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萬里長城-偏頭關
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偏頭關,位于偏關縣黃河邊,與寧武關、雁門關合稱“三關”。因其地勢東仰西伏,故名偏頭關。“雄關鼎寧雁,山連紫塞長,地控黃河北,金城鞏晉強。”這是古人對偏頭關的贊譽。偏頭關歷史悠久,地處黃河入晉南流之轉彎處,為歷代兵家爭奪重地。明代除設置“偏頭關”外,在重山峻嶺的長城沿線及重要通道上建起了城22座,有樺林堡、老牛灣堡、草垛山堡、老營堡等。這些堡城的邊墻現多僅存夯土,唯地處黃河岸邊的樺林堡地段,約30公里邊墻保存較好,全部包磚,高聳于河岸,甚為壯觀。
  • 所在地/隸屬: 山(shan)西(xi)省忻州市偏關(guan)縣黃(huang)河邊
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基本介紹

偏(pian)(pian)頭關,位于偏(pian)(pian)關縣黃(huang)河(he)邊,與寧武關、雁(yan)門關合稱(cheng)“三關”。

因其地(di)(di)(di)勢東仰西(xi)伏,故名偏(pian)(pian)(pian)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)關。“雄關鼎寧雁(yan),山(shan)連紫塞長,地(di)(di)(di)控(kong)黃(huang)河(he)北,金城鞏(gong)晉(jin)強。”這(zhe)是古人對(dui)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)關的贊譽。偏(pian)(pian)(pian)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)關歷(li)史悠久,地(di)(di)(di)處黃(huang)河(he)入晉(jin)南流之(zhi)轉彎處,為歷(li)代兵家爭奪重(zhong)地(di)(di)(di)。早在春秋戰國時期,這(zhe)里就是戰場。“趙武靈王略中山(shan)破林胡,取其地(di)(di)(di)置(zhi)儋(dan)林郡(jun)”。偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關秦漢屬(shu)雁(yan)門(men),隋屬(shu)馬邑,唐置(zhi)唐隆鎮,名將尉遲(chi)敬德在關東建九龍寺。偏(pian)(pian)(pian)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)關城形狀不(bu)規則,東西(xi)長1100米。東、西(xi)、南三道(dao)城門(men)均(jun)建有甕城。城高10米處砌磚石,南門(men)至西(xi)門(men)一帶,磚石大部猶存。西(xi)墻(qiang)、北墻(qiang)多為夯土墻(qiang),東部城墻(qiang)已(yi)毀。明代除(chu)設置(zhi)“偏(pian)(pian)(pian)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)關”外,在重(zhong)山(shan)峻嶺的長城沿線及重(zhong)要通道(dao)上(shang)建起(qi)了(le)城22座(zuo),有樺(hua)林堡(bao)(bao)、老(lao)(lao)牛灣堡(bao)(bao)、草垛山(shan)堡(bao)(bao)、老(lao)(lao)營堡(bao)(bao)等。這(zhe)些堡(bao)(bao)城的邊墻(qiang)現(xian)多僅存夯土,唯地(di)(di)(di)處黃(huang)河(he)岸邊的樺(hua)林堡(bao)(bao)地(di)(di)(di)段,約30公里邊墻(qiang)保存較好(hao),全部包磚,高聳(song)于河(he)岸,甚為壯觀。

