shui)中浸(jin)泡,直至鴨(ya)(ya)肉回軟。煮制(zhi)時,水(shui)(shui)中放少許拍碎的(de)(de)生姜、蔥(cong)、兩(liang)粒(li)茴香,并將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)茴香一(yi)粒(li),蔥(cong)一(yi)根(gen)、姜數片,從(cong)鴨(ya)(ya)翅下開口(kou)處塞人肚內(nei),再(zai)用一(yi)根(gen)長(chang)約4厘(li)米的(de)(de)斜面空(kong)(kong)心竹管,插入鴨(ya)(ya)肛門半截(jie),以利湯汁在(zai)煮時內(nei)外對流(liu)(liu)。要先將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)鍋(guo)中冷(leng)水(shui)(shui)燒溫,將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)鴨(ya)(ya)子放進去;腹內(nei)灌(guan)(guan)滿(man)(man)(man)鍋(guo)內(nei)的(de)(de)水(shui)(shui),浸(jin)兩(liang)分鐘(zhong)后拎鴨(ya)(ya)脖提起(qi),使(shi)腹內(nei)的(de)(de)水(shui)(shui)通過(guo)竹管流(liu)(liu)空(kong)(kong),再(zai)灌(guan)(guan)滿(man)(man)(man)鍋(guo)內(nei)的(de)(de)水(shui)(shui),蓋上鍋(guo)蓋,把(ba)水(shui)(shui)溫升到(dao)90度,浸(jin)煮15分鐘(zhong)。第二次將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)鴨(ya)(ya)腹中水(shui)(shui)流(liu)(liu)空(kong)(kong),灌(guan)(guan)滿(man)(man)(man)鍋(guo)內(nei)的(de)(de)水(shui)(shui),并將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)鴨(ya)(ya)子翻身,再(zai)溫火煮20分鐘(zhong),將(jiang)(jiang)(jiang)水(shui)(shui)燒沸,停火焐10分鐘(zhong),撈起(qi)稍加(jia)冷(leng)卻后即可(ke)食用。
雷官板(ban)鴨(ya)不僅是來(lai)(lai)安(an)人(ren)招待賓客(ke)、饋贈親友的(de)佳品,也(ye)是地來(lai)(lai)客(ke)、臺(tai)灣同(tong)胞、海外(wai)僑胞慕名前來(lai)(lai)品嘗(chang)的(de)美(mei)味。它(ta)吸引許(xu)許(xu)多(duo)多(duo)的(de)人(ren)來(lai)(lai)到(dao)這里,吃鴨(ya),談鴨(ya),看(kan)鴨(ya)。