祝融峰(feng)位于湖南(nan)省衡陽(yang)市(shi)南(nan)岳(yue)區的南(nan)岳(yue)衡山(shan),挺拔突起,高出芙蓉、紫蓋、天柱、祥光、煙(yan)霞、軫宿諸(zhu)峰(feng)之上,祝融峰(feng),海(hai)拔1300.2米,高聳云(yun)霄(xiao),雄峙南(nan)天,是南(nan)岳(yue)衡山(shan)72峰(feng)的主峰(feng)。
南岳諸多景觀中,祝(zhu)融(rong)峰(feng)(feng)之高(gao),方廣寺之深(shen)(shen),藏經殿(dian)之秀,水簾洞(dong)之奇(qi),歷來被(bei)稱為“四絕(jue)”。峰(feng)(feng)頭花崗巖裸露地表,黑石嶙峋,峰(feng)(feng)背(bei)巨崖(ya),壁立千仞(ren);望月臺(tai)側,奇(qi)石堆(dui)疊,聳出(chu)十余丈,成為峰(feng)(feng)頂的(de)(de)高(gao)點。峰(feng)(feng)腰(yao)到峰(feng)(feng)麓,松杉環繞,郁(yu)郁(yu)蔥(cong)蔥(cong),深(shen)(shen)綠(lv)無際。在峰(feng)(feng)麓通過喜陽峰(feng)(feng)的(de)(de)路側,還有一片常綠(lv)闊葉林,學名“多脈青岡(gang)林”,綠(lv)葉成陰,碧濤滿耳,經風(feng)撲衣,理引人興(xing)起“五(wu)(wu)岳獨秀”的(de)(de)一種感覺。登祝(zhu)融(rong)峰(feng)(feng)頂,極目四望,峰(feng)(feng)高(gao)眼闊,胸懷無際。腳下群(qun)峰(feng)(feng)如浪,綠(lv)濤起伏,湘江(jiang)如帶,彎曲成五(wu)(wu)條白練,遙向祝(zhu)融(rong),俗稱“五(wu)(wu)龍捧(peng)圣”。
登衡山必登祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)。古人(ren)說(shuo):“不(bu)登祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong),不(bu)足以知其高(gao)。”唐代文(wen)學家韓(han)愈(yu)詩云:“祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)萬丈(zhang)拔地起,欲見(jian)不(bu)見(jian)青煙里(li)(li)”。兩句(ju)詩形(xing)象的描寫了(le)祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)峰的高(gao)峻(jun)、雄偉,這里(li)(li)不(bu)僅(jin)可以眺望到連綿不(bu)絕(jue)的群山,在(zai)無云的夜晚,到這里(li)(li)賞月,別有一番(fan)美景。游(you)人(ren)站在(zai)臺上欣賞月色,較在(zai)平地上別有一番(fan)景象。即使月亮西沉,這里(li)(li)也(ye)還(huan)留有它的余輝。正如明代孫應(ying)鰲的詩所描繪:"人(ren)間朗(lang)魂已落盡,此地清光猶未低(di)。"幽妙的情景,可以想見(jian)了(le)。
祝(zhu)融(rong)峰附近寺(si)廟林立(li),景物各有千(qian)秋(qiu)。南(nan)岳佛(fo)教的五大叢(cong)林,祝(zhu)融(rong)峰下就(jiu)占了兩座。南(nan)面(mian)有上(shang)(shang)封(feng)寺(si),隋(sui)(sui)代以前叫(jiao)光天觀,是(shi)(shi)道教活動的地方。隋(sui)(sui)場帝大業年間,下令(ling)改為上(shang)(shang)封(feng)寺(si)。沿上(shang)(shang)封(feng)寺(si)正前方走,可(ke)(ke)見傲然兀立(li)的石牌坊,這就(jiu)是(shi)(shi)南(nan)天門,其石柱上(shang)(shang)刻有對聯:"門可(ke)(ke)通天,仰現碧落(luo)星辰近;路承絕頂,俯瞰翠微巒嶼低(di)!"傳神(shen)之筆(bi),叫(jiao)人真想踏上(shang)(shang)一塊白云,隨風(feng)飄(piao)去(qu)。
上(shang)封(feng)字(zi)后的山(shan)上(shang)有個觀(guan)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)臺,現設有氣象(xiang)臺。在觀(guan)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)臺旁邊,有一塊石碑,上(shang)面刻(ke)有"觀(guan)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)出處"四個大字(zi),在秋高氣爽,特別是雨(yu)后初(chu)晴(qing)的日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)子里,游(you)人可以看(kan)到"一輪(lun)紅(hong)(hong)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)滾金(jin)(jin)球"的奇景。為了(le)看(kan)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)出,游(you)人需(xu)要先一天住在上(shang)封(feng)寺的招待所里,次日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)黎(li)明前,趕到觀(guan)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)臺。