南(nan)(nan)屏(ping)山鐘靈毓秀,凈(jing)慈(ci)(ci)寺(si)香(xiang)煙氤氳,為歷代(dai)文人向往之處。不(bu)少士大夫為避世出塵(chen),常(chang)來該寺(si)談禪(chan)吟詠,成為古(gu)代(dai)杭城文風。還有不(bu)少人來此(ci)筑室隱居,讀書(shu)撰文。如元代(dai)的莫維賢在寺(si)旁建“南(nan)(nan)屏(ping)別墅”,明(ming)代(dai)的孫(sun)一(yi)元筑室高士塢,柴紹(shao)炳(bing)辟(pi)“南(nan)(nan)屏(ping)書(shu)屋”;黃(huang)汝(ru)亨在雷峰(feng)塔旁建“寓林(lin)”,常(chang)常(chang)高朋(peng)滿座(zuo);著名文學(xue)家袁(yuan)宏道曾于明(ming)萬歷二十八年(nian)(1600年(nian))長期寓居凈(jing)慈(ci)(ci)寺(si)。清時,南(nan)(nan)屏(ping)常(chang)有詩社雅(ya)集(ji),也有詩僧(seng)參(can)加,此(ci)為南(nan)(nan)屏(ping)古(gu)文化之一(yi)大特(te)色。
在(zai)凈慈(ci)寺(si)(si)門右(you)邊(bian)有(you)一座“南屏(ping)(ping)晚鐘(zhong)(zhong)”碑(bei)亭,杭州著名(ming)的(de)西(xi)湖(hu)(hu)十(shi)景之一—南屏(ping)(ping)晚鐘(zhong)(zhong)就是這(zhe)里(li)叩響的(de)。凈慈(ci)寺(si)(si)的(de)鐘(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)在(zai)歷史上久(jiu)負盛名(ming)。唐代詩(shi)人張(zhang)岱“夜氣(qi)滃南屏(ping)(ping),輕風(feng)薄如紙;鐘(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)出上方,夜渡空(kong)江水”的(de)詩(shi)句(ju)就已把凈慈(ci)寺(si)(si)鐘(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)的(de)美妙寫得出神入境(jing)了(le)。明(ming)太祖洪武(wu)年間(1368一1398年),鑄(zhu)了(le)一口(kou)重約兩(liang)萬斤的(de)巨(ju)鐘(zhong)(zhong),每日傍晚,夕陽西(xi)下,暝色蒼茫,鐘(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)在(zai)群山碧空(kong)中(zhong)(zhong)回蕩,響徹(che)云(yun)霄。由(you)于南屏(ping)(ping)山空(kong)穴怪石較多,鐘(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)經石穴回蕩互(hu)激,鐘(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)傳(chuan)播到(dao)十(shi)多里(li)外。相傳(chuan)康熙皇帝以目(mu)品西(xi)湖(hu)(hu)十(shi)景,均廣(guang)建(jian)庭(ting)閣(ge),也(ye)在(zai)凈慈(ci)寺(si)(si)寺(si)(si)門外建(jian)一碑(bei)亭,上刻“南屏(ping)(ping)晚鐘(zhong)(zhong)”四字。而西(xi)湖(hu)(hu)十(shi)景中(zhong)(zhong),南屏(ping)(ping)晚鐘(zhong)(zhong)較享盛名(ming)。可惜在(zai)清朝末年,銅鐘(zhong)(zhong)在(zai)戰(zhan)亂中(zhong)(zhong)消失,鐘(zhong)(zhong)聲(sheng)沉寂。
直(zhi)到1984年(nian)(nian)10月,凈慈(ci)寺在(zai)日(ri)本佛(fo)教界(jie)的(de)(de)(de)相助下,重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)鑄(zhu)銅鐘(zhong)。1986年(nian)(nian)11月21日(ri),中日(ri)佛(fo)教界(jie)人士400多人歡(huan)聚凈慈(ci)寺,舉(ju)行了(le)隆重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)(de)大梵鐘(zhong)落成法會(hui),108記雄(xiong)渾有力的(de)(de)(de)鐘(zhong)聲回蕩在(zai)西(xi)湖上空,絕(jue)響百(bai)年(nian)(nian)的(de)(de)(de)南屏晚鐘(zhong)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)新鳴起(qi),為祖國美(mei)麗的(de)(de)(de)山湖壯色增輝。