中(zhong)山(shan)是(shi)(shi)魚(yu)米(mi)之鄉(xiang),水(shui)稻(dao)種植面(mian)積大,田(tian)里(li)當然也(ye)少不了禾蟲(chong)(chong)。中(zhong)山(shan)水(shui)鄉(xiang)坦洲,不僅以咸(xian)水(shui)歌聞名,那里(li)的(de)(de)(de)風味小(xiao)(xiao)食禾蟲(chong)(chong)也(ye)是(shi)(shi)一大特產,各(ge)種烹制方(fang)法(fa)層出(chu)不窮(qiong),令每(mei)一位食客駐足(zu)留(liu)步。踏人農歷九月,大量的(de)(de)(de)禾蟲(chong)(chong)出(chu)現,引(yin)得各(ge)路食輯奔(ben)赴(fu)坦洲,特意品(pin)嘗(chang)那里(li)的(de)(de)(de)禾蟲(chong)(chong)特色菜肴。禾蟲(chong)(chong),很多(duo)人都知道(dao)是(shi)(shi)水(shui)稻(dao)田(tian)淤泥中(zhong)野生(sheng)的(de)(de)(de)一種軟(ruan)體小(xiao)(xiao)蟲(chong)(chong),分布于珠江口各(ge)地咸(xian)淡(dan)水(shui)交界處的(de)(de)(de)稻(dao)田(tian)、淤泥中(zhong),繁殖時才出(chu)泥面(mian)。禾蟲(chong)(chong)含豐富的(de)(de)(de)蛋(dan)白質、脂肪、鐵、磷(lin)和(he)各(ge)種維生(sheng)素(su),營(ying)養價值高(gao),其味鮮美甘(gan)香、性溫(wen),能補脾(pi)、暖胃(wei)、生(sheng)血(xue)、利小(xiao)(xiao)便、去腳氣,屬滋補食療上品(pin),城鄉(xiang)居民歷來喜愛(ai),視之為(wei)席上佳(jia)肴。
中(zhong)山人以(yi)及廣東(dong)(dong)人吃禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)的(de)(de)風氣(qi)由來已(yi)久。明末(mo)廣東(dong)(dong)大詩人屈翁山的(de)(de)《廣東(dong)(dong)新語》已(yi)經盛贊禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)的(de)(de)滋味,并稱(cheng)鄉(xiang)下有(you)禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)阜,為地主(zhu)惡霸爭(zheng)持侵奪(duo)的(de)(de)目標。“夏(xia)暑(shu)雨,禾(he)(he)中(zhong)蒸郁(yu)而(er)(er)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)蟲(chong),或(huo)稻(dao)(dao)根腐而(er)(er)生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)蟲(chong)。稻(dao)(dao)根色(se)黃(huang)(huang),禾(he)(he)蟲(chong)者稻(dao)(dao)根所(suo)化,故色(se)黃(huang)(huang),大者如著(筷子)許,長(chang)至(zhi)丈,節(jie)節(jie)有(you)口,生(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)青熟紅黃(huang)(huang)。霜降前,禾(he)(he)熟則(ze)蟲(chong)亦(yi)熟,以(yi)初一二及十(shi)五六,乘(cheng)大潮斷節(jie)而(er)(er)出(chu),浮游(you)田上(shang),網取之(zhi),得(de)醋則(ze)白漿自出(chu),以(yi)白米泔(gan)濾過,蒸為膏(gao),甘美(mei)益人,蓋(gai)得(de)稻(dao)(dao)之(zhi)精華者也(ye)。其(qi)腌(a)為脯作(zuo)西醬者,則(ze)貧者之(zhi)食(shi)也(ye)。”
禾(he)(he)(he)蟲(chong)在珠(zhu)江三角洲一向被視作盤中佳肴,受到眾(zhong)多食客的(de)青(qing)睞,但要(yao)說服外省的(de)老友吃(chi)禾(he)(he)(he)蟲(chong)還是有一點(dian)難度(du)的(de),況且(qie)本地也(ye)有些老友不太(tai)愛吃(chi)。禾(he)(he)(he)蟲(chong)可(ke)以煎、煮、蒸(zheng)、燉(dun)。其中以瓦缽焗禾(he)(he)(he)蟲(chong)最(zui)顯風味(wei)。而禾(he)(he)(he)蟲(chong)蒸(zheng)蛋、酥炸禾(he)(he)(he)蟲(chong)、禾(he)(he)(he)蟲(chong)湯等等也(ye)都滋味(wei)十足,令人回味(wei)無(wu)窮。
【藥名】禾蟲
【別名】沙蟲、沙蠶、海蝗蚓
【漢語拼音】he chong
【英文名(ming)】Standing grain worm
【拉丁植物動物礦(kuang)物名】Tylorrhychus heterochaetus(Quatrefages).