景點景觀

偏(pian)(pian)頭關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng),在今偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)縣(xian)(xian)城(cheng)(cheng)中部偏(pian)(pian)西(xi)關(guan)(guan)河(he)(he)北岸,為(wei)省重點文(wen)(wen)(wen)物(wu)(wu)保(bao)護(hu)單位。據(ju)民國四(si)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(1915)《偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)志》記(ji)載(zai),于明(ming)洪(hong)武(wu)二十(shi)三(san)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(1390)鎮西(xi)沖指揮張賢始(shi)建(jian)(jian)。宣德、天順(shun)、成(cheng)(cheng)化(hua)、弘治、嘉靖、隆慶、萬歷(li)間(jian)均有修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)。萬歷(li)二十(shi)六年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(1598)又于西(xi)關(guan)(guan)南關(guan)(guan)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)女城(cheng)(cheng)、水門(men)各(ge)二。沿(yan)河(he)(he)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)堤(di),規模初(chu)備,始(shi)稱“九塞屏藩”。所存(cun)的城(cheng)(cheng)垣形狀(zhuang)不規則(ze),東西(xi)長(chang)(chang)(chang)1100米(mi),東、西(xi)、南三(san)道城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)均建(jian)(jian)甕城(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)高(gao)10米(mi)處(chu)包(bao)磚(zhuan)石。一南門(men)至(zhi)西(xi)門(men)一帶,磚(zhuan)石大(da)部猶存(cun),氣(qi)勢雄(xiong)偉。黃(huang)(huang)河(he)(he)邊(bian)堡墻(qiang)的具體(ti)位置在老(lao)牛(niu)海至(zhi)寺(si)溝(gou)黃(huang)(huang)河(he)(he)沿(yan)岸。現為(wei)山(shan)西(xi)省重點文(wen)(wen)(wen)物(wu)(wu)保(bao)護(hu)單位。據(ju)民國四(si)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(1915)《偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)志》記(ji)載(zai),為(wei)明(ming)成(cheng)(cheng)化(hua)二年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(1468)總兵王璽建(jian)(jian),嘉靖萬歷(li)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)均進行增筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)。北自(zi)老(lao)牛(niu)灣與外長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)相連,南經(jing)寺(si)溝(gou)渡口退至(zhi)河(he)(he)曲縣(xian)(xian)石梯口隘(ai)。偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)境內(nei)長(chang)(chang)(chang)40公里。此段長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)多(duo)有黃(huang)(huang)河(he)(he)懸崖(ya)天險屏障,多(duo)數地段未筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)墻(qiang)體(ti),只在溝(gou)口崖(ya)頭筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)寨據(ju)守,沿(yan)岸多(duo)建(jian)(jian)望(wang)臺設防。只有寺(si)溝(gou)至(zhi)黑豆(dou)埝(nian),關(guan)(guan)河(he)(he)口至(zhi)尖刺(ci)灣建(jian)(jian)石城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang),紅色粘土夯筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu),外墻(qiang)條石、城(cheng)(cheng)磚(zhuan)包(bao)之。100——200米(mi)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)馬面或敵接(jie)。其走(zou)向均建(jian)(jian)于黃(huang)(huang)河(he)(he)崖(ya)頭、溝(gou)豁。數百年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)來雖有自(zi)然及人(ren)為(wei)破壞,僅存(cun)土墻(qiang),但(dan)氣(qi)勢不以(yi)當(dang)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)。土墻(qiang)平均底寬(kuan)七米(mi),頂寬(kuan)五(wu)米(mi),殘局(ju)五(wu)到七米(mi)。是山(shan)西(xi)黃(huang)(huang)河(he)(he)邊(bian)上的重要文(wen)(wen)(wen)化(hua)景(jing)觀之一。

在(zai)偏(pian)(pian)頭關東南一公里,有(you)凌(ling)霄塔,系明(ming)代建筑。據有(you)關碑文(wen)記載(zai),創建于明(ming)代天啟元年(nian)(1621),始(shi)為(wei)七(qi)級。崇禎(zhen)八(ba)年(nian)(1635)加高四級。清康熙十八(ba)年(nian)(1679)、咸豐七(qi)年(nian)(1857)均有(you)維修,為(wei)磚(zhuan)石(shi)結構、八(ba)角形樓閣式(shi)空心雁塔。基(ji)座二層(ceng)塔底(di)部(bu)周長(chang)(chang)29米,塔高35米,外(wai)觀形似文(wen)筆(bi),故名“文(wen)筆(bi)凌(ling)霄”塔。從二層(ceng)開始(shi),每層(ceng)四個窗洞。由內壁隱(yin)筑樓梯,保存(cun)完(wan)好,為(wei)偏(pian)(pian)頭關之一大(da)景觀。偏(pian)(pian)關縣的長(chang)(chang)城遺跡,還有(you)黃河(he)邊(bian)堡屆,又稱“西河(he)石(shi)邊(bian)”,俗稱“黃河(he)邊(bian)”。這條明(ming)代長(chang)(chang)城,北(bei)接偏(pian)(pian)關縣老牛(niu)灣,沿黃河(he)岸邊(bian)蜿蜒而行,南經山西河(he)曲縣石(shi)梯口隘,全長(chang)(chang)約100公里。