這口銅鐘(zhong)懸(xuan)掛在(zai)凈慈(ci)寺重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)建的(de)(de)(de)二層三檐的(de)(de)(de)鐘(zhong)樓內,高3.6米,直(zhi)徑2.3米,重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)一(yi)萬(wan)公(gong)斤。造型古(gu)樸(pu),外面鑄(zhu)有《大乘妙(miao)法蓮華(hua)經》,6.8萬(wan)余(yu)字(zi),鑄(zhu)造精致(zhi),每敲一(yi)下,余(yu)音達(da)2分鐘(zhong)之久,余(yu)音裊(niao)裊(niao),十(shi)分渾重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)動聽。
寺(si)(si)前(qian)有(you)(you)雷(lei)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)古塔(ta)(ta)(ta),建于(yu)南(nan)屏支脈夕(xi)(xi)照(zhao)山(shan),古時有(you)(you)雷(lei)姓居此,故稱(cheng)雷(lei)峰(feng)(feng)(feng),吳越王(wang)妃黃(huang)氏(shi)建塔(ta)(ta)(ta)于(yu)此,每當夕(xi)(xi)陽西墜,塔(ta)(ta)(ta)影橫空,自成(cheng)(cheng)一景。故宋代(dai)詩(shi)人林(lin)逋有(you)(you)“夕(xi)(xi)照(zhao)前(qian)村見”之(zhi)句,康熙玄燁、乾隆弘歷均題名“雷(lei)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)西照(zhao)”,后(hou)人仍(reng)復(fu)原名為(wei)(wei)“雷(lei)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)夕(xi)(xi)照(zhao)”。該塔(ta)(ta)(ta)被毀前(qian)原為(wei)(wei)重檐飛棟,窗戶(hu)洞達。由(you)此,“南(nan)屏晚鐘(zhong)”,“雷(lei)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)夕(xi)(xi)照(zhao)”,成(cheng)(cheng)為(wei)(wei)凈慈(ci)寺(si)(si)兩(liang)大勝景,又為(wei)(wei)名剎(cha)增輝。“南(nan)山(shan)凈慈(ci),北山(shan)靈(ling)隱”,為(wei)(wei)東(dong)南(nan)兩(liang)大名剎(cha),古人稱(cheng):“兩(liang)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)勝概(gai)山(shan)僧得,好為(wei)(wei)南(nan)屏一寫圖”。歷代(dai)題詠作(zuo)畫的(de)難以(yi)計(ji)數(shu)。凈慈(ci)寺(si)(si)由(you)五代(dai)吳越王(wang)創(chuang)建。由(you)于(yu)四代(dai)錢王(wang)代(dai)代(dai)崇佛,故凈慈(ci)寺(si)(si)前(qian)后(hou)左右佛剎(cha)林(lin)立,成(cheng)(cheng)為(wei)(wei)杭城較大的(de)寺(si)(si)院(yuan)(yuan)群。在雷(lei)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)下有(you)(you)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)院(yuan)(yuan)小(xiao)昭(zhao)慶寺(si)(si),塔(ta)(ta)(ta)西有(you)(you)惠昭(zhao)寺(si)(si),峰(feng)(feng)(feng)北有(you)(you)瑞相(xiang)院(yuan)(yuan)(即(ji)寶(bao)相(xiang)寺(si)(si)),寺(si)(si)西有(you)(you)善慶寺(si)(si)(即(ji)興教寺(si)(si)),并有(you)(you)彌(mi)陀寺(si)(si)、顯應(ying)寺(si)(si)、天(tian)王(wang)寺(si)(si)、安吳寺(si)(si)、法性寺(si)(si)、廣(guang)教寺(si)(si)、空律寺(si)(si)等環列(lie)。晨鐘(zhong)暮鼓,梵(fan)唄相(xiang)聞;故時人稱(cheng)南(nan)屏山(shan)為(wei)(wei)“佛國(guo)山(shan)”。
