簡介
“大(da)金頂(ding)(ding)”則(ze)是(shi)指湖北省十堰(yan)市(shi)轄(xia)區丹(dan)江口(kou)市(shi)(古(gu)均州)的(de)武(wu)當山。在(zai)傳統習慣(guan)中(zhong),朝(chao)均州武(wu)當山者(zhe)(zhe),先要來到(dao)襄陽(yang)真(zhen)(zhen)武(wu)山,給真(zhen)(zhen)武(wu)大(da)帝上表章,算在(zai)真(zhen)(zhen)武(wu)大(da)帝處報了(le)到(dao)。有(you)錢財和(he)精力者(zhe)(zhe)當繼(ji)續去武(wu)當山天柱峰朝(chao)金頂(ding)(ding),錢財精力不足或患病者(zhe)(zhe)可就此回(hui)轉,也算實現了(le)朝(chao)拜真(zhen)(zhen)武(wu)大(da)帝的(de)心愿。
真(zhen)武山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)又名龜(gui)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),因(yin)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)形似龜(gui),雄踞襄陽城外(wai)和漢(han)江邊(bian)而得(de)名,俗稱九宮(gong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)。因(yin)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上建(jian)有(you)真(zhen)武廟,故又有(you)“小武當”、“小金頂”、“真(zhen)武山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)”之稱,襄陽居(ju)民訛(e)音稱“周公山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)”。真(zhen)武山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)腳下,有(you)李曾(ceng)伯《襄樊銘(ming)》的摩(mo)崖石(shi)刻(ke)和劉(liu)備馬躍檀(tan)溪遺(yi)址。每年三月(yue)三(據說農歷三月(yue)三為(wei)真(zhen)武大(da)帝生辰),這里游人(ren)如織,信眾云(yun)集。平日(ri)訪者不(bu)斷,偶有(you)港、澳、臺及海(hai)外(wai)人(ren)士(shi)遠(yuan)道來(lai)訪,真(zhen)武山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)聲名遠(yuan)播可見一(yi)斑(ban)。
仙山緣起編輯
山(shan)(shan)頂(ding)道觀(guan)幾間磚(zhuan)木(mu)廟宇是明朝宣德年間襄陽(yang)人蕭旭募建的,早已(yi)坍毀,而今真武山(shan)(shan)道觀(guan)是仿武當山(shan)(shan)祖(zu)師(shi)殿(dian)(dian)恢(hui)復性(xing)建筑,分上、中、下三觀(guan),已(yi)初具規模。白玉(yu)臺基,玉(yu)欄四圍(wei),蟠龍(long)躍然于石階之(zhi)(zhi)上,重(zhong)檐(yan)隆起大殿(dian)(dian)巍峨凝重(zhong),偏(pian)殿(dian)(dian)碧瓦(wa)翹(qiao)角,鼎(ding)爐香煙裊裊,百米(mi)多長的紅墻(qiang)蜿(wan)蜒鑲砌在(zai)峰側陡巖(yan),琉璃屋(wu)頂(ding)閃耀空際。古建筑依山(shan)(shan)取勢(shi)(shi),錯落有致;且屹(yi)立(li)(li)漢江(jiang)岸畔,青(qing)山(shan)(shan)碧水,詩情畫意,宛若仙(xian)境。佇(zhu)立(li)(li)山(shan)(shan)上,危崖高聳,有遺世獨(du)立(li)(li)之(zhi)(zhi)感。絕壁之(zhi)(zhi)上百米(mi)圍(wei)墻(qiang)紅墻(qiang)綠瓦(wa),大殿(dian)(dian)之(zhi)(zhi)中真武金身威(wei)嚴如儀。東南(nan)方向峴(xian)山(shan)(shan)、琵琶山(shan)(shan)滿(man)目蔥蘢。俯瞰山(shan)(shan)下襄樊(fan)二城氣勢(shi)(shi)恢(hui)宏,漢水浩蕩,氣象萬千。