此邊(bian)地處(chu)晉陜峽(xia)谷之中,黃(huang)河充當:“天(tian)塹(qian)”。長城(cheng)建(jian)筑因地制宜,通道豁口(kou)之處(chu),又筑石邊(bian)、土墻,陡峭的崖壁山上(shang)僅筑烽火臺,連綿不斷,構成嚴密(mi)的軍(jun)事防御體(ti)系。

偏關城(cheng)(cheng)歷經明(ming)清兩(liang)代(dai)興建(jian),規模大展,盡(jin)管四面環山(shan),地處(chu)盆地,但隨著(zhu)東高西低(di)的山(shan)勢(shi),象一(yi)只頭(tou)枕塔(ta)梁山(shan),臥于關河(he)川的巨(ju)犀,又(you)稱“犀牛望月”城(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)內主大街縱貫南(nan)北(bei),樓(lou)房(fang)林立(li),商賈云集,街市一(yi)新。明(ming)清建(jian)筑古民居,青(qing)瓦房(fang)舍,各抱(bao)地勢(shi),一(yi)展古樸(pu)古香(xiang)的風韻。城(cheng)(cheng)中央的鐘鼓樓(lou),石基磚拱,紅墻青(qing)瓦,飛(fei)檐(yan)歇山(shan)頂,雄(xiong)姿穩健,十分氣派。古時(shi)關城(cheng)(cheng)內有(you)寺廟108座(zuo),建(jian)筑宏偉(wei)。“雄(xiong)關鼎寧(ning)雁,山(shan)連紫(zi)塞(sai)長,地控黃河(he)北(bei),金(jin)城(cheng)(cheng)鞏晉強。”明(ming)山(shan)西巡撫何(he)喬新對(dui)軍事重鎮—偏頭(tou)關給予高度評價。

實用信息

交通

偏(pian)關河(he)朔(shuo)州、寧武、神池等地(di)有班車來(lai)往,但車次不多。從(cong)內蒙古往太原的班車也經(jing)過偏(pian)關。朔(shuo)州每天7:00 8:00 10:00 12:30 17:00有班車發往偏(pian)關,票價30元,3小時左右到達。

