相傳,嘗(chang)取石脂(zhi)于(yu)此。左思《吳都賦》云:"赤須(xu)子蟬(chan)蛻而附麗(li)。"赤須(xu)子,道(dao)教傳說(shuo)中的神仙。《文選》李(li)善注引(yin)《列仙傳》云:"赤須(xu)子,豐人(ren)也,秦(qin)穆公(gong)之(zhi)主魚吏(li)也。數道(dao)豐界災異水旱(han),十不失(shi)一。食(shi)柏實、石脂(zhi),絕谷。齒落更生(sheng),細發復出(chu)。后去之(zhi)吳山。"赤須(xu)子本非吳人(ren),故曰"附麗(li)"于(yu)此。
穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)歷(li)史悠久,據《穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)志》載,漢(han)代(dai)初(chu)(chu)元年(nian)(nian)間(jian),出身望族的茅(mao)盈、茅(mao)固、茅(mao)衷(zhong)兄(xiong)弟(di)三(san)人(ren)上(shang)(shang)穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)修(xiu)煉皆得(de)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao),合稱三(san)茅(mao)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)君(jun)(jun),曾修(xiu)茅(mao)君(jun)(jun)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian),留有"斷碑"殘跡,至漢(han)平(ping)帝(di)時(shi),始建(jian)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)。據《光福志》,宋天(tian)禧年(nian)(nian)間(jian),真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)宗(zong)詔天(tian)復(fu)廢業重(zhong)建(jian)穹(qiong)窿(long)上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)為(wei)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)。"天(tian)復(fu)"為(wei)唐昭宗(zong)年(nian)(nian)號,可(ke)見在唐代(dai)穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)已(yi)有道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)。南宋時(shi),敕平(ping)江西(xi)郊拓地(di)八百畝創(chuang)朝真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan),穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)沈道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)祥為(wei)開山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)之祖(zu)。元末,殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇遭火焚而毀(hui)。明初(chu)(chu),穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)有上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan),殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇頗多,香火極盛。清(qing)初(chu)(chu)順(shun)治年(nian)(nian)間(jian),穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)著名(ming)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)士施(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)淵(yuan)棲穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茅(mao)君(jun)(jun)故宮(gong),鳩(jiu)材修(xiu)葺殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)堂,不數(shu)年(nian)(nian),初(chu)(chu)其建(jian)筑群體(ti)。施(shi)曾從(cong)王常月受戒,為(wei)全真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)龍(long)門派第八代(dai),后改宗(zong)正一(yi)(yi),開創(chuang)穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)支派,于是聲(sheng)名(ming)顯赫,四方征請(qing)。(《金蓋心燈》)順(shun)治十五年(nian)(nian),敕賜(si)上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)院(yuan)額,康熙初(chu)(chu)年(nian)(nian)又修(xiu)筑上(shang)(shang)帝(di)、三(san)茅(mao)二殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)及諸配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian),建(jian)井泉(quan)于山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)門。五十三(san)年(nian)(nian),重(zhong)修(xiu)各殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。六十一(yi)(yi)年(nian)(nian)有三(san)茅(mao)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)君(jun)(jun)埏嗣以自置田捐獻(xian),為(wei)永遠修(xiu)建(jian)之費(fei)。乾(qian)隆(long)年(nian)(nian)間(jian),又有郡人(ren)修(xiu)上(shang)(shang)帝(di)、三(san)茅(mao)二殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian),有姓金者捐建(jian)大士閣(ge)。