明(ming)皇陵(ling)初(chu)建之(zhi)時(shi)占(zhan)地約(yue)2萬余(yu)畝,于元(yuan)至正二十(shi)六年(nian)(nian)(公元(yuan)1366年(nian)(nian))始建,洪武十(shi)二年(nian)(nian)(公元(yuan)1379年(nian)(nian))竣工。洪武二年(nian)(nian),薦號(hao)英陵(ling),后改稱皇陵(ling)。明(ming)皇陵(ling)主要有皇城、磚城、土城三道,殿(dian)宇、房舍千余(yu)間,陵(ling)丘(qiu)(qiu)、石刻(ke)群等。明(ming)末以(yi)來(lai),人為(wei)破壞和風(feng)雨侵(qin)蝕,宮(gong)闕殿(dian)宇廢為(wei)遺址,現僅存陵(ling)丘(qiu)(qiu)及石刻(ke)群。明(ming)皇陵(ling)雖非帝王之(zhi)陵(ling),但“宮(gong)闕殿(dian)宇、壯麗森嚴(yan)”。
明(ming)皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)(ling)有三(san)重城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣,里為皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周長(chang)251米,四(si)門(men)(men)紅(hong)土泥飾(shi),中(zhong)為磚城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周長(chang)約3公里,外為土城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),周長(chang)14公里。明(ming)皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)(ling)總(zong)體布局采用“三(san)套方(fang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)”,把陵(ling)(ling)園(yuan)展(zhan)成三(san)重城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣的(de)格(ge)局,將石刻列(lie)置(zhi)于(yu)皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之前,陵(ling)(ling)墓在(zai)皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之后,享殿居皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)之中(zhong),華表置(zhi)于(yu)石獸(shou)與石人石馬之間。明(ming)皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)(ling)由于(yu)陵(ling)(ling)向(xiang)坐南(nan)朝(chao)北(bei)偏東(dong),因(yin)此坐落在(zai)南(nan)北(bei)中(zhong)軸線(xian)上的(de)建筑物均是面(mian)對(dui)北(bei)向(xiang),且(qie)以外城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)門(men)(men)為正門(men)(men),明(ming)顯的(de)斜向(xiang)東(dong)北(bei)的(de)中(zhong)都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。由北(bei)而南(nan)進(jin)土城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正紅(hong)門(men)(men),依(yi)次為紅(hong)橋、欞星(xing)門(men)(men)、磚城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)明(ming)樓(lou)、神道、御橋、皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)金門(men)(men)、皇(huang)(huang)堂(tang)、皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)后紅(hong)門(men)(men)、墳丘、磚城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)明(ming)樓(lou)、土城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)門(men)(men)。在(zai)這條3.4公里長(chang)的(de)中(zhong)軸線(xian)兩(liang)旁,對(dui)稱(cheng)(cheng)的(de)建有東(dong)角門(men)(men)和(he)西(xi)(xi)角門(men)(men),左右兩(liang)排石像(xiang)生,皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)(ling)碑和(he)無字碑,東(dong)廡和(he)西(xi)(xi)廡,東(dong)明(ming)樓(lou)和(he)西(xi)(xi)明(ming)樓(lou),東(dong)門(men)(men)和(he)西(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)。陵(ling)(ling)垣內外的(de)其(qi)他建筑,也(ye)大(da)體是東(dong)西(xi)(xi)對(dui)稱(cheng)(cheng)或南(nan)北(bei)對(dui)稱(cheng)(cheng)。
皇城
