始(shi)創于元(yuan)。夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)曾(ceng)為(wei)“元(yuan)駙馬都(dou)尉武毅王(wang)(wang)(wang)湯(tang)(tang)沐邑(yi)(yi)①”(見(jian)清(qing)乾(qian)(qian)隆本(ben)《夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)縣(xian)(xian)(xian)志(zhi)·疆域志(zhi)·沿革(ge)》)。王(wang)(wang)(wang)名(ming)孛要合,尚(shang)太(tai)祖成(cheng)(cheng)吉(ji)思(si)汗(han)女(nv)阿刺海(hai)(hai)別吉(ji)(見(jian)《二(er)十(shi)五(wu)史(shi)·元(yuan)史(shi)一0九·諸公(gong)主(zhu)表》)。公(gong)主(zhu)賢慧(hui)(hui)(hui)聰穎(ying),除(chu)佐王(wang)(wang)(wang)府(fu)政事(shi)(shi)(shi),夙重(zhong)(zhong)丈夫飲(yin)食(shi)起居(ju),備極(ji)周洽,凡王(wang)(wang)(wang)餐必(bi)重(zhong)(zhong)攝(she)(she)生(sheng)②。“夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)為(wei)武毅王(wang)(wang)(wang)湯(tang)(tang)沐邑(yi)(yi)非止一世(shi)(shi),王(wang)(wang)(wang)之(zhi)(zhi)孫(sun)曰(yue)忽(hu)都(dou)納,再(zai)傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)曰(yue)干(gan)朵(duo)忽(hu)都(dou),再(zai)傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)曰(yue)沈溫(wen)祥。”(見(jian)民(min)國本(ben)《夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)縣(xian)(xian)(xian)志(zhi)·疆域志(zhi)·沿革(ge)》)。王(wang)(wang)(wang)孫(sun)忽(hu)都(dou)納襲(xi)位(wei),頗有(you)乃(nai)祖之(zhi)(zhi)風(feng),尤(you)重(zhong)(zhong)攝(she)(she)生(sheng)之(zhi)(zhi)道(dao),其與營(ying)養(yang)大師(shi)忽(hu)思(si)慧(hui)(hui)(hui)③過從甚密。是以(yi),思(si)慧(hui)(hui)(hui)常隨來夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)陪(pei)侍(shi),文(wen)翰琴棋之(zhi)(zhi)外,共論飲(yin)膳攝(she)(she)生(sheng)。一日(ri),見(jian)王(wang)(wang)(wang)府(fu)所(suo)(suo)豢報曉雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji),毛羽似火,尾翎紛披,頷首稱(cheng)羨(xian)。乃(nai)謂王(wang)(wang)(wang)言:“此物味(wei)甘平(ping),微溫(wen)無毒,補(bu)(bu)中(zhong)(zhong)安五(wu)臟,最(zui)宜攝(she)(she)生(sheng)”。王(wang)(wang)(wang)驚喜不(bu)(bu)已,即(ji)命宰烹。廚(chu)(chu)夫禿哈(ha)(又(you)作(zuo)(zuo)圖哈(ha))為(wei)祖傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)世(shi)(shi)廚(chu)(chu),久侍(shi)王(wang)(wang)(wang)府(fu),主(zhu)司(si)廚(chu)(chu)饌(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan),藝(yi)(yi)技精(jing)(jing)(jing)巧(qiao),乃(nai)揮刃而(er)(er)就(jiu)。思(si)慧(hui)(hui)(hui)又(you)命輔以(yi)菇、筍、木(mu)耳、精(jing)(jing)(jing)肉諸料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao),共雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)入(ru)鼎而(er)(er)烹。比(bi)及食(shi)后(hou)(hou),王(wang)(wang)(wang)顏大悅,言:“殊美,唯多(duo)骨(gu)耳”。翌(yi)日(ri),禿哈(ha)即(ji)剔(ti)骨(gu)而(er)(er)烹。食(shi)竟,王(wang)(wang)(wang)言:“益(yi)(yi)美。第雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)與輔料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)相雜,味(wei)混渾不(bu)(bu)清(qing)”,思(si)慧(hui)(hui)(hui)茫然扼(e)腕。