乾(qian)隆(long)元年(nian)(nian),有里中(zhong)富人(ren)重(zhong)建(jian)仙(xian)師(shi)門樓,置修(xiu)葺田入其院(yuan)。七年(nian)(nian)又有里人(ren)捐修(xiu)各殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。據《玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)志》載:清(qing)初(chu)(chu)順(shun)治間(jian),龍(long)虎(hu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)五十三(san)代(dai)天(tian)師(shi)張洪任游訪(fang)穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),清(qing)廷賜(si)額"上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)",并(bing)賜(si)穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)士施(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)淵(yuan)號"養元抱一(yi)(yi)宣教演化法師(shi)"。清(qing)顧詒祿《鐵竹道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)畫(hua)像》云:"時(shi)吳(wu)中(zhong)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)之盛,首推穹(qiong)窿(long)。郡城(cheng)玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan),殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇巍然。年(nian)(nian)久殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)傾,太傅金文通公延請(qing)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)淵(yuan)主觀(guan)(guan)(guan)復(fu)修(xiu)。"可(ke)見當(dang)時(shi)穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)之盛已(yi)超過了玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)。
清朝末(mo)年,上真觀殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)堂(tang)軒閣,有房(fang)二(er)千余間,分(fen)三(san)(san)十六房(fang)分(fen)管,有宮殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)軒閣堂(tang)四十余座。如(ru)天(tian)妃宮、祖師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玉皇殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)(san)元(yuan)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)(san)茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、純陽殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(呂(lv)祖殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian))、雷(lei)齊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、靈官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玄帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、文昌殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、太乙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神虎殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、星(xing)(xing)(xing)宿殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神農殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、龍(long)王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、天(tian)將殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、送(song)子殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、五土殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、花(hua)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、東岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、四將殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火(huo)樨(xi)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、蛇王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、樂(le)王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火(huo)神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)(san)星(xing)(xing)(xing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、都土殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、如(ru)意軒、斗姆閣、魁(kui)星(xing)(xing)(xing)閣、華仙閣、七(qi)仙居、餐(can)花(hua)居、吉禪房(fang)、養和堂(tang)等等。這些殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇(yu)星(xing)(xing)(xing)羅(luo)棋布(bu),建筑宏偉;堂(tang)內神像,塑造精巧,形象(xiang)逼真,栩栩如(ru)生(sheng)。
