名稱來歷
龍(long)(long)(long)窖(jiao)腐(fu)(fu)乳因龍(long)(long)(long)窖(jiao)山(shan)而得名。據(ju)考(kao)證龍(long)(long)(long)窖(jiao)山(shan)是(shi)(shi)瑤(yao)文(wen)化的(de)(de)發源地,位于湖南(nan)省臨(lin)湘(xiang)市區東(dong)南(nan),以盛產龍(long)(long)(long)窖(jiao)腐(fu)(fu)乳出名。龍(long)(long)(long)窖(jiao)腐(fu)(fu)乳不僅是(shi)(shi)一種傳統的(de)(de)食(shi)(shi)品,而且是(shi)(shi)瑤(yao)文(wen)化遺跡最好的(de)(de)體現。臨(lin)湘(xiang)龍(long)(long)(long)窖(jiao)山(shan)屬(shu)幕阜(fu)山(shan)余脈,山(shan)林面(mian)積10.5萬畝,最高峰海拔1261.1米,山(shan)勢高峻(jun)、澗(jian)深洞長、蜿蜒百里(li)(li),是(shi)(shi)為(wei)避(bi)難秘地、世(shi)外桃源。瑤(yao)族(zu)是(shi)(shi)世(shi)界民(min)族(zu)之林中(zhong)一個頗具影響(xiang)力的(de)(de)少數民(min)族(zu),瑤(yao)胞們在這里(li)(li)留下(xia)了令人嘆為(wei)觀止的(de)(de)石文(wen)化遺跡。這個“養(yang)在深閨人未(wei)識(shi)”的(de)(de)瑤(yao)族(zu)理想家(jia)園“千家(jia)峒”原來就在湖南(nan)臨(lin)湘(xiang),遺存的(de)(de)大量石磨及古(gu)老的(de)(de)大豆物種,正是(shi)(shi)加工(gong)制作腐(fu)(fu)乳的(de)(de)必(bi)須物品,當地美麗傳奇(qi)的(de)(de)民(min)間神話,家(jia)家(jia)戶戶喜做喜食(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)腐(fu)(fu)乳為(wei)龍(long)(long)(long)窖(jiao)腐(fu)(fu)乳披上的(de)(de)歷史的(de)(de)年輪,富(fu)含(han)了深厚(hou)的(de)(de)文(wen)化底蘊。
歷史淵源
龍窖腐(fu)乳(ru)在(zai)民間傳說最早(zao)可(ke)追溯到兩千(qian)多年(nian)前,李本高《湖南省(sheng)臨湘市(shi)龍窖山(shan)瑤(yao)族(zu)(zu)(zu)“千(qian)家峒(tong)”考(kao)察報告(gao)》稱:“瑤(yao)族(zu)(zu)(zu)是(shi)(shi)一(yi)個歷史悠久的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)民族(zu)(zu)(zu),早(zao)在(zai)炎(yan)黃(huang)時代,就(jiu)與(yu)苗(miao)族(zu)(zu)(zu)先民組成強大(da)部落(luo)(luo)聯盟(meng)(蚩為苗(miao)族(zu)(zu)(zu)自(zi)稱,尤為瑤(yao)族(zu)(zu)(zu)自(zi)稱),抗(kang)衡(heng)炎(yan)黃(huang)部落(luo)(luo)聯盟(meng),并(bing)與(yu)炎(yan)帝、黃(huang)帝戰于(yu)涿鹿之野,后被(bei)打散,被(bei)逼南遷(qian)。周(zhou)時,瑤(yao)族(zu)(zu)(zu)先民荊蠻(man)在(zai)云(yun)夢澤地區活動頻繁(fan)。《小雅(ya)·采芑》云(yun):‘蠢爾荊蠻(man),大(da)邦(bang)為讎’。此時,龍窖山(shan)屬巴陵,應在(zai)三苗(miao)國之內,很可(ke)能就(jiu)有(you)一(yi)部分瑤(yao)族(zu)(zu)(zu)先民進入龍窖山(shan)。”據他推論,最遲(chi)在(zai)周(zhou)代,瑤(yao)胞即進入了(le)龍窖山(shan),他們(men)在(zai)這里生(sheng)活了(le)兩千(qian)多年(nian),創(chuang)造了(le)斑斑可(ke)考(kao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)燦(can)爛文化。瑤(yao)胞們(men)留下(xia)了(le)令人嘆為觀(guan)止的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)石文化遺(yi)跡。這些掩映于(yu)崇(chong)山(shan)竣嶺之中色彩斑斕的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)古老石文化,遺(yi)存有(you)石拳、石缽(bo)、石磨(mo)(mo)、石香爐、石升子,琳瑯滿(man)目,古雅(ya)樸拙,它(ta)遍布于(yu)高山(shan)密林,甚至人跡罕至的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)大(da)山(shan)深處(chu),他們(men)栽種蔬菜、豆(dou)類等用以維持生(sheng)活,而(er)(er)石缽(bo)、石磨(mo)(mo)就(jiu)是(shi)(shi)用來(lai)對(dui)豆(dou)類制(zhi)品進行加工的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)工具,豆(dou)制(zhi)品在(zai)天然環(huan)境中保存期限不長(chang),經常(chang)發生(sheng)霉變(bian),而(er)(er)這些經過自(zi)然霉變(bian)后的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)豆(dou)腐(fu)正是(shi)(shi)龍窖腐(fu)乳(ru)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)前身(shen)。
