楊凌蘸水面是陜西(xi)一種(zhong)地(di)方小吃。面白(bai)薄筋光、油汪蒜(suan)辣香、湯面分盆(pen)裝、越(yue)嚼口(kou)越(yue)香。楊凌蘸水面的(de)(de)(de)面和湯是分開的(de)(de)(de),吃的(de)(de)(de)時候從大面盆(pen)里(li)夾出寬(kuan)厚且長的(de)(de)(de)面條拉到(dao)碗里(li)的(de)(de)(de)湯中,然后(hou)夾著面條一口(kou)一口(kou)地(di)咬著吃。
陜(shan)人(ren)(ren)點菜請(qing)客,多為(wei)涼菜,少不(bu)得(de)(de)(de)鳳翔臘驢肉,普集燒雞,西(xi)(xi)鄉(xiang)牛肉干,老(lao)童家臘牛肉,三(san)原白(bai)(bai)封肉,寶(bao)雞葵花(hua)雞等,可(ke)以不(bu)上(shang)一(yi)(yi)個(ge)熱菜,冬天亦吃(chi)(chi)(chi)得(de)(de)(de)鼻尖冒(mao)汗(han),而(er)我卻若(ruo)滿腹(fu)凝(ning)霜。于(yu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),熱面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條浩(hao)浩(hao)蕩(dang)(dang)(dang)蕩(dang)(dang)(dang)上(shang)來(lai)(lai)了,之(zhi)所以使用浩(hao)蕩(dang)(dang)(dang)二字,實因面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)盛在(zai)(zai)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)臉盆(pen)(pen)里(li)(li)端上(shang)來(lai)(lai)的,在(zai)(zai)陜(shan)西(xi)(xi)這里(li)(li)當然(ran)(ran)就叫(jiao)(jiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen),是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)裝面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen)而(er)非(fei)洗(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen),在(zai)(zai)贛南則真(zhen)(zhen)的是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)叫(jiao)(jiao)的面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen),洗(xi)臉就叫(jiao)(jiao)洗(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)呢(ni)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條端上(shang)來(lai)(lai),熱汽騰(teng)騰(teng),菜青面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)白(bai)(bai),又波清(qing)霧(wu)白(bai)(bai),各人(ren)(ren)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)前(qian)就上(shang)了一(yi)(yi)只大碗(wan)(wan),碗(wan)(wan)中(zhong)(zhong)就有(you)(you)湯(tang),西(xi)(xi)紅柿、蛋(dan)花(hua)、姜(jiang)、蒜、紅辣(la)椒、口蘑(mo)、玉蘭片、海(hai)參、干貝等,微酸,略辣(la),就從大面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen)里(li)(li)夾出(chu)寬(kuan)厚且(qie)(qie)長的面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條,泡在(zai)(zai)湯(tang)中(zhong)(zhong),然(ran)(ran)后夾著面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條一(yi)(yi)口一(yi)(yi)口地(di)咬吃(chi)(chi)(chi)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)強筋面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),咬在(zai)(zai)口里(li)(li),滑潤,富彈性,是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)有(you)(you)張力的一(yi)(yi)種(zhong),像咬著三(san)秦大地(di)的月光。吃(chi)(chi)(chi)若(ruo)干口面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),就得(de)(de)(de)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)一(yi)(yi)口面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)湯(tang)里(li)(li)青菜,這樣就又清(qing)爽上(shang)陣(zhen)了。 住(zhu)在(zai)(zai)楊(yang)凌若(ruo)干天,方理解吃(chi)(chi)(chi)蘸水(shui)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的妙(miao)處,其(qi)實是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)圖個(ge)清(qing)爽。獨吃(chi)(chi)(chi)一(yi)(yi)根面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),幾束(shu)青菜,碗(wan)(wan)中(zhong)(zhong)可(ke)叫(jiao)(jiao)湯(tang)也(ye)(ye)可(ke)以叫(jiao)(jiao)稍子(zi),與油(you)潑(po)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的意境正好(hao)相反,那(nei)油(you)潑(po)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)糊面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、重油(you)、巨(ju)辣(la),全盤傲視川(chuan)人(ren)(ren)的姿態,陜(shan)人(ren)(ren)說:川(chuan)人(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)辣(la)在(zai)(zai)嘴上(shang),陜(shan)人(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)辣(la)在(zai)(zai)心里(li)(li)。