皇(huang)陵修建(jian)時建(jian)皇(huang)城一(yi)(yi)座(zuo),磚壘,高二丈,周(zhou)七十(shi)五丈五尺,紅土(tu)泥飭。正殿九間(jian)(jian),丹陛(bi)三級(ji),黃(huang)琉璃瓦(wa)、青碧(bi)繪(hui)彩。金(jin)門(men)五間(jian)(jian)。左右廡,各(ge)十(shi)一(yi)(yi)間(jian)(jian)。燎爐一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)。角門(men)左右各(ge)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)。后紅門(men)五座(zuo)。碑(bei)亭左右各(ge)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)。御橋五座(zuo),跨金(jin)水河。華(hua)表并(bing)石人(ren)、石獸共三十(shi)六對,在北城門(men)內,兩傍直抵金(jin)門(men)外御橋北止(zhi)。以上俱(ju)黃(huang)琉璃瓦(wa),青碧(bi)彩繪(hui),二十(shi)家(jia)人(ren)戶輪流(liu)直守。
磚城
皇陵建磚城(cheng)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),里(li)(li)外磚筑,高二(er)(er)丈(zhang),周(zhou)六(liu)(liu)里(li)(li)一(yi)百一(yi)十八步,開(kai)四門(men)(men)(men),俱(ju)有樓。城(cheng)樓四門(men)(men)(men)四座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)重檐。具服(fu)殿(dian)(dian)六(liu)(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳廚(chu)(chu)二(er)(er)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。官(guan)廳六(liu)(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。直房(fang)為(wei)四門(men)(men)(men)直房(fang)左右各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),欞星門(men)(men)(men)外直房(fang)左右各(ge)(ge)十一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。以(yi)上俱(ju)阜瓦(wa)。欞星門(men)(men)(men)三(san)(san)(san)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),綠琉(liu)璃飭。紅橋共五(wu)(wu)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。以(yi)上十一(yi)社人(ren)戶(hu)(hu)輪(lun)流(liu)看(kan)守(shou)(shou)。神廚(chu)(chu)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),在北(bei)(bei)(bei)城(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)外東(dong)(dong)。二(er)(er)十家廚(chu)(chu)役人(ren)戶(hu)(hu)直守(shou)(shou)。神廚(chu)(chu)五(wu)(wu)門(men)(men)(men)。神庫南北(bei)(bei)(bei)各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。宰牲廚(chu)(chu)六(liu)(liu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。酒房(fang)五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。門(men)(men)(men)三(san)(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。天池(chi)一(yi)口。鼓房(fang)一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),遇祭支更。齋宮(gong)一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),去北(bei)(bei)(bei)城(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)東(dong)(dong)北(bei)(bei)(bei)一(yi)里(li)(li),新收(shou)入戶(hu)(hu)輪(lun)流(liu)直日看(kan)守(shou)(shou)。正殿(dian)(dian)五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。穿堂三(san)(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。寢(qin)殿(dian)(dian)五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。膳廚(chu)(chu)五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。左右廡各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅門(men)(men)(men)三(san)(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。