禿哈(ha)遂(sui)言:“此易耳。去臟而(er)(er)不(bu)(bu)剖,內(nei)剔(ti)骨(gu)可也。”乃(nai)于頸(jing)側入(ru)手,除(chu)臟剔(ti)骨(gu),而(er)(er)成(cheng)(cheng)袋囊(nang)。中(zhong)(zhong)充輔料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao),勢若(ruo)完雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji),即(ji)和(he)(he)羹而(er)(er)飪。入(ru)盤(pan)飾以(yi)青紅(hong)菜蔬,整(zheng)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)若(ruo)伏(fu)錦簇中(zhong)(zhong)。王(wang)(wang)(wang)朵(duo)頤(yi)大快,頰(jia)齒俱馨。食(shi)后(hou)(hou)咂舌吮唇,豎(shu)擘極(ji)譽:“外味(wei)嫩鮮(xian),中(zhong)(zhong)餡(xian)豐(feng)華(hua)(hua)。妙品哉!”即(ji)題詩云:赭光(guang)燦燦如(ru)熔金,百珍(zhen)中(zhong)(zhong)囊(nang)事(shi)(shi)(shi)事(shi)(shi)(shi)馨。天錫鄃(yu)城飛火鳳,巧(qiao)烹細饌(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)味(wei)彌真。遂(sui)命搜(sou)購民(min)間(jian)“丹牡雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(紅(hong)雄雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji))”,“日(ri)輒如(ru)法(fa)烹食(shi)”。嗣(si)后(hou)(hou),又(you)改用(yong)牝雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(母(mu)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)),味(wei)尤(you)肥美。年(nian)(nian)(nian)湮日(ri)久,此饌(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)遂(sui)成(cheng)(cheng)王(wang)(wang)(wang)府(fu)佳肴之(zhi)(zhi)首。制(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)亦愈(yu)趨精(jing)(jing)(jing)純,乃(nai)至主(zhu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)選(xuan)用(yong)當(dang)年(nian)(nian)(nian)生(sheng)斤半至二(er)斤牡、牝雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。輔料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)又(you)增(zeng)填海(hai)(hai)米、海(hai)(hai)參、干(gan)貝(bei)等,其鮮(xian)嫩飫美,倍徙(xi)厥(jue)初(chu)。因主(zhu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)為(wei)夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)土產雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji),故又(you)得名(ming)“鄃(yu)飴(yi)珍(zhen)味(wei)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)”。后(hou)(hou)饌(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)制(zhi)(zhi)④之(zhi)(zhi)方傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)入(ru)宮(gong)廷,列入(ru)御膳,每當(dang)麥秋之(zhi)(zhi)季則征調(diao)“鄃(yu)地土雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)”,夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)則應時(shi)購取(qu),奉(feng)發帝京(jing)。凡節日(ri)慶典,朝廷即(ji)以(yi)“鄃(yu)飴(yi)珍(zhen)味(wei)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)”分賜王(wang)(wang)(wang)公(gong)大臣、皇親國戚,獲者皆以(yi)為(wei)榮。