資料記(ji)(ji)載(zai)(zai)(zai):唐宋元(yuan)時,山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上已有多處廟(miao)舍。《襄陽府志(zhi)(zhi)》記(ji)(ji)載(zai)(zai)(zai):明(ming)永(yong)樂十年(1412年),明(ming)成祖降諭修建武當山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)宮觀(guan)。滿載(zai)(zai)(zai)“管運武當山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)琉璃(li)諸物(wu)”小船數(shu)以(yi)“萬計”,停泊(bo)襄陽龜山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)下的漢(han)江邊(bian),“時風濤(tao)方作,頃之(zhi)祥云數(shu)見,水天(tian)一(yi)色,咸謂元(yuan)帝(di)(真武大帝(di))顯(xian)應”,于(yu)是先(xian)(xian)在(zai)此山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)修建玄(xuan)武真宮,龜山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)也隨之(zhi)更名真武山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)。《襄陽縣(xian)志(zhi)(zhi)(卷二建置寺(si)觀(guan))》記(ji)(ji)載(zai)(zai)(zai):“真武廟(miao)在(zai)九(jiu)宮山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),明(ming)宣德中(zhong)里(li)人(ren)蕭旭始立廟(miao),……香火日(ri)盛,號為小武當”。《襄陽縣(xian)志(zhi)(zhi)(卷一(yi)地(di)理(li))》記(ji)(ji)載(zai)(zai)(zai):“龜山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)在(zai)縣(xian)西四里(li),一(yi)名小武當山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),俗(su)呼九(jiu)宮山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上有石,襄人(ren)以(yi)三月三日(ri)來游(you),謂可免災。山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)麓有劉先(xian)(xian)主亭(名勝志(zhi)(zhi)),山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)腰有礤礤石鐫天(tian)峰清眺(tiao)四字。雍正間,守道魯之(zhi)裕以(yi)羊叔子宴游(you)當在(zai)是山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)”。
在(zai)歷史(shi)傳統(tong)習慣中(zhong),朝(chao)(chao)(chao)武(wu)(wu)當山(shan)首先(xian)要到真(zhen)武(wu)(wu)山(shan)給真(zhen)武(wu)(wu)大帝上表章,算是報到。據(ju)《太(tai)岳(yue)太(tai)和山(shan)紀略》記載:“真(zhen)武(wu)(wu)觀……在(zai)襄陽城西(xi)二里……謁太(tai)和(武(wu)(wu)當山(shan)太(tai)和宮)者(zhe)先(xian)奏表于此(ci)”。財富(fu)力強者(zhe),繼續去均州(今丹江口(kou))武(wu)(wu)當山(shan)天柱峰(feng)朝(chao)(chao)(chao)金頂,錢(qian)乏(fa)體弱者(zhe),到真(zhen)武(wu)(wu)山(shan)即(ji)使回轉也算還(huan)了(le)朝(chao)(chao)(chao)拜真(zhen)武(wu)(wu)大帝的心(xin)愿(yuan)。