凈(jing)慈寺依(yi)山(shan)而建(jian),背靠翠巒,面對碧(bi)波,梵(fan)宇層疊,宏偉莊嚴。古(gu)時寺后山(shan)坡有蓮(lian)花洞(dong)、少林巖,右為(wei)石佛洞(dong),東南有歡喜巖。
蓮(lian)花(hua)洞無頂,片(pian)片(pian)石芽從坡地升起,蔚成巨型(xing)石蓮(lian)。志書所載開山祖永(yong)明(ming)延壽(shou)每晚上山坐禪(chan)稱念(nian)"阿(a)彌陀凈慈寺(si)佛",即在(zai)蓮(lian)花(hua)洞。相傳因永(yong)明(ming)大師在(zai)此吟誦《蓮(lian)花(hua)經》,上天(tian)仙女(nv)來此散花(hua),故名蓮(lian)花(hua)洞,又名雨花(hua)臺。明(ming)代司禮太(tai)監孫隆(long)曾在(zai)崖上鐫刻(ke)"花(hua)雨繽紛(fen)"題字,惜已漫漶難見(jian)。
洞前舊有"居(ju)然亭",取意于(yu)明代紹(shao)興太守洪玉方詩句:"一日茅棟(dong)成,居(ju)然我泉白"。此(ci)處歷來(lai)是文人(ren)墨客(ke)觀(guan)景吟誦的勝地(di),清時古亭廢圮成為竹園。蓮花洞上(shang)有奇巖(yan)隆起,摩崖(ya)上(shang)鐫刻有"少(shao)林(lin)"兩字(zi),故稱(cheng)少(shao)林(lin)巖(yan)。
蓮(lian)花(hua)洞右(you)有(you)石(shi)(shi)(shi)佛洞,平地(di)兩(liang)石(shi)(shi)(shi)屹立(li)形如(ru)佛龕,內(nei)鐫(juan)(juan)有(you)石(shi)(shi)(shi)佛三尊(zun)。左(zuo)壁有(you)明代浙(zhe)江總督胡宗憲題刻(ke)"寰中天室"四(si)字,右(you)壁亦(yi)有(you)摩(mo)崖題刻(ke),為(wei)元代至(zhi)正四(si)年(1344年)所鐫(juan)(juan),字跡(ji)已模糊(hu)難辨。石(shi)(shi)(shi)佛洞東南(nan)有(you)兩(liang)石(shi)(shi)(shi)相對稱"歡喜巖(yan)"。古(gu)時曾鐫(juan)(juan)有(you)三佛,現已不存。此(ci)處石(shi)(shi)(shi)景袁宏(hong)道稱之(zhi)為(wei)"凈慈之(zhi)絕(jue)勝(sheng)處"。
道(dao)(dao)(dao)容(rong)在凈(jing)(jing)(jing)慈寺(si)(si)(si)(si)先塑十(shi)六(liu)應真像(xiang),再塑五百羅漢,據(ju)說(shuo)塑像(xiang)都(dou)出(chu)一(yi)僧之手,而儀貌(mao)各異,神(shen)氣如(ru)生,像(xiang)塑成而僧化去;所(suo)建(jian)(jian)田(tian)字殿,將(jiang)五百羅漢分四層背(bei)座(zuo),尊尊異形(xing),位(wei)置曲折,屈指多(duo)迷,為(wei)(wei)一(yi)大奇觀。道(dao)(dao)(dao)容(rong)建(jian)(jian)田(tian)字殿為(wei)(wei)江南(nan)佛(fo)(fo)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)之首創,田(tian)字形(xing)平面(mian)(mian)既能供(gong)奉(feng)眾羅漢像(xiang),且都(dou)面(mian)(mian)向信(xin)眾,采光較(jiao)好(hao),便(bian)于(yu)參拜禮佛(fo)(fo),這是佛(fo)(fo)教(jiao)中的特(te)殊建(jian)(jian)筑。節度使(shi)曹(cao)勛為(wei)(wei)此(ci)撰記稱(cheng)該寺(si)(si)(si)(si)重建(jian)(jian)后,“金碧輝煌,華梵絢麗,行都(dou)道(dao)(dao)(dao)場之盛,特(te)冠諸山”。