如遇(yu)晴(qing)天,則(ze)可看(kan)到東方一片灰白(bai)的天空,漸(jian)(jian)漸(jian)(jian)地(di)出現了(le)微(wei)(wei)微(wei)(wei)的鮮紅(hong)(hong)色,接著一道道光芒噴薄而(er)出,五(wu)彩繽(bin)紛。剎那(nei)間,太(tai)陽似乎從地(di)干線下向上(shang)一躍,浮出了(le)部分弧(hu)形的紅(hong)(hong)邊,紅(hong)(hong)邊很(hen)快變成了(le)半邊紅(hong)(hong)輪(lun),繼而(er)成為一個火紅(hong)(hong)的圓球。金(jin)(jin)輪(lun)涌出,上(shang)下蕩漾。旭日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)冉冉升起,曙光灑向大地(di),萬物生機勃勃。青山(shan)綠樹,遍披金(jin)(jin)色的彩衣(yi),秀(xiu)麗萬狀。
由于每天(tian)天(tian)氣(qi)變化不同,日出(chu)的情景也千姿百態,各呈(cheng)異彩,使南岳壯(zhuang)觀的日出(chu),更(geng)加美不勝(sheng)收。
祝融殿
祝融峰(feng)頂(ding)有祝融殿,原名老圣(sheng)帝殿,明萬歷年間(1573—1620)始建為(wei)祠。因山高風(feng)大,所以(yi)建筑是用堅(jian)固(gu)的花崗巖砌(qi)墻,以(yi)鐵瓦蓋的頂(ding),殿宇凌風(feng)傲雪(xue),巍(wei)然屹立在絕頂(ding)巨石(shi)之(zhi)上(shang)。建筑是后來重(zhong)新修(xiu)建的,殿后巖石(shi)上(shang)裝有石(shi)欄(lan)桿,北山風(feng)光盡收眼底(di)。
山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂(ding)(ding)的(de)(de)祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)是(shi)清乾(qian)隆(long)十(shi)六(liu)年(nian)(nian)(1751年(nian)(nian))下(xia)詔重(zhong)(zhong)建的(de)(de),石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)墻鐵瓦。祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)君這位職(zhi)掌南(nan)離的(de)(de)火正宮(gong),經過歷代(dai)(dai)帝王(wang)的(de)(de)神(shen)化和(he)加官進爵,由(you)隋、唐兩(liang)代(dai)(dai)的(de)(de)“司天(tian)王(wang)”到(dao)宋朝(chao)(chao)的(de)(de)“司天(tian)昭(zhao)圣帝”,制(zhi)擬帝王(wang),祀以(yi)國(guo)典。祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)自(zi)清朝(chao)(chao)乾(qian)隆(long)重(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)后,因風(feng)霜蝕剝,民(min)國(guo)二十(shi)一(yi)年(nian)(nian),時任湖南(nan)省主席的(de)(de)何鍵又(you)捐資重(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)。1982年(nian)(nian)南(nan)岳管理局(ju)重(zhong)(zhong)新翻修(xiu),始成為(wei)的(de)(de)面貌。祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)高(gao)踞祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)(ding),構筑在(zai)(zai)(zai)一(yi)個奇石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)重(zhong)(zhong)壘、風(feng)急云涌的(de)(de)百多平(ping)方(fang)(fang)米(mi)的(de)(de)頂(ding)(ding)隙里,可以(yi)想見當年(nian)(nian)建筑的(de)(de)艱辛。從(cong)祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)麓(lu)的(de)(de)上(shang)(shang)封寺到(dao)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)(ding)的(de)(de)祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian),有花(hua)崗石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)路層層梯(ti)接(jie)到(dao)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)(ding)底下(xia),石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)路兩(liang)旁(pang),矮(ai)松(song)成竹(zhu),山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)花(hua)爛漫,頗為(wei)潔(jie)致。