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簡介

玄妙觀是(shi)位于(yu)中(zhong)國(guo)東(dong)南(nan)部著名(ming)旅游城市蘇州的(de)著名(ming)道觀，創建(jian)于(yu)公元276年，最初名(ming)叫“真慶(qing)道院”，后來曾(ceng)改稱為“開元宮”、“天慶(qing)觀”。公元1295年元朝(chao)皇帝下令改為玄妙觀。玄妙觀至今已有1700多年的(de)歷史，所(suo)以被稱為“江南(nan)第一古觀”。

玄妙觀坐落(luo)在(zai)(zai)蘇州古城(cheng)中心，其(qi)主殿(dian)三(san)清殿(dian)建(jian)(jian)(jian)成(cheng)于南宋年(nian)間，是蘇州僅存的一座南宋木構殿(dian)宇式建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)，歷史(shi)悠久、規模宏偉，在(zai)(zai)中國(guo)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)史(shi)上具有重要的歷史(shi)價值，1982年(nian)被列為全國(guo)重點(dian)文(wen)物保(bao)護單位。

現玄妙觀(guan)進行了修復整治，有(you)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)堂七座，中(zhong)(zhong)路(lu)有(you)正山(shan)門(men)、三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，東(dong)路(lu)有(you)文(wen)(wen)昌殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、斗姆(mu)閣、壽星殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，西路(lu)有(you)雷(lei)尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。觀(guan)內(nei)有(you)很多珍貴的(de)文(wen)(wen)物遺跡(ji)，道教文(wen)(wen)化內(nei)涵深厚,是中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)少有(you)的(de)完整道觀(guan)建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun)，其中(zhong)(zhong)三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)現仍保留著宋代建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)的(de)風貌與特點(dian)。

玄(xuan)妙觀歷史上曾是蘇州宗教(jiao)文(wen)化(hua)中心(xin)，現是蘇州地區道(dao)教(jiao)活動(dong)的(de)主(zhu)要(yao)場所。由于優越的(de)地理位(wei)置，眾多(duo)的(de)文(wen)物古跡以(yi)及豐富的(de)道(dao)教(jiao)文(wen)化(hua)內(nei)涵(han)，玄(xuan)妙觀已(yi)成為蘇州市著名(ming)的(de)旅游景點之一。

歷史沿革

蘇州香火最盛的(de)地方(fang)并非(fei)佛教寺廟，而是道教的(de)玄妙觀。

玄妙觀始建于西晉，已有1700余年的(de)(de)歷史(shi)。觀內建于南宋的(de)(de)三清(qing)殿(dian)是江南最大的(de)(de)木(mu)構古建筑(zhu)。殿(dian)內供奉的(de)(de)高達17米的(de)(de)三清(qing)（上(shang)清(qing)、玉清(qing)、太清(qing)）塑(su)像，堪稱宋代雕塑(su)的(de)(de)上(shang)佳之作。玄妙觀中現存有唐(tang)吳道子畫老(lao)君(jun)像、玄宗(zong)贊、顏真卿書(shu)法等碑刻，彌足珍貴．

除三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和(he)正(zheng)山門(men)外，玄妙觀還有歷(li)代建(jian)成的副殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和(he)二十四座(zuo)配(pei)(pei)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，從東(dong)腳門(men)依(yi)次(ci)為：神州(zhou)(zhou)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan))、太(tai)陽宮(清(qing))、天(tian)醫藥王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song))、真(zhen)官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan))、天(tian)后(hou)(hou)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing))、文(wen)昌殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing))、祖(zu)師(shi)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan))、斗姆閣(清(qing) )、火(huo)神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing))、三(san)茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song))、機房(fang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(明(ming))、關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan))、東(dong)岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song))、痘司(si)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song))等(deng)十四處，西腳門(men)配(pei)(pei)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)依(yi)次(ci)為：雷尊(zun)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(元(yuan))、壽(shou)星(xing)(xing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song))、水府(fu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing))等(deng)七處。三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)后(hou)(hou)為彌羅寶閣，再后(hou)(hou)面(mian)是(shi)蓑衣真(zhen)人殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(宋(song))、肝胃(wei)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(清(qing))、薩祖(zu)方丈殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。各殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)所供神像大(da)都出自神話傳說(shuo)，如太(tai)陽神、雷神、火(huo)神、關帝、文(wen)曲星(xing)(xing)、灶(zao)神、土地(di)、八仙、壽(shou)星(xing)(xing)、觀音等(deng)，體現了蘇州(zhou)(zhou)地(di)方文(wen)化特色和(he)民間(jian)信(xin)仰的色彩，曾(ceng)是(shi)城鄉(xiang)老百(bai)姓精神寄托和(he)休閑娛樂(le)的去(qu)所。從康熙十三(san)年(公元(yuan)674年)玄妙觀建(jian)筑(zhu)群圖上可以看出東(dong)至洙泗巷(xiang)，西臨大(da)成坊(fang)，北至舊學前河，南面(mian)有黃色照墻橫亙(gen)正(zheng)山門(men)兩側(ce)，整(zheng)個建(jian)筑(zhu)群十分壯(zhuang)觀。彈丸之地(di)集中(zhong)了宋(song)元(yuan)明(ming)清(qing)歷(li)代殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇(yu)，真(zhen)可謂是(shi)一座(zuo)古典建(jian)筑(zhu)的博物館(guan)。

據(ju)道(dao)光《元妙(miao)觀(guan)志》圖(tu)載，清代(dai)玄妙(miao)觀(guan)盛時占地5.5萬平方米(mi)，共有30多座殿(dian)(dian)(dian)閣(ge)。中軸(zhou)線上(shang)自(zi)南(nan)而北依次為(wei)正山(shan)門、三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、彌羅(luo)寶閣(ge)，其他殿(dian)(dian)(dian)閣(ge)分(fen)布在(zai)25處自(zi)成院(yuan)落(luo)的“子院(yuan)”內，如眾星拱(gong)月般從(cong)東、西、北三面(mian)圍繞著中軸(zhou)線上(shang)的主(zhu)要殿(dian)(dian)(dian)閣(ge)，形成一片巍峨壯麗的建筑群。但自(zi)咸豐(feng)、同治之際遭(zao)受戰火后(hou)，即漸趨衰落(luo)，未能恢復舊觀(guan)，宏偉的彌羅(luo)寶閣(ge)也于(yu)民(min)國元年(nian)(1912)8月28日(ri)失火焚毀(hui)。1956年(nian)，整(zheng)修(xiu)三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、正山(shan)門及東、西諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)門墻，清理廣庭。同年(nian)，玄妙(miao)觀(guan)三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)被列(lie)為(wei)省文(wen)物(wu)保(bao)護單位。1966年(nian)后(hou)遭(zao)受損壞，1981年(nian)再修(xiu)三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)及正山(shan)門。1982年(nian)，玄妙(miao)觀(guan)三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)被列(lie)為(wei)全(quan)國重點文(wen)物(wu)保(bao)護單位。

