用筷子攔腰將其夾起,咬(yao)下(xia)水(shui)(shui)煎(jian)(jian)包(bao)(bao)的(de)(de)上端,口中(zhong)感(gan)覺面(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)為發面(mian)(mian),泡松柔軟(ruan),亦具彈(dan)性,當(dang)然(ran)這(zhe)才是(shi)(shi)揭(jie)開了序幕,或曰揭(jie)開了解(jie)讀利津(jin)水(shui)(shui)煎(jian)(jian)包(bao)(bao)的(de)(de)蓋子。接下(xia)來是(shi)(shi)用視覺與嗅覺深刻考察(cha)水(shui)(shui)煎(jian)(jian)包(bao)(bao)的(de)(de)內(nei)部(bu),是(shi)(shi)為肉餡(xian)、蔥、韭菜、胡椒粉、姜末(mo),也略(lve)約有(you)些(xie)粉條。繼續(xu)往下(xia)吃(chi),中(zhong)部(bu)是(shi)(shi)餡(xian)與面(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)混合(he)體,味(wei)道深入了一(yi)(yi)層(ceng)。再繼續(xu)往下(xia)吃(chi),餡(xian)中(zhong)就有(you)了一(yi)(yi)些(xie)湯汁(zhi),濃厚得多(duo)的(de)(de)味(wei)道開始繞舌(she)回(hui)環,悠然(ran)綿(mian)(mian)長。吃(chi)到(dao)底(di)部(bu)便是(shi)(shi)抵(di)達吃(chi)利津(jin)水(shui)(shui)煎(jian)(jian)包(bao)(bao)的(de)(de)高潮。水(shui)(shui)煎(jian)(jian)包(bao)(bao)的(de)(de)底(di)部(bu)一(yi)(yi)半是(shi)(shi)綿(mian)(mian)軟(ruan),一(yi)(yi)半是(shi)(shi)焦(jiao)脆,透(tou)了油的(de)(de)。底(di)便是(shi)(shi)焦(jiao)香的(de)(de),它(ta)在滿(man)足食者的(de)(de)品(pin)味(wei)之(zhi)后(hou),再度提供焦(jiao)脆柔甜及(ji)素常(chang)喜歡(huan)的(de)(de)爽心的(de)(de)咀嚼(jiao)齒感(gan)。到(dao)這(zhe)個時候,品(pin)味(wei)一(yi)(yi)個利津(jin)水(shui)(shui)煎(jian)(jian)包(bao)(bao)的(de)(de)歷(li)程已經完成大部(bu),余(yu)下(xia)的(de)(de)是(shi)(shi)持續(xu)一(yi)(yi)定的(de)(de)時間細細回(hui)味(wei)了。
利(li)(li)津(jin)(jin)(jin)是(shi)東(dong)營的(de)(de)古(gu)縣城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)一(yi)(yi),始建于(yu)金(jin)代明昌三(san)年十二月(1193年1月),因邑(yi)內有(you)“永利(li)(li)”“東(dong)津(jin)(jin)(jin)”兩地(di)(di)而得名(ming)(ming),至今(jin)已有(you)800余(yu)年歷史。因利(li)(li)津(jin)(jin)(jin)古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)整體輪廓恰似(si)一(yi)(yi)只鳳(feng)(feng)凰,頭(tou)朝東(dong)、尾(wei)(wei)向西;西出城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)的(de)(de)三(san)股(gu)官道,猶如(ru)鳳(feng)(feng)凰尾(wei)(wei)巴上(shang)的(de)(de)三(san)根(gen)長翎。所以,昔時利(li)(li)津(jin)(jin)(jin)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)又被冠以鳳(feng)(feng)凰城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)美名(ming)(ming)。鳳(feng)(feng)凰城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)緊鄰黃(huang)河(he),自古(gu)人杰地(di)(di)靈,物產(chan)豐富,地(di)(di)方名(ming)(ming)吃繁(fan)多,鹽窩(wo)全(quan)羊(yang)湯、黃(huang)河(he)故道鮮魚湯、北嶺丸(wan)子等享譽四方,其中的(de)(de)代表利(li)(li)津(jin)(jin)(jin)水煎包香(xiang)飄鳳(feng)(feng)凰城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),百年不絕。