中門(men)(men)(men)五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。廂房(fang)東(dong)(dong)西各(ge)(ge)五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。角門(men)(men)(men)二(er)(er)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。直房(fang)東(dong)(dong)西各(ge)(ge)三(san)(san)(san)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。紅橋三(san)(san)(san)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),已阜瓦(wa)蓋建。混堂一(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo),去北(bei)(bei)(bei)城(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)東(dong)(dong)北(bei)(bei)(bei)二(er)(er)里(li)(li),新收(shou)入戶(hu)(hu)直守(shou)(shou)。正房(fang)五(wu)(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。水池(chi)二(er)(er)座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)。門(men)(men)(men)一(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。
土城
皇陵建土城一(yi)(yi)座(zuo),周(zhou)二(er)十(shi)八(ba)里,四(si)十(shi)四(si)社人戶輪流直(zhi)(zhi)守,撥設(she)皇陵衛巡(xun)綽。正紅(hong)門(men)(men)三座(zuo),在(zai)(zai)北(bei),向東(dong)北(bei)。神路長三里,傍植松柏,路達都城,亦設(she)本衛巡(xun)守。東(dong)西角(jiao)門(men)(men)二(er)座(zuo)。官廳二(er)座(zuo),即祠祭署衙門(men)(men),東(dong)、西、南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)各三間。直(zhi)(zhi)房東(dong)、西、南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)外(wai)各三間。下馬牌八(ba)座(zuo),在(zai)(zai)四(si)門(men)(men)外(wai)。鋪舍十(shi)三座(zuo)。水(shui)關、大(da)水(shui)關一(yi)(yi)座(zuo),在(zai)(zai)土城東(dong)北(bei)角(jiao)內,水(shui)從此(ci)流出入淮。小(xiao)水(shui)關四(si)面共十(shi)九座(zuo)。皇堂橋一(yi)(yi)座(zuo),在(zai)(zai)大(da)水(shui)關之北(bei)。外(wai)直(zhi)(zhi)房四(si)十(shi)間,在(zai)(zai)東(dong)角(jiao)門(men)(men)外(wai),各衙門(men)(men)陪(pei)祭官駐馬處。
【皇陵城垣】
土城遺址
皇(huang)陵土(tu)(tu)城為外城,開(kai)六個門,以所朝(chao)的方向稱(cheng)東、西(xi)、南、北四門,北門東西(xi)各有一角門。土(tu)(tu)城遺址(zhi)周(zhou)長(chang)15.44公里。據當地群(qun)眾(zhong)反映,抗日(ri)戰爭期間土(tu)(tu)埂高(gao)出周(zhou)圍農田。建國后群(qun)眾(zhong)多于(yu)此(ci)取碎磚(zhuan),土(tu)(tu)埂被夷平(ping)。今(jin)遺址(zhi)依稀可見。
磚城遺址
皇陵磚城(cheng)為(wei)二道城(cheng),《鳳(feng)陽新書》載:“里(li)外磚筑,高二丈(zhang),周六里(li)一百一十八步,開(kai)四門,俱有樓(lou)”。門名以所朝方向,稱(cheng)為(wei)東、西、南、北(bei)明樓(lou)。明亡(wang)后(hou),磚城(cheng)及明樓(lou)毀圮,現僅存遺址。
皇城遺址
皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)為(wei)(wei)皇(huang)(huang)陵最里(li)一道(dao)城(cheng),《鳳陽新書》載:“磚壘,高二丈,周七十五(wu)(wu)(wu)丈五(wu)(wu)(wu)尺(chi)”。北(bei)城(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)正(zheng)中為(wei)(wei)金(jin)門(men),五(wu)(wu)(wu)間,南城(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)正(zheng)中為(wei)(wei)后紅門(men),五(wu)(wu)(wu)座。今(jin)門(men)及城(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)久毀。
【皇城(cheng)正殿遺址】
皇城正殿
正(zheng)(zheng)殿又稱“祭殿”、“享殿”、“皇堂”。明(ming)洪武(wu)十(shi)一(yi)(yi)年夏四月始建(jian),十(shi)二年閏五月丁已(yi)(yi)落成。《鳳陽新(xin)書(shu)》載:“正(zheng)(zheng)殿九間,丹陛三級,黃琉璃,青碧繪彩”。東西廡,各十(shi)一(yi)(yi)間。崇(chong)禎八年正(zheng)(zheng)月丙寅,毀于兵火。今遺址尚在(zai),仍高(gao)出附(fu)近地面(mian)。西部遺存1.6米和(he)1.3米見方(fang)柱(zhu)礎石各1塊(kuai)(kuai)、螭(chi)首石構(gou)件(jian)1塊(kuai)(kuai)。原(yuan)有(you)蟠龍欄桿柱(zhu)石一(yi)(yi)個,已(yi)(yi)運至龍興寺陳列于《明(ming)皇陵文(wen)物陳列室》內(nei)。