蘇州市(shi)政府又連(lian)續(xu)撥巨款重修玄妙觀正山(shan)門和(he)三清(qing)殿(dian)，殿(dian)內(nei)神(shen)像(xiang)重塑金(jin)身，已(yi)于(yu)1999年元月開光慶典。

玄妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)多(duo)數(shu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇各有(you)山(shan)門、照墻(qiang)，觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)內(nei)(nei)廣場(chang)商販與百(bai)戲雜陳。觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)內(nei)(nei)方丈殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)為(wei)穹窿山(shan)上真觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)下(xia)院，直至(zhi)民(min)國初(chu)，該殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)振法(fa)堂內(nei)(nei)高懸戒(jie)規(gui)(gui)，內(nei)(nei)容主(zhu)要有(you)不(bu)準娶家室(shi)、不(bu)準目無師長等。違反戒(jie)規(gui)(gui)者，輕則重責、重則開除(俗稱“貼革條”)。方丈為(wei)一(yi)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)之主(zhu)。民(min)國元(yuan)(yuan)年(nian)(nian)8月28日(ri)，大(da)(da)廈三(san)(san)(san)層、飛甍(meng)隆棟的(de)彌羅(luo)寶閣(ge)失火(huo)(huo)焚毀，內(nei)(nei)僅金身(shen)神像(xiang)(xiang)就有(you)380余(yu)(yu)尊(zun)(zun)(zun)，閶門外十房(fang)(fang)莊淘沙戶曾擬出(chu)資1萬(wan)元(yuan)(yuan)承(cheng)包清除火(huo)(huo)場(chang)垃(la)圾。方丈倪仰(yang)云因失火(huo)(huo)被提出(chu)公訴并(bing)辭(ci)職，自此方丈威信大(da)(da)降，戒(jie)規(gui)(gui)松弛(chi)。方丈管2房(fang)(fang)、6殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。至(zhi)北伐時，方丈殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)還有(you)五六處山(shan)房(fang)(fang)，近(jin)百(bai)間屋(wu)。各房(fang)(fang)輪流執管殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)事，有(you)帳(zhang)房(fang)(fang)、文書及(ji)香工10余(yu)(yu)人(ren)，廚師2人(ren)。其余(yu)(yu)12房(fang)(fang)分(fen)掌(zhang)(zhang)一(yi)至(zhi)二、三(san)(san)(san)座殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，實各為(wei)一(yi)獨(du)立道院。22年(nian)(nian)太陽(yang)宮住持許鶴(he)梅(mei)曾去(qu)(qu)上海合伙(huo)開設(she)玄妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)分(fen)院，一(yi)年(nian)(nian)后因生意不(bu)好而收歇。20年(nian)(nian)代至(zhi)抗(kang)日(ri)戰爭中(zhong)(zhong)，祖師、灶君(jun)、八仙(xian)、壽(shou)星、水府、關帝諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)相(xiang)繼圮廢、改(gai)建或被日(ri)機轟炸震坍。三(san)(san)(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)擺滿(man)字(zi)畫(hua)攤，屋(wu)面(mian)被敵偽(wei)人(ren)員捉鴿(ge)子踐踏(ta)得嚴重漏雨。機房(fang)(fang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)曾開設(she)賭(du)場(chang)，長期出(chu)租和(he)被典賣的(de)有(you)神州殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)和(he)痘(dou)司殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。民(min)國6、32、33和(he)35年(nian)(nian)曾先后修(xiu)葺(qi)東(dong)岳(yue)(yue)(yue)、真官、雷尊(zun)(zun)(zun)和(he)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)音殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，但其余(yu)(yu)諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)日(ri)趨破敗。近(jin)解放時正山(shan)門淪為(wei)銀元(yuan)(yuan)市(shi)場(chang)。至(zhi)1949年(nian)(nian)存正山(shan)門及(ji)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)17座(即三(san)(san)(san)清、方丈、真人(ren)、肝胃、藥(yao)王、東(dong)岳(yue)(yue)(yue)、火(huo)(huo)神、三(san)(san)(san)茅、天后、真官、文昌(chang)、機房(fang)(fang)、三(san)(san)(san)官、雷尊(zun)(zun)(zun)、觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)音諸殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)及(ji)斗姆閣(ge)、太陽(yang)宮)。1952年(nian)(nian)有(you)道士(shi)33人(ren)，家屬(shu)83人(ren)，香工6人(ren)；有(you)屋(wu)523.5間，內(nei)(nei)自用200間，余(yu)(yu)多(duo)出(chu)租。1956年(nian)(nian)統計，占地(di)51.72畝，神像(xiang)(xiang)519尊(zun)(zun)(zun)，同年(nian)(nian)將(jiang)廣場(chang)周(zhou)圍(wei)600余(yu)(yu)戶店攤居民(min)遷出(chu)，斗姆閣(ge)改(gai)建為(wei)書畫(hua)店。1957年(nian)(nian)全觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)收入(ru)(ru)：房(fang)(fang)地(di)租454元(yuan)(yuan)，香火(huo)(huo)94元(yuan)(yuan)，法(fa)事29元(yuan)(yuan)，其他343元(yuan)(yuan)。1958年(nian)(nian)11月道教學習會(hui)直接掌(zhang)(zhang)管三(san)(san)(san)清、星宿(原屬(shu)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)音殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)，1956年(nian)(nian)將(jiang)在(zai)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)花甲星宿塑(su)像(xiang)(xiang)遷入(ru)(ru)，故名)兩殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)及(ji)雷尊(zun)(zun)(zun)、火(huo)(huo)神的(de)大(da)(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)部分(fen)，余(yu)(yu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)除留少量道士(shi)自住外，都交(jiao)給房(fang)(fang)管局管理，13道房(fang)(fang)至(zhi)此消失。1959年(nian)(nian)東(dong)岳(yue)(yue)(yue)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)焚毀。該殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)的(de)五岳(yue)(yue)(yue)樓(lou)，構建工巧，四(si)面(mian)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇，中(zhong)(zhong)峙一(yi)樓(lou)，“大(da)(da)躍進”中(zhong)(zhong)全殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)拆去(qu)(qu)。1964年(nian)(nian)市(shi)政府又撥款(kuan)整(zheng)修(xiu)，三(san)(san)(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)與正山(shan)門油漆一(yi)新，廣場(chang)中(zhong)(zhong)遍植綠(lv)樹草(cao)茵。“文化大(da)(da)革命”起，除三(san)(san)(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)神像(xiang)(xiang)幸獲(huo)保(bao)存(“玉(yu)清”神像(xiang)(xiang)的(de)頭部被砍(kan))外，其余(yu)(yu)神像(xiang)(xiang)、道經、科書被焚燒(shao)數(shu)晝夜，銅像(xiang)(xiang)8尊(zun)(zun)(zun)亦被毀，三(san)(san)(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)一(yi)度改(gai)為(wei)收租院泥(ni)塑(su)展覽(lan)會(hui)，兩廊各配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)在(zai) 60～70年(nian)(nian)代陸續改(gai)作商店、倉庫、菜場(chang)。