住宿

偏關賓館

飲食

偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)縣地(di)處晉西(xi)北,受氣候及光(guang)照(zhao)影響,各種(zhong)美(mei)食很(hen)有(you)特(te)色,可稱(cheng)人間美(mei)味(wei)(wei),叫(jiao)人欲罷不(bu)能,來到(dao)(dao)偏(pian)頭關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan),第一(yi)(yi)(yi)要(yao)(yao)(yao)吃(chi)豬(zhu)(zhu)肉,這(zhe)(zhe)里(li)(li)的(de)(de)豬(zhu)(zhu)肉生(sheng)長(chang)期長(chang),肥(fei)(fei)肉唇齒留香(xiang),肥(fei)(fei)而不(bu)膩(ni),瘦肉勁道(dao)唯美(mei)。用豬(zhu)(zhu)肉制(zhi)作的(de)(de)典型(xing)食品是(shi)大(da)燴菜、豬(zhu)(zhu)頭肉。來到(dao)(dao)偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)首先要(yao)(yao)(yao)吃(chi)這(zhe)(zhe)兩樣(yang)。第二是(shi)偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)肉,這(zhe)(zhe)里(li)(li)地(di)處晉蒙(meng)交界,羊(yang)(yang)(yang)肉肥(fei)(fei)瘦適中,肉質鮮美(mei)且(qie)烹調有(you)方,這(zhe)(zhe)里(li)(li)的(de)(de)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)肉要(yao)(yao)(yao)遠(yuan)遠(yuan)超過(guo)所(suo)謂的(de)(de)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)肉泡饃,來到(dao)(dao)偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)要(yao)(yao)(yao)品嘗最好(hao)(hao)吃(chi)的(de)(de)燉羊(yang)(yang)(yang)肉,不(bu)吃(chi)偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)羊(yang)(yang)(yang),不(bu)知人間香(xiang)。第三要(yao)(yao)(yao)吃(chi)偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)油糕(gao),用黃米(mi)制(zhi)作,在華北其他地(di)方又稱(cheng)黍子米(mi),該(gai)糕(gao)以香(xiang)、脆、軟著(zhu)稱(cheng),再配合(he)胡(hu)油炸制(zhi),要(yao)(yao)(yao)比南(nan)方糯(nuo)米(mi)制(zhi)品高出(chu)一(yi)(yi)(yi)個(ge)(ge)檔次,吃(chi)過(guo)后唇齒留香(xiang),恨不(bu)能吃(chi)飽為止(zhi),到(dao)(dao)這(zhe)(zhe)里(li)(li)一(yi)(yi)(yi)定要(yao)(yao)(yao)吃(chi)油糕(gao) 。 第四要(yao)(yao)(yao)吃(chi)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)雜(za)割,外地(di)的(de)(de)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)雜(za)基本燉個(ge)(ge)湯吃(chi),味(wei)(wei)道(dao)很(hen)一(yi)(yi)(yi)般,膻味(wei)(wei)很(hen)重,而偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)雜(za)要(yao)(yao)(yao)配合(he)土(tu)豆粉條吃(chi),味(wei)(wei)道(dao)鮮美(mei),到(dao)(dao)一(yi)(yi)(yi)壺老陳醋,抓一(yi)(yi)(yi)把香(xiang)菜撒,可謂人間美(mei)味(wei)(wei)。第五要(yao)(yao)(yao)吃(chi)偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)莜面,這(zhe)(zhe)里(li)(li)的(de)(de)莜面是(shi)真正的(de)(de)高寒地(di)帶(dai)莜面,尤其湯料調味(wei)(wei)獨(du)特(te),三高患(huan)者可天(tian)天(tian)使用。第五是(shi)涼碗(wan)托,偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)碗(wan)托用蕎(qiao)面制(zhi)作,配合(he)美(mei)味(wei)(wei)湯料,清涼爽口,沁人心脾(pi),從小到(dao)(dao)大(da)天(tian)天(tian)吃(chi)也吃(chi)不(bu)膩(ni),到(dao)(dao)偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)不(bu)吃(chi)腕托白(bai)走一(yi)(yi)(yi)遭。偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)美(mei)食還有(you)很(hen)多,數不(bu)勝數,希望到(dao)(dao)偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)游客一(yi)(yi)(yi)定要(yao)(yao)(yao)品嘗,不(bu)好(hao)(hao)吃(chi)不(bu)要(yao)(yao)(yao)錢(qian)。

歷史沿革

歷史沿革

偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)縣(xian)在(zai)漢、唐(tang)的(de)(de)時(shi)候還(huan)不出名,也沒(mei)有(you)設(she)縣(xian)治,到了五代(dai)十(shi)國(guo)時(shi)期北(bei)漢末代(dai)皇帝劉鈞(jun)于天(tian)會元(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(957年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))置(zhi)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)頭(tou)(tou)砦(zhai);北(bei)宋時(shi)這里成為(wei)(wei)(wei)與西(xi)夏交兵的(de)(de)國(guo)防前線,因駐扎重(zhong)兵,地位(wei)一度非(fei)常高;遼置(zhi)寧邊(bian)州(zhou);金時(shi)仍用(yong)該(gai)稱(cheng)(cheng)呼;元(yuan)代(dai)時(shi)候州(zhou)、縣(xian)俱廢,改偏(pian)(pian)(pian)頭(tou)(tou)砦(zhai)為(wei)(wei)(wei)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)頭(tou)(tou)關(guan)(guan)(guan),明(ming)洪武(wu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)始筑今天(tian)的(de)(de)關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng),明(ming)成化年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)設(she)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)頭(tou)(tou)關(guan)(guan)(guan)守御千戶(hu)所,嘉靖(jing)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)上升為(wei)(wei)(wei)路城(cheng),萬歷年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)又大規(gui)模(mo)建設(she)此(ci)城(cheng),稱(cheng)(cheng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)“九塞(sai)屏藩”;清雍正年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)改偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)為(wei)(wei)(wei)縣(xian),屬寧武(wu)府,又名通邊(bian)關(guan)(guan)(guan);1940年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)解放(fang)。偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)與寧武(wu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)、雁門關(guan)(guan)(guan),合稱(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)三關(guan)(guan)(guan)。此(ci)三關(guan)(guan)(guan)鼎峙(zhi)晉北(bei),互為(wei)(wei)(wei)犄角,是北(bei)疆之(zhi)門戶(hu),京師(shi)之(zhi)屏障。