幾經滄桑
真武(wu)(wu)(wu)山(shan)道(dao)(dao)觀(guan)(guan),歷(li)史上是武(wu)(wu)(wu)當山(shan)系列道(dao)(dao)觀(guan)(guan)中的(de)第一(yi)道(dao)(dao)觀(guan)(guan),其規模屬其中最(zui)大(da)的(de),海(hai)內外享有(you)盛名(ming)。因道(dao)(dao)觀(guan)(guan)毗(pi)鄰(lin)漢江(jiang),處在(zai)鄂、川、陜、湘(xiang)、桂、滇數省來往的(de)通衢大(da)道(dao)(dao),水(shui)旱(han)碼頭,交通十分便利,眾多香(xiang)(xiang)客慕真武(wu)(wu)(wu)神(shen)應,使(shi)鄂西北“小武(wu)(wu)(wu)當”增添(tian)無限(xian)光彩(cai)。從(cong)農歷(li)臘月三十到三月三,到真武(wu)(wu)(wu)山(shan)朝山(shan)敬(jing)香(xiang)(xiang)的(de)香(xiang)(xiang)客最(zui)多。直到上世紀六十年(nian)代初期,真武(wu)(wu)(wu)山(shan)道(dao)(dao)觀(guan)(guan)香(xiang)(xiang)客仍然十分興盛。在(zai)鼎盛時期,道(dao)(dao)觀(guan)(guan)建筑的(de)殿(dian)(dian)堂、房屋(wu)有(you)350多間,道(dao)(dao)人近百人。后(hou)來,大(da)部(bu)分殿(dian)(dian)堂毀(hui)于(yu)戰火。“文革(ge)”中僅存(cun)的(de)祖師殿(dian)(dian)、圣(sheng)公圣(sheng)母殿(dian)(dian)、娘娘殿(dian)(dian)又被(bei)當作“四舊”拆毀(hui),道(dao)(dao)教活(huo)動(dong)一(yi)度中止。
十(shi)一屆三(san)中全會以后,襄陽(yang)市(shi)(shi)道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)徒和(he)廣大信士弟(di)子多(duo)(duo)次(ci)(ci)向市(shi)(shi)民族宗教(jiao)局(ju)和(he)上級宗教(jiao)事務(wu)主(zhu)管部門提(ti)出(chu)恢復真(zhen)武(wu)(wu)山道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)活動(dong)場(chang)所(suo)的(de)要求(qiu);部分市(shi)(shi)人(ren)大代(dai)表和(he)政協(xie)委(wei)(wei)員多(duo)(duo)次(ci)(ci)提(ti)出(chu)恢復真(zhen)武(wu)(wu)山道(dao)(dao)觀和(he)道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)活動(dong)議案。1994年8月(yue)30日,襄陽(yang)市(shi)(shi)委(wei)(wei)、市(shi)(shi)政府研究決定恢復真(zhen)武(wu)(wu)山道(dao)(dao)觀,并將真(zhen)武(wu)(wu)山的(de)道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)活動(dong)場(chang)所(suo)開(kai)放。1995年以后,幾(ji)經協(xie)調(diao),真(zhen)武(wu)(wu)山的(de)開(kai)山炸石(shi)(shi)局(ju)面得以制止,政府投資100多(duo)(duo)萬元治理了因開(kai)山炸石(shi)(shi)造(zao)成的(de)山體塌陷。幾(ji)年來(lai),在市(shi)(shi)委(wei)(wei)、市(shi)(shi)政府和(he)社會各界的(de)大力(li)支持(chi)和(he)幫助下,道(dao)(dao)觀恢復性建設(she)進展順利,現已初具規模。
現在,真武山新(xin)(xin)建(jian)了道觀(guan)殿堂9座、生活(huo)配套設(she)施33間、新(xin)(xin)塑神像14尊。山下新(xin)(xin)落(luo)成的真武山道觀(guan)石(shi)牌坊,巍峨莊嚴。真武山廣場建(jian)設(she)已具雛(chu)形(xing)。雖然(ran)道觀(guan)一直處(chu)于恢復性建(jian)設(she)之中,仍不時可以看到有虔誠(cheng)的香(xiang)客和慕名而來的游覽者。