其間失去(qu)的(de)(de)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)宇分別(bie)為(wei)(wei)(wei)彌羅寶(bao)閣(ge)，1912年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)失火(huo)焚毀(hui)，原地改建中山堂；灶君殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1917年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)出(chu)借給同仁救火(huo)會，1930年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)被(bei)(bei)會擅(shan)自(zi)拆(chai)除改建，后(hou)為(wei)(wei)(wei)勞(lao)保(bao)用品(pin)商(shang)店；太陽宮，1914年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)吳縣(xian)黃天源糕團店門(men)(men)市部(bu)；東(dong)岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1922年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)出(chu)租給昆劇業余劇團，1959年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)東(dong)岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)失火(huo)燒毀(hui)，1961年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)該殿(dian)(dian)(dian)山門(men)(men)及(ji)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)址由影劇公司(si)(si)使(shi)(shi)用；斗姆(mu)閣(ge)，解放前為(wei)(wei)(wei)攤販公會使(shi)(shi)用，抗戰勝利后(hou)被(bei)(bei)典(dian)賣給居民，現(xian)(xian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)民居；祖(zu)師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1937年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)蘇州(zhou)淪陷時毀(hui)，現(xian)(xian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)輕工(gong)門(men)(men)市部(bu)；八(ba)仙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)坍(tan)毀(hui)，現(xian)(xian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)菜場(chang)；三官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)借給春苑茶(cha)館，現(xian)(xian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)茶(cha)場(chang)；水府殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1931年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)造國貨公司(si)(si)時，將北局(ju)觀前菜場(chang)遷移至(zhi)此，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)被(bei)(bei)拆(chai)掉(diao)；關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，1937年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)日機轟(hong)炸被(bei)(bei)震(zhen)坍(tan)，現(xian)(xian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)花木盆景公司(si)(si)；痘司(si)(si)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，30年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)代(dai)被(bei)(bei)典(dian)押后(hou)成(cheng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)民居。今仍屬道(dao)教(jiao)使(shi)(shi)用的(de)(de)除正山門(men)(men)、三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)外，尚有火(huo)神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、星宿(su)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)、雷尊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，其余的(de)(de)則后(hou)來又被(bei)(bei)有關單(dan)位占用或拆(chai)除。

玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)內(nei)文化積(ji)淀(dian)深(shen)厚，民(min)間傳說(shuo)動人，舊有(you)十(shi)八景(jing)之說(shuo)，分(fen)別為(wei)元趙孟頫(fu)所書玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)重修山門碑、麒麟照墻、朝(chao)北(bei)玄(xuan)帝銅殿、六角亭(ting)、釘釘石欄桿、一(yi)步三條橋、無字(zi)碑、海(hai)星壇(tan)、一(yi)人弄、楊芝畫、運木(mu)古井、妙(miao)一(yi)統元匾額、靠天(tian)吃飯(fan)圖碑，如今十(shi)八景(jing)中還保存九處。玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀(guan)文物中著名(ming)的還有(you)歷代碑刻(ke)，有(you)老子像碑、永(yong)禁機匠叫歇碑等等計有(you)八十(shi)一(yi)塊。除部分(fen)收藏在文廟外(wai)，還余下不(bu)少成為(wei)碑廊，現藏在輕工門市部夾弄內(nei)，歷劫不(bu)滅，彌足珍貴(gui)。

玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)值(zhi)得一提的還(huan)有(you)(you)正(zheng)(zheng)山門八(ba)字照(zhao)墻，當年(nian)(nian)為此還(huan)掀起(qi)過一場軒(xuan)然大(da)波。照(zhao)墻前(qian)原有(you)(you)一排(pai)平屋，有(you)(you)七、八(ba)家(jia)商(shang)(shang)鋪，1930年(nian)(nian)觀(guan)(guan)前(qian)街拓寬，影響這些商(shang)(shang)鋪，德記(ji)地產公司出(chu)面向(xiang)玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)方(fang)丈顏(yan)品(pin)笙協商(shang)(shang)拆(chai)除照(zhao)墻，租(zu)用兩(liang)側(ce)地基，搭屋經商(shang)(shang)，條(tiao)件(jian)是訂約十(shi)五年(nian)(nian)，付給(gei)押(ya)金一萬元(yuan)。此舉一出(chu)，引起(qi)地方(fang)人士反(fan)對，形成“保古(gu)派”與(yu)“保商(shang)(shang)派”之(zhi)爭(zheng)，后經江蘇(su)省建(jian)設廳批準，正(zheng)(zheng)山門兩(liang)端建(jian)起(qi)了與(yu)玄(xuan)(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)極不協調的三層樓房，道觀(guan)(guan)古(gu)樸肅穆的風(feng)貌從此不復再現。

玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)三(san)清殿(dian)之(zhi)后(hou)，原(yuan)有一(yi)(yi)座始建于明(ming)正統三(san)年(1438)的彌(mi)羅寶(bao)閣。閣高(gao)3層，闊9間，飛(fei)檐翹角，高(gao)聳云天，十分壯(zhuang)觀(guan)(guan)。所供(gong)神像(xiang)(xiang)，上層是(shi)萬(wan)皇帝主，左右配祀28星(xing)宿；底層是(shi)萬(wan)地帝主，左右配祀60花甲星(xing)宿。露(lu)臺石(shi)刻(ke)尤(you)稱珍貴，轉角處嵌(qian)有畫像(xiang)(xiang)石(shi)，一(yi)(yi)刻(ke)□爵祿來同像(xiang)(xiang)，一(yi)(yi)刻(ke)掛(gua)印封侯像(xiang)(xiang)，另一(yi)(yi)面(mian)刻(ke)有八蠻進寶(bao)圖(tu)。露(lu)臺扶(fu)欄亦(yi)有精美石(shi)雕，古(gu)氣(qi)磅(bang)礴(bo)，與山(shan)東武梁祠、郭巨墓漢畫石(shi)刻(ke)，神態逼肖，當為晉寧道(dao)院(yuan)或唐開元宮之(zhi)舊物(wu)。如此(ci)一(yi)(yi)座堪稱蘇州樓(lou)閣之(zhi)最(zui)的古(gu)建筑，卻不幸毀于民國元年(1912)8月28日(ri)晚的一(yi)(yi)場至今原(yuan)因(yin)不明(ming)的大火之(zhi)中。

