陽(yang)泉漂(piao)抿曲(qu)(qu),亦稱抿曲(qu)(qu)、小(xiao)河撈,是山西陽(yang)泉的一種(zhong)傳(chuan)統面(mian)食。陽(yang)泉抿曲(qu)(qu)是以綠豆(dou)摻(chan)少量精白面(mian)粉(fen)和面(mian),經特制(zhi)抿曲(qu)(qu)床壓制(zhi)而成(cheng)。煮熟后(hou)撈入各種(zhong)調料配(pei)制(zhi)成(cheng)的湯汁中即可(ke)飄起。它長(chang)如掛面(mian),細如毛粉(fen),清香利口,鮮(xian)味(wei)撲鼻(bi),富有營養,風味(wei)別致,還具有消火消暑之功效。
明(ming)末清初的學(xue)界(jie)泰斗傅山(shan)(shan)先生(sheng)(sheng)也曾(ceng)作《小河撈記》對漂(piao)抿(min)曲(qu)(qu)大加贊(zan)賞(shang)。傅山(shan)(shan)先生(sheng)(sheng)曾(ceng)發(fa)明(ming)了養(yang)(yang)生(sheng)(sheng)水(shui)(shui)和面代替普通的水(shui)(shui)和面,如:春用枸杞、桑(sang)葚之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui),夏(xia)為(wei)(wei)黃(huang)耆、薏仁之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui),秋用山(shan)(shan)藥、百(bai)合(he)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui),冬為(wei)(wei)地黃(huang)、當歸之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui),養(yang)(yang)生(sheng)(sheng)則用米脯之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui),間或連翹、雙花(hua)、公英、炭白芨(ji)等等之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui)。由此形成了漂(piao)抿(min)曲(qu)(qu)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)博(bo)奧:“貴在絲(si),精在飄,味在湯,養(yang)(yang)在面,左(zuo)右相(xiang)承,合(he)四時生(sheng)(sheng)生(sheng)(sheng)不息(xi)。”漂(piao)抿(min)曲(qu)(qu)以綠豆粉為(wei)(wei)主要原(yuan)料,李時珍(zhen)《本草綱目》中稱綠豆為(wei)(wei)“食中要物,菜中佳品”,有清熱解毒(du)、明(ming)目降壓之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)功效,加之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)傅山(shan)(shan)養(yang)(yang)生(sheng)(sheng)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)(shui),豆面漂(piao)抿(min)曲(qu)(qu)便成為(wei)(wei)了一種養(yang)(yang)生(sheng)(sheng)美食。可(ke)惜山(shan)(shan)城人卻沒能發(fa)揚光(guang)大。雖然(ran)現在許多飯店都有漂(piao)抿(min)曲(qu)(qu)這道(dao)小食,但(dan)沒有做(zuo)成養(yang)(yang)生(sheng)(sheng)美食,多少讓人感到(dao)遺憾。
漂(piao)抿(min)(min)曲一般用豆面(mian)制作,用如(ru)掛面(mian)一樣細的(de)細抿(min)(min)曲床抿(min)(min)到開水鍋中煮(zhu)(zhu)熟后,把滾開的(de)煮(zhu)(zhu)湯(tang)舀到已經(jing)下好佐(zuo)料(liao)的(de)碗(wan)里(li),再(zai)把熟抿(min)(min)曲撈(lao)進碗(wan)里(li),抿(min)(min)曲就(jiu)漂(piao)在碗(wan)里(li)的(de)面(mian)湯(tang)上了。所(suo)以叫“漂(piao)抿(min)(min)曲”。漂(piao)抿(min)(min)曲的(de)味道好不好,抿(min)(min)曲能否漂(piao)起來,秘密全在于放醬、醋(cu)、香油(you)、鹽、蔥、芫荽(sui)等佐(zuo)料(liao)擱多少(shao)與先后次序中。