【皇陵陵丘】
皇陵石像生
皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)石(shi)像(xiang)生列于皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)磚城(cheng)北門內(nei)(nei)神道兩側,為32對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui),自北向南(nan)順序為麒麟(lin)2對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)、石(shi)獅8對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)、華(hua)表2對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)、石(shi)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)(ma)及控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)(ma)者6對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)、石(shi)虎4對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)、石(shi)羊4對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)、文臣(chen)、武將(jiang)、內(nei)(nei)侍各2對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)。民(min)國22年(nian)(nian)(1933年(nian)(nian))曾對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)石(shi)像(xiang)生作過一次整(zheng)修。1對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)內(nei)(nei)侍和(he)1對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)(ma)人(ren)(ren)(ren)缺(que)頭,均(jun)從頸端啟槽補上(shang),一組(zu)石(shi)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)(ma)及控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)(ma)人(ren)(ren)(ren)身部(bu)開(kai)裂,也鑿洞眼以(yi)鐵(tie)扒加固。“文化大革命”初期,石(shi)像(xiang)生遭到破壞。17對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)石(shi)獸被推(tui)倒4對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui),32條(tiao)獸腿斷缺(que),4對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)底座殘損,6對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)石(shi)人(ren)(ren)(ren),1人(ren)(ren)(ren)倒地,1人(ren)(ren)(ren)上(shang)部(bu)斷裂,華(hua)表均(jun)被推(tui)倒,斷成(cheng)2至3截,石(shi)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)(ma)及控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)(ma)人(ren)(ren)(ren)被砸得殘缺(que)不全,僅存1人(ren)(ren)(ren)3馬(ma)(ma)(ma)(ma)完好。1981年(nian)(nian)7月、1983年(nian)(nian)4月和(he)1985年(nian)(nian)6月相(xiang)繼修復,除1馬(ma)(ma)(ma)(ma)及1個控(kong)(kong)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)(ma)人(ren)(ren)(ren)外,余皆恢復原貌。石(shi)像(xiang)生均(jun)系整(zheng)塊(kuai)石(shi)料琢成(cheng),質(zhi)地堅(jian)硬(ying),呈黑(hei)色,有紅筋,皇(huang)(huang)陵(ling)石(shi)像(xiang)生歷經600余年(nian)(nian),至今石(shi)人(ren)(ren)(ren)衣(yi)著、扣帶、石(shi)獸毛發等纖細(xi)部(bu)分,仍(reng)如新刻,極為清晰。石(shi)像(xiang)生造型(xing)逼真,刻工精細(xi)。
皇陵碑
皇陵碑(bei)(bei)乃“大明(ming)皇陵之碑(bei)(bei)”的簡稱,位于皇陵神道南端西側,洪武(wu)十一(yi)年七月建(jian)。該(gai)碑(bei)(bei)由(you)碑(bei)(bei)首、云(yun)盤、碑(bei)(bei)身、駝峰和(he)鰲(ao)坐五部(bu)分組成,通高6.87米。歷(li)經600余年,仍屹立原處,完好無損。原有碑(bei)(bei)亭,久毀,柱礎石(shi)尚在。洪武(wu)十一(yi)年,命江陰侯吳(wu)良督工(gong)新造皇堂,朱元(yuan)璋嫌原碑(bei)(bei)記皆儒臣(chen)粉飾之文(wen),恐不足為后世子孫戒,乃親撰(zhuan)碑(bei)(bei)文(wen),重立新碑(bei)(bei),全(quan)文(wen)1105字(zi),追(zhui)述其家庭出身,本人經歷(li),元(yuan)末農民起義(yi)和(he)他參加(jia)起義(yi)軍的情況(kuang),以及東(dong)渡(du)大江,統一(yi)全(quan)國的簡略過(guo)程(cheng)。