宋(song)(song)代范(fan)致明《岳陽風土記(ji)》:“龍(long)窖(jiao)山(shan)在(臨湘)縣東南,按鄂州崇陽縣,雷家(jia)洞、石(shi)門(men)洞,山(shan)極深遠(yuan)。其間(jian)居民謂之鳥鄉,語言侏離,以耕畬為業,磨(mo)豆(dou)(dou)腌菜為食(shi)。非市鹽(yan)茶,不入(ru)城市,邑亦無貢賦,蓋山(shan)徭人也(ye)。”宋(song)(song)馬子嚴《岳陽甲志》:“龍(long)窖(jiao)山(shan)在巴陵北,山(shan)實峻極,上有(you)雷洞,有(you)石(shi)門(men)之洞,山(shan)徭居之,自耕而(er)食(shi),植(zhi)蔬(shu)植(zhi)豆(dou)(dou),自織而(er)衣”。
民間一(yi)直流傳著關于龍(long)(long)(long)窖(jiao)(jiao)腐(fu)乳來(lai)歷的故事:明武宗時期,李(li)(li)時珍從(cong)京(jing)都太醫院辭職后(hou),背起藥(yao)(yao)筐四處(chu)探(tan)尋中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)草(cao)藥(yao)(yao),經跋山(shan)涉水到(dao)一(yi)處(chu)山(shan)麓,見(jian)瀑布從(cong)天而(er)降(jiang),溪(xi)水龍(long)(long)(long)行婉流而(er)下,各類(lei)草(cao)本植物(wu)溪(xi)岸叢生,探(tan)問(wen)山(shan)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)樵(qiao)夫,原(yuan)來(lai)已身入(ru)(ru)龍(long)(long)(long)窖(jiao)(jiao)山(shan)地(di)(今臨(lin)湘)。他(ta)正采摘藥(yao)(yao)材時隱約聽到(dao)有嬰(ying)兒啼哭(ku)不止,發現(xian)是一(yi)對(dui)靠賣豆(dou)腐(fu)為生的夫婦(fu)和小兒突然(ran)不吃(chi)不喝,整日(ri)啼哭(ku)。李(li)(li)時珍見(jian)小兒鼻側發青,肚子鼓(gu)脹,舌苔厚白,便從(cong)山(shan)上尋得的草(cao)藥(yao)(yao)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)挑揀幾種搗碎,讓男子拿(na)出一(yi)些豆(dou)腐(fu),放(fang)(fang)入(ru)(ru)碗(wan)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)用(yong)(yong)溪(xi)水搗散(san)與草(cao)藥(yao)(yao)拌勻,然(ran)后(hou)用(yong)(yong)小匙將拌勻的豆(dou)腐(fu)喂入(ru)(ru)小兒口中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong),片刻之(zhi)(zhi)后(hou),小兒肚脹漸(jian)消(xiao),面色也趨(qu)好轉,啼哭(ku)之(zhi)(zhi)聲也漸(jian)止。小夫妻(qi)倆討教藥(yao)(yao)方(fang)之(zhi)(zhi)后(hou),將豆(dou)腐(fu)放(fang)(fang)入(ru)(ru)窖(jiao)(jiao)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)貯存,日(ri)久發現(xian)豆(dou)腐(fu)與草(cao)藥(yao)(yao)己(ji)一(yi)起發酵,舍(she)之(zhi)(zhi)可惜,便加鹽(yan)腌(a)制繼續(xu)貯存,數日(ri)后(hou),再開窖(jiao)(jiao)觀察,忽然(ran)香氣四溢,試嘗(chang)之(zhi)(zhi),則口舌生津,胃口大(da)開,贈與鄰里,皆大(da)加贊賞,眾人討問(wen)何物(wu),便說(shuo)“龍(long)(long)(long)窖(jiao)(jiao)腐(fu)乳”。“龍(long)(long)(long)窖(jiao)(jiao)腐(fu)乳”從(cong)此在(zai)民間流傳開來(lai)。
生產(chan)地(di)域地(di)理(li)特征