從(cong)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)(ding)底腳通到(dao)祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)門前石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)砌平(ping)臺(tai),有三(san)十(shi)多級(ji)陡峻的(de)(de)花(hua)崗石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)臺(tai)階(jie)。山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)門是(shi)座牌坊式(shi)建筑,牌坊上(shang)(shang)有“祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)”三(san)字石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)額,卻(que)未額為(wei)“祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)”。門兩(liang)側有對(dui)聯:“寅賓(bin)出日,峻極于天(tian)。”前者(zhe)指清晨五到(dao)六(liu)點(dian)時太陽(yang)升起(qi),后者(zhe)說祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)(ding)比天(tian)還高(gao)峻。這副對(dui)聯的(de)(de)句子(zi)集自(zi)《詩經》,對(dui)仗工穩,渾然天(tian)成,又(you)切合(he)祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)(ding)景(jing)物。祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)右側走廊(lang)有另一(yi)條小(xiao)門通向望(wang)(wang)月(yue)(yue)臺(tai)。望(wang)(wang)月(yue)(yue)臺(tai)比祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)正殿(dian)(dian)基約(yue)高(gao)2-3米(mi),是(shi)花(hua)崗巖風(feng)化后裸露而成。整(zheng)塊巖面不(bu)(bu)到(dao)4.5平(ping)方(fang)(fang)米(mi),靠(kao)邊處(chu)(chu)圍上(shang)(shang)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)欄(lan),既可臨風(feng)小(xiao)坐,也可憑石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)欄(lan)桿(gan)眺(tiao)望(wang)(wang)。因為(wei)它是(shi)較高(gao)點(dian),所以(yi)空景(jing)無際(ji),山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)風(feng)襲人,瀟湘帆影(ying),遠近山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)巒(luan),盡(jin)奔眼底。望(wang)(wang)月(yue)(yue)臺(tai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang)(shang)原有不(bu)(bu)少石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke),因為(wei)刻(ke)在(zai)(zai)(zai)臺(tai)面石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang)(shang),風(feng)雪侵蝕,游人摩挲(suo)、踐踏,許(xu)多已漸磨(mo)滅。現(xian)存(cun)的(de)(de)有明朝(chao)(chao)嘉靖丁巳(1577年(nian)(nian))九月(yue)(yue)寶慶知(zhi)府書(shu)刻(ke)“望(wang)(wang)月(yue)(yue)壇”三(san)個約(yue)50厘(li)米(mi)見方(fang)(fang)的(de)(de)字,鐫刻(ke)在(zai)(zai)(zai)巖的(de)(de)內(nei)壁上(shang)(shang),楷書(shu)橫排(pai)。其余在(zai)(zai)(zai)臺(tai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang)(shang)與(yu)臺(tai)內(nei)外峭壁上(shang)(shang)的(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke)還清晰可辨的(de)(de)有“竣極”、“仰止處(chu)(chu)”、“果是(shi)高(gao)”、“青云在(zai)(zai)(zai)望(wang)(wang)”、“青云滿袖”、“山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)不(bu)(bu)厭高(gao)”、“覺夢(meng)處(chu)(chu)”、“千維綠”、“天(tian)外幽賞”、“壽(shou)比南(nan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)”、“唯我(wo)是(shi)高(gao),尊峙(zhi)寰(huan)中”等等,大都不(bu)(bu)知(zhi)是(shi)何年(nian)(nian)何代(dai)(dai)刻(ke)品。