葉(xie)圣(sheng)陶(tao)在(zai)失火(huo)當(dang)日日記(ji)中(zhong)記(ji)云(yun)：“入(ru)夜(ye)，紅光燭天，人(ren)聲(sheng)喧沓，開門而望之(zhi)，在(zai)余(yu)家(jia)西(xi)北面，繼而鑼聲(sheng)四應矣(yi)。后(hou)知燒去(qu)者(zhe)(zhe)為觀(guan)(guan)里(li)(li)彌羅寶閣(ge)。此(ci)閣(ge)年代極古，工程(cheng)至(zhi)鉅(ju)且精。偌(ruo)大(da)建筑物付之(zhi)一(yi)炬(ju)，殊可(ke)惜，且守者(zhe)(zhe)止一(yi)二(er)人(ren)，石柱堅墻何致(zhi)起(qi)(qi)火(huo)？即(ji)著火(huo)亦(yi)何致(zhi)全毀？一(yi)般迷(mi)信(xin)家(jia)恐又將造出(chu)許多神(shen)(shen)話也(ye)。”翌日葉(xie)至(zhi)現(xian)場察看后(hou)于(yu)日記(ji)中(zhong)寫道：“晨(chen)至(zhi)頡剛處(chu)，幾伊亦(yi)來(lai)，乃偕赴觀(guan)(guan)里(li)(li)觀(guan)(guan)火(huo)場劫場。可(ke)憐莊嚴宮殿只剩碎瓦(wa)殘(can)灰，神(shen)(shen)鬼威(wei)力(li)果何在(zai)哉！亦(yi)可(ke)稍(shao)示迷(mi)信(xin)家(jia)矣(yi)。然(ran)(ran)觀(guan)(guan)里(li)(li)為吳中(zhong)名勝，遠道來(lai)游(you)者(zhe)(zhe)至(zhi)多，故(gu)觀(guan)(guan)里(li)(li)商業亦(yi)為蘇地冠，從此(ci)或將冷落矣(yi)。入(ru)訪詢起(qi)(qi)火(huo)原由，亦(yi)云(yun)不(bu)可(ke)得知，徒知先有火(huo)在(zai)第二(er)層，而第二(er)層樓則常閉(bi)者(zhe)(zhe)也(ye)。”又圣(sheng)昌熾(chi)《緣督廬(lu)日記(ji)》壬(ren)子年七月十(shi)六(liu)日記(ji)云(yun)：“晚餐(can)正陳(chen)，陡聞樓上驚呼(hu)聲(sheng)，一(yi)舉(ju)首則霄半有光煜然(ran)(ran)，墻壁窗牖皆如倒景反射，再(zai)視則紅火(huo)燭天矣(yi)。亟登樓視之(zhi)，白煙蓬蓬而起(qi)(qi)，火(huo)星飛(fei)爆，如萬(wan)弩之(zhi)齊發，寂無警笛耳輪，但聞膈膊聲(sheng)。自夜(ye)七鐘半，焚至(zhi)八鐘半始熄(xi)。”偌(ruo)大(da)一(yi)座樓閣(ge)化(hua)為灰燼。是失火(huo)？還(huan)是縱火(huo)？至(zhi)今(jin)仍(reng)是謎(mi)。

中山堂即在彌羅(luo)寶(bao)閣原址(zhi)建造，現為影劇公司占用。

主要景點

玄妙觀

玄妙觀三清殿(dian)于(yu)1982年2月列為全國重點文物(wu)保(bao)護單位。

玄妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)極(ji)盛時(shi)有(you)殿(dian)宇(yu)30余座(zuo)(zuo)，是(shi)(shi)(shi)當時(shi)全(quan)國最(zui)大(da)的道觀(guan)。現有(you)山門、主(zhu)殿(dian)（三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)）、副殿(dian)（彌(mi)羅寶閣）及(ji)21座(zuo)(zuo)配殿(dian)。山門雄偉高(gao)聳，上(shang)(shang)懸康熙帝御筆賜額(e)“圓妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)”。南(nan)宋淳熙六年(nian)（1179年(nian)）重(zhong)建的主(zhu)殿(dian)三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)面闊9間(jian)，進(jin)深6間(jian)，高(gao)約(yue)30米，建筑面積(ji)1125平(ping)方米，重(zhong)檐歇山，巍峨壯(zhuang)麗，是(shi)(shi)(shi)江南(nan)一(yi)(yi)帶現存最(zui) 大(da)的宋代木構建筑。殿(dian)中(zhong)須彌(mi)座(zuo)(zuo)上(shang)(shang)供高(gao)17米泥塑(su)貼(tie)金的3尊(zun)(zun)神像，正(zheng)中(zhong)是(shi)(shi)(shi)元始(shi)天(tian)(tian)尊(zun)(zun)，兩(liang)旁是(shi)(shi)(shi)靈寶天(tian)(tian)尊(zun)(zun)和道德天(tian)(tian)尊(zun)(zun)，俗稱三(san)清(qing)。神像高(gao)大(da)莊(zhuang)嚴，是(shi)(shi)(shi)宋代道教塑(su)像中(zhong)的上(shang)(shang)品。三(san)清(qing)中(zhong)道德天(tian)(tian)尊(zun)(zun)又稱太上(shang)(shang) 老(lao)君，傳(chuan)為老(lao)子(zi)李(li)耳(er)。其像座(zuo)(zuo)有(you)老(lao)君像石刻(ke)，為唐吳道子(zi)繪像，唐玄宗(zong)題(ti)贊，顏真卿書(shu)，由(you)宋代刻(ke)石高(gao)手張允迪摹(mo)刻(ke)，可(ke)稱“四絕”碑，是(shi)(shi)(shi)目前國內(nei)僅存的兩(liang)塊老(lao)子(zi)像碑之(zhi)一(yi)(yi)。三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)西山墻(qiang)有(you)60根大(da)青石六面柱，每面刻(ke)有(you)一(yi)(yi)天(tian)(tian)尊(zun)(zun)像，共刻(ke)360天(tian)(tian)尊(zun)(zun)像，合周年(nian)數(shu)。玄妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)前一(yi)(yi)條街(jie)名(ming)觀(guan)前街(jie)，為蘇州的主(zhu)要商業街(jie)之(zhi)一(yi)(yi)。

