百(bai)善硬面大卷(juan)不(bu)同(tong)于(yu)一(yi)般(ban)的(de)(de)大卷(juan)。首先(xian)是它(ta)的(de)(de)“硬”;用手按不(bu)出(chu)凹坑,攥在拳中不(bu)變形(xing)(xing),像磚頭(tou)塊似的(de)(de)。再者是“大”:正宗的(de)(de)大卷(juan)一(yi)般(ban)長7厘米,寬3厘米,高(gao) 15厘米,一(yi)個足有四兩多。其次是它(ta)的(de)(de)形(xing)(xing)狀:上(shang)方為橋(qiao)拱圓(yuan)弧形(xing)(xing),下邊(bian)為四方形(xing)(xing)。
硬(ying)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)大卷(juan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)制作(zuo)工(gong)(gong)藝相(xiang)當繁雜(za)。往年沒有磨面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)機,石磨推(tui)出的(de)(de)(de)(de)小麥面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen),頭破面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)要(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)用銅絲羅二(er)遍,使面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)又(you)(you)白又(you)(you)細,做(zuo)出的(de)(de)(de)(de)大卷(juan)才能(neng)(neng)光亮不(bu)走形。當天早上能(neng)(neng)上市的(de)(de)(de)(de)大卷(juan),頭天晚上就(jiu)要(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)開始(shi)和發面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),凌晨2點就(jiu)得起床開始(shi)顫面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。顫面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時撒(sa)一(yi)層干(gan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),把干(gan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)顫進發面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)后,再撒(sa)一(yi)層干(gan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),再繼續顫。這(zhe)樣要(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)反復六七遍,直(zhi)至把面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)顫得提起來不(bu)下墜,放下來不(bu)走形為止(zhi)。顫面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)費(fei)工(gong)(gong)費(fei)時,勞(lao)動強(qiang)度(du)大,又(you)(you)要(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)把握面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)干(gan)濕軟硬(ying)程(cheng)度(du),是制作(zuo)硬(ying)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)大卷(juan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)關鍵技巧。為減(jian)輕雙(shuang)手(shou)顫面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)勞(lao)動強(qiang)度(du),有人(ren)發明了在(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)案一(yi)頭栓根木(mu)棒(bang),把面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)放在(zai)棒(bang)下,用雙(shuang)手(shou)壓(ya)木(mu)棒(bang)顫面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)技巧。顫面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)工(gong)(gong)序完成(cheng)后,接著(zhu)要(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)做(zuo)出一(yi)排排上圓下方的(de)(de)(de)(de)“饃(mo)基(ji)子”,用鋒利(li)的(de)(de)(de)(de)菜(cai)刀快速切出個頭均勻的(de)(de)(de)(de)大卷(juan)。大卷(juan)入鍋(guo)幾分鐘后,要(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)開鍋(guo)蓋查(cha)看(kan),發現(xian)走形的(de)(de)(de)(de)要(yao)(yao)(yao)(yao)及早整形,然后燒(shao)旺火,一(yi)氣呵(he)成(cheng)。