2003年10月(yue)1至7日(ri)(ri)(農歷9月(yue)初(chu)6至12日(ri)(ri)),經襄(xiang)陽(yang)(yang)市(shi)宗教(jiao)局批準,真武(wu)(wu)山(shan)道(dao)(dao)(dao)觀(guan)舉(ju)(ju)辦九月(yue)九廟會(hui),農歷9月(yue)9日(ri)(ri)是(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)教(jiao)傳統節日(ri)(ri),是(shi)真武(wu)(wu)祖(zu)師修道(dao)(dao)(dao)成仙(xian)之(zhi)日(ri)(ri),每逢此日(ri)(ri),各(ge)方(fang)信士游客紛(fen)紛(fen)到真武(wu)(wu)山(shan)朝圣真武(wu)(wu)祖(zu)師。這是(shi)1995年恢(hui)復道(dao)(dao)(dao)教(jiao)活動以來(lai)(lai)第一次舉(ju)(ju)辦廟會(hui),為(wei)答謝多年來(lai)(lai)各(ge)方(fang)對建(jian)設的(de)支持,真武(wu)(wu)山(shan)道(dao)(dao)(dao)觀(guan)經韻團道(dao)(dao)(dao)眾(zhong)特為(wei)廣大(da)信眾(zhong)和游客作祈福迎祥大(da)法會(hui),邀請武(wu)(wu)當(dang)山(shan)武(wu)(wu)道(dao)(dao)(dao)功(gong)夫團、湖南省精武(wu)(wu)醒獅團隊進(jin)行(xing)了7天14場道(dao)(dao)(dao)教(jiao)武(wu)(wu)當(dang)神功(gong)和舞獅表演,這是(shi)襄(xiang)陽(yang)(yang)市(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)教(jiao)信眾(zhong)的(de)一大(da)幸事。
名山風采
宛如(ru)三角翠屏的(de)真武(wu)山(shan),橫亙在襄陽城西南。從檀溪路南望,她身背綿(mian)延的(de)五嶺(ling),虎頭、華山(shan)、鳳凰高聳,端坐在蔥(cong)蘢懷(huai)抱之中,不(bu)(bu)起(qi)眼的(de)小(xiao)山(shan)頭,文化積淀可謂深厚。幾(ji)百年(nian)來,出于飽覽“山(shan)水觀形勝,襄陽美會稽”勝境心態的(de)并不(bu)(bu)多,朝拜(bai)“小(xiao)頂”卻(que)成時尚,與武(wu)當山(shan)大頂齊名(ming),年(nian)節更是蜂擁,祈求(qiu)真武(wu)祖師庇佑,印證了千年(nian)名(ming)句:“山(shan)不(bu)(bu)在高,有仙則名(ming)。”
遠望(wang)真武(wu),峰嶺高低各(ge)不相同(tong),如從東(dong)麓望(wang)去,一(yi)線刀(dao)刃(ren),高可(ke)及天,似(si)有“自(zi)古(gu)華山(shan)一(yi)條(tiao)路(lu)”的險(xian)絕;西坡一(yi)片郁郁蔥(cong)(cong)蔥(cong)(cong),林濤沙沙,登(deng)臨此(ci)山(shan),輕風拂面,怡神開(kai)懷(huai);倚欄極(ji)目(mu)小望(wang),古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)新貌(mao),玉帶映(ying)襯(chen),浩(hao)淼漢江從天際(ji)而來;萬頃(qing)沃野,一(yi)展平疇,大河急轉南下,宛如有意環抱襄(xiang)州古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)、真乃天地造化;南山(shan)一(yi)帶群(qun)山(shan)起(qi)伏,真武(wu)山(shan)處(chu)于(yu)中(zhong)央尖(jian)角,水闊(kuo)天空(kong),無酒自(zi)醉。