三清殿

三清殿(dian)為(wei)(wei)玄(xuan)妙觀正(zheng)殿(dian)，南(nan)宋(song)(song)淳熙六(liu)年(nian)(1179)重建。重檐(yan)歇山造(zao)(zao)，面(mian)(mian)闊9間(jian)(jian)，廣45.64米(mi)(mi)(mi)，進深(shen)6間(jian)(jian)，深(shen)25.25米(mi)(mi)(mi)，通(tong)高(gao)(gao)(gao)約27米(mi)(mi)(mi)，面(mian)(mian)闊與進深(shen)之(zhi)(zhi)比為(wei)(wei)9：5。殿(dian)柱(zhu)(zhu)排列(lie)，縱橫(heng)成行(xing)，內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)外(wai)一(yi)致，共有7列(lie)，每列(lie)10柱(zhu)(zhu)，無“減柱(zhu)(zhu)”或“移柱(zhu)(zhu)”，俗稱(cheng)“滿(man)堂(tang)柱(zhu)(zhu)”。四周(zhou)檐(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)八角(jiao)(jiao)石(shi)(shi)(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)，共30根；殿(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)諸(zhu)柱(zhu)(zhu)除(chu)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)槽中央(yang)三間(jian)(jian)4根后(hou)金柱(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)(wei)抹角(jiao)(jiao)石(shi)(shi)(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)外(wai)，均為(wei)(wei)圓木(mu)柱(zhu)(zhu)，共 36根。柱(zhu)(zhu)礎(chu)均為(wei)(wei)連磉有唇(chun)覆盆式(shi)(shi)，檐(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)礎(chu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)再施(shi)(shi)仿木(mu)質八角(jiao)(jiao)形石(shi)(shi)(shi)柱(zhu)(zhu)腳，殿(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)木(mu)柱(zhu)(zhu)則(ze)于(yu)礎(chu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)加石(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓。下(xia)檐(yan)斗(dou)(dou)拱為(wei)(wei)四鋪單昂(ang)(ang)，昂(ang)(ang)的(de)(de)下(xia)緣(yuan)向(xiang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)微(wei)微(wei)反曲。柱(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)昂(ang)(ang)嘴實(shi)(shi)為(wei)(wei)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)檐(yan)華拱的(de)(de)延長，其上(shang)(shang)(shang)承月(yue)(yue)梁(liang)。梁(liang)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)伸出(chu)(chu)作(zuo)(zuo)耍(shua)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)，斫作(zuo)(zuo)宋(song)(song)式(shi)(shi)梢頭(tou)(tou)(tou)。補間(jian)(jian)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)皆用(yong)(yong)真昂(ang)(ang)，后(hou)尾挑(tiao)起，以(yi)承托下(xia)平西(xi)方(fang)槫下(xia)的(de)(de)令(ling)拱，即《營(ying)(ying)造(zao)(zao)法式(shi)(shi)》上(shang)(shang)(shang)的(de)(de)“飛昂(ang)(ang)”制度。上(shang)(shang)(shang)檐(yan)柱(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)與補間(jian)(jian)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)均為(wei)(wei)重昂(ang)(ang)，結(jie)構完全一(yi)致，但僅為(wei)(wei)華拱前(qian)端做(zuo)(zuo)出(chu)(chu)假昂(ang)(ang)，其后(hou)并無昂(ang)(ang)挑(tiao)起的(de)(de)杠桿作(zuo)(zuo)用(yong)(yong)。至于(yu)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)槽斗(dou)(dou)拱，則(ze)于(yu)重抄之(zhi)(zhi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)，前(qian)后(hou)兩面(mian)(mian)用(yong)(yong)“上(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)”成為(wei)(wei)“六(liu)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)重抄上(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)斗(dou)(dou)拱”結(jie)構，為(wei)(wei)國內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)孤例(li)。在(zai)櫨斗(dou)(dou)兩側，結(jie)構完全對稱(cheng)，較《營(ying)(ying)造(zao)(zao)法式(shi)(shi)》所(suo)載上(shang)(shang)(shang)昂(ang)(ang)做(zuo)(zuo)法更為(wei)(wei)簡化。又內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)槽內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)轉角(jiao)(jiao)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)，在(zai)后(hou)金柱(zhu)(zhu)上(shang)(shang)(shang)都用(yong)(yong)插(cha)(cha)拱，即以(yi)丁頭(tou)(tou)(tou)拱插(cha)(cha)于(yu)柱(zhu)(zhu)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)，無櫨斗(dou)(dou)，亦(yi)此殿(dian)斗(dou)(dou)拱重要特征，為(wei)(wei)國內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)現(xian)存最(zui)(zui)古(gu)實(shi)(shi)例(li)。內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)槽斗(dou)(dou)拱之(zhi)(zhi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)，更施(shi)(shi)平棋，殿(dian)的(de)(de)梁(liang)架結(jie)構，外(wai)槽梁(liang)架先施(shi)(shi)順木(mu)伏串(chuan)，次于(yu)柱(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)上(shang)(shang)(shang)架月(yue)(yue)梁(liang)，復用(yong)(yong)襻間(jian)(jian)作(zuo)(zuo)。月(yue)(yue)梁(liang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)又施(shi)(shi)櫨斗(dou)(dou)，置十字交叉令(ling)拱，承上(shang)(shang)(shang)層月(yue)(yue)梁(liang)與槫下(xia)柱(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)(tou)(tou)枋。結(jie)構與《營(ying)(ying)造(zao)(zao)法式(shi)(shi)》亦(yi)能符合。內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)額(e)除(chu)中央(yang)四縫外(wai)，都于(yu)其下(xia)另加上(shang)(shang)(shang)枋，二(er)者之(zhi)(zhi)間(jian)(jian)用(yong)(yong)襻間(jian)(jian)鋪作(zuo)(zuo)。殿(dian)的(de)(de)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)槽中央(yang)5間(jian)(jian)后(hou)金柱(zhu)(zhu)間(jian)(jian)，筑磚壁(bi)達內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)額(e)下(xia)皮，壁(bi)前(qian)有磚砌須彌座(zuo)，面(mian)(mian)闊3間(jian)(jian)，高(gao)(gao)(gao)1.75米(mi)(mi)(mi)，式(shi)(shi)樣略如《營(ying)(ying)造(zao)(zao)法式(shi)(shi)》而繁密過(guo)之(zhi)(zhi)。上(shang)(shang)(shang)奉三清像(xiang)，趺坐于(yu)方(fang)座(zuo)上(shang)(shang)(shang)，像(xiang)高(gao)(gao)(gao)約6米(mi)(mi)(mi)，高(gao)(gao)(gao)于(yu)地(di)面(mian)(mian)約10.5米(mi)(mi)(mi)，神態凝重，衣褶(zhe)生(sheng)動，是古(gu)代(dai)(dai)道教造(zao)(zao)像(xiang)中的(de)(de)上(shang)(shang)(shang)品。殿(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)壁(bi)間(jian)(jian)嵌有碑(bei)石(shi)(shi)(shi)多方(fang)，以(yi)南(nan)宋(song)(song)寶慶(qing)元(yuan)年(nian)(1225)所(suo)刻(ke)(ke)“太上(shang)(shang)(shang)老(lao)君像(xiang)”最(zui)(zui)為(wei)(wei)珍貴，像(xiang)為(wei)(wei)唐代(dai)(dai)吳道子所(suo)繪，形貌(mao)蒼(cang)褶(zhe)流暢，上(shang)(shang)(shang)方(fang)有顏(yan)真卿(qing)所(suo)書唐玄(xuan)宗(zong)李隆基的(de)(de)“贊”四言(yan)十六(liu)句，刻(ke)(ke)工為(wei)(wei)張允迪。三清殿(dian)臺(tai)(tai)基面(mian)(mian)闊49.6米(mi)(mi)(mi)，進深(shen)29.5米(mi)(mi)(mi)，現(xian)高(gao)(gao)(gao)出(chu)(chu)周(zhou)圍地(di)面(mian)(mian)約1 米(mi)(mi)(mi)。前(qian)施(shi)(shi)月(yue)(yue)臺(tai)(tai)，面(mian)(mian)闊27.2米(mi)(mi)(mi)，進深(shen)16.3米(mi)(mi)(mi)，中央(yang)立鐵鼎。正(zheng)面(mian)(mian)與左、右各踏跺，周(zhou)以(yi)青(qing)石(shi)(shi)(shi)勾(gou)欄。臺(tai)(tai)基僅南(nan)面(mian)(mian)東(dong)、西(xi)梢間(jian)(jian)及(ji)盡間(jian)(jian)有石(shi)(shi)(shi)欄，與月(yue)(yue)臺(tai)(tai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)欄貫(guan)通(tong)，華版雕刻(ke)(ke)極細，內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)容有人物、走(zou)獸、飛禽、水(shui)(shui)族、山水(shui)(shui)、云樹、亭閣等，頗為(wei)(wei)古(gu)樸生(sheng)動，為(wei)(wei)宋(song)(song)或宋(song)(song)以(yi)前(qian)作(zuo)(zuo)品。三清殿(dian)是江蘇(su)最(zui)(zui)古(gu)的(de)(de)木(mu)結(jie)構建筑，也是國內(nei)(nei)(nei)(nei)現(xian)存體量最(zui)(zui)大(da)的(de)(de)宋(song)(song)代(dai)(dai)大(da)殿(dian)。