【歸經】脾;胃經
【功(gong)效(xiao)】補脾胃(wei);益氣血(xue);利(li)水消(xiao)腫
【考證】出自《綱目拾遺》:禾(he)蟲,閩(min)、廣、浙(zhe)沿海濱多有(you)之,形如(ru)蚯(qiu)蚓,閩(min)人以(yi)蒸(zheng)蛋(dan)食,或(huo)作膏食,餉(xiang)客為饈(xiu),云食之補脾健胃。《廣志》,夏暑雨,禾(he)中蒸(zheng)郁(yu)而(er)生(sheng)蟲,或(huo)稻根腐而(er)生(sheng)蟲。大者(zhe)如(ru)箸許,長至丈,節節有(you)口,生(sheng)青,熟紅黃,霜降(jiang)前禾(he)熟,則蟲亦熟。以(yi)初一、二及十五、六(liu)乘大潮斷節而(er)出,浮游(you)田上,網取之。得醋則白漿(jiang)自出,以(yi)白米泔濾過,蒸(zheng)為膏,甘(gan)美益(yi)人。
【科屬(shu)分類】沙蠶科
【主治】脾胃虛弱(ruo);泄(xie)瀉;貧血;水腫
【用法用量】內服:煎湯(tang),5-10條。
【出處】《中華本草》
禾蟲(chong)的(de)吃法有多種,有燉缽(bo)仔禾蟲(chong)、生炒禾蟲(chong)、煲(bao)禾蟲(chong)蓮(lian)藕眉豆湯等,而中山人(ren)的(de)燉缽(bo)仔禾蟲(chong),風味十(shi)足,最受食(shi)客喜(xi)愛。
缽(bo)(bo)仔禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)的(de)做法并不是很(hen)復(fu)雜。將禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)洗干(gan)(gan)(gan)凈(jing)后(hou)放在(zai)缽(bo)(bo)仔里剪碎讓禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)充分(fen)出(chu)漿(jiang),再(zai)(zai)加上(shang)(shang)適特搗碎的(de)蒜蓉、陳皮、粉絲、蛋白、欖(lan)角和油(you)(you)、鹽等調味(wei)拌勻,放缽(bo)(bo)于鍋(guo)中隔水(shui)燉(dun)熟,再(zai)(zai)將缽(bo)(bo)仔禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)移至慢(man)火炭爐或電(dian)爐上(shang)(shang)烘(hong)至干(gan)(gan)(gan)水(shui)有焦香(xiang)味(wei)即(ji)可上(shang)(shang)桌;也(ye)有人(ren)先把(ba)(ba)(ba)洗干(gan)(gan)(gan)凈(jing)的(de)禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)放在(zai)花(hua)生油(you)(you)里面,讓禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)喝(he)飽油(you)(you),然后(hou)打幾個雞(ji)蛋到缽(bo)(bo)中,這(zhe)時才將禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)剪碎,再(zai)(zai)把(ba)(ba)(ba)各種配科加在(zai)一起(qi)(qi)攪(jiao)拌,然后(hou)放鍋(guo)中燉(dun),最(zui)后(hou)把(ba)(ba)(ba)瓦(wa)(wa)缽(bo)(bo)架到風爐上(shang)(shang),用(yong)炭烘(hong)起(qi)(qi)瓦(wa)(wa)缽(bo)(bo),把(ba)(ba)(ba)禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)慢(man)慢(man)烘(hong)干(gan)(gan)(gan)水(shui)分(fen)。這(zhe)道(dao)缽(bo)(bo)仔禾(he)蟲(chong)(chong)吃起(qi)(qi)來外面一層有點脆,甚至還有一點焦的(de)香(xiang)味(wei),吃到里面是滑滑的(de),很(hen)鮮美,但一點都不油(you)(you)膩。