因之(zhi)(zhi),諸王(wang)(wang)(wang)公(gong)卿多(duo)有(you)效法(fa),雖其技巧(qiao)參差(cha)不(bu)(bu)侔⑤,味(wei)亦優劣有(you)差(cha),然終為(wei)各府(fu)第宴(yan)筵所(suo)(suo)必(bi)備。清(qing)乾(qian)(qian)隆間(jian)夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)知(zhi)縣(xian)(xian)(xian)方學(xue)(xue)成(cheng)(cheng),夙嗜此味(wei),每命邑(yi)(yi)之(zhi)(zhi)名(ming)廚(chu)(chu)為(wei)飪。時(shi)方母(mu)隨任(ren),方知(zhi)縣(xian)(xian)(xian)為(wei)人(ren)至孝,每以(yi)此饌(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)奉(feng)母(mu)。縣(xian)(xian)(xian)丞、教(jiao)諭、典史(shi)等屬寮亦多(duo)效仿,各以(yi)布(bu)(bu)袋雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)奉(feng)敬父母(mu)。方知(zhi)縣(xian)(xian)(xian)卸任(ren)歸里(li),宴(yan)客必(bi)為(wei)饌(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)制(zhi)(zhi)。食(shi)者稱(cheng)賞,其則意為(wei)不(bu)(bu)佳,嘗(chang)于筆(bi)記《日(ri)廩饌(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)玉》中(zhong)(zhong)稱(cheng):“饌(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)制(zhi)(zhi)雖美,然猶不(bu)(bu)及鄃(yu)味(wei)”。因制(zhi)(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)工藝(yi)(yi)嚴謹,用(yong)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)精(jing)(jing)(jing)純,故民(min)間(jian)烹制(zhi)(zhi)絕(jue)少(shao),飯莊酒(jiu)肆亦饌(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)飪幾稀。僅據《夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)魏(wei)氏族(zu)譜·序》載“十(shi)二(er)世(shi)(shi)魏(wei)公(gong)從德為(wei)邑(yi)(yi)中(zhong)(zhong)名(ming)廚(chu)(chu),饌(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)制(zhi)(zhi)‘鄃(yu)飴(yi)珍(zhen)味(wei)雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)’名(ming)揚遐邇(er)(er)。嘗(chang)營(ying)店肆于濟南、石家(jia)莊等地,名(ming)‘鴻熙居(ju)’。凡官商華(hua)(hua)筵莫不(bu)(bu)首推(tui),縉紳大賈多(duo)所(suo)(suo)訂取(qu),皆備極(ji)褒美”。按其“譜系(xi)”推(tui)之(zhi)(zhi),魏(wei)從德當(dang)為(wei)清(qing)乾(qian)(qian)隆初(chu)人(ren)。迄于民(min)國傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)之(zhi)(zhi)于張浩,為(wei)第八代傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)人(ren),繼傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)紀尚(shang)忠,復傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)魏(wei)憲華(hua)(hua),已是第十(shi)代傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)人(ren)。斗(dou)轉(zhuan)星移,璞玉成(cheng)(cheng)璋(zhang)。方今(jin)“布(bu)(bu)袋雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)”名(ming)揚遐邇(er)(er),身位(wei)陡增(zeng),日(ri)漸光(guang)大輝(hui)煌(huang)。