狀(zhuang)元蹄(ti)(ti)(ti),香(xiang)氣四逸,那感覺真(zhen)是(shi)妙不可言。說起狀(zhuang)元蹄(ti)(ti)(ti),那還(huan)(huan)真(zhen)有一(yi)段歷(li)史(shi):相傳宋淳祐四年,同里人(ren)魏汝賢高中(zhong)(zhong)狀(zhuang)元。魏狀(zhuang)元特別喜歡吃紅(hong)(hong)燒(shao)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti),到了清光緒年間(jian),退思(si)園(yuan)主人(ren)任蘭生(sheng)因仰慕(mu)魏狀(zhuang)元,特聘(pin)名廚燒(shao)制紅(hong)(hong)燒(shao)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti),作(zuo)(zuo)為家(jia)宴主菜,雅稱(cheng)狀(zhuang)元蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)。生(sheng)產狀(zhuang)元蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)的(de)(de)(de)原料規格一(yi)般在(zai)1—1.25公(gong)斤(jin)。“先(xian)是(shi)把(ba)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)放(fang)水里煮(zhu)(zhu),去毛(mao)后加入(ru)18味(wei)中(zhong)(zhong)草(cao)藥煮(zhu)(zhu)開,然后用(yong)(yong)文火燜燒(shao)。一(yi)個(ge)大(da)(da)鍋一(yi)次可以煮(zhu)(zhu)80只蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang),大(da)(da)概需要4個(ge)小(xiao)時。”狀(zhuang)元蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)制作(zuo)(zuo)時,煮(zhu)(zhu)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)一(yi)定要用(yong)(yong)鐵(tie)鍋,鐵(tie)鍋能(neng)夠吸(xi)收燒(shao)煮(zhu)(zhu)過程中(zhong)(zhong)產生(sheng)的(de)(de)(de)水分,另外,還(huan)(huan)能(neng)把(ba)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)中(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)(de)脂肪蒸(zheng)出(chu)來(lai),這(zhe)樣燒(shao)出(chu)來(lai)的(de)(de)(de)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)才能(neng)食而(er)不膩,酥而(er)不爛(lan)。“別小(xiao)看那18味(wei)中(zhong)(zhong)草(cao)藥,它們還(huan)(huan)能(neng)起到防腐(fu)的(de)(de)(de)作(zuo)(zuo)用(yong)(yong)!至于蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)的(de)(de)(de)食用(yong)(yong)方法,直接把(ba)真(zhen)空包(bao)裝好(hao)(hao)的(de)(de)(de)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)連袋子一(yi)起放(fang)在(zai)水里煮(zhu)(zhu)開即可食用(yong)(yong),這(zhe)樣湯不容(rong)易燒(shao)干,還(huan)(huan)更入(ru)味(wei)。如何將(jiang)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)去骨剖開:先(xian)用(yong)(yong)手拎起一(yi)只蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang),從兩根貫穿整只豬蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)的(de)(de)(de)長骨中(zhong)(zhong),將(jiang)一(yi)根細骨輕輕抽出(chu),以骨為刀(dao)(dao),蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)就被(bei)順順當(dang)當(dang)剖開了。這(zhe)根骨頭(tou)后人(ren)稱(cheng)之為“狀(zhuang)元刀(dao)(dao)”。在(zai)“金榜狀(zhuang)元坊”內(nei),買蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)的(de)(de)(de)游客(ke)排成幾(ji)道長隊,都想回(hui)去討個(ge)好(hao)(hao)彩(cai)頭(tou)。
狀(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)元蹄(ti),香氣四逸,那(nei)感覺(jue)真(zhen)是妙不(bu)可(ke)言(yan)。說(shuo)起狀(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)元蹄(ti),那(nei)還(huan)真(zhen)有一(yi)(yi)段歷史:相傳宋淳祐四年(nian),同(tong)里人(ren)魏(wei)汝(ru)賢高中(zhong)狀(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)元。魏(wei)狀(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)元特別喜歡(huan)吃紅(hong)燒(shao)蹄(ti),到(dao)(dao)了清(qing)光緒年(nian)間,退思園主(zhu)人(ren)任蘭(lan)生(sheng)(sheng)因仰慕魏(wei)狀(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)元,特聘名廚(chu)燒(shao)制(zhi)紅(hong)燒(shao)蹄(ti),作為家宴主(zhu)菜,雅稱“狀(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)元蹄(ti)”。當時(shi),狀(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)元洪鈞及妾賽金花(hua)等人(ren)常來品嘗。如(ru)今的(de)狀(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)元蹄(ti)雖(sui)然(ran)在(zai)做法上(shang)和過(guo)去(qu)有了很大的(de)不(bu)同(tong),但在(zai)口(kou)味(wei)(wei)上(shang)卻(que)是更勝一(yi)(yi)籌。生(sheng)(sheng)產狀(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)元蹄(ti)的(de)原料規格(ge)一(yi)(yi)般在(zai)1—1.25公(gong)斤。“先(xian)是把蹄(ti)髈(bang)(bang)放(fang)水(shui)里煮(zhu),去(qu)毛后(hou)加入(ru)(ru)18味(wei)(wei)中(zhong)草藥煮(zhu)開,然(ran)后(hou)用(yong)(yong)文(wen)火燜(men)燒(shao)。一(yi)(yi)個(ge)大鍋(guo)(guo)一(yi)(yi)次可(ke)以(yi)煮(zhu)80只蹄(ti)髈(bang)(bang),大概(gai)需(xu)要4個(ge)小時(shi)。"狀(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)元蹄(ti)”制(zhi)作時(shi),煮(zhu)蹄(ti)髈(bang)(bang)一(yi)(yi)定要用(yong)(yong)鐵鍋(guo)(guo),鐵鍋(guo)(guo)能(neng)夠吸收(shou)燒(shao)煮(zhu)過(guo)程中(zhong)產生(sheng)(sheng)的(de)水(shui)分,另(ling)外,還(huan)能(neng)把蹄(ti)髈(bang)(bang)中(zhong)的(de)脂(zhi)肪蒸出(chu)(chu)來,這樣燒(shao)出(chu)(chu)來的(de)蹄(ti)髈(bang)(bang)才能(neng)食(shi)而不(bu)膩,酥(su)而不(bu)爛。“別小看那(nei)18味(wei)(wei)中(zhong)草藥,它們還(huan)能(neng)起到(dao)(dao)防(fang)腐的(de)作用(yong)(yong)!至(zhi)于蹄(ti)髈(bang)(bang)的(de)食(shi)用(yong)(yong)方法,直(zhi)接把真(zhen)空包裝好的(de)蹄(ti)髈(bang)(bang)連(lian)袋子一(yi)(yi)起放(fang)在(zai)水(shui)里煮(zhu)開即可(ke)食(shi)用(yong)(yong),這樣湯不(bu)容易(yi)燒(shao)干,還(huan)更入(ru)(ru)味(wei)(wei)。