無字碑
無(wu)字(zi)碑(bei)因(yin)(yin)碑(bei)面無(wu)字(zi)而俗稱,位(wei)于(yu)皇(huang)陵神(shen)道南端東(dong)側,西(xi)距皇(huang)陵碑(bei)50米。無(wu)字(zi)碑(bei)的形制規格與皇(huang)陵碑(bei)相(xiang)同(tong),所(suo)(suo)不同(tong)的是皇(huang)陵碑(bei)的碑(bei)首與碑(bei)身以(yi)榫卯連結,而無(wu)字(zi)碑(bei)卻(que)系一整(zheng)塊石料雕成。原有碑(bei)亭,久圮。建國前碑(bei)已倒臥(wo)在地(di),碑(bei)身折斷(duan)為三截,碑(bei)座(zuo)(zuo)仍在原位(wei)。1983年(nian)(nian)3月,縣文物管理所(suo)(suo)將(jiang)碑(bei)座(zuo)(zuo)向(xiang)西(xi)移位(wei),同(tong)年(nian)(nian)4月配(pei)合省文物工作隊(dui),清理碑(bei)座(zuo)(zuo)基(ji)礎。第(di)一層(ceng)(ceng)為承托碑(bei)座(zuo)(zuo)的四(si)塊片石,第(di)二(er)層(ceng)(ceng)為石灰沙漿,第(di)三層(ceng)(ceng)為膠漿。根據清理情(qing)況分析,此碑(bei)傾倒原因(yin)(yin),系第(di)二(er)層(ceng)(ceng)基(ji)礎密度松散(san),缺少強(qiang)度所(suo)(suo)致。1985年(nian)(nian)春,碑(bei)座(zuo)(zuo)復原,同(tong)年(nian)(nian)6月,粘接重新(xin)樹立。
明(ming)皇(huang)(huang)(huang)陵(ling)石(shi)(shi)像生(sheng)(sheng)是(shi)已知明(ming)代(dai)最(zui)早、數量最(zui)多、刻(ke)(ke)工(gong)最(zui)精細的(de)皇(huang)(huang)(huang)家陵(ling)園,石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)具有(you)(you)很高的(de)石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)藝(yi)術(shu)價(jia)值。不僅數量居歷(li)代(dai)帝王陵(ling)墓之冠(guan),而(er)且雕刻(ke)(ke)技藝(yi)上也有(you)(you)獨到之處。均用(yong)整塊石(shi)(shi)料(liao)雕琢(zhuo),無(wu)論(lun)是(shi)人像,還(huan)是(shi)動物,均造型生(sheng)(sheng)動,刻(ke)(ke)琢(zhuo)精細,具有(you)(you)高超的(de)技藝(yi)和強烈的(de)藝(yi)術(shu)感(gan)染力。它們是(shi)宋元石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)藝(yi)術(shu)發展(zhan)的(de)最(zui)早產物,對明(ming)清的(de)石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)造型藝(yi)術(shu)發展(zhan)產生(sheng)(sheng)了深遠影(ying)響。皇(huang)(huang)(huang)陵(ling)碑(bei)(bei)額(e)篆有(you)(you)“大(da)明(ming)皇(huang)(huang)(huang)陵(ling)之碑(bei)(bei)”6個大(da)字,因碑(bei)(bei)文系朱(zhu)元璋親自撰(zhuan)寫,又名“御制皇(huang)(huang)(huang)陵(ling)碑(bei)(bei)”。朱(zhu)元璋為了讓(rang)子孫(sun)后(hou)代(dai)了解艱(jian)辛家世和開創(chuang)江山的(de)艱(jian)難,秉筆(bi)直書(shu),歷(li)述家世實情與戎(rong)馬(ma)生(sheng)(sheng)涯,一改(gai)歷(li)代(dai)帝陵(ling)碑(bei)(bei)刻(ke)(ke)粉飾(shi)夸功、諛墓不實的(de)惡習。碑(bei)(bei)文長達(da)1105字,是(shi)研究朱(zhu)元璋家史(shi)與元末明(ming)初歷(li)史(shi)的(de)珍貴(gui)史(shi)料(liao)。
自駕路(lu)(lu)線(xian)(xian)(xian):鳳(feng)陽縣(xian)城(cheng)南7公里,省道(dao)(dao)(dao)307線(xian)(xian)(xian):明光--亳(bo)州;省道(dao)(dao)(dao)310線(xian)(xian)(xian):鳳(feng)陽--淮南;省道(dao)(dao)(dao)101線(xian)(xian)(xian):鳳(feng)陽--蚌埠;省道(dao)(dao)(dao)209梅(mei)市段。縣(xian)道(dao)(dao)(dao)總大(da)路(lu)(lu):總鋪(pu)--大(da)溪河;縣(xian)道(dao)(dao)(dao)鳳(feng)殷路(lu)(lu):鳳(feng)陽--殷澗;縣(xian)道(dao)(dao)(dao)鳳(feng)周(zhou)路(lu)(lu):鳳(feng)陽--周(zhou)圩。
公交(jiao)路線(xian):鳳(feng)陽汽車(che)(che)站乘往大(da)廟鎮班車(che)(che)可到景區。