偏(pian)關的(de)故事涉及到(dao)了明(ming)(ming)武宗(zong)(zong)(zong)。明(ming)(ming)武宗(zong)(zong)(zong)是一(yi)(yi)個非常有(you)趣的(de)皇帝(di),具體就(jiu)不(bu)展開說了,這(zhe)里(li)只(zhi)說他喜歡(huan)打(da)仗,可是明(ming)(ming)朝是歷代(dai)以來把儒教禮數等傳(chuan)統(tong)(tong)思想貫徹(che)得最徹(che)底(di)的(de)一(yi)(yi)個王朝,是一(yi)(yi)個純(chun)粹(cui)的(de)文人統(tong)(tong)治社(she)(she)會。皇帝(di)也(ye)(ye)只(zhi)是一(yi)(yi)個擺設,要不(bu)然萬(wan)歷在位五十(shi)四年(nian)中(zhong)有(you)二十(shi)五年(nian)沒上朝,社(she)(she)會也(ye)(ye)正常運轉(zhuan)呢。所以武宗(zong)(zong)(zong)就(jiu)很不(bu)舒服,怎(zen)么(me)辦呢?武宗(zong)(zong)(zong)想了個著兒,虛擬了一(yi)(yi)個叫朱壽(shou)的(de)大(da)將(jiang)軍(jun)(jun),并下詔封官:總督軍(jun)(jun)務威武大(da)將(jiang)軍(jun)(jun)總兵官朱壽(shou),統(tong)(tong)領(ling)六師,掃除邊患,累建奇功(gong),特加封鎮國(guo)公,歲支錄五千石,著吏部如(ru)剌奉行!不(bu)久又加封朱壽(shou)為太師。這(zhe)著兒好啊(a),以后(hou)想打(da)仗或者(zhe)干點啥事,就(jiu)以影子武士的(de)名義來操辦,事情辦砸了也(ye)(ye)好推(tui)卸責任,同時還拿(na)到(dao)了一(yi)(yi)份兒工資。明(ming)(ming)武宗(zong)(zong)(zong)二次西巡的(de)時候曾在這(zhe)里(li)小住過(guo)。

歷史作用

明人有詩云:

半壁(bi)孤城(cheng)水一(yi)灣(wan),萬家煙火(huo)壯雄關(guan)(guan)。 黃河曲曲濤(tao)南下(xia),紫(zi)塞隆(long)(long)隆(long)(long)障北環(huan)。 明(ming)朝時(shi),偏頭關(guan)(guan)既(ji)是(shi)晉北門(men)戶,也是(shi)晉北與內蒙(meng)古互市(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)通商(shang)口。每(mei)逢戰爭的(de)(de)(de)(de)烽(feng)煙消(xiao)失之后,邊禁開放,關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)及其周圍的(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)些堡寨就成為蒙(meng)漢人民(min)互市(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)區域。蒙(meng)古族以大批的(de)(de)(de)(de)草原(yuan)駿馬進入(ru)互市(shi)區,換取(qu)漢人的(de)(de)(de)(de)絲棉織品、茶葉等物。互市(shi)開放之日,關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)、堡寨將士披甲戴盔,列隊城(cheng)外(wai),城(cheng)樓之上,禮(li)炮轟鳴,鼓角擂動,慶祝這(zhe)民(min)族交往的(de)(de)(de)(de)盛會。邊地將領、政府官(guan)員、各(ge)地商(shang)人都(dou)紛紛前來赴會,通過(guo)商(shang)品的(de)(de)(de)(de)交流,交流著民(min)族間的(de)(de)(de)(de)感情(qing)。 如今,關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)、堡寨、邊墻(qiang)早已隨著時(shi)間的(de)(de)(de)(de)流逝,失去了它(ta)(ta)們當年的(de)(de)(de)(de)作用,成為歷史(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)遺(yi)跡。它(ta)(ta)們的(de)(de)(de)(de)存(cun)在,只能告訴人們,中(zhong)華(hua)各(ge)民(min)族的(de)(de)(de)(de)感情(qing),永遠(yuan)像濤(tao)濤(tao)黃河,奔流不息,任何屏障都(dou)是(shi)隔不斷的(de)(de)(de)(de)。

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