正山門

正山(shan)門位于(yu)三(san)清(qing)殿南約(yue)80米(mi)處，清(qing)乾(qian)隆四十年(1775)重(zhong)建。重(zhong)檐歇山(shan)造，面闊5間，廣20米(mi)，進深12米(mi)，于(yu)當心間脊柱間設(she)斷砌門。

如意門

如意門(西腳(jiao)門)內的(de)雷尊殿(dian)初名雷神(shen)蓼，亦為坐北朝南的(de)重(zhong)檐歇(xie)山式建(jian)筑，明天順二(er)年(nian)(1458)建(jian)，清(qing)(qing)康(kang)熙四年(nian)(1665)重(zhong)修，面闊3間(jian)，廣16米，進深14米，前(qian)加卷棚頂軒廊3間(jian)，與(yu)下(xia)檐形成勾連(lian)搭(da)屋頂，通進深21米，梁架(jia)結構及柱礎制均有(you)(you)明代(dai)特征，殿(dian)南尚存山門3間(jian)。此外，觀內現存殿(dian)閣，東有(you)(you)財(cai)神(shen)殿(dian)、天醫藥王殿(dian)、火神(shen)殿(dian)、三清(qing)(qing)殿(dian)、斗姆(mu)閣等，西有(you)(you)觀音殿(dian)、三官(guan)殿(dian)等，北有(you)(you)蓑衣真人殿(dian)、方丈殿(dian)等，多數為晚清(qing)(qing)重(zhong)建(jian)。

保存在(zai)觀內碑刻(ke)有數十種，上起宋代，下(xia)迄清末。

通神先生何蓑(suo)衣(yi)事(shi)實碑在蓑(suo)衣(yi)真人殿。碑高(gao)1.55米、寬1.08米，胡袤撰，宋孝宗脊題“通神庵”三字，南宋慶元(yuan)三年(1197)刻石。

詔建三清大殿(dian)(dian)上梁文(wen)碑在祖師殿(dian)(dian)遺址碑廊。碑高1.62米(mi)、寬0.93米(mi)，南(nan)宋(song)淳(chun)熙八年(1181)龔頤正撰，嘉(jia)定十一年(1218)立石，張允迪刻，原(yuan)在三清殿(dian)(dian)。

老君像碑在頤(yi)正殿。碑高1.8米、寬(kuan)0.91米，吳道子畫(hua)，唐玄宗李隆基贊，顏(yan)真卿(qing)書(shu)，馮大(da)同跋，張允(yun)迪刻，南(nan)宋寶慶(qing)元年(1225)立(li)石。

朝旨蠲免天(tian)慶觀道正(zheng)司科敷度牒(die)尚書省(sheng)札部符使帖碑(bei) 在三清殿。高1.97米、寬1.08米，頂端(duan)抹角，南宋(song)端(duan)平(ping)元年(nian)(1234)立。

清理道教碑在三清殿(dian)外東側。高(gao)6.5米、寬(kuan)2.7米，方孝孺撰并書，明洪武中年(1371)立(li)，后(hou)方氏被誅，碑文(wen)被劃去，故俗稱無字碑。

