芒果视频

太原龍須拉面介紹

在山西，人們(men)壽誕生辰，聚(ju)友團(tuan)圓時，常(chang)常(chang)要(yao)吃這種面，以示長壽和喜(xi)慶(qing)。龍須面配料精細，制作(zuo)講(jiang)究(jiu)，其制作(zuo)方法過去(qu)曾(ceng)被(bei)(bei)認為(wei)是絕招(zhao)，秘而(er)不(bu)傳。龍須拉面的(de)面團(tuan)被(bei)(bei)和勻后，抻開(kai)(kai)，卷(juan)起(qi)，再(zai)抻開(kai)(kai)，再(zai)卷(juan)起(qi)，如(ru)此數扣(kou)之(zhi)后，師傅們(men)將拉好的(de)面放(fang)在撒滿(man)面粉的(de)幾案上抖開(kai)(kai)，而(er)后兩手像搭毛線般(ban)地將面抻開(kai)(kai)并(bing)抖動著。整個景象就如(ru)瀑布(bu)嘩嘩瀉下一般(ban)，蔚為(wei)壯觀。片刻之(zhi)后走上前去(qu)，看(kan)到拉好的(de)面已如(ru)絲(si)般(ban)纖(xian)細，這已是標準的(de)龍須面了(le)。

龍須拉面做法

先用面水(shui)(shui)5∶3的(de)比例和好(hao)面，然后在(zai)(zai)上面抹點香(xiang)油醒(xing)著(zhu)，將(jiang)醒(xing)好(hao)的(de)面放在(zai)(zai)案(an)板上，揉(rou)勻或(huo)(huo)搓(cuo)成長(chang)(chang)條(tiao)，雙手提(ti)兩端稍晃(huang)，再搓(cuo)成長(chang)(chang)條(tiao)狀，搟成片(pian)形，略醒(xing)后用刀橫切成小手指粗的(de)長(chang)(chang)條(tiao)，撒勻面粉或(huo)(huo)抹勻香(xiang)油，逐根(gen)(gen)或(huo)(huo)幾根(gen)(gen)并拉，拉成細條(tiao)投入沸(fei)水(shui)(shui)鍋內，煮(zhu)熟(shu)配上鹵(lu)即(ji)成。

龍須拉面的起源故事

龍(long)須拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)源頭(tou)是(shi)始于唐(tang)朝的(de)(de)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。《新唐(tang)書(shu)·王(wang)皇(huang)后(hou)傳(chuan)(chuan)》記有“陛下獨不念阿忠脫紫半(ban)臂易斗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，為(wei)(wei)生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯餅(bing)耶”。這種(zhong)生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯餅(bing)，已可(ke)(ke)“舉箸食(shi)”（劉禹錫《贈進士張盥》），是(shi)和(he)軟面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團，用(yong)刀切(qie)條(tiao)，將(jiang)條(tiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)細(xi)、拉(la)(la)(la)(la)長(chang)后(hou)落鍋煮熟(shu)食(shi)用(yong)，民間(jian)至(zhi)今保留(liu)此法，稱之為(wei)(wei)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。王(wang)皇(huang)后(hou)為(wei)(wei)李隆基做生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)湯餅(bing)的(de)(de)故(gu)事，發(fa)生(sheng)(sheng)在李隆基作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)潞州別駕的(de)(de)時(shi)候，可(ke)(ke)見(jian)(jian)唐(tang)代(dai)至(zhi)少太原、長(chang)治等(deng)山(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)地區已將(jiang)小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)(wei)生(sheng)(sheng)日(ri)長(chang)壽面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)而制(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)和(he)食(shi)用(yong)了(le)。后(hou)來，這一(yi)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)藝隨著(zhu)太原玄中寺的(de)(de)凈土宗東傳(chuan)(chuan)日(ri)本(ben)，形(xing)(xing)成日(ri)本(ben)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術的(de)(de)基礎。到了(le)宋代(dai)，趙光義鏟平晉陽(yang)西(xi)(xi)北系舟山(shan)(shan)(shan)，意(yi)欲(yu)拔掉“龍(long)角(jiao)”。第(di)二(er)年太原百姓將(jiang)二(er)月(yue)初(chu)的(de)(de)中和(he)節改為(wei)(wei)“龍(long)頭(tou)節”，并固定在二(er)月(yue)初(chu)二(er)以(yi)(yi)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)紀(ji)念。此日(ri)，百姓多吃拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，意(yi)思是(shi)你拔我“龍(long)角(jiao)”，我挑你“龍(long)筋(jin)”、吃你“龍(long)須”，以(yi)(yi)示憤(fen)恨(hen)。自此，拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)又(you)被稱為(wei)(wei)龍(long)須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，黃庭(ting)堅曾(ceng)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)詩“湯餅(bing)一(yi)杯(bei)銀絲(si)(si)亂，牽絲(si)(si)如縷玉簪(zan)橫”。元代(dai)時(shi)，馬可(ke)(ke)波羅三訪太原，將(jiang)這種(zhong)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)技(ji)術帶(dai)回意(yi)大(da)(da)利，形(xing)(xing)成影響(xiang)西(xi)(xi)方(fang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)技(ji)術和(he)飲食(shi)文化的(de)(de)意(yi)大(da)(da)利通(tong)心粉(fen)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)食(shi)。小(xiao)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)何時(shi)發(fa)展成大(da)(da)把拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，暫不可(ke)(ke)考，但明人宋詡(xu)《宋氏養生(sheng)(sheng)部》記載：“用(yong)少鹽入(ru)水和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)，一(yi)斤為(wei)(wei)率(lv)。既勻，沃香(xiang)油少許……漸以(yi)(yi)兩手纏絡于直指、將(jiang)指、無名指之間(jian)，為(wei)(wei)細(xi)條(tiao)，先作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)沸湯，隨拉(la)(la)(la)(la)隨煮。”可(ke)(ke)見(jian)(jian)山(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)明代(dai)時(shi)已有大(da)(da)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)技(ji)術。清道光年間(jian)，山(shan)(shan)(shan)西(xi)(xi)稷山(shan)(shan)(shan)縣(xian)馬金定兄弟，千里迢(tiao)迢(tiao)去陜(shan)西(xi)(xi)岐山(shan)(shan)(shan)做掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)生(sheng)(sheng)意(yi)，字號(hao)“順天成”，直到今天，岐山(shan)(shan)(shan)掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還(huan)沿用(yong)這個老(lao)字號(hao)。這種(zhong)掛面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)起初(chu)就是(shi)將(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)拉(la)(la)(la)(la)好后(hou)，掛在線上(shang)曬干銷售(shou)，是(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)作(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)為(wei)(wei)半(ban)成品(pin)銷售(shou)的(de)(de)典范。