利津傳統美(mei)食(shi),始于清代,為(wei)發面(mian)煎(jian)包(bao),分葷、素餡兩種。水煎(jian)包(bao)的特色在(zai)于兼得水煮油煎(jian)之妙,色澤金黃,一面(mian)焦(jiao)脆,三面(mian)嫩軟(ruan),皮薄餡大,香而(er)不膩。東營各小餐館(guan)均可品嘗。
利津水(shui)(shui)煎(jian)(jian)包(bao)(bao)(bao)的(de)做(zuo)法不太(tai)繁(fan)瑣,先發其(qi)(qi)面,再剁其(qi)(qi)餡,捏成圓柱(zhu)狀的(de)包(bao)(bao)(bao)子,置平鍋一(yi)(yi)口,燃猛火(huo)一(yi)(yi)爐,水(shui)(shui)煎(jian)(jian)包(bao)(bao)(bao)口朝下(xia)擱置,灌入面糊水(shui)(shui)淹至(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui)煎(jian)(jian)包(bao)(bao)(bao)頂端(duan),蓋(gai)上鍋蓋(gai),此乃(nai)為水(shui)(shui)煎(jian)(jian)是也。翻(fan)個。至(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui)漸干(gan),鍋底(di)始有炸(zha)響,便(bian)改文火(huo)細烤,湯汁收盡之后,揭起(qi)鍋蓋(gai),以細嘴油壺繞水(shui)(shui)煎(jian)(jian)包(bao)(bao)(bao)根底(di)注入豆油、麻油,以油煎(jian)(jian)至(zhi)(zhi)起(qi)焦殼止。全程制(zhi)作約十五分鐘,起(qi)鍋,擱置于圓盤之內。其(qi)(qi)制(zhi)作過程都(dou)要經過煮、蒸、煎(jian)(jian)三個環(huan)節。
煮(zhu):用平底鐵鍋,鍋底擦油,將生(sheng)包口朝下依次(ci)排列鍋內,每鍋50個左右,加熱后,將調(diao)好的(de)面(mian)漿水均勻(yun)澆入(ru)鍋中(zhong)(要漫過(guo)包子)大火細攻(gong)。
蒸:當漿水(shui)只(zhi)剩三(san)分(fen)之一時,用長柄鏟子(zi)將(jiang)包子(zi)逐個(ge)翻轉過(guo)來,蓋上鍋蓋,文火(huo)細燒熱蒸。
煎(jian):當(dang)漿(jiang)水收盡時(shi)(shi),用專用油壺沿包子間的(de)縫隙注(zhu)進豆油或香油,細火燒煎(jian),看準火候,適時(shi)(shi)出(chu)鍋。
利(li)津水煎(jian)包始于清代(dai),揚名(ming)于民(min)國(guo)年間,迄(qi)今已有一(yi)百多(duo)年的(de)歷史。民(min)國(guo)出期,在濱、蒲、利(li)、海、陽(yang)、沾諸縣(xian),提起地方名(ming)吃(chi),人(ren)們總是說:“利(li)津煎(jian)包,蒲臺面條(tiao),濱縣(xian)名(ming)吃(chi)鍋子(zi)餅”。
據飲食業的老戶(hu)介紹(shao),早在清朝光緒年間,利津縣(xian)(xian)城和各大集(ji)鎮,就有(you)(you)很多制作水(shui)(shui)(shui)煎(jian)包(bao)的鋪戶(hu)。當時(shi),全縣(xian)(xian)小有(you)(you)名(ming)氣的是鹽窩鎮尚(shang)家村。到了(le)(le)民國5年,縣(xian)(xian)城西街的賣水(shui)(shui)(shui)戶(hu)劉(liu)明(ming)遠、劉(liu)鳳(feng)(feng)剛(gang)父子,將鹽窩鎮的水(shui)(shui)(shui)煎(jian)包(bao)師(shi)傅尚(shang)樂安請到了(le)(le)縣(xian)(xian)城,辦起了(le)(le)水(shui)(shui)(shui)煎(jian)包(bao)專營小店—茂盛館。之(zhi)后(hou),經(jing)過不斷改進,水(shui)(shui)(shui)煎(jian)包(bao)達到了(le)(le)色味俱佳的水(shui)(shui)(shui)平,博(bo)得(de)了(le)(le)顧客好評,當時(shi)有(you)(you)這樣一(yi)句(ju)順口溜廣為流傳,“劉(liu)鳳(feng)(feng)剛(gang)開了(le)(le)張,別處的水(shui)(shui)(shui)煎(jian)包(bao)不吃香(xiang)。”
從此(ci)以后,縣城的水煎包工藝(yi)不(bu)斷發展,形成了獨特風(feng)格:皮呈金(jin)黃色,酥而不(bu)硬,陷(xian)多皮薄,香而不(bu)膩(ni),老(lao)少皆(jie)宜,堪稱面(mian)食之(zhi)佳品。