漫步山(shan)道(dao)(dao)之上,常可(ke)見(jian)有(you)道(dao)(dao)人(ren)在后山(shan)采摘(zhai)野菜,可(ke)知觀中道(dao)(dao)人(ren)勤勞節儉(jian)。現(xian)任住持是清慧(hui)道(dao)(dao)長(chang)(chang)肖(xiao)品和,為武(wu)(wu)(wu)當(dang)派(pai)開山(shan)鼻祖(zu)張三(san)豐的第十(shi)四代正宗傳(chuan)人(ren)。肖(xiao)雖是一位年輕的道(dao)(dao)人(ren),但出(chu)家(jia)修道(dao)(dao)已有(you)多年,眉宇間透著儒雅(ya)睿智。真武(wu)(wu)(wu)山(shan)的道(dao)(dao)人(ren)在肖(xiao)道(dao)(dao)長(chang)(chang)的言傳(chuan)身(shen)教下,大部分(fen)精通武(wu)(wu)(wu)當(dang)功(gong)(gong)夫。據報道(dao)(dao),2004年11月8日(ri),20多位德國武(wu)(wu)(wu)術愛好者(zhe)專(zhuan)程來到真武(wu)(wu)(wu)山(shan)學(xue)習中國武(wu)(wu)(wu)當(dang)功(gong)(gong)夫,肖(xiao)品和道(dao)(dao)長(chang)(chang)高興地(di)傳(chuan)授(shou)給他(ta)的外國弟(di)子們一套武(wu)(wu)(wu)當(dang)三(san)豐派(pai)養生功(gong)(gong)法。
游(you)覽(lan)仙(xian)山(shan)(shan)(shan),眾多古(gu)跡(ji)如繁星(xing)點點,可謂“青(qing)山(shan)(shan)(shan)細(xi)品覓(mi)史(shi)跡(ji),不盡(jin)小山(shan)(shan)(shan)藏神(shen)秘(mi)”。首先見(jian)到矗立的巨大石(shi)額,上書“縱覽(lan)漢峴”。而就在(zai)東山(shan)(shan)(shan)麓(lu)腳(jiao),鐫(juan)刻有20平方(fang)(fang)米的摩巖,記載著宋末抗擊入侵的戰績--“紀功銘”。《三國演義(yi)》中劉(liu)(liu)備(bei)(bei)馬(ma)躍檀(tan)溪(xi)的故事(shi)也(ye)發生在(zai)這里。在(zai)真武山(shan)(shan)(shan)北(bei)麓(lu),一青(qing)石(shi)上粗大的馬(ma)蹄印跡(ji)至今猶在(zai),保存完好(hao)。相傳是(shi)劉(liu)(liu)備(bei)(bei)騎馬(ma)飛躍檀(tan)溪(xi)的地(di)方(fang)(fang),是(shi)“三國”時期著名的遺跡(ji)之一。
南(nan)坡幽谷(gu)陡立著直插天(tian)(tian)穹的石壁(bi),此為開(kai)山(shan)(shan)取石所(suo)留(liu)遺(yi)(yi)跡。上個世(shi)紀這里(li)開(kai)山(shan)(shan)炸石,滿足(zu)城鄉建設(she)需要,硬是劈去半面山(shan)(shan)體,人(ren)工開(kai)山(shan)(shan)遺(yi)(yi)跡平添了(le)名山(shan)(shan)新(xin)景(jing)。走(zou)進狹窄谷(gu)道,褐(he)石棱峋,佇立仰望,壁(bi)立千仞,錯落欲崩(beng),氣(qi)勢恢宏,賞玩秀(xiu)麗(li)風光后,這里(li)又是一番強悍豪邁氣(qi)勢。唐(tang)代詩人(ren)孟(meng)浩然(ran)(ran)曾詠(yong)唱故鄉山(shan)(shan)巒“石壁(bi)疑削成”,此情此景(jing),兀然(ran)(ran)眼前。山(shan)(shan)頂的紅(hong)墻小樹,如月宮瓊閣桂枝懸(xuan)于空中,讓人(ren)頓生“不敢高聲語,恐驚天(tian)(tian)上人(ren)”之感。
據真(zhen)武(wu)山(shan)肖(xiao)品和道長(chang)所言,道觀計劃配合真(zhen)武(wu)山(shan)廣場建(jian)設(she)在(zai)山(shan)下建(jian)造一些(xie)房舍,以備接待之(zhi)用;在(zai)南坡(po)幽谷半(ban)崖(ya)處將(jiang)(jiang)修建(jian)南巖宮(gong);石(shi)壁(bi)將(jiang)(jiang)建(jian)成(cheng)大型摩(mo)崖(ya)石(shi)刻(ke),刻(ke)道德五千言于其上。可以想見,將(jiang)(jiang)來的真(zhen)武(wu)山(shan)定將(jiang)(jiang)別有(you)一番風光。