清(qing)(qing)(qing)朝(chao)末(mo)(mo)年(nian)，拉面(mian)(mian)已成為山、陜面(mian)(mian)食(shi)(shi)制作(zuo)的(de)成熟技術(shu)。清(qing)(qing)(qing)末(mo)(mo)薛寶辰著的(de)《素食(shi)(shi)說(shuo)(shuo)略》中(zhong)說(shuo)(shuo)，在(zai)山、陜流行一(yi)種(zhong)“楨(zhen)條(tiao)(tiao)面(mian)(mian)”：“以(yi)(yi)(yi)水(shui)和(he)面(mian)(mian)，入鹽(yan)、清(qing)(qing)(qing)油揉勻(yun)，覆以(yi)(yi)(yi)濕布，俟其軟(ruan)和(he)，扯開細煮之(zhi)，名為楨(zhen)條(tiao)(tiao)面(mian)(mian)。做法以(yi)(yi)(yi)山西太原、平定州、陜西朝(chao)邑、同州為最(zui)。”這種(zhong)楨(zhen)條(tiao)(tiao)面(mian)(mian)，即(ji)山西拉面(mian)(mian)，也稱龍須面(mian)(mian)，在(zai)清(qing)(qing)(qing)代還(huan)進(jin)入宮廷(ting)。《清(qing)(qing)(qing)稗類鈔》、《中(zhong)國歷(li)代御膳大觀(guan)》中(zhong)記，內廷(ting)大宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)之(zhi)一(yi)、清(qing)(qing)(qing)朝(chao)帝(di)王的(de)壽誕(dan)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)——萬壽宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)，以(yi)(yi)(yi)及滿漢(han)全(quan)席(xi)第一(yi)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)的(de)蒙(meng)古(gu)親藩宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)，都以(yi)(yi)(yi)龍須面(mian)(mian)作(zuo)為御宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)的(de)重要膳食(shi)(shi)。

“千招易學，一(yi)竅難得(de)”。拉面(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作技術(shu)解放(fang)前曾(ceng)被(bei)認(ren)為(wei)是“絕招”，秘而(er)不(bu)傳(chuan)。解放(fang)后，逐漸在(zai)社會(hui)(hui)(hui)上得(de)以公開，成為(wei)山(shan)西(xi)面(mian)(mian)案的(de)(de)基本(ben)(ben)功(gong)，受到山(shan)西(xi)飲食(shi)界的(de)(de)重視(shi)(shi)，并不(bu)斷在(zai)實(shi)踐探索中(zhong)細分為(wei)小拉面(mian)(mian)（一(yi)根面(mian)(mian)）、大拉面(mian)(mian)（6至8扣(kou)）、龍(long)須(xu)拉面(mian)(mian)（10扣(kou)以上），空心拉面(mian)(mian)等(deng)。現在(zai)，龍(long)須(xu)拉面(mian)(mian)除食(shi)用之外，還(huan)作為(wei)一(yi)種表(biao)演(yan)藝(yi)術(shu)，拉至14扣(kou)時(shi)，共計(ji)28924根，相連長達25公里。全(quan)晉會(hui)(hui)(hui)館的(de)(de)蒙眼拉面(mian)(mian)，還(huan)曾(ceng)獲得(de)全(quan)國(guo)廚藝(yi)絕技超群獎，多(duo)次應邀赴日本(ben)(ben)、新(xin)加(jia)坡、臺灣(wan)等(deng)國(guo)家(jia)和地區(qu)表(biao)演(yan)。2008年初，全(quan)晉會(hui)(hui)(hui)館作為(wei)傳(chuan)承單位的(de)(de)龍(long)須(xu)拉面(mian)(mian)，被(bei)列入第二批國(guo)家(jia)級(ji)非物(wu)質(zhi)文化遺產(chan)保護名錄，受到了國(guo)家(jia)的(de)(de)高度重視(shi)(shi)。龍(long)須(xu)拉面(mian)(mian)制(zhi)作，這一(yi)山(shan)西(xi)面(mian)(mian)食(shi)中(zhong)技術(shu)性強的(de)(de)特色手工技藝(yi)和表(biao)演(yan)藝(yi)術(shu)，將在(zai)新(xin)時(shi)代(dai)煥(huan)發出傳(chuan)承文脈、走向(xiang)和諧(xie)、造(zao)福社會(hui)(hui)(hui)的(de)(de)無比絢麗奪目的(de)(de)光彩(cai)。