該(gai)地(di)域位于(yu)湖南省東北(bei)部,長江中游南岸,地(di)處北(bei)緯29°10′~29°52′、東經113°15′~113°45′。臨湘(xiang)地(di)處北(bei)亞熱帶(dai)(dai)氣(qi)(qi)候帶(dai)(dai),屬于(yu)亞熱帶(dai)(dai)季(ji)風性濕(shi)潤氣(qi)(qi)候,雨(yu)量充沛,四(si)季(ji)分明。春季(ji)溫(wen)暖,陰濕(shi)多(duo)雨(yu),常為春雨(yu)綿(mian)綿(mian),麻雨(yu)稀(xi)稀(xi)的天氣(qi)(qi)。夏無(wu)酷暑,盛吹(chui)南風。秋季(ji)涼(liang)爽,時有(you)小(xiao)雨(yu)。冬季(ji)冷濕(shi)無(wu)嚴寒,平均(jun)氣(qi)(qi)溫(wen)小(xiao)于(yu)或等于(yu)0℃每(mei)年(nian)不超過5天,晴(qing)朗(lang)天氣(qi)(qi)時有(you)小(xiao)雨(yu)。這種氣(qi)(qi)候條(tiao)件十(shi)分適宜黃豆的生長,同時有(you)利于(yu)菌群的繁殖。
區域內無(wu)霜(shuang)期(qi)平(ping)(ping)(ping)均(jun)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)265天,年(nian)(nian)日照時數平(ping)(ping)(ping)均(jun)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)1804小時,年(nian)(nian)日照百(bai)分率平(ping)(ping)(ping)均(jun)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)35%、年(nian)(nian)平(ping)(ping)(ping)均(jun)氣(qi)溫為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)16.9℃、年(nian)(nian)平(ping)(ping)(ping)均(jun)降水量(liang)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)1762.0毫(hao)米、年(nian)(nian)平(ping)(ping)(ping)均(jun)蒸發量(liang)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)1476.3毫(hao)米、平(ping)(ping)(ping)均(jun)相對濕度為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)80%、年(nian)(nian)平(ping)(ping)(ping)均(jun)雪日為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)9.6天。常年(nian)(nian)溫差和晝(zhou)夜溫差小, 濕度大,這(zhe)就自然形(xing)成(cheng)了豆腐乳所(suo)需的獨(du)特(te)氣(qi)候(hou)與環(huan)境,尤其(qi)適合窖(jiao)池中微生物(wu)的生長,正是(shi)這(zhe)種(zhong)特(te)有(you)微生物(wu)菌(jun)種(zhong)群(qun)體最終形(xing)成(cheng)了龍窖(jiao)腐乳獨(du)特(te)的風味(wei)所(suo)在。
區域內因(yin)長期受自然因(yin)素(su)和人為因(yin)素(su)等影響,地(di)帶(dai)性土(tu)壤(rang)(rang)最主(zhu)要(yao)的(de)土(tu)壤(rang)(rang)類型(xing)是紅(hong)(hong)壤(rang)(rang),土(tu)屬為第(di)四紀紅(hong)(hong)土(tu)壤(rang)(rang),耕型(xing)板(ban)(ban)頁巖(yan)(yan)紅(hong)(hong)壤(rang)(rang)、板(ban)(ban)頁巖(yan)(yan)紅(hong)(hong)壤(rang)(rang)、花崗巖(yan)(yan)紅(hong)(hong)壤(rang)(rang)、砂(sha)礫巖(yan)(yan)紅(hong)(hong)壤(rang)(rang)、灰(hui)巖(yan)(yan)紅(hong)(hong)壤(rang)(rang)、板(ban)(ban)頁巖(yan)(yan)黃紅(hong)(hong)壤(rang)(rang)、花崗巖(yan)(yan)黃紅(hong)(hong)壤(rang)(rang)等到8個。其共性是一般土(tu)層深厚,肥力(li)中(zhong)等,呈(cheng)酸性反應(ying),有(you)機含量較高,有(you)利于(yu)農作物與(yu)植物生(sheng)長,土(tu)壤(rang)(rang)富含養分量及水(shui)平分別為:有(you)機質31.5 g/kg、有(you)效(xiao)磷17 mg/kg、速效(xiao)鉀(jia)69mg/kg、全(quan)氮(dan)(dan)2.0 g/kg、堿解(jie)氮(dan)(dan)189 mg/kg,特(te)別有(you)利于(yu)種植黃豆等農作物。獨(du)有(you)的(de)土(tu)壤(rang)(rang)培養的(de)原料大豆,對龍窖腐(fu)乳特(te)殊(shu)風格的(de)釀成具有(you)特(te)殊(shu)意義。
質量特色
龍窖腐乳外觀表面具(ju)有(you)該品種應有(you)的(de)色澤(ze),切面呈(cheng)乳黃(huang)色或者淡黃(huang)色,均勻一致(zhi),塊形整齊,厚薄均勻,質地細膩,具(ju)有(you)“內色杏黃(huang)、沉香細嫩、鮮香濃郁(yu)、咸淡適口(kou)”的(de)獨有(you)特征。