羽絨服(fu)制(zhi)作材料有哪些 定做羽絨服(fu)流程

羽絨服制作材料有哪些

羽(yu)絨服的材料主(zhu)要是羽(yu)絨和(he)涂層織物(wu)。

①羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)：小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片和(he)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(也(ye)稱朵絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong))的(de)(de)混合物。 前者(zhe)稱羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)，后(hou)者(zhe)稱絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)。多(duo)用鴨(ya)和(he)鵝的(de)(de)毛，經(jing)選洗分(fen)離出小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片和(he)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子用作羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)(fu)的(de)(de)絮料。羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)有(you)(you)灰白(bai)兩種，白(bai)者(zhe)為佳。羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)(fu)的(de)(de)質量(liang)(liang)與充(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)和(he)含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)有(you)(you)關。充(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)指(zhi)一(yi)件羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)(fu)絮進的(de)(de)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)重量(liang)(liang)，用克表示(shi)，一(yi)般為250克左右,充(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)少(shao),保(bao)暖性差；含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)指(zhi)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)中絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子的(de)(de)含量(liang)(liang),用百分(fen)比表示(shi)，一(yi)般含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)為50～80％。含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)高，則(ze)質量(liang)(liang)好。因絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子能使(shi)人體熱量(liang)(liang)不易散失,且手感柔軟,但當(dang)受(shou)壓(ya)和(he)遇濕后(hou)不易及時鼓起(qi)，而小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片此(ci)時則(ze)能使(shi)衣(yi)服(fu)(fu)蓬松鼓起(qi)以保(bao)持衣(yi)內有(you)(you)較多(duo)的(de)(de)空氣(qi)，有(you)(you)助保(bao)暖,但小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片多(duo)了,熱量(liang)(liang)易流(liu)散，且有(you)(you)毛梗感。所以絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子和(he)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片必須兼收(shou)并蓄，比例得當(dang)。

②涂(tu)(tu)層(ceng)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)選用經(jing)緯紗高(gao)(gao)密(mi)的(de)絲(si)綢、棉布(bu)、棉滌(di)等織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)，經(jing)軋(ya)壓(ya)處理，使經(jing)緯紗之間的(de)空(kong)隙(xi)縮小，再涂(tu)(tu)以(yi)高(gao)(gao)分(fen)(fen)子漿(jiang)料(liao)，使之與織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)形成交鏈的(de)透(tou)明皮(pi)膜覆蓋層(ceng)，以(yi)封(feng)閉織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)經(jing)緯間隙(xi)。有(you)(you)(you)的(de)在涂(tu)(tu)層(ceng)漿(jiang)料(liao)內加入氟磷樹(shu)脂(zhi)或有(you)(you)(you)機硅類防(fang)(fang)(fang)水劑(ji)，使織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)具有(you)(you)(you)防(fang)(fang)(fang)露絨(rong)、防(fang)(fang)(fang)滲(shen)水的(de)性(xing)能(neng)。20世紀80年代已有(you)(you)(you)不經(jing)涂(tu)(tu)層(ceng)的(de)特(te)制超高(gao)(gao)密(mi)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)，同樣(yang)能(neng)起到防(fang)(fang)(fang)露絨(rong)、防(fang)(fang)(fang)滲(shen)水和透(tou)氣的(de)作用。用于羽絨(rong)服(fu)的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)分(fen)(fen)硬性(xing)、軟性(xing)二類。滌(di)府(fu)、滌(di)卡、棉布(bu)屬(shu)硬性(xing)類，穿著平整(zheng)；真絲(si)塔府(fu)綢、尼絲(si)紡屬(shu)軟性(xing)類，穿著柔軟舒適。

定做羽絨服流程

1、線路參考(kao)樣衣及圖紙；

2、針距(ju)：11-13針/3cm明線(xian)跡，12-14針/3cm暗線跡。合縫(feng)用11#機針，引線用(yong)9#機針(zhen)；

3、線(xian)順(shun)色（特殊要求(qiu)除(chu)外），面(mian)線(xian)用(yong)與身順(shun)色線(xian)；

4、各部位線路要(yao)順直，縫紉(ren)線跡(ji)30cm內不(bu)得有兩處單跳(tiao)和連續跳(tiao)針(zhen)，包縫線跡不(bu)允許跳(tiao)針(zhen)。面、底線應松(song)緊適宜，起落都(dou)要打回針(zhen)；

5、袖子(zi)抽褶：先在單衣(yi)片上(shang)抽褶，然(ran)后再充絨納(na)線(xian)。抽褶線(xian)與(yu)肩縫(feng)對縫(feng)；

6、汽眼加隔色(se)墊布；

7、大(da)身拉鏈(lian)要求平(ping)整，不(bu)可起浪。門(men)襟鏈(lian)拉頭要求左拉右插，緝0.1cm明(ming)線(xian)；

8、主標、小號(hao)釘在(zai)內里后中；水洗標在(zai)內里左側縫(feng)1/2處為標下口(kou)；

9、所(suo)有里(li)子拼接縫要求包縫；

10、袖(xiu)口內面布為(wei)勾縫；

11、兜口1CM裝飾明線先(xian)充絨(rong)后(hou)輯明線；

12、棉(mian)靠里(li)布(bu)，帽子周(zhou)圈走0.1cm明線，帽子(zi)前(qian)口0.1+2.5cm明(ming)線。帽子底口0.1明線。帽縫帶帶條。具體納線參考圖(tu)紙

13、肩縫、腋(ye)下(xia)、兜布(bu)加帶條；

14、半(ban)成品必須小燙，熨燙平服，無(wu)極光；

15、其他具體做法(fa)參考樣衣(yi)。