重(zhong)修三清殿(dian)記碑在火(huo)神殿(dian)南小弄內。高(gao)1.66米、寬0.9米，王進(jin)撰，衛靖書，張徽篆額(e)，明宣德四年(nian)(1429)呂志清立(li)石，左(zuo)上角殘缺，碑文已漫漶。

重修玄妙觀(guan)五岳樓記(ji)碑現存祖師遺址碑廊(lang)。高1.15米(mi)、寬0.66米(mi)，李杰撰，陳昌言刻，明弘治十六年(1503)立，原(yuan)置東岳殿。

玄妙觀(guan)三(san)清殿(dian)至今(jin)已有(you)(you)八百多年(nian)歷(li)史，九(jiu)開間(jian)的(de)(de)宏殿(dian)巍峨軒昂，原來說是(shi)在江南(nan)絕無(wu)僅有(you)(you)，后(hou)來文(wen)物專家羅哲文(wen)來蘇考察，說是(shi)全(quan)國也沒有(you)(you)這樣巨大的(de)(de)南(nan)宋(song)建(jian)筑(zhu)( 其(qi)氣勢(shi)只有(you)(you)北京故宮的(de)(de)太(tai)和殿(dian)和曲(qu)阜孔廟大成殿(dian)可與之相比、但這些建(jian)筑(zhu)的(de)(de)年(nian)代都(dou)遠遠晚于南(nan)宋(song))，所以三(san)清殿(dian)稱為國寶當之無(wu)愧(kui)！

集市特色

玄(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)為全國(guo)著(zhu)名(ming)道觀(guan)(guan)，又(you)是歷(li)史悠久的傳統集市。馮夢龍(long)《警世通言》無礙居士序中說：“吾(wu)頃從(cong)玄(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)聽說《三(san)國(guo)志(zhi)》來。”說明(ming)(ming)玄(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)在明(ming)(ming)天啟(qi)年間(jian)已有露天書場(chang)。至清代(dai)設攤者日(ri)(ri)多，遂演變成為古城中心一處熱(re)鬧的集市，有小吃、日(ri)(ri)用(yong)雜(za)品、文(wen)具玩具、對聯(lian)字畫、花(hua)鳥魚蟲的攤店以及(ji)醫卜星相、江湖雜(za)耍等等，五花(hua)八門，不一而足。茲(zi)就昔日(ri)(ri)報刊所(suo)載30年代(dai)前后玄(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)集市狀況略舉一二，以見其概貌。

小吃特色

玄妙觀(guan)的(de)小(xiao)吃，名目繁多，如小(xiao)米子(zi)糖(tang)(tang)(tang)、灰湯粽、氽魷魚、熏魚、涼粉(fen)、藕粉(fen)、千張百頁、酒(jiu)釀(niang)圓子(zi)、豆(dou)(dou)腐(fu)花、糖(tang)(tang)(tang)粥、梅花糕(gao)(gao)、海棠(tang)糕(gao)(gao)、焐酥豆(dou)(dou)、五(wu)香茶(cha)葉蛋(dan)、雞鴨血湯，其余(yu)如面、小(xiao)籠饅頭(tou)、鍋貼、燒賣(mai)、餛飩、湯團等等，應(ying)有(you)(you)盡有(you)(you)。著(zhu)名的(de)攤店(dian)(dian)，有(you)(you)專(zhuan)售梨膏糖(tang)(tang)(tang)的(de)文魁齋(zhai)(zhai)、觀(guan)振興面店(dian)(dian)、王源興酒(jiu)釀(niang)豆(dou)(dou)漿店(dian)(dian)、小(xiao)有(you)(you)天(tian)藕粉(fen)店(dian)(dian)、五(wu)芳(fang)齋(zhai)(zhai)、六芳(fang)齋(zhai)(zhai)、七芳(fang)齋(zhai)(zhai)等等，還有(you)(you)百年以上歷史的(de)三(san)萬思(si)、品芳(fang)兩家茶(cha)館(guan)。可以說玄妙觀(guan)是蘇州小(xiao)吃最(zui)為集中的(de)地方。

年畫特色

三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)內是傳統的年畫(hua)(hua)市場(chang)，出售(shou)桃(tao)花塢出版的各種畫(hua)(hua)張，如神(shen)軸、灶神(shen)、門神(shen)、百壽圖(tu)、送子圖(tu)、鳳(feng)穿牡(mu)丹、魚(yu)跳龍門、歲寒三(san)友、梅(mei)開五福、岳飛抗金、關羽夜讀春秋、二(er)十四孝等(deng)等(deng)，民國以后上海的彩印美女圖(tu)、風(feng)景畫(hua)(hua)進入觀(guan)內，受到(dao)大眾歡迎。另有(you)對聯(lian)、立軸，并(bing)可請名家當場(chang)揮(hui)毫(hao)，其(qi)中最著名者(zhe)汪煥(huan)文(度)，自號“鄧尉山農”，在三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)書寫對聯(lian)數十年之(zhi)久。

觀內空地經常演出各種江湖雜耍(shua)，有變戲法、木偶戲、耍(shua)猴戲、西洋鏡、唱小熱昏、賣拳(quan)頭、說露(lu)天書等等。鑼鼓響處，圍滿(man)人群，熙熙攘(rang)(rang)攘(rang)(rang)，熱鬧非(fei)凡。