德州鴻熙居(ju)布(bu)(bu)袋雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)有(you)限公(gong)司(si),系(xi)夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)布(bu)(bu)袋雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)饌(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)藝(yi)(yi)第十(shi)代傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)人(ren)、德州布(bu)(bu)袋雞(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)美食(shi)文(wen)化研(yan)究會(hui)長(chang)魏(wei)憲華(hua)(hua)創辦。其以(yi)“傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)統為(wei)源,踵(zhong)事(shi)(shi)(shi)增(zeng)華(hua)(hua)。質(zhi)量為(wei)本(ben),科學(xue)(xue)發展”為(wei)理念,深入(ru)發掘傳(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)(chuan)統工藝(yi)(yi),利用(yong)現(xian)代科技研(yan)究分析營(ying)養(yang)成(cheng)(cheng)分配比(bi)。力求風(feng)味(wei)以(yi)適眾口,務(wu)使產品尤(you)利補(bu)(bu)益(yi)(yi),以(yi)期食(shi)者攝(she)(she)生(sheng),而(er)(er)臻延年(nian)(nian)(nian)。注:①湯(tang)(tang)沐邑(yi)(yi):古時(shi)供(gong)諸侯(hou)、大臣朝見(jian)天子前,住宿、齋戒、沐浴的(de)地方。后(hou)(hou)來用(yong)做(zuo)皇帝、皇后(hou)(hou)、公(gong)主(zhu)等收取(qu)賦稅的(de)私邑(yi)(yi),也叫湯(tang)(tang)沐邑(yi)(yi)。②攝(she)(she)生(sheng):保養(yang)身體。③忽(hu)思(si)慧(hui)(hui)(hui):又(you)作(zuo)(zuo)和(he)(he)斯輝(hui)。元(yuan)代蒙古族(zu)營(ying)養(yang)學(xue)(xue)家(jia)、醫學(xue)(xue)家(jia)。元(yuan)仁宗(zong)延佑(you)年(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(1314-1320)任(ren)飲(yin)膳太(tai)醫,主(zhu)管宮(gong)廷飲(yin)食(shi)、藥(yao)湯(tang)(tang)補(bu)(bu)益(yi)(yi)事(shi)(shi)(shi)項。曾(ceng)撰有(you)營(ying)養(yang)學(xue)(xue)專著(zhu)--《飲(yin)膳正(zheng)要》。④饌(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)制(zhi)(zhi):烹炒(chao)菜肴。⑤侔:mou,等,齊。
清乾隆(long)年(nian)間(jian)夏津知(zhi)縣方學成曾派人在夏津民間(jian)專學此(ci)藝(yi),卸任后回安(an)徽原(yuan)籍(ji),宴客多次仿制,食者(zhe)無不(bu)叫絕。然方學成意味(wei)不(bu)佳,嘗于筆記中嘆曰:饌制雖美(mei),然猶(you)不(bu)及鄃(yu)味(wei)。
——《夏津縣志(zhi)》
據夏(xia)津縣(xian)志記載(zai):布(bu)(bu)袋(dai)雞(ji)又名“海(hai)味什錦(jin)雞(ji)”,源于(yu)(yu)元初,盛(sheng)于(yu)(yu)乾隆,系夏(xia)津傳統特色名吃,后(hou)為《滿(man)漢全席》主菜(cai)之一。因其(qi)狀如(ru)布(bu)(bu)袋(dai),故名“布(bu)(bu)袋(dai)雞(ji)”。布(bu)(bu)袋(dai)雞(ji)選料精良(liang),制作別致(zhi),選用散養笨雞(ji),宰殺煺毛后(hou),于(yu)(yu)咽下切寸許小口,剔除頸骨(gu)(gu)、翅骨(gu)(gu)、身骨(gu)(gu)、腿骨(gu)(gu)及內(nei)臟(zang),使其(qi)成為“雞(ji)布(bu)(bu)袋(dai)”。然(ran)后(hou)按其(qi)比例裝入(ru)海(hai)參、鮑魚、瑤柱(zhu)、火腿、筍菇等十六種佐(zuo)料,將口封住,入(ru)油(you)炸(zha)至金(jin)黃色,上籠蒸制,并配以青、紅、黃等色蔬菜(cai)拼成圖案,放(fang)入(ru)盤上宛如(ru)整雞(ji)伏于(yu)(yu)錦(jin)囊之中,上席后(hou),劃開背部(bu),內(nei)陷露出,肉鮮餡美,香(xiang)而不膩,清香(xiang)四溢(yi),營養均(jun)衡,獨(du)具風味,遠近聞名,被國家(jia)列(lie)入(ru)《中國菜(cai)譜》。
原料(liao):笨雞、海參、瑤(yao)柱(干貝)、鮑(bao)魚(yu)、玉蘭片、瘦豬肉(rou)、火腿、魷魚(yu)、口蘑等。
佐料:花椒油、醬(jiang)油、精(jing)鹽(yan)、料酒、味精(jing)、水團粉、高湯、蔥、姜、油等。
1、用清(qing)水洗凈,浸泡2小時備(bei)用
2、桂圓去殼留肉備用
3、泡好的紅豆、大棗、清水,上(shang)火(huo)煮沸
4、加入桂圓
5、再次沸騰后,轉(zhuan)文火煲60分鐘