永(yong)(yong)河(he)(he)皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)即是湖(hu)(hu)北省紅(hong)(hong)(hong)安(an)(an)(an)縣永(yong)(yong)佳河(he)(he)鎮生(sheng)產(chan)的特色皮(pi)(pi)子(zi),永(yong)(yong)河(he)(he)皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)因其味美香甜,肉厚香嫩而譽滿(man)紅(hong)(hong)(hong)安(an)(an)(an)乃至(zhi)(zhi)湖(hu)(hu)北,成為中國第一(yi)將軍(jun)縣——湖(hu)(hu)北紅(hong)(hong)(hong)安(an)(an)(an)的一(yi)大(da)特產(chan),深受廣大(da)紅(hong)(hong)(hong)安(an)(an)(an)人民的喜愛。2014年9月17日,紅(hong)(hong)(hong)安(an)(an)(an)縣“紅(hong)(hong)(hong)安(an)(an)(an)大(da)布”“永(yong)(yong)河(he)(he)皮(pi)(pi)子(zi)”兩個產(chan)品(pin)(pin)分別(bie)通過了國家地(di)理標志保護產(chan)品(pin)(pin)技術(shu)審查。至(zhi)(zhi)此,紅(hong)(hong)(hong)安(an)(an)(an)被國家質量監(jian)督(du)檢(jian)驗(yan)檢(jian)疫總(zong)局批(pi)準的地(di)理標志產(chan)品(pin)(pin)總(zong)數達4個。
食品營養
1.永河皮(pi)子中含(han)有(you)豐富蛋白(bai)質(zhi),而(er)且(qie)豆腐蛋白(bai)屬完全蛋白(bai),不僅含(han)有(you)人體必需的8種(zhong)氨基酸,而(er)且(qie)其比例也(ye)接近人體需要,營養價(jia)值較高;
2. 永河(he)皮子中含有的卵磷脂可除(chu)掉附在血管壁上的膽固醇,防止血管硬化(hua),預防心(xin)血管疾病,保護(hu)心(xin)臟;
3. 永河(he)皮子中(zhong)含有(you)多種礦物質(zhi),補充鈣質(zhi),防(fang)止因缺(que)鈣引起的骨(gu)質(zhi)疏松,促進骨(gu)骼發育,對小兒、老人的骨(gu) 骼生(sheng)長極為(wei)有(you)利(li)。
生產制作
制作永河(he)皮子(zi)要經過泡豆、磨豆、篩漿、熬漿、點漿、收(shou)漿、壓榨等22道工序,只有不(bu)怕紛繁復雜和(he)勞(lao)心(xin)費力,才能做(zuo)出好的皮子(zi),從豆粒到豆漿,再到豆腐腦(nao)和(he)千張。新鮮(xian)皮子(zi)曬(shai)干后(hou)可長(chang)期存放,用水泡開(kai)即可食(shi)用,老百姓十分喜歡吃,待客過節常買皮子(zi)作為下酒佳肴。
永(yong)河(he)(he)的(de)(de)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)制作(zuo)簡單,主要(yao)環(huan)(huan)節有(you)四種(zhong):一是(shi)(shi)浸豆(dou),將(jiang)豆(dou)浸泡在(zai)水(shui)(shui)(shui)里,要(yao)將(jiang)豆(dou)浸得(de)圓飽飽的(de)(de),再進行淘洗。二是(shi)(shi)磨豆(dou),傳統(tong)的(de)(de)方法用石磨磨。金燦燦的(de)(de)黃豆(dou)從磨眼灌進去,白花(hua)花(hua)的(de)(de)豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)從磨里雨柱(zhu)般撒(sa)下來。如(ru)今,加工(gong)(gong)用電磨,既省力,又能保證(zheng)豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)的(de)(de)質量。三是(shi)(shi)點(dian)漿(jiang)(jiang),這是(shi)(shi)最關鍵(jian)的(de)(de)一環(huan)(huan),皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)、豆(dou)腐好(hao)壞在(zai)此(ci)一舉。豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)煮開后(hou)(hou),倒在(zai)缸(gang)里,再用熟石膏水(shui)(shui)(shui)點(dian)漿(jiang)(jiang)。一手(shou)掇石膏盆(pen),一手(shou)捏(nie)長把(ba)瓢,邊(bian)倒石膏水(shui)(shui)(shui),邊(bian)用瓢把(ba)在(zai)漿(jiang)(jiang)中(zhong)攪動。涓涓細流(liu)流(liu)入缸(gang)中(zhong),豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)如(ru)開水(shui)(shui)(shui)沸騰不(bu)止(zhi)。四澆(jiao)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi),澆(jiao)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)關鍵(jian)是(shi)(shi)一個“澆(jiao)”字(zi)。