望月臺
在祝融殿的西(xi)邊,有望月(yue)臺,是一塊高聳的巉(chan)巖,上有石刻,字(zi)跡清(qing)晰可(ke)辨(bian),月(yue)明之夜,皓月(yue)臨空(kong),銀光(guang)四射,景(jing)色格外明麗。游(you)人(ren)站在臺上,欣賞月(yue)色,較在平地(di)上別(bie)有一番景(jing)象(xiang)。即(ji)使月(yue)亮西(xi)沉,這里(li)也留有它的余輝。正(zheng)如(ru)明代孫(sun)應(ying)鰲的詩所描繪的:“人(ren)間朗魄已落盡,此地(di)清(qing)光(guang)猶未低(di)。”幽妙(miao)的情景(jing),可(ke)以想(xiang)見(jian)了。
上封寺
祝融峰(feng)附近寺(si)廟林立(li),其南(nan)(nan)面(mian)有(you)上(shang)(shang)封(feng)(feng)寺(si),隋(sui)代以(yi)前(qian)叫(jiao)光天觀(guan)(guan),是(shi)道(dao)教活動的(de)(de)地方。隋(sui)煬帝(di)大業年間(605—618),下令改(gai)為(wei)上(shang)(shang)封(feng)(feng)寺(si)。上(shang)(shang)封(feng)(feng)寺(si)的(de)(de)正前(qian)方是(shi)南(nan)(nan)天門。上(shang)(shang)封(feng)(feng)寺(si)后的(de)(de)山上(shang)(shang)有(you)觀(guan)(guan)日(ri)臺(tai)(tai),現設有(you)氣象(xiang)臺(tai)(tai)。在觀(guan)(guan)日(ri)臺(tai)(tai)旁邊,有(you)一塊石碑(bei),上(shang)(shang)面(mian)刻有(you)“觀(guan)(guan)日(ri)出(chu)處”四(si)個大字,在秋高氣爽,特別(bie)是(shi)雨后初晴的(de)(de)日(ri)子里,游人可(ke)以(yi)看到“一輪紅(hong)日(ri)滾金球”的(de)(de)奇景。
雷池
祝(zhu)融峰(feng)(feng)頂還有個特(te)殊景色——雷(lei)(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)。在祝(zhu)融峰(feng)(feng)腰上(shang)封寺側(ce)有個很神秘的(de)地方,俗稱(cheng)“雷(lei)(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)”。“雷(lei)(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)”只是石(shi)崖邊一個面積(ji)不(bu)(bu)足4平方米,深不(bu)(bu)到1/3米的(de)小石(shi)池(chi)(chi)(chi)。傳說每當峰(feng)(feng)頂雷(lei)(lei)霆怒發時(shi),這個青苔滿壁(bi)的(de)黑黝黝小石(shi)池(chi)(chi)(chi)上(shang)一定會(hui)金(jin)蛇亂閃,暴雷(lei)(lei)炸(zha)裂(lie),而在池(chi)(chi)(chi)畔(pan)另有個小穴,俗稱(cheng)“風(feng)(feng)穴”,這時(shi),也(ye)就風(feng)(feng)煙繚繞,濤聲(sheng)陣陣。宋朝的(de)陳(chen)從古(gu)(gu)曾有《登祝(zhu)融峰(feng)(feng)雷(lei)(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)》詩(shi):“上(shang)封峰(feng)(feng)頭(tou)帝所(suo)宇,傍(bang)有雷(lei)(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)亙今(jin)古(gu)(gu)。去天五尺銀河通,帝遣(qian)雷(lei)(lei)公宰云雨(yu)。我來正值秋(qiu)雨(yu)時(shi),再(zai)拜乞(qi)龍(long)龍(long)勿拒。快得(de)此雨(yu)洗甲(jia)兵,免使中原困胡虜。”陳(chen)從古(gu)(gu)這首(shou)詩(shi)每字約25厘米見方,隸書(shu)豎刻(ke),字在雷(lei)(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)附(fu)近(jin)通望(wang)日臺路側(ce)石(shi)壁(bi)上(shang),從題刻(ke)可見“雷(lei)(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)”至少鑿(zao)于陳(chen)從古(gu)(gu)之前(qian),至今(jin)已逾千年,也(ye)算(suan)一特(te)種文物。
南山摩崖石刻
南岳有關部門根據史籍記載(zai),幾度冒著烈日(ri)登(deng)山(shan)探尋(xun),終于在南岳衡山(shan)高峰——祝融峰,找到了古代“南山(shan)”大型石刻,一展“南山(shan)”芳容(rong)。
清(qing)光緒版《南(nan)岳(yue)志》記載,有(you)“壽比南(nan)山(shan)”四(si)字題刻(ke)于南(nan)岳(yue)祝(zhu)融峰祝(zhu)融殿北(bei)墻基下舍身崖上(今(jin)望(wang)月臺(tai)附近(jin)),楷(kai)書陰刻(ke),每字一米見方。但此次南(nan)岳(yue)相關部門幾度探尋(xun),只發現“南(nan)山(shan)”二字。專家分析,“壽比”二字可能(neng)在(zai)修葺祝(zhu)融殿時壓(ya)在(zai)殿腳下了。
祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)峰是(shi)(shi)根據(ju)火(huo)(huo)(huo)神(shen)(shen)祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)氏的(de)名(ming)字命名(ming)的(de),相(xiang)傳祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)氏是(shi)(shi)上古軒轅黃帝的(de)大(da)臣(chen),是(shi)(shi)火(huo)(huo)(huo)神(shen)(shen),人(ren)(ren)類(lei)發明(ming)鉆木取火(huo)(huo)(huo)后卻(que)不會保存火(huo)(huo)(huo)種和不會用火(huo)(huo)(huo),祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)氏由于跟火(huo)(huo)(huo)親近,成了管(guan)(guan)火(huo)(huo)(huo)用火(huo)(huo)(huo)的(de)能手(shou)。黃帝就任命他(ta)為(wei)管(guan)(guan)火(huo)(huo)(huo)的(de)火(huo)(huo)(huo)正官。因為(wei)他(ta)熟悉南(nan)方(fang)(fang)的(de)情況,黃帝又封他(ta)為(wei)司徒,主管(guan)(guan)南(nan)方(fang)(fang)事物。他(ta)住在(zai)衡(heng)山(shan),死后又葬在(zai)衡(heng)山(shan)。為(wei)了紀念他(ta)對(dui)人(ren)(ren)們的(de)重大(da)貢獻,將衡(heng)山(shan)的(de)高峰命名(ming)祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)峰。在(zai)古語(yu)中,“祝(zhu)(zhu)”是(shi)(shi)持久,“融(rong)(rong)”是(shi)(shi)光(guang)(guang)明(ming),讓他(ta)永遠光(guang)(guang)明(ming)。
為(wei)人祝壽(shou),人們常說“壽(shou)比(bi)南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)”,諸多(duo)史料證明了南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)與南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)岳(yue)衡(heng)山(shan)(shan)(shan)的(de)關(guan)系:題刻(ke)(ke)于(yu)祝融峰會仙橋側有(you)“南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)一境(jing)”石(shi)刻(ke)(ke),款(kuan)署(shu)“甲寅東巴郡汪言臣、王(wang)三畏(wei)同游(you)此(ci)”;題刻(ke)(ke)于(yu)福嚴(yan)寺(si)(si)堂聯二(er)進石(shi)柱上“福嚴(yan)為(wei)南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)第(di)一古剎,般(ban)若(ruo)是老祖不二(er)法門”;清(qing)代(dai)智犁和尚在(zai)(zai)《重修(xiu)廣濟寺(si)(si)記》中曰(yue)(yue):“南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)岳(yue)乃天(tian)下(xia)五岳(yue)之一,世(shi)稱壽(shou)比(bi)南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)者,即此(ci)岳(yue)也(ye)。”;宋代(dai)瀟(xiao)湘(xiang)子偶(ou)吟曰(yue)(yue):“我愛(ai)瀟(xiao)湘(xiang)境(jing),紅(hong)塵(chen)隔岸除。南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)七十二(er),惟(wei)喜洞真(zhen)墟。”……根據古代(dai)《周禮》、《春秋》、《星(xing)經(jing)》記載:衡(heng)山(shan)(shan)(shan)位(wei)處(chu)星(xing)度(du)二(er)十八(ba)宿(su)的(de)軫(zhen)星(xing)之翼,“度(du)應(ying)璣衡(heng)”,象衡(heng)器一樣可(ke)以稱量天(tian)地的(de)重量,能“銓德鈞物”,故名衡(heng)山(shan)(shan)(shan)。又因軫(zhen)星(xing)旁有(you)一小星(xing),名叫(jiao)“長沙星(xing)”,此(ci)星(xing)主管人間蒼生壽(shou)命(主長壽(shou)、子孫昌)。自(zi)宋徽宗(zong)在(zai)(zai)南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)岳(yue)留下(xia)“壽(shou)岳(yue)”石(shi)刻(ke)(ke)和“天(tian)下(xia)南(nan)(nan)(nan)(nan)岳(yue)”題詞(ci)后,“壽(shou)岳(yue)”之名更(geng)稱于(yu)世(shi)。