醫卜星相更

醫卜(bu)星相(xiang)更(geng)是玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)大特(te)色，有(you)(you)(you)(you)祖傳(chuan)秘(mi)方、專治(zhi)氣(qi)喘、癆疾、筋骨酸(suan)疼(teng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)江(jiang)湖郎中(zhong)，有(you)(you)(you)(you)撥牙(ya)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)牙(ya)醫，有(you)(you)(you)(you)主(zhu)治(zhi)跌打損傷(shang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)傷(shang)科等(deng)(deng)等(deng)(deng)。遠近聞(wen)名(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)葛(ge)云彬、謝明(ming)(ming)德都曾在(zai)此(ci)掛牌設攤(tan)。算(suan)命(ming)(ming)(ming)、相(xiang)面、測(ce)字(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)集(ji)中(zhong)在(zai)東腳門(men)至(zhi)牛角浜(bang)一(yi)(yi)(yi)路(lu)，有(you)(you)(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)當(dang)街設一(yi)(yi)(yi)桌一(yi)(yi)(yi)椅，有(you)(you)(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)設館，總稱“巾(jin)(jin)行(xing)”，七十二巾(jin)(jin)可謂樣(yang)樣(yang)齊全。有(you)(you)(you)(you)量(liang)手曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“量(liang)巾(jin)(jin)”，鳥(niao)銜設牌曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“鳥(niao)巾(jin)(jin)”，拉胡(hu)琴曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“夾絲巾(jin)(jin)”，敲搭板小(xiao)鑼曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“響巾(jin)(jin)”，相(xiang)面曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“斬(zhan)盤搶巾(jin)(jin)”，批(pi)八(ba)字(zi)(zi)曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“八(ba)黑”，搖課(ke)曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“圓頭(tou)”，拆字(zi)(zi)曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“小(xiao)黑”，瞎子(zi)摸牌曰(yue)(yue)(yue)“觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)梅(mei)”。相(xiang)面有(you)(you)(you)(you)手相(xiang)、摸骨相(xiang)等(deng)(deng)幾種(zhong)，以一(yi)(yi)(yi)鑒明(ming)(ming)(真名(ming)張子(zi)芳)、朱少卿最為(wei)有(you)(you)(you)(you)名(ming)。相(xiang)面兼算(suan)命(ming)(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)(you)四明(ming)(ming)山人、王(wang)一(yi)(yi)(yi)舟等(deng)(deng)。算(suan)命(ming)(ming)(ming)兼堪輿(風水、地(di)理(li)、流年(nian)、合婚)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)，以楊鳳(feng)巢、蔣(jiang)通天、凌云山、楊守成、鄒慕(mu)鴻等(deng)(deng)為(wei)主(zhu)。拆字(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)(you)談(tan)虎臣(chen)、張天良等(deng)(deng)。起(qi)課(ke)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)(you)(you)(you)文王(wang)課(ke)、六壬(ren)課(ke)，以明(ming)(ming)如鏡(jing)為(wei)有(you)(you)(you)(you)名(ming)。還(huan)有(you)(you)(you)(you)鴻運(yun)來(真名(ming)泊(bo)良)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)烏(wu)(wu)龜(gui)測(ce)字(zi)(zi)，他(ta)(ta)把事先(xian)用膠水寫(xie)好的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)字(zi)(zi)條(tiao)，放(fang)(fang)在(zai)置有(you)(you)(you)(you)烏(wu)(wu)賊骨粉的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)烏(wu)(wu)龜(gui)殼內(nei)(nei)，搖動幾下便顯出字(zi)(zi)跡，以此(ci)吸引好奇者。他(ta)(ta)們或(huo)取號(hao)“賽諸葛(ge)”、“小(xiao)神仙”，或(huo)自(zi)稱“能知過去未來，善斷(duan)吉兇(xiong)禍福”，舉凡男(nan)女婚配、家(jia)庭(ting)糾紛、生老(lao)(lao)病(bing)死、官運(yun)財氣(qi)均是他(ta)(ta)們測(ce)算(suan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)范(fan)圍。俗(su)話說(shuo)“江(jiang)湖一(yi)(yi)(yi)點訣，莫(mo)對妻(qi)子(zi)說(shuo)，若對妻(qi)子(zi)說(shuo)，飯都沒(mei)得吃！”然而(er)，明(ming)(ming)明(ming)(ming)是迷(mi)信騙局，卻有(you)(you)(you)(you)無(wu)數人找到(dao)他(ta)(ta)們尋求慰藉，直到(dao)解(jie)放(fang)(fang)后他(ta)(ta)們才由政府安排轉業(ye)。以上(shang)所(suo)述說(shuo)明(ming)(ming)，由于玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)歷史和地(di)理(li)條(tiao)件，使它成為(wei)與北(bei)(bei)京天橋(qiao)、南(nan)(nan)京夫子(zi)廟、上(shang)海老(lao)(lao)城(cheng)隍廟齊名(ming)而(er)又具有(you)(you)(you)(you)蘇(su)(su)州(zhou)地(di)方特(te)色的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)熱鬧場(chang)所(suo)。蘇(su)(su)州(zhou)人常說(shuo)“白(bai)相(xiang)玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)”，外地(di)人到(dao)蘇(su)(su)州(zhou)也必至(zhi)玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)游，這已經(jing)成為(wei)人們的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)共識(shi)。隨著(zhu)時代的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)發展，玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)也在(zai)不斷(duan)發生變化(hua)，但它既是古跡名(ming)勝，又為(wei)傳(chuan)統集(ji)市的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)這一(yi)(yi)(yi)基本性質和特(te)點，始終未變，1956年(nian)，對玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)攤(tan)販進行(xing)整(zheng)理(li)，保(bao)持了小(xiao)吃為(wei)主(zhu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)傳(chuan)統特(te)色。“文化(hua)大革命(ming)(ming)(ming)”期間，取消玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)集(ji)市。1979年(nian)12月，江(jiang)蘇(su)(su)省(sheng)12市、縣糖(tang)果評展會在(zai)玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)舉辦，隨后小(xiao)吃攤(tan)、服(fu)裝攤(tan)、雜貨攤(tan)及(ji)縫(feng)紉攤(tan)擁塞觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)內(nei)(nei)，成為(wei)蘇(su)(su)州(zhou)恢(hui)復的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)集(ji)市。經(jing)多(duo)年(nian)整(zheng)理(li)和規劃，建起(qi)統一(yi)(yi)(yi)規格的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)售(shou)貨亭(ting)，西腳門(men)甬道南(nan)(nan)段(duan)設20多(duo)個傳(chuan)統小(xiao)吃亭(ting)，北(bei)(bei)段(duan)有(you)(you)(you)(you)10多(duo)個縫(feng)紉攤(tan)；東腳門(men)南(nan)(nan)段(duan)為(wei)服(fu)裝售(shou)貨亭(ting)，北(bei)(bei)段(duan)為(wei)修(xiu)補皮匠攤(tan)點；三清殿后興起(qi)漁(yu)網漁(yu)具市場(chang)。1985年(nian)，玄(xuan)(xuan)(xuan)妙觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)內(nei)(nei)有(you)(you)(you)(you)157個攤(tan)位。

實用信息

門票：

10元（寺觀覽勝）；15元（姑蘇(su)道(dao)教(jiao)仙樂）；10元（道(dao)教(jiao)飛鈸表(biao)演）。

公交：

乘(cheng)坐1、102、146、178、202、502到觀前街（東(dong)、西或樂橋）后(hou)，步(bu)行至(zhi)街中段的玄妙觀內。

交通信息

可乘游(you)1東線(xian)到(dao)玄妙觀(guan)站下車(che)，或(huo)乘2線(xian) 、1路(lu)、101路(lu)、38路(lu)等到(dao)觀(guan)前街站下車(che)。