意思是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)四川(chuan)人(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)辣(la)椒,只是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)叫(jiao)(jiao)得(de)(de)(de)響(xiang),而(er)陜(shan)西(xi)(xi)人(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)得(de)(de)(de)響(xiang)。人(ren)(ren)真(zhen)(zhen)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)各有(you)(you)各的可(ke)愛罷,如川(chuan)人(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),曰擔(dan)擔(dan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),令人(ren)(ren)有(you)(you)籮擔(dan)之(zhi)想,然(ran)(ran)細(xi)碗(wan)(wan)一(yi)(yi)握,面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)細(xi)如絲(si),恰是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)陜(shan)人(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的另一(yi)(yi)極端。然(ran)(ran)又有(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)發(fa)現,楊(yang)凌人(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),也(ye)(ye)包(bao)括西(xi)(xi)安人(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),皆大盆(pen)(pen)使之(zhi),其(qi)狀非(fei)魯智生不(bu)可(ke)比,然(ran)(ran)人(ren)(ren)且(qie)(qie)瘦(shou)(shou),楊(yang)凌是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)座瘦(shou)(shou)城(cheng),看上(shang)去(qu)西(xi)(xi)安也(ye)(ye)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)座瘦(shou)(shou)城(cheng),比之(zhi)肥城(cheng)北京,已(yi)經是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)俊(jun)秀(xiu)若(ruo)江南了,也(ye)(ye)許是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)城(cheng)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)一(yi)(yi)些的原因。 吃(chi)(chi)(chi)罷楊(yang)凌蘸水(shui)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),訪西(xi)(xi)北農(nong)(nong)林(lin)大學(xue)(xue)古(gu)農(nong)(nong)史家樊志民先生,獲知:西(xi)(xi)亞考古(gu),小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)麥(mai)(mai)有(you)(you)史8千(qian)至1萬年,中(zhong)(zhong)國考古(gu),甘肅小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)麥(mai)(mai)已(yi)有(you)(you)五千(qian)年,武(wu)功則有(you)(you)3千(qian)8百年。多數農(nong)(nong)史學(xue)(xue)家認定(ding)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)麥(mai)(mai)由(you)西(xi)(xi)亞傳入,先西(xi)(xi)北而(er)黃(huang)淮地(di)區種(zhong)植,古(gu)時小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)麥(mai)(mai)不(bu)叫(jiao)(jiao)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)麥(mai)(mai),叫(jiao)(jiao)“來(lai)(lai)”,是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)繁寫的那(nei)個(ge)“來(lai)(lai)”,大麥(mai)(mai)且(qie)(qie)叫(jiao)(jiao)“麰(mou)”。巨(ju)獲益(yi),坦坦然(ran)(ran)飽腹(fu)而(er)歸。
第一步:面(mian)粉加入淡鹽水,用手揉(rou)(rou)成光(guang)滑的(de)面(mian)條,醒上十來分鐘再揉(rou)(rou)一次。
第二步:小(xiao)白菜、苜(mu)蓿(xu)或者芹菜等洗凈切好,西紅柿切塊,大蔥切丁,雞蛋打散。
第三步(bu):把(ba)面(mian)(mian)趕成一張大面(mian)(mian)片,切成3-5cm寬(kuan)的(de)面(mian)(mian)條待(dai)用(yong),蓋(gai)上濕布醒十來(lai)分(fen)鐘
第四步:把蔥姜蒜等在鍋里(li)爆炒,加(jia)(jia)入(ru)西紅柿(shi)翻炒,待西紅柿(shi)略化開加(jia)(jia)入(ru)適量水,煮(zhu)開加(jia)(jia)入(ru)鹽、味精(jing)、胡椒粉(fen)、醬油等。
第(di)五步:燒水下面(mian)(mian)(mian)條,下面(mian)(mian)(mian)條時用力(li)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)條至原(yuan)來的2倍(bei)多,再(zai)(zai)反復的用力(li)彈面(mian)(mian)(mian),把面(mian)(mian)(mian)的韌性釋放,放入鍋(guo)中,鍋(guo)里面(mian)(mian)(mian)第(di)一次開鍋(guo)后,放入小白菜、苜蓿或(huo)者(zhe)芹菜等,再(zai)(zai)次開鍋(guo)可以盛出;
第(di)六步:把做(zuo)好的湯汁(zhi)盛在碗中加(jia)入辣椒油和(he)香油,面條一根(gen)根(gen)撈(lao)到(dao)碗里食(shi)用!