民國時,穹(qiong)窿山(shan)道教(jiao)殿(dian)宇除關帝(di)殿(dian)、龍王(wang)殿(dian)、呂祖殿(dian)、財神(shen)殿(dian)等外,其(qi)余均毀于大火,據穹(qiong)窿山(shan)老(lao)法師姚臥松所述,抗日(ri)戰爭期間,穹(qiong)窿山(shan)上真觀尚有道士(shi)二十余人。"文革"時,殿(dian)宇全部毀壞。
自1978年后(hou)(hou),在(zai)人(ren)民政府的關(guan)懷下(xia),蘇州穹(qiong)窿山道(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)也得(de)到復興。1991年,上真觀在(zai)原址上恢(hui)復重(zhong)建。十多年來(lai),在(zai)道(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)信眾的支持下(xia),先后(hou)(hou)建起了頭山門(men)、龍王(wang)殿、玉皇殿、三清(qing)殿、望(wang)湖亭等一批道(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)建筑和景點。目前,上真觀有道(dao)士(shi)10多人(ren)。
穹(qiong)窿山(shan)(shan)上(shang)真觀自施法(fa)師在順治年(nian)間擴建后,歷經康熙(xi)、道光、同治幾朝(chao)修建,規模空前,"雙闕(que)巍峨,瓊宮璀璨,危樓杰閣聳插(cha)霄漢,遂(sui)使茲山(shan)(shan)名勝(sheng)于吳中(zhong)。"清順治進士(shi)董含《登穹(qiong)窿謁勾曲(qu)行宮》詩云:"山(shan)(shan)勢岧峣欲到難,玉(yu)真宮殿擁千官。洞口斷(duan)云朝(chao)放鶴,石根晴(qing)樹暮棲鸞(luan)。金(jin)門(men)羽(yu)客龍泥印,夜禮星辰上(shang)醮壇。"描繪(hui)了當年(nian)穹(qiong)窿山(shan)(shan)山(shan)(shan)勢高(gao)峻、道觀宏偉、醮事香火之盛況。
乾隆(long)皇帝六次南(nan)巡,有(you)四次去了上真觀,曾留詩贊(zan)曰:"震澤天(tian)連水,洞庭西復東(dong),雙眸望無(wu)盡,諸慮對宜空;三萬(wan)六千頃,春風秋月中(zhong),五車稟精氣,誰詔陸龜蒙。"此詩鐫刻立(li)碑于穹窿(long)望湖亭(ting)中(zhong)。
施(shi)(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵(yuan),又名(ming)亮生,號鐵竹道(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)。人(ren)稱施(shi)(shi)大法師或施(shi)(shi)煉師,蘇州橫(heng)塘人(ren),出(chu)身貧寒,13歲上穹(qiong)(qiong)窿山(shan)為(wei)道(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)。爾后(hou)下山(shan)闖(chuang)蕩江湖,入李(li)自(zi)(zi)(zi)成部(bu)下,旋為(wei)大順政權樞密院(yuan)工作。由于(yu)(yu)李(li)自(zi)(zi)(zi)成部(bu)發生內(nei)訌(hong),自(zi)(zi)(zi)相殘殺,導致失敗。于(yu)(yu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)施(shi)(shi)亮生深(shen)感(gan)世態炎涼,看破(po)紅塵,復(fu)回穹(qiong)(qiong)窿山(shan)隱居,深(shen)居簡出(chu),修道(dao)(dao)(dao)養身。當(dang)(dang)時道(dao)(dao)(dao)觀已處于(yu)(yu)衰(shuai)敗境地。有一(yi)(yi)(yi)天,施(shi)(shi)法師正在念(nian)(nian)玉皇經,當(dang)(dang)念(nian)(nian)到(dao),"敕命(ming)東(dong)(dong)方,東(dong)(dong)華帝君,青騎(qi)神仙兵馬,無鞅數(shu)眾,悉令下降,覆護受持,是(shi)(shi)(shi)此(ci)經者……"時,恰(qia)巧當(dang)(dang)時清皇朝(chao)順治皇叔裕(yu)親(qin)(qin)(qin)王(wang)到(dao)蘇州盤檢太倉(cang)國帑銀兩返京,路(lu)過穹(qiong)(qiong)窿山(shan)麓,隱約聽到(dao)山(shan)上人(ren)聲沸騰,劍聲馬嘶,感(gan)到(dao)好(hao)生奇怪(guai),此(ci)莫(mo)非(fei)是(shi)(shi)(shi)大王(wang)山(shan)不(bu)成?倒是(shi)(shi)(shi)要看個究竟(jing)。他帶了(le)兩個隨從(cong)登峰,到(dao)山(shan)頂一(yi)(yi)(yi)看,只見(jian)數(shu)間茅屋,里面(mian)傳出(chu)木魚(yu)雷(lei)音,不(bu)見(jian)人(ren)影(ying)馬匹。進屋僅見(jian)一(yi)(yi)(yi)位道(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)正襟危坐,口中念(nian)(nian)念(nian)(nian)有詞,已感(gan)此(ci)人(ren)非(fei)同一(yi)(yi)(yi)般。良久(jiu),皇叔終于(yu)(yu)認出(chu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)施(shi)(shi)法師,十(shi)多年不(bu)見(jian),兩人(ren)親(qin)(qin)(qin)密無間,促膝交談。施(shi)(shi)法師說自(zi)(zi)(zi)己已看破(po)紅塵,覺得穹(qiong)(qiong)窿山(shan)能讓自(zi)(zi)(zi)己清靜修道(dao)(dao)(dao),實是(shi)(shi)(shi)理想(xiang)之地,不(bu)亦(yi)樂乎?裕(yu)親(qin)(qin)(qin)王(wang)說:"既如此(ci),何不(bu)增建(jian)殿(dian)宇,創其宏業?"施(shi)(shi)法師一(yi)(yi)(yi)笑:"貧道(dao)(dao)(dao)哪有這巨資擴建(jian)。"裕(yu)親(qin)(qin)(qin)王(wang)沉思片(pian)刻說:"只要施(shi)(shi)法師籌劃(hua)何數(shu)目,終能實現,不(bu)過,道(dao)(dao)(dao)觀以建(jian)在三(san)茅峰為(wei)妥。"施(shi)(shi)法師點頭稱是(shi)(shi)(shi)。不(bu)久(jiu),朝(chao)廷(ting)撥帑興建(jian),到(dao)康熙三(san)年春(chun)已建(jian)成26殿(dian)及輔房樓閣數(shu)千間。
上真觀坐(zuo)落于穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)上,乘坐(zuo)43路(lu)、64路(lu)公交車均能到(dao)達。