紹興(xing)九年(nian)(1139年(nian)),宋高宗(zong)大赦天下(xia),為(wei)(wei)表示(shi)奉(feng)祀宋徽宗(zong),特(te)將(jiang)凈(jing)(jing)(jing)慈禪(chan)(chan)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)改名為(wei)(wei)“報恩光孝禪(chan)(chan)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)”,并將(jiang)惠照寺(si)(si)(si)(si)并入。紹興(xing)十(shi)九年(nian)(1149年(nian))十(shi)月(yue),又(you)改稱(cheng)為(wei)(wei)“凈(jing)(jing)(jing)慈報恩光孝禪(chan)(chan)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)”(簡稱(cheng)凈(jing)(jing)(jing)慈寺(si)(si)(si)(si)),詔命道(dao)(dao)(dao)容(rong)住持該寺(si)(si)(si)(si),并賜予(yu)經藏。繼道(dao)(dao)(dao)容(rong)住持凈(jing)(jing)(jing)慈寺(si)(si)(si)(si)的肯堂(tang)彥充曾師事廬山東林寺(si)(si)(si)(si)僧顏(yan),學凈(jing)(jing)(jing)土法門。杭州名僧癡絕道(dao)(dao)(dao)沖、無準師范等均師從(cong)肯堂(tang)學法,得以(yi)傳承。
南宋時凈慈(ci)寺幾(ji)經毀建(jian)。淳熙十四年(1187年),朝(chao)廷起用退(tui)(tui)谷義云(yun)禪師,命其(qi)在凈慈(ci)寺說法并主持寺務,杭城(cheng)士(shi)民都很崇(chong)敬(jing),愛國詩人陸(lu)游(you)贊他為(wei)“才能絕人”。一日,退(tui)(tui)谷義云(yun)率眾(zhong)僧(seng)入城(cheng),當晚(wan)火(huo)起,凈慈(ci)寺盡毀,據陸(lu)游(you)《凈慈(ci)退(tui)(tui)谷義云(yun)禪師塔銘》所記:是夕(xi)寺焚(fen)無遺宇,比師歸,獨山(shan)門巋然瓦礫中,師不動容曰(yue),成壞(huai)相尋,亦豈有(you)常今(jin)日之(zhi)壞(huai),安知不為(wei)四眾(zhong)作福之(zhi)地哉。
乘坐12、K12路,在(zai)絲(si)綢博物(wu)館站(zhan)下(xia)車(che);
乘坐K102路(lu),在萬松嶺站下車;
乘坐514、K514路區間(jian)(或K504路),在凈(jing)寺(si)站下車(che);
乘坐822、K822路,在凈寺站(zhan)下車(che)。
凈慈寺(si)近(jin)城臨湖(hu),踞南(nan)(nan)山(shan)之勝(sheng)。宋時為其鼎盛(sheng)時期(qi),人(ren)文薈萃,儒釋(shi)交融,與靈隱寺(si)相(xiang)埒。南(nan)(nan)宋時被評為江南(nan)(nan)禪(chan)院“五山(shan)”之一。
北宋(song)時,凈慈寺名(ming)僧接踵,大德(de)輩出,有的成為(wei)佛教禪(chan)宗(zong)(zong)一代宗(zong)(zong)師(shi)。宋(song)初有“兩壽(shou)(shou)”,即延壽(shou)(shou)和(he)洪壽(shou)(shou),均(jun)師(shi)法于(yu)德(de)韶,興教于(yu)南(nan)屏(ping),其佛學教觀盛(sheng)行于(yu)當時。繼“兩壽(shou)(shou)”之后,又有圓照(zhao)宗(zong)(zong)本和(he)大通善(shan)本相(xiang)繼住持(chi)凈慈寺,世稱之為(wei)“大小本”。他(ta)們(men)都曾遍訪名(ming)山,弘(hong)揚禪(chan)宗(zong)(zong)佛法,而且都先(xian)后成為(wei)北宋(song)京(jing)都開封的高僧。宋(song)神宗(zong)(zong)曾贊圓照(zhao)宗(zong)(zong)本為(wei)“真福(fu)慧僧”、“僧中(zhong)寶”,要他(ta)“方(fang)興禪(chan)宗(zong)(zong),宜善(shan)開導(dao)”。大通善(shan)本為(wei)漢董仲舒后裔,也被尊為(wei)“大通師(shi)”。正是(shi)由于(yu)這些高僧住持(chi),才使“名(ming)藍有光”;受到宋(song)王朝的重(zhong)視。北宋(song)統(tong)一中(zhong)國后,宋(song)太宗(zong)(zong)于(yu)太平興國二年(977年)賜慧日永(yong)明院為(wei)“壽(shou)(shou)寧禪(chan)院”,并(bing)重(zhong)加修葺(qi)。