首先將(jiang)干(gan)巴(ba)巴(ba)的(de)(de)豆(dou)漿(jiang)(jiang)打在(zai)小桶里,然(ran)后(hou)(hou)用竹把(ba)將(jiang)其搗亂(luan),用碗(wan)舀到皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)廂里,一碗(wan)水(shui)(shui)(shui)一張(zhang)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi),舀多(duo)舀少,是(shi)(shi)決定皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)薄厚(hou)干(gan)濕的(de)(de)關鍵(jian),因而要(yao)把(ba)握火候。永(yong)佳河(he)(he)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)加工(gong)(gong)其妙(miao)在(zai)水(shui)(shui)(shui)中(zhong)。大別山(shan)的(de)(de)山(shan)泉,七拐八彎,源源不(bu)斷;流(liu)到永(yong)佳河(he)(he)。河(he)(he)水(shui)(shui)(shui)衛生清淳,水(shui)(shui)(shui)質適宜(yi)于(yu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)加工(gong)(gong)。是(shi)(shi)年,有(you)位武漢人來永(yong)佳河(he)(he)做(zuo)客,吃(chi)中(zhong)了皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi),問其加工(gong)(gong)奧(ao)妙(miao),皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)師傅曰:“其妙(miao)在(zai)水(shui)(shui)(shui)中(zhong)”。之后(hou)(hou),客人用車裝(zhuang)幾桶水(shui)(shui)(shui)到武漢加工(gong)(gong)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi),皮(pi)(pi)(pi)子(zi)(zi)果(guo)然(ran)不(bu)同凡響,別出一味。
食用指南
永河的(de)皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)有多(duo)種吃(chi)法(fa):生(sheng)吃(chi),鄉(xiang)下(xia)豆(dou)腐皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)師(shi)傅最喜(xi)歡(huan)這種吃(chi)法(fa)。皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)剛剛從皮(pi)布上(shang)(shang)撕下(xia)來(lai),香(xiang)氣撲鼻,將其包點紅糖、蔥蒜之類,吃(chi)起來(lai)饒有風味(wei)(wei)。炒吃(chi),這是常見一種吃(chi)法(fa)。一般配上(shang)(shang)小白(bai)菜(cai)、菠菜(cai)等(deng),盛在盤里(li),“一清二(er)白(bai)”。煨吃(chi),將皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)切(qie)成三角形,配上(shang)(shang)豬排,再(zai)用沙(sha)罐煨烤(kao)。這種菜(cai)當(dang)地(di)叫“皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)煲”,吃(chi)時皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)油(you)滴(di)滴(di)光(guang)亮(liang)亮(liang),更是鮮嫩可口。“臭(chou)”吃(chi)。用適當(dang)的(de)溫度(du),讓皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)發酵,過(guo)上(shang)(shang)三五天(tian),揭(jie)開一看,皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)長出(chu)絨(rong)絨(rong)的(de)白(bai)毛,發出(chu)誘(you)人香(xiang)味(wei)(wei)。這種皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)將其炒吃(chi),味(wei)(wei)道(dao)可口,勝(sheng)于魚肉。酥吃(chi),將皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)切(qie)成菱形,加(jia)鹽曬干,便成“皮(pi)子(zi)(zi)果”。吃(chi)時用油(you)酥,脆口回味(wei)(wei),是早(zao)餐的(de)好菜(cai)肴。
飲食文化
永(yong)(yong)(yong)河皮(pi)子(zi)俗(su)(su)稱永(yong)(yong)(yong)河千張,在北方稱為豆腐皮(pi),南(nan)方又叫百葉,屬豆制品。永(yong)(yong)(yong)河皮(pi)子(zi)歷(li)史悠(you)久(jiu),相傳(chuan)豆腐乃(nai)漢代淮(huai)南(nan)王劉(liu)安(an)所(suo)創,至今已有兩(liang)千多年(nian)。[2]在紅安(an)縣一些地方,一直(zhi)流傳(chuan)著過年(nian)“做皮(pi)子(zi)”的(de)習俗(su)(su),“永(yong)(yong)(yong)河皮(pi)子(zi)”最具獨特(te)風味。春節臨(lin)近,永(yong)(yong)(yong)佳河鎮的(de)皮(pi)子(zi)作坊又開始熱鬧起來(lai),肉厚、香嫩的(de)“永(yong)(yong)(yong)河皮(pi)子(zi)”成為人們團年(nian)飯(fan)里的(de)一道(dao)特(te)色佳肴。